Spring Hydrating and Multivit – Face Cream

Hello there! 🙂
I have here for you a new recipe for a great spring cream! I really fell in love with it!

Spring Face Cream - Itsallinmyhands

It is a spring cream, very very hydrating and with a fresh feel 🙂

I have used for the first time a “new” xanthan gum, let’s say an improved version which wouldn’t make a too slimy gel, as it usually does. I have used it so few times that I don’t feel I can have a full opinion of it but all I can say at the moment is: yes, it doesn’t make a slimy gel but, at the same time, it doesn’t gel as much as the other (normal?) xanthan gum would.
So I feel I have to use it few more times to find out at which concentration I am satisfied with its gelling abilities.

I have also used a new emulsifying system: this time I used a mix of Methyl Glucose Distearate and Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate. I liked this combination! It gives a less “heavy” cream (in the sense of “waxy”) and a better comfort when applied.

About the active ingredients… I think I have added all I could add in a cream that was supposed to be very (VERY 😀 ) hydrating and energizing: sodium lactate, sodium hyaluronate, D-panthenol and multivitaminic nanosomes.

I guess this is enough chit chat 😀 … now straight to THE RECIPE:

Phase A: 
Water to 100here what this means.
“Improved” Xanthan gum 0.5 – (now I would try adding a 0.7, I am not too satisfied with this quantity)
Glycerin – 3 

Phase B: 
Murumuru Butter 2 
Babassu Butter 1 
Cetiol Sensoft 2.5 – this is the commercial name of a very light synthetic ester. If you want “all natural” you can try to substitute it with jojoba oil… but it won’t be exactly the same 🙂
Methyl Glucose Dystearate – 2 
Methyl Glcose Sesquistearate – 1 
Cetyl Alcohol – 1.3

Phase C: 
Sodium Lactate (solution at 60%) 5 – usually you find sodium lactate in 60% solution.
Hyaluronic Acid Gel (1%) 5 
D-Panthenol 1 
Multivit Nanosomes 2 – this is a commercial “active ingredient” you can purchase as it is. It contains vitamin C, A and E incapsulated in nanosomes.
Preservative – goes at the specific concentration of the preservative you own.

Phase D: this is a cold oil phase, I have added it to be able to disperse the Q10 powder
Argan oil – 2 
Safflower oil – 2 
Q10 – 0.1 – I was using the pure powder. If you have other forms of Q10, you might have to add a much higher amount than 0.1 so check the data sheet of your product.

Now the HOW TO part:
1) As always we measure the glycerin and the xanthan gum. Mix them together and add water little by little. Let the gel form.
To improve the consistency of the gel, you could use an immersion mixer to “open” the xanthan gum. It works very well, however pay attention at not adding any air to the gel or it will remain in the final product in the form of micro-bubbles.
Heat it up to 70°C
Water and Carbomer after 5 min

2) Measure the phase B and heat it up to 70°C in a double boiler.
Lactobionic Cream 1

3) When both are at 70°C, add the Phase B to the Phase A little by little while mixing with an immersion mixer.
Pay attention to not add any air bubbles.
You will get a liquid hot white cream. Don’t panic, it has to be liquid and it will thicken while it cools down.
Do not stop mixing with a spatula or oil and water will probably separate… so mix until cooled down 🙂
Lactobionic Cream 3

4) Once it is cooled down, measure the Phase C and the Phase D.
Add them to the cream base and mix with an immersion mixer again 🙂
The cream, when cooled down should look like this:
Keep Stirring

5) Since in the Phase D there is Q10 and Q10 has a “egg yolk” color, the color of the cream will be light yellow.

wpid-img_20150505_152749.jpg

This cream feels very light on the skin and I feel nourished!
Hope you enjoyed this recipe!

For more recipes click HERE 
To learn how to formulate cosmetics click HERE
For a list of online cosmetic ingredients suppliers click HERE 

Have a great day!! 😀

2 thoughts on “Spring Hydrating and Multivit – Face Cream

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