The pH talk

Hello everyone! 🙂

I have received many questions about pH and therefore I have decided to make a brief post about it. In fact, to learn how to formulate and be able to make safe cosmetics at home, it is really essential that you understand what pH is and that you have a way to measure it.

strips
Well then! Let’s dive in:
“pH” stands for “power of hydrogen”, the capital “H” is because the symbol of the element hydrogen in the periodic table is “H” (always capital! Now it should be easier to remember how it is properly written 🙂 ).

“pH is a logarithmic measure of hydrogen ion concentration in an acqueous solution” (don’t you dare stop reading!!! 😀 )

pH = -log[H+]

Try to think of it this way: by measuring the concentration of something (the hydrogen ion: H+) in an acqueous solution (water, for instance) we get to know how acidic or alkaline the solution is. 🙂

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No-Drandruff Shampoo DIY

Hello there!
I am back, finally, with a brand new recipe of a No-Dandruff Shampoo! 🙂
I wanted to try a new – to me, that is – ingredient: the SCLEROTIUM GUM! 🙂
I lowered the SLES to 23% because I needed a milder shampoo, but if you suffer of dandruff I think you should rise the SLES to 30% as we normally use it 🙂

No-dandruff Shampoo 8

That said, here a little explanation about the ingredients of this shampoo.
The ingredients which make this shampoo a “no-dandruff” one are two: Piroctone Olamine and Salicylic Acid.

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Caffeine & Escin Eye Cream DIY

Hello there! 🙂

This new recipe for an Eye-Cream will work great against both blue circles and puffiness; so if you suffer of these, keep reading! 😉
When you apply it you really feel that the circulation of the skin is improving (it gives a rather lifting feeling)!
I am really satisfied!

Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream

I wrote “blue circles” and not the more generic “dark circles” because there are two different kinds of dark circles:
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Silky Body Cream

[BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT MAKING THIS RECIPE, PLEASE READ THE UPDATE ON THIS POST HERE]

Hello there!

I am back with a new extra fast recipe for a silky silky body cream!!! 😀

Silkybodycream

The key ingredient of this recipe is Sodium Polyacrilate! (Wikipedia says: “also known as waterlock, is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid with the chemical formula [-CH2-CH(COONa)-]n and broad application in consumer products. It has the ability to absorb as much as 200 to 300 times its mass in water.”)
IT IS ALMOST LIKE MAGIC!!! 😀

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Zombie Vaccine – Lifting Eye Gel ;)

Who doesn’t look like a zombie in the morning? (ok maybe you don’t… but I do! 😀 )
So here is a simple recipe for deleting that zombie face!!! 😀

[unfortunately the name “zombie vaccine” is not my invention: I had seen it on a funny coffee cup but couldn’t resist using it for this eye gel! :D]

ZOMBIE VACCINE 2

Today I have decided to share the recipe for this lifting eye serum-gel with you!
Yes, I have called it “serum” because it is made of 100% active ingredients 😉 let me show you how…

ZOMBIE VACCINE 3

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How to formulate a Face Wash – with Recipe

Now that we have studied the theory of Surfactants (here and here) and we have the values of some of them it is time to finally formulate! 😀

The recipe of today is for a very delicate Face Wash which helped me when I used to suffer of a mild but annoying and constant (meaning that my skin wasn’t covered in pimples completely but I did have a few all the time and this lasted over two years) form of acne. I should make a post about this! I used to be quite aggressive with my skin: I was scrubbing, using alcoholic toners, applying aggressive creams… but nothing was helping (on the contrary…).
Then one day I decided to give a break to my skin, I stopped scrubbing crazily, I stopped attacking my skin and I started concentrating on eating more healthy food and… TADAAA it did the trick 😀 I simply found out that all my skin needed was to be treated gently.

DIY Face Wash - Recipe

This is how the formulation was done:

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Buying online COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

Buying Cosmetic Ingredients Online

Maybe you’ve been reading my posts thinking “yeah right… and where on earth am I gonna find these ingredients?!”
Well I guess it is time for me to show you a few online shops of raw material of cosmetic grade!
This is obviously very important because if you use a fragrance oil which is not of aimed in cosmetic use… well, don’t be surprised if you get a strong allergic reaction or even something worse… same goes if you use urea which you find in gardening shops: that won’t do! 😀

This said, of course in the online shops which sell raw materials for cosmetic use… all the ingredients are of cosmetic grade… but here a few tips in case the online shop you found is not in my list:
– maybe before you purchase, read around the internet if there are experiences of other people
– for each ingredient they sell, they are supposed to own a MSDS which is the Material Safety Data Sheet. The MSDS should be available for each ingredient on their website or they should send it to you after purchase: if it is not available on their website, before you place an order contact them and be sure they are going to send you one. This is important.
– Before purchasing try asking some information about one of the ingredients they sell: for example at what percentage it should be used, if it shouldn’t be used with certain ingredients and so on. Usually they have this information on the ingredient page but sometimes they don’t. A serious supplier will be able to give you some information, however, don’t expect too much: don’t expect suppliers to be formulators.
– If it is the first time you want to buy raw material… DON’T BUY EVERYTHING you find! Make a small list of ingredients that will be really useful (an emulsifier, a thickening agent, a gelling agent). Start planning to make simple creams, pick few active ingredients (maximum 3!), really: keep it simple! 😀
– do NOT go for the “nice name” ingredient: for example, if an ingredient name is “NO MORE WRINKLES concentrated active ingredient” 99% of the time it is a big NO NO NO 😀 If you click on it and look for the INCI name, probably it comes out that this “concentrate active ingredient” is actually made of “water, lecithin (emulsifier), some kind of oil, the great ingredient” and you can be sure that your great ingredient will be at minimum %.

Ok… after having warned you… 😀
Let me put some links! 😀
NOTE: I am not publicizing any website, I am just posting some websites I know of… that might help you in starting your serious COSMETIC DIY! 😀
I have bought only from some of these websites and obviously I am not responsible if something on your order goes wrong.

Here we go:

Asia:
http://www.bulkactives.com – good website! It has some ingredients which are very difficult to find somewhere else. Prices are a little bit higher than in other places.
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/

North America: 
http://www.makingcosmetics.com – many ingredients and also sells in bulk!
http://www.ingredientstodiefor.com
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/

Europe:
http://www.gracefruit.com – UK – Has many many ingredients for soap-making and also some ingredients. Long list also of fragrance oils. Prices are quite high compared to other websites but some fragrances are difficult to find somewhere else.
http://www.activeformulas.com – UK – website mostly about active ingredients. It has a vast choice.
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/home/products/active -ingredients.aspxUK 
http://www.thesoapkitchen.co.uk/ 
http://www.phoenixproducts.co.uk/
http://www.sensoryperfection.co.uk/
– if you click HERE you will find my review of some of their fragrance oils 

http://www.zrobsobiekrem.pl/pl/i/Information-for-foreigners/129 – PL – This website is from Poland and you can use Google Translate to translate everything written on the page. It sells cheap plant extracts and also some emulsifiers and active ingredients!

http://www.glamourcosmetics.it/ – IT – Probably my favourite Italian website that sells ingredients. Very serious, ship extremely fast, have good variety of ingredients – if you click HERE you will find my review of some of their fragrance oils.
http://www.dermolife.it/shop/index.php – IT – Italian website with good prices about tensioactives. Many active ingredients (vitamins, minerals, aminoacids) also.
http://www.farmaciavernile.it/ – IT – good ingredients (also some special ones which I couldn’t find on other websites).

http://www.dragonspice.de – DE – website from Germany.
http://www.manske-shop.com – DE – website from Germany. It has mostly ingredients about making soaps, therefore a lot of butters and oils, many fragrance oils, essential oils and only few cosmetic ingredients (but basic emulsifiers and active ingredients are there) – if you click HERE you will find a review on some of their fragrance oils.
http://www.alexmo-cosmetics.de/
http://www.aliacura.de/

http://www.aroma-zone.com – FR – French website. Many kinds of oils and butters (very exotic), emulsifiers, essential oils and some active ingredients (but read the INCI of each, before purchasing).

http://www.jabonariumshop.com – SP – website from Spain mainly about soap-making. Good prices.

http://kosmetikmacherei.at – AU

http://www.candlemaking.gr/ – GR

Australia:
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/
https://www.escentialsofaustralia.com/
http://www.n-essentials.com.au/
http://www.aussiesoapsupplies.com.au/
http://www.heirloombodycare.com.au/

Please let me know if you know any good shop from your own country.
Notice also that if you make an order from a website which is not in your country, you might have to pay custom duties… so get informed about it before you make your order! 🙂