IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

On Surfactants and Formulation (face wash, shampoo and shower gels)

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Lab Notes: The ASM Reality

After spending so much time with surfactants, it’s clear that formulating a detergent isn’t about the volume of the bottle, but about the ASM (Active Surfactant Matter). It’s a core lesson: since raw surfactants are usually sold as solutions (mostly water), the only way to know the real “cleaning power” is to calculate the active part of the molecule.

What I’ve Learnt About ASM Targets

The ASM Protocol — Quantitative Detergent Design

In surfactant chemistry, we do not formulate based on the “volume of the bottle” but on the Active Surfactant Matter (ASM). Since raw surfactants are sold as aqueous solutions (e.g., 30% active matter and 70% water), we must calculate the true concentration of the “cleaning” part of the molecule to ensure safety and efficacy.

1. The ASM Target Reference

Before calculating, I define the target ASM based on the physiological needs of the area being cleansed. High ASM provides more “bubbles” and stripping power, while low ASM preserves the lipid barrier.

Product Type	Target ASM Range	Formulation Goal
Face / Intimate Wash	< 10%	Ultra-delicate; avoids stripping the acid mantle.
Shampoo	10% – 15%	High wetting ability; removes sebum/styling products.
Shower Gel	15% – 20%	Standard body cleansing; good foam volume.
Bubble Bath	20% – 25%+	Maximum foam stability; not intended for direct skin contact.

2. The Mathematical Approach: Solving for ASM

I utilize two primary methods in the lab to reach my target (e.g., a 18% ASM Shower Gel).

Method A: Quota Division (Precise)

I decide exactly what “share” each surfactant contributes to the total 18% and solve for the grams needed.

Sarcosinate (29% ASM): Quota 10% then I calculate: 10 $/ 0.29 = 34.48g$
Betaine (36% ASM): Quota 5% so: 5 / $0.36 = 13.88g$
Lauryl Glucoside (52% ASM): Quota 3% so: 3 / $0.52 = 5.76g$
Total ASM = 18%

Method B: Gram Estimation (Iterative)

I estimate the grams first and check the result against the target.

$40g { Sarcosinate}* 0.29 = 11.6g$
$15g { Betaine} * 0.36 = 5.4g$
$5g { Lauryl Glucoside} * 0.52 = 2.6$
Total ASM = 19.6% (Adjust grams downward to reach 18%).

3. Raw Material Profiles & Behavioral Notes

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Anionic – 29%): Eco-friendly and creamy. Viscosity is highly dependent on a pH of 5.0. It is sensitive to oils and fragrances, often requiring Xanthan Gum for stabilization.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Amphoteric – 30-38%): The “Buffer.” When paired with Anionics (like SLES), it creates a salt-thickening curve. It significantly reduces the irritation potential of harsher surfactants.
Lauryl Glucoside (Non-Ionic – 52%): A thick, cloudy paste. Excellent for thickening and skin-mildness, but requires gentle heating ( $40^\circ\text{C}$ – $50^\circ\text{C}$ ) to become workable.
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (Amphoteric – 38%): The “Baby” surfactant. Does not trigger the ocular sting reflex; ideal for “no-tears” formulations.

Researcher Summary

Calculating ASM is the only way to ensure reproducibility in the lab. By mastering this math, I can hopefully swap one surfactant for another (e.g., replacing SLES with a more eco-friendly Sarcosinate) while maintaining the exact same “strength” of the detergent.

How to formulate a detergent – THEORY pt.2

My Lab Notes: Surfactant Assembly & Phase Logic

Hello Hello! 😀

I’ve been recording my experiments with detergents, and I’ve realized it’s about so much more than just getting the skin clean. It’s about managing the “Micellar structure” so the product feels professional.

1. My “Trio-Strategy” for Softness

I’ve documented that a single-surfactant system is usually too harsh for my skin. I’ve started using a three-part team:

Primary: My “cleaning engine” (like SLES).
Secondary: A “buffer” like Cocamidopropyl Betaine to reduce irritation.
Aesthetics: A tiny bit of Glyceryl Oleate to make the lather feel like luxury.

2. My Thickening Observations

I’ve noticed that people associate thickness with quality, so I’ve been testing three reliable ways to build “body”:

The Salt-Curve: I’ve recorded that SLES becomes extremely dense when I add electrolytes (salt) because it forces the micelles to pack tighter.
The pH Trigger: In my experiments with Sarcosinate, the texture changes completely at pH 5.0. It goes from thin to thick almost instantly!
Polymeric Support: If the surfactants are being stubborn, I use Xanthan Gum (<1%) in Phase A to get the flow I want.

3. My Assembly Protocol (Avoiding the “Crash”)

I have to be very careful with the order of addition to avoid “crashing” the formula or making it cloudy.

Phase A (The Aqueous Foundation): I hydrate my gums and glycerin here.
Phase B (The Concentrate): This is where my main surfactants go. Sips water. I’ve learned to mix these very slowly with a spatula—no immersion mixers allowed, or I’ll end up with a beaker full of air bubbles!
Phase C (The Trigger): This is my favorite part. When I add the Betaine and the pH adjusters at the end, I often see the “thickening moment” happen right before my eyes.

Final Lab Thought

Formulating detergents is a game of patience. If I rush the mixing, I lose the clarity. A thin gel still cleans, but I’ve found that a thick, glossy gel is what makes the experience feel truly professional. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

How to formulate a detergent – THEORY pt. 1

My Lab Notes: Surfactant Theory & The Chemistry of Cleansing

Hello Hello! 😀

I’m recording my research into surfactants (Surface Active Agents). These are the amphiphilic molecules that make my cleansers work. Their “water-loving” head and “oil-loving” tail are what allow them to lift debris from the skin.

1. The Four Groups (My Personality Map)

Surfactants can be categorized by their electrical charge. It’s the easiest way to predict how they’ll interact with skin and hair:

Anionic (-): My “powerhouses” for foam and cleaning (SLES, Sarcosinate).
Cationic (+): I use these for conditioning because they “stick” to the negatively charged hair shaft.
Non-Ionic (0): Usually mild stabilizers (Glucosides).
Amphoteric (+/-): My “buffers.” I’ve found these are essential for reducing the irritancy of the Anionics (Betaine).

2. The ASM Calculation (Active Matter)

I’ve documented a common trap: raw surfactants are rarely 100% pure. They are usually solutions.

The ASM Coefficient: Always check my supplier’s sheet. For instance, if my SLES is 27% ASM, I have to calculate my formula based on that “pure” percentage, not the total weight of the liquid.

My Target ASM Hierarchy:

Based on my trials, I’ve set these “strength targets” for my formulas:

Intimate Wash: ~5% ASM
Face Wash: <10% ASM
Shampoo: 10% – 15% ASM
Shower Gel: 18% – 20% ASM
Bubble Bath: 20% – 25% ASM

3. The Synergy Discovery

One of the most important things I’ve recorded is that synergy reduces irritancy.
Using 12% ASM of a single surfactant is much harsher than a 12% blend of three different types. I now always use a “Trio” (Primary + Buffer + Aesthetic Booster) to keep the skin barrier happy.

Self note: It’s important that I keep checking the Technical Data Sheets. Sometimes the same ingredient can vary between 27% and 30% ASM depending on the batch!

It’s all about layering the charges correctly to get a product that cleans without being aggressive.

Homemade cosmetics trends (and mistakes)

Theory: My Formulation Philosophy (No Miracles, Just Science!)

Hello Hello! 😀 When I first started studying how to make real cosmetics at home, it was because I was tired of the “miracle” recipes I found online. You know the ones: the “firming soap” made of aloe vera, or the “acne cure” that’s just 50% tea tree oil.

After years of studying, I’ve realized that the more you learn, the more you realize how much you don’t know. Today, I want to clear the air about some of the most common (and dangerous) myths in the handmade beauty world.

1. The “Miracle” Trap

Let’s be honest: No cosmetic is a miracle. When I started, I made creams packed with every active ingredient I owned, hoping for “photoshopped magazine skin.” Guess what? I still had my skin—just a little better hydrated. Making your own products is about learning not to believe commercial marketing (or trending “DIY” solutions) anymore.

2. “Natural” Does Not Mean “Mild”

This is a huge one. I see people adding Essential Oils to products for infants because they are “natural.” This is terribly wrong. Essential oils are highly concentrated and full of allergens. They are NOT “fresh water” and can cause painful reactions on a baby’s delicate skin. If you want a nice scent for a baby product, use an allergen-free fragrance oil instead!

3. I am a Formulator, Not a Doctor

It’s tempting to feel like a chemist-wizard once you start making creams, but we are not pharmacists. If a friend asks for a cream to “cure” their dermatitis or a medical condition, the only right answer is “NO.” I always tell my friends to see a dermatologist. My creams can hydrate and soothe, but they are not a medical cure.

4. The “Synthetic = Bad” Myth

Synthetic ingredients like SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) have suffered from terrible, misleading publicity. There is no scientific evidence that they cause cancer.

The Reality: Even “natural” soap can be harsher on the skin than a well-formulated synthetic detergent!
Concentration is Everything: People say SLS is used to clean garage floors—well, water can be lethal if you drink too much of it! It all depends on the concentration and the overall formula.

5. Preservatives Are NOT Optional

There is a massive campaign against preservatives, treating them like “concentrated evil.” In reality, they are the heroes that save your cream from becoming a bacteria playground.

The Rule: If your product contains water (or water-based ingredients), it MUST have a real preservative.

And no—Tea Tree oil is NOT a preservative, no matter what you read on the internet! 😀

Summary: The Formulator’s Code

Myth	The Truth
“Natural is always safe”	Essential oils can be highly allergenic and irritating.
“Preservatives are toxic”	Mold and bacteria in your cream are much more toxic!
“It’s a healing cure”	Cosmetics are for care and hydration, not medicine.
“SLES is dangerous”	Aggression depends on the formula, not just one ingredient.

I hope this helps you look at your ingredients (and those “miracle” pins on Pinterest) with a more critical eye!

What’s the strangest “miracle” claim you’ve seen online lately? Let’s debunk it together! 😀

Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe

Lab Note: The “Oil-Control” Spring Fluid

Hello Hello! 😀 With the spring days finally arriving, I wanted to formulate something light. This cream is specifically designed for oily skin that needs hydration without the weight. In fact, the oil percentage is so low it’s almost an “oil-free” cream!

The Oil-Control Duo:

Azeloglicine (6%): Pure Azelaic Acid is a nightmare to work with at home because it won’t dissolve in water or oil. Bingo! Azeloglicine is the answer. It’s a hydrophilic derivative that kills acne-causing bacteria and normalizes sebum.
Tiolisine Complex (2.5%): A sulfurated amino acid derivative that is a powerhouse for sebum-normalizing.

The Formula: Spring Oil-Control Fluid

Phase A (The Gel Base):

Water: to 100
Glycerin: 2.5
Xanthan Gum (Non-transparent): 0.11
Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.3

Phase B (The Light Oily Phase):

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 2.0 (Low % for a low-oil formula)
Cetyl Alcohol: 0.8 (Kept low to avoid a “waxy” feel)
Cetiol Sensoft: 1.5 (A very light synthetic oil for a smooth touch)
Evening Primrose Oil: 1.0
Hemp Oil: 0.5
Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0

Phase C1 (The “Dry” Finish):

Bisabolol: 0.5 (Soothing)
Dry Flo: 0.7 (Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate—for a matte finish!)

Phase C2 (The Actives):

Azeloglicine: 6.0
Tiolisine Complex: 2.5
Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0

Notes from my Beaker:

Consistency Matters: I intentionally made this a fluid lotion rather than a thick cream. For oily skin, thick textures can “feel” too rich or heavy. I prefer a light, milky fluid that sinks in immediately!
The Wax Factor: If you want it thicker, you could raise the Cetyl Alcohol to 1.5%, but I don’t recommend it for oily skin—it can start to feel like a wax layer on your face.
Active Power: Because Azeloglicine is water-soluble, it’s so much easier to incorporate into Phase C than trying to fight with pure Azelaic acid powder. It keeps the cream smooth and professional.

Final Verdict: This is my go-to when the weather gets warmer. It keeps the shine away while treating any little breakouts with the Tiolisine and Azeloglicine. It’s light, smooth, and fresh!

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😀 😀 😀

Buying online COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

Maybe you’ve been reading my posts thinking “yeah right… and where on earth am I gonna find these ingredients?!”
Well I guess it is time for me to show you a few online shops of raw material of cosmetic grade!
This is obviously very important because if you use a fragrance oil which is not of aimed in cosmetic use… well, don’t be surprised if you get a strong allergic reaction or even something worse… same goes if you use urea which you find in gardening shops: that won’t do! 😀

This said, of course in the online shops which sell raw materials for cosmetic use… all the ingredients are of cosmetic grade… but here a few tips in case the online shop you found is not in my list:
– maybe before you purchase, read around the internet if there are experiences of other people
– for each ingredient they sell, they are supposed to own a MSDS which is the Material Safety Data Sheet. The MSDS should be available for each ingredient on their website or they should send it to you after purchase: if it is not available on their website, before you place an order contact them and be sure they are going to send you one. This is important.
– Before purchasing try asking some information about one of the ingredients they sell: for example at what percentage it should be used, if it shouldn’t be used with certain ingredients and so on. Usually they have this information on the ingredient page but sometimes they don’t. A serious supplier will be able to give you some information, however, don’t expect too much: don’t expect suppliers to be formulators.
– If it is the first time you want to buy raw material… DON’T BUY EVERYTHING you find! Make a small list of ingredients that will be really useful (an emulsifier, a thickening agent, a gelling agent). Start planning to make simple creams, pick few active ingredients (maximum 3!), really: keep it simple! 😀
– do NOT go for the “nice name” ingredient: for example, if an ingredient name is “NO MORE WRINKLES concentrated active ingredient” 99% of the time it is a big NO NO NO 😀 If you click on it and look for the INCI name, probably it comes out that this “concentrate active ingredient” is actually made of “water, lecithin (emulsifier), some kind of oil, the great ingredient” and you can be sure that your great ingredient will be at minimum %.

Ok… after having warned you… 😀
Let me put some links! 😀
NOTE: I am not publicizing any website, I am just posting some websites I know of… that might help you in starting your serious COSMETIC DIY! 😀
I have bought only from some of these websites and obviously I am not responsible if something on your order goes wrong.

Here we go:

Asia:
http://www.bulkactives.com – good website! It has some ingredients which are very difficult to find somewhere else. Prices are a little bit higher than in other places.
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/

North America:
http://www.makingcosmetics.com – many ingredients and also sells in bulk!
http://www.ingredientstodiefor.com
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/

Europe:
http://www.gracefruit.com – UK – Has many many ingredients for soap-making and also some ingredients. Long list also of fragrance oils. Prices are quite high compared to other websites but some fragrances are difficult to find somewhere else.
http://www.activeformulas.com – UK – website mostly about active ingredients. It has a vast choice.
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/home/products/active -ingredients.aspx – UK
http://www.thesoapkitchen.co.uk/
http://www.phoenixproducts.co.uk/
http://www.sensoryperfection.co.uk/ – if you click HERE you will find my review of some of their fragrance oils

http://www.zrobsobiekrem.pl/pl/i/Information-for-foreigners/129 – PL – This website is from Poland and you can use Google Translate to translate everything written on the page. It sells cheap plant extracts and also some emulsifiers and active ingredients!

http://www.glamourcosmetics.it/ – IT – Probably my favourite Italian website that sells ingredients. Very serious, ship extremely fast, have good variety of ingredients – if you click HERE you will find my review of some of their fragrance oils.
http://www.dermolife.it/shop/index.php – IT – Italian website with good prices about tensioactives. Many active ingredients (vitamins, minerals, aminoacids) also.
http://www.farmaciavernile.it/ – IT – good ingredients (also some special ones which I couldn’t find on other websites).

http://www.dragonspice.de – DE – website from Germany.
http://www.manske-shop.com – DE – website from Germany. It has mostly ingredients about making soaps, therefore a lot of butters and oils, many fragrance oils, essential oils and only few cosmetic ingredients (but basic emulsifiers and active ingredients are there) – if you click HERE you will find a review on some of their fragrance oils.
http://www.alexmo-cosmetics.de/
http://www.aliacura.de/

http://www.aroma-zone.com – FR – French website. Many kinds of oils and butters (very exotic), emulsifiers, essential oils and some active ingredients (but read the INCI of each, before purchasing).

http://www.jabonariumshop.com – SP – website from Spain mainly about soap-making. Good prices.

http://kosmetikmacherei.at – AU

http://www.candlemaking.gr/ – GR

Australia:
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/
https://www.escentialsofaustralia.com/
http://www.n-essentials.com.au/
http://www.aussiesoapsupplies.com.au/
http://www.heirloombodycare.com.au/

Please let me know if you know any good shop from your own country.
Notice also that if you make an order from a website which is not in your country, you might have to pay custom duties… so get informed about it before you make your order! 🙂

Hair Conditioner Recipe (and THEORY)

Theory & Practice: The Basic Hair Conditioner

Hello Hello! :D Today I want to show you a foundational recipe for a high-performance hair conditioner.

Making a conditioner is similar to making a skin lotion, but there are some critical differences in the technique. If you don’t follow these, your conditioner might fail or separate!

The Two Golden Rules of Conditioner:

The Pour: In a lotion, we usually pour the Oil (B) into the Water (A). In a conditioner, you MUST pour the Water (Phase A) into the Oil (Phase B). This is vital for the cationic emulsion!
Phase C: There isn’t a “block” Phase C. You must add every extra ingredient SINGULARLY, ONE BY ONE, once the emulsion is at room temperature.

The Formula: Eco-Friendly Conditioner

Phase A (Water):

Water: to 100
Glycerin: 3.0
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: 0.1 (This is a fantastic detangler! If you don’t have it, you can use a Flaxseed or Mallow infusion instead).
Heat to precisely 75°C.

Phase B (The Cationic Base):

Esterquat: 8.0 (This is a cationic emulsifier—specifically for hair! It’s great because it’s eco-friendly).
Jojoba Oil: 2.0
Cetyl Alcohol: 3.5 (For thickness and “slip”)
Stearic Acid: 1.5
Heat to 70°C.

“Phase C” (Add one by one!):

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: 3.0
Panthenol: 1.0
Polyquaternium-7: 2.0 (Enhances the conditioning. You can skip it if you don’t have it).
Preservative: (According to your product’s dosage, e.g., 0.6%)
Fragrance/Essential Oil: To your taste! :D

Notes from my Beaker:

The Emulsifier: Unlike face creams, conditioners need a Cationic charge to stick to the hair (which has a negative charge). Esterquat is the perfect choice because it’s much better for the environment than older conditioning agents.
Temperature Check: Use your thermometer! If Phase A isn’t hot enough when it hits the Esterquat, the emulsion won’t be as smooth and stable.
The Finish: Once you’ve added your ingredients one by one, give it a final slow stir. You’ll notice the texture becomes very creamy and rich.

Final Verdict: This conditioner is simple but very effective. It leaves the hair soft, easy to comb, and static-free without being too heavy.

HAVE A GREAT DAY!!! 😀

Lab Notes: The ASM Reality

What I’ve Learnt About ASM Targets

The ASM Protocol — Quantitative Detergent Design

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My Lab Notes: Surfactant Assembly & Phase Logic

1. My “Trio-Strategy” for Softness

2. My Thickening Observations

3. My Assembly Protocol (Avoiding the “Crash”)

Final Lab Thought

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My Lab Notes: Surfactant Theory & The Chemistry of Cleansing

1. The Four Groups (My Personality Map)

2. The ASM Calculation (Active Matter)

My Target ASM Hierarchy:

3. The Synergy Discovery

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Theory: My Formulation Philosophy (No Miracles, Just Science!)

1. The “Miracle” Trap

2. “Natural” Does Not Mean “Mild”

3. I am a Formulator, Not a Doctor

4. The “Synthetic = Bad” Myth

5. Preservatives Are NOT Optional

Summary: The Formulator’s Code

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Lab Note: The “Oil-Control” Spring Fluid

The Oil-Control Duo:

The Formula: Spring Oil-Control Fluid

Notes from my Beaker:

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Theory & Practice: The Basic Hair Conditioner

The Two Golden Rules of Conditioner:

The Formula: Eco-Friendly Conditioner

Notes from my Beaker:

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