Hello everyone! 😀
I was already in love with a shampoo recipe but I have “upgraded” it thanks to “betaine” (this is the INCI name, but to not confuse it with surfactants we better call it Trimethylglycine or TMG).
Wikipedia says: “Trimethylglycine (TMG) is an organic compound that occurs in plants. Trimethylglycine was the first betaine discovered by science; originally it was simply called betaine because, in the 19th century, it was discovered in sugar beets”.
So what is all the fuss about this ingredient? 😀
Properties of Trimethylglycine:
In detergents, at a 5% concentration, it helps making the detergent more gentle on the skin, so in this shampoo this is why I have added it 😀
But this is definitely not all about this great ingredient: it has anti-inflamatory and soothing properties, so it is great used in creams for people with sensitive skin, it helps reaching a very creamy consistency in creams (so it is a plus for texture! 😉 ), apparently it also helps to stabilize vitamin C.
How to use it: it is used at a percentage between 2% and 5% in creams but in detergents it should be added at 5%. It is water soluble. It has a basic pH so beware if you are using it with pH sensitive ingredients (like Niacinamide for instance… which should never reach very basic pH).
This recipe will give you a highly conditioning and delicate shampoo, very thick thanks to the use of surfactants 😉 (sles + betaine… remember? 😉 ). The foam is soft and with small bubbles.
It is not totally eco-friendly for the use of SLES, which is my favorite surfactant for shampoos because of its strong “wetting ability” (if you have doubts on using SLES because of the terrorism you find online, you might want to read here).
If, instead, you don’t want to use SLES because of the ecological issue, even if we are using it in small amount… well you can substitute it with an eco-friendly surfactant (sodium lauroyl sulfoccinate, for example) but it will be a liquid shampoo which will not feel as soft on the hair. Won’t be harmful anyway… so you can use it 🙂
Finally on to the RECIPE :
[If you don’t know anything about making detergents with surfactants… go here 😉 If you are confused on where to find these ingredients… there is a list of online websites from many countries in the world! 🙂 check HERE ]
Water to 100 (explanation HERE)
Inulin 1 (it helps untangle hair. If you have short hair you can totally omit this ingredient 😉 )
Hydrolized Wheat Proteins 3 (if you have powder wheat proteins you can use up to 0.5% or even less!)
Preservative (mine is water soluble, this is why I have added it here 😀 if yours is oil-soluble you can add it to the Phase B, at the concentration needed)
SLES (sodium laureth sulphate) 25%
Decyl Glucoside 3%
Coco Glucoside & Glyceryl Oleate 3%
Fragrance Oil of cosmetic grade 0.5% – In this one I used “My Karma” from Manske-shop (this is the reason for the name of the shampoo itself)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10%
Food colorant – few drops, if you want to add it 😉
Poliquaternium 7 – 2% (this is a conditioner for the hair. It will help the shampoo make your hair soft and easy to untangle!) Add this ingredients at the end, add it slowly and keep stirring with a spatula. It might happen that the viscosity will decrease gradually so stop adding it if it becomes too liquid (to reach the 100%, adjust by adding water)
In the end check the pH. It should be around 5.5 😀
If it is too basic you can add a little bit of citric acid and measure again until satisfied 😉
You separately prepare Phase A and Phase B, adding one ingredient at a time. When both are homogeneously mixed you pour Phase A into Phase B and mix. You will notice the result at this stage is not thick but rather liquid. Once everything is mixed properly… add the Cocamidopropyl betaine and mix… you will be amazed on how thick it becomes! 😀
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