Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe

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This is a cream made specifically for oily skin and for spring days! 😀
There are two important active ingredients in this cream which will perform the function of oil-controllers:
– Azelaic Acid 
– Tiolisine 

The Azelaic Acid however is insoluble in water or oil therefore it is very difficult for us to use it in our home production (you can find it in online shops of raw materials but I don’t know how it could be used since it is impossible to melt it or dissolve it properly in any liquid)… this is why in this recipe I have used a derivative of Azelaic Acid called Azeloglicine (it contains approx 30% of Azelaic Acid in a hydrophilic form! Bingo! :D).
Azelaic Acid is mainly used for its oil-control properties but it is also used to treat acne (both comedonal and inflammatory) because it kills the bacteria which cause acne and it also decreases the production of keratin which is a substance that promotes the growth of bacteria.
Tiolisine is a sulfurated aminoacid derivative which also has sebum-normalizing properties and it is usually used between 2-4% (3-5% in detergents like shampoo for dandruff).

The recipe I have made for this cream is as simple as possible.
Now I write the recipe and then I explain some more things:

RECIPE: [in case you are new to the making of creams, HERE you can learn what I am talking about ;)]
PHASE A:
water to 100 (HERE the explanation)
xanthan gum 0.11 (possibly not the transparent kind: for gels the transparent xanthan gum is good, for creams the other is better)
carbopol ultrez 21 0.3
glycerin 2.5

PHASE B:
Methyl glucose sesquistearate 2 (I use this low percentage because the oils in this cream are very low)
Cetyl Alcohol 0.8
Cetiol sensoft 1.5
Evening Primrose Oil 1
Hemp oil 0.5
Tocopherol 1

PHASE C 1 : 
Bisabolol 0.5
Dry Flo (INCI aluminum starch octenyl succinate) 0.7

PHASE C 2 :
Azeloglicine 6
Tiolisine Complex 2.5

Preservative 0.6 (or according to the right percentage of use of your own preservative).

Adjust the pH at 5.5 – 6
The oil percentage is so low it could be considered an oil-free cream.
The consistency of the cream is rather fluid: I always have the feeling that thick creams are more suitable for dry skins (at least this is the feeling I get: if a cream is thick, I unconsciously associate it with the idea of a “too rich” cream for an oily skin), while fluid lotions give me better the idea of something light. So this is all up to you (if you want a thick cream you can rise the cetyl alcohol up to 1.5%… but since this is like a wax on our skin, I don’t recommend it :D).
Cetiol Sensoft is a very light synthetic oil which gives a smooth touch to the cream. If you want to avoid using synthetic oils and you wish to use only natural oils, you could substitute this ingredient with the same amount of jojoba oil (which is a bit more dense but it is the lightest natural “oil”).

Hope this was helpful to those of you who have trouble with oily skin!
Let me know if it worked for you 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😀

9 thoughts on “Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe”

  1. Hi I need azeloyl glycin and I rodent found sent where can you help my to find those item and the source must shipping to Saudi Arabia please

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  2. I have tried 3 times now and i cant seem to get a thick sleek emulsion like yours using methil glucose sesquestearate. I end up with a runny cream.I even increased my butter to 7% and 5percent soft oils , 3%MGS and 2% cetyl alchohol. Can u trouble shoot here?

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  3. I also noticed that the MGS dosent really melt well in oil(u still see it grainy below the beaker) is that normal? I mean before adding the oil phase to the water phase. Its 3 days now, does it mean that even after a week, it will keep thickening? Cos right now, it’s runny after 3 days.

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    1. The MGS DOES melt easily in oil, if you mixed the phases without melting the MGS and the cetyl alcohol properly, then you might face separation because the emulsion didn’t form properly.
      You have to wait until the right temperature has been reached and until all the phase B looks homogenized.

      MGS is an emulsifier and not a thickener, so it is not its job to thicken. The thickener in this case is the cetyl alcohol and the gelling agent of the water phase.
      Cetyl alcohol takes time, even more than 3 days is ok.
      However, you might face other issues since your emulsifier didn’t melt properly.

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  4. I will try again, because at 75degree celcius, the MGS didnt melt into the oil? I held it for 20mins before adding to the water phase. Roughly how long does it take to melt into the oil when u use?

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