Smooth Away Face Cream

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Hello everyone!

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Continue reading Smooth Away Face Cream

No Foam Face Wash

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For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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Lab Note: My “No-Foam” Gentle Face Wash

Hello Hello! :D This recipe is very special to me. For two years, I struggled with a constant, annoying form of acne. I was doing everything “right” according to the commercials—scrubbing like crazy, using alcoholic toners, and applying aggressive creams. Nothing worked!

Then, I finally decided to give my skin a break. I stopped the aggression and started treating my skin with respect. This face wash was a huge part of that. It doesn’t make a big foam, and it doesn’t leave your skin feeling “squeaky” (which usually just means “stripped!“), but it cleans perfectly.

The “Why” behind the formula:

I wanted a very delicate ASM of only 6.5%. Most shampoos are 15%, so you can see how much gentler this is! I also used a “Trio” of surfactants to keep it balanced:

  • Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate: My primary surfactant. It’s so much softer than SLES!

  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Added specifically to make the first one even milder.

  • Lauryl Glucoside: A non-ionic touch to keep everything stable.

The Formula:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 3

  • Xanthan Gum 0.5 (I add this because Sarcosinate loves to become as liquid as water! This gives it a little “body” so it doesn’t slip through your fingers.)

  • Preservative (Water-soluble!)

Phase B:

  • Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 10

  • Lauryl Glucoside – 2 (It’s a dense paste, so microwave it for a few seconds first! :D)

  • Lavender EO – 2 drops

  • Sage EO – 2 drops (I love these for acne-prone skin because they are so soothing.)

Phase C:

  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 6

  • Lactic Acid (To reach pH 5—this is the secret to making it dense!)


Notes from the Beaker:

  1. Mixing with Love: I mixed everything very slowly with a spoon. If you mix too fast, you get a beaker full of bubbles and you’ll have to wait ages for them to go away!

  2. The pH Secret: This is the most important part! You must lower the pH to 5 using Lactic or Citric acid. One drop at a time! When you hit pH 5, the Sarcosinate suddenly becomes dense and “creamy.” If you go lower than 5, it might go liquid again, so be careful! 😉

  3. The Order: I add the Betaine (Phase C) at the very end. Sometimes adding it too early makes the whole thing “melt” into a liquid mess.

  4. A Touch of Color: I added one tiny drop of blue food coloring just to make it look pretty and fun in my bathroom.

Final Verdict: This face wash doesn’t “shout,” but it works. It leaves my skin calm, hydrated, and happy. If you are tired of aggressive products, give this a try! ENJOY! 🙂

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“Hydrating Elixir” Serum with Hyaluronic Acid

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Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Lactate Serum 6

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I share one of my last experiments in the home “lsab”. Where I live, we had days over 40°C, and I just wanted something that felt icy and refreshing. I decided to formulate a serum that behaves perfectly when stored in the fridge—though I always remind myself: even if it’s cold, THERE IS NO ESCAPE FROM PRESERVATIVES! 😀

This is an “upgraded” version of my basic Hyaluronic Acid gel. I wanted to include two salts that I usually can’t put in my lotions because my favorite polymeric emulsifiers are such picky divas when it comes to salts! But in a simple water-based serum, they are absolute stars.

The Formula I Used:

  • Water: to 100%

  • Sodium Hyaluronate (high molecular weight): 1%

  • Sodium Hyaluronate (low molecular weight): 0.5%

  • Sodium Lactate: 2%

  • Sodium PCA: 1%

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): 2.5%

  • D-Panthenol: 0.5%

  • Phenonip: 0.5%

  • Fragrance oil (Rock Candy): 0.2%


Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The Hyaluronic “Fuss”: I measured out the water and poured the high molecular weight HA on top. Usually, I try to be patient and let it hydrate naturally, but I was in a rush! I used a stick blender which made it cloudy at first, but after a few days, it turned perfectly transparent. I did the same with the low molecular weight version right after.

  2. The Humectant Boost: I added the Sodium Lactate and Sodium PCA next. Since these are naturally found in our skin (NMF), they make the serum feel so high-performing.

  3. The Niacinamide Caution: I love using Vitamin B3 in the summer, but it’s so sensitive to pH. I measured mine and it was around 7.5, so I used a couple of drops of lactic acid to bring it down to pH 6.5. It’s essential to keep it in that neutral range!

  4. A Touch of Pink: I added one drop of pink food colorant just to pamper myself. It wasn’t a necessity, but it looks so pretty in the bottle!

  5. The Scent: I used a “Rock Candy” fragrance (the Rock Star dupe) and I absolutely LOVE it.

Final Verdict: I was a bit worried that with so many hygroscopic ingredients, it would feel sticky in the 40°C heat, but it’s not at all! I think the Niacinamide really helps with that. I only apply one drop and my skin feels unbelievably smooth. It’s the perfect “fridge treat” for the face. ENJOY! 🙂

Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Lactate Serum 3

I have added one drop of pink food colorant cause I like to pamper myself with colors. Was it a necessity? Nope.
The Fragrance Oil used in this Serum was Rock Candy from Sensory Perfection (the L**h dupe for “Rock Star”) and I LOVE IT! 🙂

Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Lactate Serum 4

Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Lactate Serum

 

Pearl Sensation – Face Wash Recipe

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No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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Pearl Sensation Face Wash DIY

Lab Note: My “Pearl Sensation” Luxury Face Wash

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m obsessed with a texture. I wanted to create a face wash that felt like something you’d find in a high-end spa—something with that beautiful, silky, pearlescent glow that catches the light in the bottle.

I’ve made many face washes, but for this one, the challenge was to keep it super gentle for the skin while getting that “wow” visual effect. yeheee! 😀

The “Pearl” Strategy:

To get that shimmering look, I used a Pearlizing Agent (usually a mix of Glycol Distearate). But here’s what I noticed: if you use too much, it can make the wash feel “waxy.” I had to find the perfect balance so it stayed liquid and easy to rinse, but still looked like liquid silk.

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 3

  • Xanthan Gum (Transparent Version) – 0.4 (I used the transparent one so it wouldn’t cloud the “pearl” shimmer!)

Phase B (The Gentle Cleansing Trio):

  • Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 10 (My favorite for a soft, skin-friendly clean.)

  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 8

  • Coco-Glucoside – 2

  • Pearlizing Wax (Euperlan PK 771) – 3 (This is where the “Sensation” comes from!)

Phase C (The Finishing Touches):

  • Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins – 1 (To match the name! 😉 )

  • Preservative (According to the type I have)

  • Lactic Acid (To bring the pH to 5.5)

  • Fragrance (I used a very soft “Baby Powder” and “Cotton” scent—it feels so clean!)


Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The Visual Magic: I noticed that the “pearl” effect doesn’t show up immediately. When the mixture is hot or just freshly stirred, it looks a bit “blah.” But as it cools and the surfactants settle, the shimmering “waves” start to appear. It’s so satisfying to watch!

  2. No Bubbles Please: Just like my other washes, I stirred this very slowly. If I incorporate too much air, the bubbles get trapped in the pearlescent “silk” and it looks messy. Patience is key! 😀

  3. The pH Density: I found that when I hit pH 5.5, the Sarcosinate and the Pearlizing agent work together to get the perfect density. It’s not too liquid, not too thick—it’s just right for a pump bottle.

  4. Gentleness Check: Even with the “fancy” look, I kept the ASM (Active Surfactant Matter) low. My skin didn’t feel tight or “squeaky” afterward, just very soft.

Final Verdict: This is definitely the prettiest thing on my bathroom shelf right now. It’s gentle, it’s shimmering, and it makes washing my face feel like a little luxury every morning. ENJOY! 😀

Pearl Sensation Face Wash DIY 2

Spring Hydrating and Multivit – Face Cream

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No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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Spring Face Cream - Itsallinmyhands

My “Multivit” Spring Hydrating Cream

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m so happy to share my recipe for a “skin-awakening” cream. I made this specifically for the transition into Spring. During winter, my skin always ends up looking a bit dull and “tired,” so I wanted something light, super hydrating, and packed with vitamins to bring back that healthy glow! yeheee!

The Vitamin Cocktail:

I didn’t want a heavy, occlusive cream; I wanted a “water-bomb” effect. I used a combination of Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) for healing, Vitamin E for protection, and a touch of Vitamin C (the stable version!) to brighten things up. It’s like a fresh smoothie for the face!

The Formula:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 3

  • Xanthan Gum 0.2

  • Hyaluronic Acid (1% solution) – 5 (This is the secret for that “plump” Spring skin!)

Phase B:

  • Emulsifier (I used Olivem 1000) – 4 (I lowered it slightly from 5 to 4 to keep it lighter for the warmer weather.)

  • Rice Bran Oil – 3 (Very light and full of antioxidants.)

  • Jojoba Oil – 2

  • Ethylhexyl Stearate – 3 (This is a very fast-spreading “dry” oil that helps the cream absorb in seconds!)

Phase C (The Vitamin Boost):

  • Panthenol (B5) – 1

  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E) – 1

  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) – 0.5 (This stable version of Vitamin C is great because it doesn’t irritate the skin as much!)

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – 2 (My absolute favorite for refining pores and evening out the skin tone.)

  • Preservative (According to your type)

  • Fragrance (I used a “Green Tea and Lemon” scent—it smells so fresh! :D)


Notes from the Beaker:

  1. The Niacinamide Trick: I make sure to dissolve the Niacinamide in a tiny bit of water from Phase A before adding it at the end. If the pH of your cream is too low (below 5), Niacinamide can get “angry” and turn into nicotinic acid, which makes your face flush red! So I always check that the pH is exactly 5.5.

  2. Lightness is Key: Since this is for Spring, I used more “dry” emollients. If you feel like it’s still too heavy, you can swap the Jojoba for more Rice Bran oil.

  3. The Glow: The combination of Vitamin C and Hyaluronic acid gives an immediate brightness. It doesn’t hide imperfections; it just makes the skin look “awake.”

  4. Heating: Usual drill! Heat A and B to 70°C, then combine. Wait until it’s below 40°C before adding all those precious vitamins in Phase C, or the heat might destroy them!

Final Verdict: I’ve been using this for a week and my skin feels so much more resilient. It’s the perfect “reset” button after a long, cold winter. ENJOY! 😀

Aloe Vera Face Cream DIY

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Aloe Vera Cream Cover

In this experiment I tried to formulat a soothing, matte-finish cream designed for skin that is no longer in an active acne phase but remains sensitive and prone to congestion. I tried creating a “grease fall” that would use butters which don’t melt so easily and don’t spread on the skin like, let’s say, coconut butter.

The Technical Highlights

The “Dry” Lipid Profile (Grease Fall)

To achieve a matte finish and avoid a “heavy” skin feel, I utilized a strategic blend of lipids:

  • The “Dry” Butters: Kokum and Murumuru butters provide structural richness but possess a high stearic acid content, which leads to a “dryer” finish on the skin compared to Shea or Cocoa butter.
  • Non-Comedogenic Oils: Safflower, Black Currant, and Cranberry seed oils are high in linoleic acid. In my records, I prioritize these for acne-prone skin as they help balance the skin’s sebum composition.
  • Cetiol Sensoft: A lightweight synthetic ester used to enhance the “slip” and provide a professional, elegant texture without greasiness.
Phase Component % / grams Function
A Distilled Water to 100 Solvent
A Glycerin 4.0 Humectant
A Xanthan Gum 0.25 Stabilizer
B Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 3.0 Emulsifier
B Cetyl Alcohol 1.8 Co-emulsifier / Thickener
B Kokum & Murumuru Butters 1.0 / 1.0 “Dry” Butters
B Vitamin E / Cetiol Sensoft 0.5 / 0.5 Antioxidant / Emollient
C1 High-Linoleic Oil Blend 2.0 Nutrient Lipids (Cold Phase)
C1 Bisabolol 0.5 Soothing Active
C2 Hyaluronic Acid (1% Gel) 3.0 Hydration
C2 D-Panthenol / Allantoin 1.0 / 0.4 Healing / Anti-irritant
C2 Silk Hydrolyzed Proteins 2.6 Conditioning
C2 Aloe Vera Powder (200:1) 0.5 Concentrated Soothing
D Preservative / Fragrance 1.0 / q.s. Protection / Aesthetic

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The Aloe Choice: I used a high-quality Aloe Vera juice/gel. You have to be careful with Aloe because if you use the “ready-made” gels from the store, they already have thickeners in them that can mess up your emulsion. I prefer the liquid version so I can control the texture myself.

  2. The Emulsion: I heated Phase A and Phase B to about 70°C. When I combined them, I used my mini-mixer for a few minutes until it turned into a beautiful, snowy white cream. It’s so satisfying to watch it thicken as it cools!

  3. The pH Check: As always, I made sure to check the pH once it cooled down. Keeping it at 5.5 is the “sweet spot” for my skin to stay happy and the barrier to stay strong.

  4. The Feel: This cream has a “velvet” finish. It sinks in quickly but you can still feel that the Aloe is there, keeping the skin hydrated and plump.

Final Verdict: This has become my go-to “emergency” cream for whenever my skin feels a bit sensitized. It’s simple, it’s cooling, and it works! It’s amazing what a difference a good amount of Aloe can make. ENJOY! 😀

Aloe Cream

Q10 Antioxidant Face Cream DIY

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For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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Q10 Antioxidant Face Cream DIY

Lab Note: My “Antioxidant Network” Experiment!

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am so excited to share an experiment that is a bit “brainy” but so cool! I call it the Antioxidant Network. Usually, we just pick one “hero” ingredient like Vitamin C, but I wanted to try something different. I wanted to build a team!

The idea is the Redox Theory—it’s like a relay race for your skin. When one antioxidant gets “tired” from fighting free radicals, the others step in to “recharge” it so the whole system keeps working. It’s synergy in a jar! yeheee! 😀

The Team Members:

  • Coenzyme Q10: The energy booster! It gives the cream a lovely yellow tint.

  • SAP (Vitamin C): I used Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate because it’s way less “grumpy” and irritating than pure Vitamin C.

  • Alpha-Lipoic Acid (0.5%): The “Universal” antioxidant. Warning: This stuff has a “Hell-Smell” of its own—it’s very sulfuric! I only used 0.5% because I wanted the benefits without smelling like a matchstick factory. 😛

  • Vitamin E: To protect the oils and the skin’s lipids.

The Emulsifier “Fuss”: Hitecream 3000

I played with Hitecream 3000 for this one. It’s a vegetable, protein-based emulsifier that’s supposed to be super skin-compatible. I used it at 7% on its own. It gave a stable cream, but next time I might drop it to 5% and add a bit of Cetyl Alcohol to make the texture feel a bit more “posh.”

The Formula I Used:

Phase A:

  • Distilled Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 2.0

  • Carbopol Ultrez 21 / Xanthan: 0.3 / 0.2 (My hybrid gelling system!)

Phase B:

  • Hitecream 3000: 7.0

  • Kokum & Murumuru Butters: 1.5 / 1.0 (Love my dry butters!)

  • Dicaprylyl Ether: 1.5

  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0

Phase C (The Antioxidant Cold Phase):

  • Safflower & Ribes Nigrum Oils: 0.5 / 0.5

  • Q10 / Alpha-Lipoic Acid: 0.1 / 0.5

Phase D (The Finishing Touch):

  • SAP (Vitamin C): 1.0

  • Rose Water: 10.0 (To dissolve the SAP)

  • D-Panthenol / Preservative: 1.0 / q.s.


Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The “No-Stir” Trick: For the Carbopol Ultrez 21, I just let it float on the water until it hydrated itself. No clumps, no stress! Then I added my Xanthan-Glycerin slurry.

  2. Heat it Up: Hitecream needs to hit 70°C to wake up and start working.

  3. The Cooling Phase: I was very careful here. I pre-dispersed the Q10 and that stinky Alpha-Lipoic acid in the cold oils (Phase C) and only added them when the cream was cool. I also dissolved the SAP in Rose Water before stirring it in.

  4. The Look: The Q10 makes it a pale yellow, but I added one drop of food colorant just to make it look “fresh” and pretty on my vanity.

Final Verdict: The synergy between the SAP and the Q10 really made my skin look vibrant! Even with the slight “sulfur” hint from the Alpha-Lipoic acid, I really liked how this cream performed. It feels like a high-tech shield for the face! ENJOY! 🙂