Recipe – Page 2 – IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

Aloe Vera Face Cream DIY

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In this experiment I tried to formulat a soothing, matte-finish cream designed for skin that is no longer in an active acne phase but remains sensitive and prone to congestion. I tried creating a “grease fall” that would use butters which don’t melt so easily and don’t spread on the skin like, let’s say, coconut butter.

The Technical Highlights

The “Dry” Lipid Profile (Grease Fall)

To achieve a matte finish and avoid a “heavy” skin feel, I utilized a strategic blend of lipids:

The “Dry” Butters: Kokum and Murumuru butters provide structural richness but possess a high stearic acid content, which leads to a “dryer” finish on the skin compared to Shea or Cocoa butter.
Non-Comedogenic Oils: Safflower, Black Currant, and Cranberry seed oils are high in linoleic acid. In my records, I prioritize these for acne-prone skin as they help balance the skin’s sebum composition.
Cetiol Sensoft: A lightweight synthetic ester used to enhance the “slip” and provide a professional, elegant texture without greasiness.

Phase	Component	% / grams	Function
A	Distilled Water	to 100	Solvent
A	Glycerin	4.0	Humectant
A	Xanthan Gum	0.25	Stabilizer
B	Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate	3.0	Emulsifier
B	Cetyl Alcohol	1.8	Co-emulsifier / Thickener
B	Kokum & Murumuru Butters	1.0 / 1.0	“Dry” Butters
B	Vitamin E / Cetiol Sensoft	0.5 / 0.5	Antioxidant / Emollient
C1	High-Linoleic Oil Blend	2.0	Nutrient Lipids (Cold Phase)
C1	Bisabolol	0.5	Soothing Active
C2	Hyaluronic Acid (1% Gel)	3.0	Hydration
C2	D-Panthenol / Allantoin	1.0 / 0.4	Healing / Anti-irritant
C2	Silk Hydrolyzed Proteins	2.6	Conditioning
C2	Aloe Vera Powder (200:1)	0.5	Concentrated Soothing
D	Preservative / Fragrance	1.0 / q.s.	Protection / Aesthetic

Notes from my Beaker:

The Aloe Choice: I used a high-quality Aloe Vera juice/gel. You have to be careful with Aloe because if you use the “ready-made” gels from the store, they already have thickeners in them that can mess up your emulsion. I prefer the liquid version so I can control the texture myself.
The Emulsion: I heated Phase A and Phase B to about 70°C. When I combined them, I used my mini-mixer for a few minutes until it turned into a beautiful, snowy white cream. It’s so satisfying to watch it thicken as it cools!
The pH Check: As always, I made sure to check the pH once it cooled down. Keeping it at 5.5 is the “sweet spot” for my skin to stay happy and the barrier to stay strong.
The Feel: This cream has a “velvet” finish. It sinks in quickly but you can still feel that the Aloe is there, keeping the skin hydrated and plump.

Final Verdict: This has become my go-to “emergency” cream for whenever my skin feels a bit sensitized. It’s simple, it’s cooling, and it works! It’s amazing what a difference a good amount of Aloe can make. ENJOY! 😀

Q10 Antioxidant Face Cream DIY

Lab Note: My “Antioxidant Network” Experiment!

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am so excited to share an experiment that is a bit “brainy” but so cool! I call it the Antioxidant Network. Usually, we just pick one “hero” ingredient like Vitamin C, but I wanted to try something different. I wanted to build a team!

The idea is the Redox Theory—it’s like a relay race for your skin. When one antioxidant gets “tired” from fighting free radicals, the others step in to “recharge” it so the whole system keeps working. It’s synergy in a jar! yeheee! 😀

The Team Members:

Coenzyme Q10: The energy booster! It gives the cream a lovely yellow tint.
SAP (Vitamin C): I used Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate because it’s way less “grumpy” and irritating than pure Vitamin C.
Alpha-Lipoic Acid (0.5%): The “Universal” antioxidant. Warning: This stuff has a “Hell-Smell” of its own—it’s very sulfuric! I only used 0.5% because I wanted the benefits without smelling like a matchstick factory. 😛
Vitamin E: To protect the oils and the skin’s lipids.

The Emulsifier “Fuss”: Hitecream 3000

I played with Hitecream 3000 for this one. It’s a vegetable, protein-based emulsifier that’s supposed to be super skin-compatible. I used it at 7% on its own. It gave a stable cream, but next time I might drop it to 5% and add a bit of Cetyl Alcohol to make the texture feel a bit more “posh.”

The Formula I Used:

Phase A:

Distilled Water: to 100
Glycerin: 2.0
Carbopol Ultrez 21 / Xanthan: 0.3 / 0.2 (My hybrid gelling system!)

Phase B:

Hitecream 3000: 7.0
Kokum & Murumuru Butters: 1.5 / 1.0 (Love my dry butters!)
Dicaprylyl Ether: 1.5
Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0

Phase C (The Antioxidant Cold Phase):

Safflower & Ribes Nigrum Oils: 0.5 / 0.5
Q10 / Alpha-Lipoic Acid: 0.1 / 0.5

Phase D (The Finishing Touch):

SAP (Vitamin C): 1.0
Rose Water: 10.0 (To dissolve the SAP)
D-Panthenol / Preservative: 1.0 / q.s.

Notes from my Beaker:

The “No-Stir” Trick: For the Carbopol Ultrez 21, I just let it float on the water until it hydrated itself. No clumps, no stress! Then I added my Xanthan-Glycerin slurry.
Heat it Up: Hitecream needs to hit 70°C to wake up and start working.
The Cooling Phase: I was very careful here. I pre-dispersed the Q10 and that stinky Alpha-Lipoic acid in the cold oils (Phase C) and only added them when the cream was cool. I also dissolved the SAP in Rose Water before stirring it in.
The Look: The Q10 makes it a pale yellow, but I added one drop of food colorant just to make it look “fresh” and pretty on my vanity.

Final Verdict: The synergy between the SAP and the Q10 really made my skin look vibrant! Even with the slight “sulfur” hint from the Alpha-Lipoic acid, I really liked how this cream performed. It feels like a high-tech shield for the face! ENJOY! 🙂

Caffeine & Escin Eye Cream DIY

Lab Note: My “Dusty” Escin Eye Cream Experiment

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m looking back at a formula that required a very steady hand and a bit of patience. I wanted to create a treatment specifically for the delicate eye area, focusing on puffiness and those tired mornings. yeheee!

The star of this experiment was Escin (the active from Horse Chestnut). If you’ve worked with it, you know it’s a very fine, “dusty” powder that can be a bit of a diva to incorporate. But it’s so worth it for its ability to support microcirculation! I also included Caffeine to give the skin a little “wake-up call.”

The Formula I Used:

Phase A:

Distilled Water: to 100
Glycerin: 2.0
Caffeine: 0.5 (I dissolved this in the hot water phase)
Xanthan Gum: 0.2

Phase B (The Light Lipid Phase):

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 3.0 (My reliable emulsifier)
Cetyl Alcohol: 1.0 (Just a little for stability)
Argan Oil: 3.0 (Rich in Vitamin E but not too heavy)
Rice Bran Oil: 2.0
Shea Butter: 0.5 (Just a tiny touch for creaminess)

Phase C (The Active Cold Phase):

Escin: 1.0 (The “dusty” hero!)
Cornflower Water (Hydrolat): 10.0 (Soothing for the eyes)
D-Panthenol: 1.0
Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 0.5
Preservative: (According to my usual lab choice)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Caffeine Trick: I made sure to add the Caffeine to Phase A while the water was hot. It dissolves much better that way, so you don’t end up with any “crunchy” bits in your eye cream!
Handling the Escin: This was the trickiest part. Escin is very light and dusty. I found that pre-mixing it with the Cornflower Water in Phase C to create a smooth slurry made it much easier to fold into the emulsion without it flying everywhere!
The Texture: Because it’s for the eyes, I wanted it to be light. The combination of Argan and Rice Bran oil makes it sink in quickly so it doesn’t mess up my concealer later.
pH is Critical: For the eye area, I was extremely careful to check the pH. I kept it right at 6.0 to 6.5. Our eyes are much more sensitive to acidity than the rest of our face, so “neutral” is the way to go here.

Final Verdict: I’ve been using this in the mornings, and I really notice a difference in how “awake” my eyes look. The Escin and Caffeine duo is like a double espresso for the face! It’s a bit of a “picky” formula to make, but the results are so elegant. ENJOY! 😀

Hyaluronic Acid Serum for Problem Skin

Hello there! 😀

Lab Note: My “Problem Skin” Niacinamide Serum

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m looking back at a formula for a super simple but highly effective serum. I designed this one specifically for those “problematic skin” days—you know, when you have a bit of an oily T-zone, some mild blemishes, and maybe those annoying red marks left over from previous spots.

I have to remind myself: this isn’t a “magic cure” for serious acne. It’s just a helping hand to keep the skin hydrated and soothe that irritation. yeheee!

The Niacinamide “Trick”

The star here is Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). It’s a powerhouse for sebum and redness, but it has a secret: it’s a close friend of Nicotinic Acid. If the pH drops too low, the Niacinamide can turn into Nicotinic Acid, which causes flushing and burning—the exact opposite of “soothing!”

Because of this, I was incredibly “fussy” about the pH in my lab. My goal was a safe pH of 6–6.5. At the time, I was using the most reliable pH strips I could find, though a pH meter is definitely the “gold standard” for this!

The Formula I Used:

Water: to 100
Niacinamide: 4.0 (The blemish fighter)
Aloe Vera Powder (200:1): 0.5
Betaine (Trimethylglycine): 5.0 (The soothing powder—not the surfactant!)
Glycerin: 1.0
Sodium Hyaluronate: 0.9 (Used here as the “gelling agent” and for deep hydration)
Preservative: 1.0 (I used my Ecocert approved one)
Extras: A drop of green food-grade colorant and a hint of fragrance.

Notes from my Beaker:

The Base Mix: I started by dissolving the Aloe, Glycerin, Betaine, and preservative into the water.
The pH Balancing Act: This was the most important part. When I first measured the mix, the pH was a bit low (under 5.5). Since I didn’t want to play with Sodium Hydroxide that day, I used a clever trick: I added a tiny bit of SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate). It’s a stable Vitamin C that is quite alkaline, so it raised my pH perfectly into that 6–6.5 “safe zone” for the Niacinamide.
Adding the Active: Once the pH was stable, I stirred in the Niacinamide. And yes… I checked the pH again! You can never be too sure when you’re avoiding that Nicotinic Acid flush.
The “Patience” Test: I poured the Sodium Hyaluronate on top. Usually, you’re supposed to just “forget about it” for a day while it hydrates into a gel. But since I have zero patience :D, I hit it with a spatula and then my immersion mixer. It worked like a charm!
The Aesthetics: I added one drop of green colorant because it just felt “right” for a soothing aloe-based serum.

Final Verdict: Even though it was a bit of a “fuss” to keep the pH exactly right, the result was a serum that felt incredibly smooth. It didn’t feel sticky, and it really helped keep my T-zone in check without any of that scary flushing. ENJOY! 🙂

Babassu Body Cream – Recipe

Hello there! 😀

Lab Note: My “Smooth as Silk” Babassu & Shea Body Cream

Today I’m sharing a recipe for a rich body cream using a new emulsifier: Methyl Glucose Distearate. I’ve found the skin feel is even lighter than the “Sesquistearate” version, so I might start testing this for face creams too! yeheee!

For this body cream, I wanted it to feel luxurious but not greasy, so I chose Babassu Oil and Shea Butter, but balanced them with Dicaprylyl Ether to give it a nice “dry” finish.

The “Secret” Allantoin Trick:

I add Allantoin to almost everything because it’s so soothing and affordable. But it can be tricky to disperse! My secret? I found that it “melts” perfectly into Hydrolyzed Proteins. Now, I always pair them together in my Phase C—no more grainy creams! 😉

The Formula I Used:

Phase A (The Gel Base):

Water: to 100
Glycerin: 5.0
Xanthan Gum: 0.2
Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.4 (The “No-Stir” superstar!)

Phase B (The Precious Fats):

Methyl Glucose Distearate: 3.5 (The new emulsifier)
Cetyl Alcohol / Cetyl Palmitate: 0.8 / 0.7 (My thickening duo)
Shea Butter: 6.0
Babassu Oil: 8.0
Rose Hip Oil: 3.0
Dicaprylyl Ether: 3.0 (For that “dry” touch)

Phase C (The Active Finish):

Hydrolyzed Oat Proteins: 3.0
Allantoin: 0.4 (Pre-mixed into the proteins!)
Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0
Fragrance Oil: A few drops

Notes from my Beaker:

The Carbopol Ritual: I measured the Carbopol Ultrez 21 and just poured it on top of the water. Do not mix it! Just let it sit and hydrate slowly while it sits on the surface. After a few minutes, it looks like water with little whitish pieces—that’s perfect! It only becomes a gel once the pH hits 5.
The Emulsion: I heated Phase A and B to 70°C. I added the Xanthan-glycerin slurry to the water just before mixing. Then, I slowly poured Phase B into Phase A while stirring with a spatula.
The Mixer: Once they are combined, it’s time for the immersion mixer! It turns white and liquid, but the mixer is what makes the “magic” emulsification happen.
The Ice Bath: You cannot skip the cooling process or it might separate! I used an ice bath to speed things up, stirring for about 30 minutes until it reached room temperature.
The Finish: I added my Phase C (with my Allantoin-Protein mix!), checked the pH, and adjusted it to 5.5.
The Waiting Game: Because of the Cetyl Alcohol and Palmitate, the cream keeps thickening for 24-48 hours. I left it in the beaker covered with plastic wrap for two days, stirring it every now and then, before finally putting it into jars.

Final Verdict: The texture is lovely! It’s rich because of the Shea and Babassu, but the new emulsifier and the Dicaprylyl Ether keep it from feeling “heavy.” And thanks to the protein trick, the Allantoin is perfectly smooth. ENJOY! 😀 😀 😀

Amla Power – DIY Spicy Shampoo

Lab Note: “Amla Power” Spicy Shampoo (The Poetic Effect!)

Hello Hello! 😀 Instead of trying to invent a “miracle anti-gravity” cream today, I decided to focus on something I really needed: a new shampoo!

I formulated this one for the “Autumn hair loss” season. I’m not saying I found a high-tech miracle cure—I’m not even sure those exist! Instead, I used a simple trick: Spicy Essential Oils to help stimulate blood circulation in the scalp. Plus, I added the “Prince” of Indian hair care: Amla Powder!

The Amla Legend

I bought this Amla in India. There, it’s believed to do everything: strengthen follicles, stop dandruff, prevent graying, and even straighten hair! Sips water. If you know me, you know I don’t blindly believe in miracles, but I love the history of Amla, so I added it for The Poetic Effect. 🙂

A Formulator’s Warning: Adding powders to shampoo is tricky! Unless your shampoo is super thick, the powder will eventually sink to the bottom. It can also mess with stability, so I used a higher level of preservative and made a small batch (100g) to be used quickly!

The Formula: Spicy Amla Power

Phase A:

Water: to 100
Amla Powder: 0.2 (For the poetry!)
Glycerin: 3.0
Inulin: 1.0 (For smoothing)
Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins: 2.5
Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0

Phase B (The Surfactant Base):

SLES: 25.0
Coco Glucoside / Glyceryl Oleate: 2.5
Decyl Glucoside: 2.5

Phase C (The “Spice” & Conditioning):

Polyquaternium 7: 2.0 (The conditioner)
EO of Cinnamon: 10 drops
EO of Cardamom: 5 drops
EO of Sweet Orange: 5 drops

Phase D (The Thickener):

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 10.0 (The key to the texture!)
pH adjusted to 4.5 with Citric Acid

Notes from my Beaker:

Dispersing the Amla: At first, the Amla powder just floated there, so I hit it with the immersion mixer until Phase A was uniform.
Surfactant Magic: I mixed the Phase B surfactants first. It’s always satisfying to see that thick, pearly density start to form!
One by One: I added the Phase C ingredients (Polyquat and oils) to the surfactants one at a time. I’m not very patient about bubbles :D, so there were a few, but that’s okay!
The Big Mix: I poured the watery Phase A into the thick Phase B very slowly. It became very liquid at first—but don’t panic!
The “Betaine Flip”: As soon as I added the Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Phase D), the whole thing became dense and thick like a real shampoo. It’s my favorite part of the process!

Final Verdict: It smells incredible—like a spicy tea for your head! My hair felt strong and the scalp felt “awake.” Just remember to shake it if the Amla starts to settle!

Winter Delight – Lip Rescue Balm

Hello there I AM BACK! 😀

Lab Note: The “Winter Delight” Lip Rescue (Lola’s Recipe!)

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am sharing what is truly the best lip balm recipe I have ever tried. This isn’t my invention—it was created by Lola, the founder of the forum where I learned so much of my formulation knowledge! I’ve been making this for over two years, so it is very well tested.

The Hydration Secret

Most lip balms are 100% oil and wax. We always hear that “Shea butter hydrates,” but actually, it doesn’t! 😀 Oils create a layer that stops water from leaving, but they don’t add any new water. Eventually, your lips still end up dry.

What makes this recipe special? It actually contains a water phase! By adding honey and glycerin, we are finally giving the lips real hydration. And the best part? The ingredients are extremely easy to find!

The Formula: Winter Delight

Oil Phase:

Beeswax: 20.0 (Use yellow virgin wax for the best scent! :D)
Rice Bran Oil: 45.0
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): 10.0
Vanillin: A tiny pinch (for that amazing aroma)

Water Phase:

Glycerin: 5.0
Honey: 20.0

Phase C:

Sweet Orange Essential Oil: 5 drops
[NEW 2026 UPDATE]: A lip-safe preservative (see notes below!)

Notes from my Beaker: The “Drop-by-Drop” Method

Modified Cold Cream: This recipe doesn’t use a traditional emulsifier. Instead, it uses the “mechanical” method. I heated the oil phase and water phase separately.
Patience is Key: Once the wax melted, I started adding the water phase DROP BY DROP into the oil. I had to stir constantly for about 30 minutes!
The Goal: I am trying to create tiny water droplets that get “trapped” and held in place as the beeswax cools and solidifies.
Spoon vs. Mixer: I tried using a mini-mixer this time, but it created too many bubbles (making it look very white). A simple spatula or spoon actually works better for a creamy, stable result. Lesson learned! 😀
Add the PRESERVATIVE
The Scent: The mix of honey, vanillin, and sweet orange is absolutely IRRESISTIBLE.

⚠️ SAFETY UPDATE: A Note on Preservatives

In the original version of this post, I mentioned that this recipe doesn’t need a preservative because the high sugar in the honey and the glycerin “occupy” the water. While that chemistry is true, I have updated my lab practice! Because we use our fingers to apply this from a tin, it’s very easy to introduce bacteria. For 100% peace of mind, I now strongly recommend adding a lip-safe or food-grade preservative. Safety first for those beautiful lips! 😀

Final Verdict: This is a creamy balm, so it won’t work in a twist-up stick—keep it in a little tin. It’s a total lifesaver for winter. ENJOY! 😀 😀 😀

The Technical Highlights

The “Dry” Lipid Profile (Grease Fall)

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: My “Antioxidant Network” Experiment!

The Team Members:

The Emulsifier “Fuss”: Hitecream 3000

The Formula I Used:

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: My “Dusty” Escin Eye Cream Experiment

The Formula I Used:

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: My “Problem Skin” Niacinamide Serum

The Niacinamide “Trick”

The Formula I Used:

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: My “Smooth as Silk” Babassu & Shea Body Cream

The “Secret” Allantoin Trick:

The Formula I Used:

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: “Amla Power” Spicy Shampoo (The Poetic Effect!)

The Amla Legend

The Formula: Spicy Amla Power

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: The “Winter Delight” Lip Rescue (Lola’s Recipe!)

The Hydration Secret

The Formula: Winter Delight

Notes from my Beaker: The “Drop-by-Drop” Method

⚠️ SAFETY UPDATE: A Note on Preservatives

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