IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

“Hydrating Elixir” Serum with Hyaluronic Acid

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Hello Hello! 😀 Today I share one of my last experiments in the home “lsab”. Where I live, we had days over 40°C, and I just wanted something that felt icy and refreshing. I decided to formulate a serum that behaves perfectly when stored in the fridge—though I always remind myself: even if it’s cold, THERE IS NO ESCAPE FROM PRESERVATIVES! 😀

This is an “upgraded” version of my basic Hyaluronic Acid gel. I wanted to include two salts that I usually can’t put in my lotions because my favorite polymeric emulsifiers are such picky divas when it comes to salts! But in a simple water-based serum, they are absolute stars.

The Formula I Used:

Water: to 100%
Sodium Hyaluronate (high molecular weight): 1%
Sodium Hyaluronate (low molecular weight): 0.5%
Sodium Lactate: 2%
Sodium PCA: 1%
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): 2.5%
D-Panthenol: 0.5%
Phenonip: 0.5%
Fragrance oil (Rock Candy): 0.2%

Notes from my Beaker:

The Hyaluronic “Fuss”: I measured out the water and poured the high molecular weight HA on top. Usually, I try to be patient and let it hydrate naturally, but I was in a rush! I used a stick blender which made it cloudy at first, but after a few days, it turned perfectly transparent. I did the same with the low molecular weight version right after.
The Humectant Boost: I added the Sodium Lactate and Sodium PCA next. Since these are naturally found in our skin (NMF), they make the serum feel so high-performing.
The Niacinamide Caution: I love using Vitamin B3 in the summer, but it’s so sensitive to pH. I measured mine and it was around 7.5, so I used a couple of drops of lactic acid to bring it down to pH 6.5. It’s essential to keep it in that neutral range!
A Touch of Pink: I added one drop of pink food colorant just to pamper myself. It wasn’t a necessity, but it looks so pretty in the bottle!
The Scent: I used a “Rock Candy” fragrance (the Rock Star dupe) and I absolutely LOVE it.

Final Verdict: I was a bit worried that with so many hygroscopic ingredients, it would feel sticky in the 40°C heat, but it’s not at all! I think the Niacinamide really helps with that. I only apply one drop and my skin feels unbelievably smooth. It’s the perfect “fridge treat” for the face. ENJOY! 🙂

I have added one drop of pink food colorant cause I like to pamper myself with colors. Was it a necessity? Nope.
The Fragrance Oil used in this Serum was Rock Candy from Sensory Perfection (the L**h dupe for “Rock Star”) and I LOVE IT! 🙂

How to Formulate a Solid Shampoo

Hello everyone! 🙂

Today I talk about how to formulate a Solid Shampoo.

Solid-State Detergent Theory (The Syndet Bar)

In this experimental session, I documented the formulation of a Solid Shampoo Bar. It is crucial to categorize this product as a Syndette, not a soap. While traditional soaps are produced through saponification, a Syndet is engineered using concentrated surfactants. My research objective was to manage the “Active Surfactant Matter” (ASM) to create a product that is both structurally solid and dermatologically mild.

The Formulation Challenge: Aggression vs. Concentration

A solid shampoo typically contains a massive surfactant load (55%–85%). While this makes the bar highly effective and travel-friendly, it presents two major hurdles for the formulator:

Production Cost: The raw material cost of concentrated surfactants is significantly higher than the fats used in soap-making.
Potential Irritancy: With such high active matter, the risk of skin aggression is extreme.

The Technical Strategy: Surfactant “Taming”

To mitigate the aggression of the ionic surfactants, I utilized two sophisticated strategies in my lab:

Complexation: Instead of a single surfactant, I created a “cocktail” of SLSA, SCI, and SCS. Mixing different surfactant head-groups creates smaller, milder micelles.
Incompatibility Theory: I intentionally introduced a Cationic Surfactant (Behentrimonium Chloride) into an Anionic system. While these are technically “incompatible,” the resulting interaction in a solid state significantly reduces the harshness of the wash.

Experimental Formula: Case Study #SYNDET-BAR-01

Phase	Component	% / grams	Function
A	SLSA / SCI / SCS	35.0 / 10.0 / 10.0	Primary Powder Surfactants
A	Cocamidopropyl Betaine	20.0	Amphoteric “Buffer” (Liquid)
B	Cocoa Butter / Argan Oil	7.0 / 3.0	Lipid Refatting Agents
B	Behentrimonium Chloride	10.0	Cationic Conditioning Agent
B	Cetearyl Alcohol	3.0	Structural Rheology Modifier
C	Fragrance Oil / Preservative	1.5 / 0.5	Aesthetics & Protection

Processing & Thermal Observations

The Melting Challenge: Melting pure powder surfactants is an arduous process. I’ve documented that the water content in the Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Phase A) acts as a necessary solvent to facilitate the transition to a paste.
Phase B Integration: I melted the butters, cationic conditioner, and cetearyl alcohol together. For future batches, I would recommend melting Phase B separately before adding it to the surfactant “cauldron” to ensure a smoother homogenization and a faster workflow.
Thermal Sensitivity: The “soapy paste” was allowed to cool to 35°C before integrating the fragrance and preservative to ensure their efficacy wasn’t compromised by the heat required to melt the SCI.
Setting & Curing: I utilized a Freezer-Set method for quick unmolding. However, I’ve noted that a 48-hour “drying” or curing period is required at room temperature to allow the bar to reach its final structural hardness.

Researcher Summary & Sensory Evaluation

The final bar exhibited excellent “wetting” ability and produced a sophisticated, dense lather of small bubbles.

Critical Refinement: Despite the high surfactant load, the 10% lipid phase (butters/oils) resulted in a slightly “waxy” after-feel on the hair. In my next experimental iteration, I will reduce the total lipid load to 5-7% to increase the “cleansing clarity” of the formula while maintaining enough emollience to keep the bar mild.

Simulgel EG test

My Experiments with Polymeric Emulsifiers – Simulgel EG

In this experimental session, I documented the performance and stability of Simulgel EG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80). This is a multi-functional liquid polymer that acts as both a thickener and a cold-process emulsifier. My research focused on its ability to stabilize varying lipid loads and its response to electrolyte stress.

Technical Specifications & Capabilities

Dual Functionality: It can be used as a stabilizer/thickener (0.5%–2%) post-emulsification or as a sole emulsifier (1%–5%).
Cold Process Efficiency: It is designed for room-temperature processing, though it remains stable up to 75°C.
Lipid Capacity: Theoretically capable of stabilizing up to 40% oils, including silicones, esters, and natural vegetable oils.
pH Stability: Optimal performance occurs between pH 5.5 and pH 11.

The Experimental Design: Lipid Load Variations

I conducted three controlled tests using a fixed concentration of 3% Simulgel EG while varying the lipid phase (sunflower oil):

Test Batch	Oil Concentration	Texture Observation	Skin Feel
A	5%	Gel-like / “Plastic” feel	Heavy / Non-fresh
B	10%	Stable cream-gel	Greasy
C	20%	Viscous emulsion	High occlusivity

Researcher Observation: Despite the “fresh” aesthetic of the gel-creams, the sensory profile was surprisingly heavy. This is likely due to the Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 in the polymer blend, coupled with the lack of a balanced “Grease-Fall” (I utilized a single oil for these diagnostic tests).

Processing: The “Phase Inversion” Method

Unlike traditional O/W emulsions where the oil is added to water, I utilized a specific cold-process protocol for these batches:

Phase B Dispersion: The Simulgel EG was added directly to the oil phase. Since the polymer is lipo-dispersible, this facilitates the swelling and “uncoiling” of the polymer chains once they contact water.
Aqueous Introduction: Phase A (Water) was poured into Phase B.
Homogenization: High-shear mixing (immersion mixer) was applied immediately to trigger the inversion and create a stable, glossy cream-gel.

Stress Testing: Electrolyte Sensitivity

Polymeric thickeners like Simulgel EG are notoriously sensitive to electrolytes (salts, proteins, acids). To quantify this, I introduced 1% Sodium Lactate to the 10% oil emulsion.

Result: Immediate and total loss of viscosity. The polymer “lattice” collapsed, returning the emulsion to a liquid state.
Formulation Solution: In my lab notes, I have recorded that to preserve viscosity in the presence of electrolytes, Simulgel EG must be paired with stabilizing gums (Xanthan or Guar).

Researcher Summary

Simulgel EG is an incredibly efficient tool for rapid, cold-process formulation, especially for batches involving heat-sensitive actives. However, it requires a strategic approach to lipids to avoid a “greasy” finish and a secondary rheology modifier (gums) if electrolytes like Sodium Lactate or Niacinamide are present in the formula.

Simulgel 1

Skin Structure

Skin Physiology — The Blueprint for Formulation

In my formulation research, the efficacy of any batch is determined by its interaction with the skin’s biological structure. To formulate effectively, we must understand the “Target Zone.” While most topically applied cosmetics only interact with the Epidermis, their role in supporting the barrier function is critical.

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1. The Epidermis: The Barrier Architecture

The Epidermis is a dynamic system of transformation. Keratinocytes are born in the deepest layer and migrate upward, undergoing a process of keratinization until they reach the surface.

Stratum Corneum (SC): The “Shield.” It consists of flattened, dead corneocytes that are constantly shedding.
Stratum Lucidum: A specialized, translucent layer found only on the palms and soles (high-friction areas).
Stratum Granulosum: The transition zone where cells begin to flatten and lose their nuclei.
Stratum Spinosum: The “Spinous” layer where proteins and lipids are synthesized to provide structural integrity.
Stratum Basale (Basal Layer): The site of cell birth. This layer also houses Melanocytes (pigment), Langerhans cells (immunity), and Merkel cells (touch).

2. The “Bricks and Mortar” Model

In the Stratum Corneum, cells follow a specific structural theory often referred to as the “Bricks and Mortar” model.

- The Bricks (Corneocytes): These flat cells are held together by Corneodesmosomes—strong protein “strings.”
- The Mortar (Lipid Matrix): A pool of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids that makes the skin water-resistant.
- Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF): Inside the corneocytes sits a mixture of hygroscopic compounds (Urea, Lactic Acid, Amino Acids). In my lab notes, I prioritize ingredients that mimic the NMF to attract and bind water to the skin.

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3. The Dermis: The Support Matrix

The Dermis provides the structural “scaffolding” and nutrient supply for the skin.

The Extracellular Matrix: A “cushion” containing Collagen (strength), Elastin (elasticity), and Glycosaminoglycans (like Hyaluronic Acid).
Fibroblasts: The “builders” that produce these fibers.
The Glandular System: Including sebaceous glands (sebum production) and sweat glands.

Researcher Observation: Most cosmetic formulations are designed to support the Epidermis. When we add Hyaluronic Acid or Ceramides, we are essentially reinforcing the “Mortar” or the “NMF” of the Stratum Corneum to prevent Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).

The pH talk

The Critical Role of pH in Formulation Stability

In my formulation studies, measuring and adjusting the potential of Hydrogen (pH) is the most vital step in ensuring both the safety of the user and the chemical integrity of the ingredients. pH is a logarithmic measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions ( $$H^+$$ ) in an aqueous solution, defined by the formula:

pH = -\log[H^+]

The Two Perspectives of pH Management

1. The Biological Perspective: The Acid Mantle

Human skin physiologically maintains a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. This acidic environment supports the “Acid Mantle”—a protective film composed of lipids and beneficial microorganisms (the skin microbiome).

The Risk of Imbalance: Using leave-on products with an alkaline pH (above 7) can disrupt this microbiome, leaving the skin vulnerable to pathogens and irritation. My records prioritize matching the product pH to the skin’s natural range whenever possible.

2. The Chemical Perspective: Ingredient Compatibility

Every cosmetic ingredient has a “Stability Window.” Stepping outside of this range doesn’t just reduce efficacy; it can lead to hazardous chemical transformations.

Performance Loss: High-molecular-weight Sodium Hyaluronate is sensitive to low pH environments (like those created by L-Ascorbic Acid). In acidic conditions, the polymer chains can degrade, essentially wasting the ingredient’s hydrating potential.
Chemical Transformation: Niacinamide requires a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. If formulated in an environment that is too acidic or too alkaline, it can hydrolyze into Nicotinic Acid. This can cause severe skin flushing and irritation.

Practical Measurement Protocols

Regardless of how many times I have executed a specific formula, my lab protocol requires a final pH verification. Changes in raw material suppliers or minor measurement variances can shift the final result.

Tools of the Trade

Digital pH Meters: These provide the highest precision (down to 0.01) but require regular calibration and maintenance.
Universal Indicator Strips: For most studio applications, multi-pad plastic strips are preferred over simple paper rolls, as they provide a more stable and readable color comparison.

Adjusting the Batch

If the final reading falls outside the target range, I adjust the batch using standardized solutions:

To Lower pH: A 20% Citric Acid or Lactic Acid solution.
To Raise pH: A 10% – 18% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) solution or a Triethanolamine (TEA) solution.

Researcher Summary

Respecting the pH is not optional in cosmetic science. It is a fundamental pillar of Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). Before utilizing any new active ingredient, I cross-reference its preferred pH range against all other components in the formula to ensure total compatibility.

strips

(Source: here)

Pearl Sensation – Face Wash Recipe

Lab Note: My “Pearl Sensation” Luxury Face Wash

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m obsessed with a texture. I wanted to create a face wash that felt like something you’d find in a high-end spa—something with that beautiful, silky, pearlescent glow that catches the light in the bottle.

I’ve made many face washes, but for this one, the challenge was to keep it super gentle for the skin while getting that “wow” visual effect. yeheee! 😀

The “Pearl” Strategy:

To get that shimmering look, I used a Pearlizing Agent (usually a mix of Glycol Distearate). But here’s what I noticed: if you use too much, it can make the wash feel “waxy.” I had to find the perfect balance so it stayed liquid and easy to rinse, but still looked like liquid silk.

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 3
Xanthan Gum (Transparent Version) – 0.4 (I used the transparent one so it wouldn’t cloud the “pearl” shimmer!)

Phase B (The Gentle Cleansing Trio):

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 10 (My favorite for a soft, skin-friendly clean.)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 8
Coco-Glucoside – 2
Pearlizing Wax (Euperlan PK 771) – 3 (This is where the “Sensation” comes from!)

Phase C (The Finishing Touches):

Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins – 1 (To match the name! 😉 )
Preservative (According to the type I have)
Lactic Acid (To bring the pH to 5.5)
Fragrance (I used a very soft “Baby Powder” and “Cotton” scent—it feels so clean!)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Visual Magic: I noticed that the “pearl” effect doesn’t show up immediately. When the mixture is hot or just freshly stirred, it looks a bit “blah.” But as it cools and the surfactants settle, the shimmering “waves” start to appear. It’s so satisfying to watch!
No Bubbles Please: Just like my other washes, I stirred this very slowly. If I incorporate too much air, the bubbles get trapped in the pearlescent “silk” and it looks messy. Patience is key! 😀
The pH Density: I found that when I hit pH 5.5, the Sarcosinate and the Pearlizing agent work together to get the perfect density. It’s not too liquid, not too thick—it’s just right for a pump bottle.
Gentleness Check: Even with the “fancy” look, I kept the ASM (Active Surfactant Matter) low. My skin didn’t feel tight or “squeaky” afterward, just very soft.

Final Verdict: This is definitely the prettiest thing on my bathroom shelf right now. It’s gentle, it’s shimmering, and it makes washing my face feel like a little luxury every morning. ENJOY! 😀

Spring Hydrating and Multivit – Face Cream

My “Multivit” Spring Hydrating Cream

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m so happy to share my recipe for a “skin-awakening” cream. I made this specifically for the transition into Spring. During winter, my skin always ends up looking a bit dull and “tired,” so I wanted something light, super hydrating, and packed with vitamins to bring back that healthy glow! yeheee!

The Vitamin Cocktail:

I didn’t want a heavy, occlusive cream; I wanted a “water-bomb” effect. I used a combination of Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) for healing, Vitamin E for protection, and a touch of Vitamin C (the stable version!) to brighten things up. It’s like a fresh smoothie for the face!

The Formula:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 3
Xanthan Gum 0.2
Hyaluronic Acid (1% solution) – 5 (This is the secret for that “plump” Spring skin!)

Phase B:

Emulsifier (I used Olivem 1000) – 4 (I lowered it slightly from 5 to 4 to keep it lighter for the warmer weather.)
Rice Bran Oil – 3 (Very light and full of antioxidants.)
Jojoba Oil – 2
Ethylhexyl Stearate – 3 (This is a very fast-spreading “dry” oil that helps the cream absorb in seconds!)

Phase C (The Vitamin Boost):

Panthenol (B5) – 1
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) – 1
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) – 0.5 (This stable version of Vitamin C is great because it doesn’t irritate the skin as much!)
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – 2 (My absolute favorite for refining pores and evening out the skin tone.)
Preservative (According to your type)
Fragrance (I used a “Green Tea and Lemon” scent—it smells so fresh! :D)

Notes from the Beaker:

The Niacinamide Trick: I make sure to dissolve the Niacinamide in a tiny bit of water from Phase A before adding it at the end. If the pH of your cream is too low (below 5), Niacinamide can get “angry” and turn into nicotinic acid, which makes your face flush red! So I always check that the pH is exactly 5.5.
Lightness is Key: Since this is for Spring, I used more “dry” emollients. If you feel like it’s still too heavy, you can swap the Jojoba for more Rice Bran oil.
The Glow: The combination of Vitamin C and Hyaluronic acid gives an immediate brightness. It doesn’t hide imperfections; it just makes the skin look “awake.”
Heating: Usual drill! Heat A and B to 70°C, then combine. Wait until it’s below 40°C before adding all those precious vitamins in Phase C, or the heat might destroy them!

Final Verdict: I’ve been using this for a week and my skin feels so much more resilient. It’s the perfect “reset” button after a long, cold winter. ENJOY! 😀

The Formula I Used:

Notes from my Beaker:

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Solid-State Detergent Theory (The Syndet Bar)

The Formulation Challenge: Aggression vs. Concentration

The Technical Strategy: Surfactant “Taming”

Experimental Formula: Case Study #SYNDET-BAR-01

Processing & Thermal Observations

Researcher Summary & Sensory Evaluation

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My Experiments with Polymeric Emulsifiers – Simulgel EG

The Experimental Design: Lipid Load Variations

Processing: The “Phase Inversion” Method

Stress Testing: Electrolyte Sensitivity

Researcher Summary

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Skin Physiology — The Blueprint for Formulation

1. The Epidermis: The Barrier Architecture

2. The “Bricks and Mortar” Model

3. The Dermis: The Support Matrix

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The Critical Role of pH in Formulation Stability

The Two Perspectives of pH Management

1. The Biological Perspective: The Acid Mantle

2. The Chemical Perspective: Ingredient Compatibility

Practical Measurement Protocols

Tools of the Trade

Adjusting the Batch

Researcher Summary

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Lab Note: My “Pearl Sensation” Luxury Face Wash

The “Pearl” Strategy:

The Formula for my Experiment:

Notes from my Beaker:

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My “Multivit” Spring Hydrating Cream

The Vitamin Cocktail:

The Formula:

Notes from the Beaker:

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