DIY Karma Shampoo (extra delicate!) & chat on betaine

Hello everyone! 😀

Make your own Karma Shampoo
I was already in love with a shampoo recipe but I have “upgraded” it thanks to “betaine” (this is the INCI name, but to not confuse it with surfactants we better call it Trimethylglycine or TMG).
Wikipedia says: “Trimethylglycine (TMG) is an organic compound that occurs in plants. Trimethylglycine was the first betaine discovered by science; originally it was simply called betaine because, in the 19th century, it was discovered in sugar beets”.
So what is all the fuss about this ingredient? 😀
Properties of Trimethylglycine:
In detergents, at a 5% concentration, it helps making the detergent more gentle on the skin, so in this shampoo this is why I have added it 😀
But this is definitely not all about this great ingredient: it has anti-inflamatory and soothing properties, so it is great used in creams for people with sensitive skin, it helps reaching a very creamy consistency in creams (so it is a plus for texture! 😉 ), apparently it also helps to stabilize vitamin C.
How to use it: it is used at a percentage between 2% and 5% in creams but in detergents it should be added at 5%. It is water soluble. It has a basic pH so beware if you are using it with pH sensitive ingredients (like Niacinamide for instance… which should never reach very basic pH).

This recipe will give you a highly conditioning and delicate shampoo, very thick thanks to the use of surfactants 😉 (sles + betaine… remember? 😉 ). The foam is soft and with small bubbles.
It is not totally eco-friendly for the use of SLES, which is my favorite surfactant for shampoos because of its strong “wetting ability” (if you have doubts on using SLES because of the terrorism you find online, you might want to read here).
If, instead, you don’t want to use SLES because of the ecological issue, even if we are using it in small amount… well you can substitute it with an eco-friendly surfactant (sodium lauroyl sulfoccinate, for example) but it will be a liquid shampoo which will not feel as soft on the hair. Won’t be harmful anyway… so you can use it 🙂

Finally on to the RECIPE :

[If you don’t know anything about making detergents with surfactants… go here 😉 If you are confused on where to find these ingredients… there is a list of online websites from many countries in the world! 🙂 check HERE ]

Phase A:
Water to 100 (explanation HERE)
Glycerin 3
Inulin 1 (it helps untangle hair. If you have short hair you can totally omit this ingredient 😉 )
Hydrolized Wheat Proteins 3 (if you have powder wheat proteins you can use up to 0.5% or even less!)
Preservative (mine is water soluble, this is why I have added it here 😀 if yours is oil-soluble you can add it to the Phase B, at the concentration needed)
Trimethylglicine 5

Phase B:
SLES (sodium laureth sulphate) 25%
Decyl Glucoside 3%
Coco Glucoside & Glyceryl Oleate 3%
Fragrance Oil of cosmetic grade 0.5% – In this one I used “My Karma” from Manske-shop (this is the reason for the name of the shampoo itself)

Phase C:
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10%
Food colorant – few drops, if you want to add it 😉
Poliquaternium 7 – 2% (this is a conditioner for the hair. It will help the shampoo make your hair soft and easy to untangle!) Add this ingredients at the end, add it slowly and keep stirring with a spatula. It might happen that the viscosity will decrease gradually so stop adding it if it becomes too liquid (to reach the 100%, adjust by adding water)

In the end check the pH. It should be around 5.5 😀
If it is too basic you can add a little bit of citric acid and measure again until satisfied 😉

HOW TO:
You separately prepare Phase A and Phase B, adding one ingredient at a time. When both are homogeneously mixed you pour Phase A into Phase B and mix. You will notice the result at this stage is not thick but rather liquid. Once everything is mixed properly… add the Cocamidopropyl betaine and mix… you will be amazed on how thick it becomes! 😀

Make your own Karma Shampoo

For more recipes click HERE 
To learn how to formulate cosmetics click HERE
For a list of online cosmetic ingredients suppliers click HERE 

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

8 thoughts on “DIY Karma Shampoo (extra delicate!) & chat on betaine

  1. Teri says:

    I am new to soap making due to my husband has MCS. I have made some soap by recipes I am having a hard time understanding yours. I know this because I don’t understand the calculation put of soap making. I can’t find anyone around me no classes to go to.

    Like

    • It's all in my hands says:

      Hello Teri,
      you talk about soap making, but you are commenting under a post of a shampoo.
      A shampoo is not made in the same way as a soap is made, that is why the recipes are very different and the making process is very different as well.
      I suggest you to go to the Site Index and read all the posts about formulating and making soaps, creams, detergents, shampoos… 🙂

      Like

  2. Suzanne says:

    Hi! I love your website and am toying with the idea of making a shampoo. I was wondering, when you write in your recipes “SLES 25%, Cocamidopropyl 10%” etc – do you mean that amount of the liquid product you have bought as is, already diluted in water?
    Or do you mean that you calculate it so it will be 25% of the *active substance* in your final product?
    I’m thinking the former, because it seems like 25% SLES would make a very very strong shampoo… But if so, how diluted are the products you use for this recipe?
    Is it approx. 26% SLES, 30% CAPB, 50% decyl glucoside as seems to be most available in Europe? I thought you would need higher concentrations than that even in a shampoo, interesting if not!
    Thanks for all your lovely posts 🙂

    Like

    • It's all in my hands says:

      Hello Suzanne.
      Indeed it is the amount of my pre-diluted surfactants!
      If you want to know more, I have written few posts about this matter where I explain how to calculate the right amount of surfactants in a formula depending if you want to make a shampoo, a face wash and so on 🙂

      Like

      • Suzanne says:

        Thank you for replying, I forgot to check earlier 🙂 I see, i’ll check out the other posts but now I have a good basic idea of how much you use!

        Liked by 1 person

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