Long time no see 😀
I have kept formulating all this time, but there wasn’t much new to write about since I tend to go back to the ingredients I know and love…
However TODAY, ladies and gentlemen, I am posting THE FORMULA, the one I have been running after all these years!
1) a new emulsifier, which I instantly fell in love with
2) a new procedure!
and clearly a 3) NEW cream sensation! 😀
Let’s talk briefly about the emulsifier:
I have purchased it from Alexmo, the commercial name is PolyAquol and the INCI is: Polyclyceryl-2-Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Stearyl Alcohol.
It can be used between 1%-5%. It is a PEG-free, non-ionic, O/W, self-emulsifying, Ecocert and Cosmos approved emulsifier, which needs to be heated up to 80°C.
It is also electrolyte tolerant, works well in a wide range of pH and it generates liquid crystal structures.
The formula I am going to write was actually a simple trial test, because I wanted to see how this emulsifier worked, so I only added a gelling agent to the water phase but no thickener, to see how well this emulsifier worked (and it worked wonders!!!). I have also tried to add cetyl alcohol in a formula for an eye cream (which I might not might not post later on) and it obviously changed the viscosity of the lotion but it didn’t change the feel of the cream, which is great!
Enough words already, here you go!
PHASE A+B (in this formula I have combined the Phase A and Phase B, I explain why and how in the process)
Water to 100%
Actigum 0.3% (this is a rheology modifier by Cargill and it’s made of Scleroglucan and Xanthan Gum. I have to say that it does help enhance the feel of the lotion. I am quite in love with this gelling agent)
Dycaprylyl Ether 2%
Caprylic/Capric Triglicerides 2%
Kokum Butter 2%
Coconut Oil 1%
Pentavitin 2% – a very hydrating active
Tiolisine Complex 3% – this is an active from Sinerga, whose INCI is Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate, Lysine Thiazolidine Carboxylate – “a combination of sulfurated amino acids with sebum normalizing properties” – I have oily skin so if this is not an issue of yours, you can obviously omit the ingredient
Sensilene 1% – INCI: Butylene Glycol (Natural, ECOCERT), Water, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract – This active has soothing, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, so it is perfect for sensitive skin especially in the winter time.
Ribes Nigrum Extract 1%
Liftonin Express 0.25% – this is a wonderful active ingredient, the INCI is Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (and) Pullulan (and) Porphyridium Cruentum Extract Dosage: 0,5 – 3,0% “LIFTONIN®-XPRESS is a balanced polymer network made from sustainable raw materials and biopolymers that provides an immediate and long-lasting tightening and lifting active ingredient. It smooths and minimizes wrinkles and improves the micro-structure in the eye area.”
Preserving System 1%
Fragrance Oil: q.s. – I added two drops of CK One dupe fragrance oil.
1) I have measured the water phase (the first three ingredients) and mixed it to help hydrate the Actigum. (Phase A)
2) I started heating up the water phase while measuring the oil phase which I then added directly to the water phase (Phase A + B)
3) I heat the Phase A+B up to 80°C and then homogenized it very well.
4) I placed the beaker in a cool bath with continuous stirring.
5) Once the lotion was at 30°-35°C I added the Phase C to it and homogenized.
This is probably the best part of this face cream: it is not very viscous, obviously, but it spreads amazingly. It doesn’t drag at all, on the contrary it feels extremely smooth and soothing. It is a real pleasure to apply!
I believe Liftoning Express is a great ingredient, but this is a formula that all together works: starting from the choice of gelling agent, the emulsifier, the actives… until the famous “grease fall” which, you might have noticed, is a little more articulated and rich than I usually go for!
I do love this formula a lot!
Let me know if you try it! 😉 Till next time…