Acne – IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

Aloe Vera Face Cream DIY

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

In this experiment I tried to formulat a soothing, matte-finish cream designed for skin that is no longer in an active acne phase but remains sensitive and prone to congestion. I tried creating a “grease fall” that would use butters which don’t melt so easily and don’t spread on the skin like, let’s say, coconut butter.

The Technical Highlights

The “Dry” Lipid Profile (Grease Fall)

To achieve a matte finish and avoid a “heavy” skin feel, I utilized a strategic blend of lipids:

The “Dry” Butters: Kokum and Murumuru butters provide structural richness but possess a high stearic acid content, which leads to a “dryer” finish on the skin compared to Shea or Cocoa butter.
Non-Comedogenic Oils: Safflower, Black Currant, and Cranberry seed oils are high in linoleic acid. In my records, I prioritize these for acne-prone skin as they help balance the skin’s sebum composition.
Cetiol Sensoft: A lightweight synthetic ester used to enhance the “slip” and provide a professional, elegant texture without greasiness.

Phase	Component	% / grams	Function
A	Distilled Water	to 100	Solvent
A	Glycerin	4.0	Humectant
A	Xanthan Gum	0.25	Stabilizer
B	Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate	3.0	Emulsifier
B	Cetyl Alcohol	1.8	Co-emulsifier / Thickener
B	Kokum & Murumuru Butters	1.0 / 1.0	“Dry” Butters
B	Vitamin E / Cetiol Sensoft	0.5 / 0.5	Antioxidant / Emollient
C1	High-Linoleic Oil Blend	2.0	Nutrient Lipids (Cold Phase)
C1	Bisabolol	0.5	Soothing Active
C2	Hyaluronic Acid (1% Gel)	3.0	Hydration
C2	D-Panthenol / Allantoin	1.0 / 0.4	Healing / Anti-irritant
C2	Silk Hydrolyzed Proteins	2.6	Conditioning
C2	Aloe Vera Powder (200:1)	0.5	Concentrated Soothing
D	Preservative / Fragrance	1.0 / q.s.	Protection / Aesthetic

Notes from my Beaker:

The Aloe Choice: I used a high-quality Aloe Vera juice/gel. You have to be careful with Aloe because if you use the “ready-made” gels from the store, they already have thickeners in them that can mess up your emulsion. I prefer the liquid version so I can control the texture myself.
The Emulsion: I heated Phase A and Phase B to about 70°C. When I combined them, I used my mini-mixer for a few minutes until it turned into a beautiful, snowy white cream. It’s so satisfying to watch it thicken as it cools!
The pH Check: As always, I made sure to check the pH once it cooled down. Keeping it at 5.5 is the “sweet spot” for my skin to stay happy and the barrier to stay strong.
The Feel: This cream has a “velvet” finish. It sinks in quickly but you can still feel that the Aloe is there, keeping the skin hydrated and plump.

Final Verdict: This has become my go-to “emergency” cream for whenever my skin feels a bit sensitized. It’s simple, it’s cooling, and it works! It’s amazing what a difference a good amount of Aloe can make. ENJOY! 😀

Hyaluronic Acid Serum for Problem Skin

Hello there! 😀

Lab Note: My “Problem Skin” Niacinamide Serum

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m looking back at a formula for a super simple but highly effective serum. I designed this one specifically for those “problematic skin” days—you know, when you have a bit of an oily T-zone, some mild blemishes, and maybe those annoying red marks left over from previous spots.

I have to remind myself: this isn’t a “magic cure” for serious acne. It’s just a helping hand to keep the skin hydrated and soothe that irritation. yeheee!

The Niacinamide “Trick”

The star here is Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). It’s a powerhouse for sebum and redness, but it has a secret: it’s a close friend of Nicotinic Acid. If the pH drops too low, the Niacinamide can turn into Nicotinic Acid, which causes flushing and burning—the exact opposite of “soothing!”

Because of this, I was incredibly “fussy” about the pH in my lab. My goal was a safe pH of 6–6.5. At the time, I was using the most reliable pH strips I could find, though a pH meter is definitely the “gold standard” for this!

The Formula I Used:

Water: to 100
Niacinamide: 4.0 (The blemish fighter)
Aloe Vera Powder (200:1): 0.5
Betaine (Trimethylglycine): 5.0 (The soothing powder—not the surfactant!)
Glycerin: 1.0
Sodium Hyaluronate: 0.9 (Used here as the “gelling agent” and for deep hydration)
Preservative: 1.0 (I used my Ecocert approved one)
Extras: A drop of green food-grade colorant and a hint of fragrance.

Notes from my Beaker:

The Base Mix: I started by dissolving the Aloe, Glycerin, Betaine, and preservative into the water.
The pH Balancing Act: This was the most important part. When I first measured the mix, the pH was a bit low (under 5.5). Since I didn’t want to play with Sodium Hydroxide that day, I used a clever trick: I added a tiny bit of SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate). It’s a stable Vitamin C that is quite alkaline, so it raised my pH perfectly into that 6–6.5 “safe zone” for the Niacinamide.
Adding the Active: Once the pH was stable, I stirred in the Niacinamide. And yes… I checked the pH again! You can never be too sure when you’re avoiding that Nicotinic Acid flush.
The “Patience” Test: I poured the Sodium Hyaluronate on top. Usually, you’re supposed to just “forget about it” for a day while it hydrates into a gel. But since I have zero patience :D, I hit it with a spatula and then my immersion mixer. It worked like a charm!
The Aesthetics: I added one drop of green colorant because it just felt “right” for a soothing aloe-based serum.

Final Verdict: Even though it was a bit of a “fuss” to keep the pH exactly right, the result was a serum that felt incredibly smooth. It didn’t feel sticky, and it really helped keep my T-zone in check without any of that scary flushing. ENJOY! 🙂

How to formulate a Face Wash – with Recipe

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Today I experimented on an “extra-mild” facial cleanser. My goal here was to build a balanced Surfactant Trio (Anionic, Amphoteric, and Non-Ionic) but keep the concentration low enough to respect a compromised skin barrier—especially for my skin, which tends to get acne when it’s irritated.

The ASM Calculation & My Surfactant Logic

To make sure this was as gentle as possible, I targeted a total ASM of 6.5%. Most store-bought face washes are 10–15%, so I knew this would be much softer.

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Anionic): My primary choice for a creamy lather. It’s so much milder than SLES or SLS.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Amphoteric): I included this to “buffer” the Sarcosinate. It helps stop the cleanser from being too aggressive on the skin.
Lauryl Glucoside (Non-Ionic): This completes the trio. It’s great for removing oily residues without causing irritation.

The Math (Validated against my 6.5% ASM target):

Sarcosinate 10g: $10 * 0.29 = 2.9g$
Betaine 6g: $6 * 0.32 = 1.92g$
Lauryl Glucoside 3g: $3 * 0.52 = 1.56g$
Total ASM: $6.38%$ (Perfect!)

My Formula: Mild Face Wash

Phase	Component	% / grams	Function
A	Distilled Water	to 100	Solvent
A	Glycerin	3.0	Humectant
A	Xanthan Gum	0.5	Thickener / Suspension
B	Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate	10.0	Primary Mild Anionic
B	Lauryl Glucoside	3.0	Non-Ionic Detergent
B	Lavender & Sage EOs	4 drops	Soothing / Antimicrobial
C	Cocamidopropyl Betaine	6.0	Amphoteric Buffer
C	Preservative & Lactic Acid	q.s.	Safety / pH Calibration

What I Noticed During the Process

Gelling the Water: Sarcosinate is notoriously hard to thicken! I used 0.5% Xanthan Gum to give it enough “body” so it wouldn’t just run off my hands.
The “Heat” Trick: My Lauryl Glucoside was a thick paste. I had to give it a quick warm-up in a water bath to liquefy it before mixing, otherwise, I would have ended up with “fish-eyes” (lumps) in my gel.
The “Slow-Mix” Rule: Sips water. I stayed away from the high-speed mixers. I just used a manual stirring motion because I didn’t want to turn my beaker into a bubble bath before I even finished!
The pH Moment: This is the most sensitive part. I used Lactic Acid to bring the pH down to 5.0.
- My Observation: At pH 5.5, the Sarcosinate reaches its best density. But I have to be careful—if the pH drops much lower than that, the whole structure can fail and turn back into a liquid mess, plus the betaine should never go below that pH!

Final Thoughts

For me, this face wash is the definition of “Less is More.” By getting rid of harsh alcohols and scrubs and using this low-ASM blend instead, I finally gave my skin some space to breathe.

Personal Observation: This formula was a real turning point for my skin. It really confirms my theory: cleaning the skin shouldn’t mean stripping the skin.

On Surfactants and Formulation (face wash, shampoo and shower gels)

Lab Notes: The ASM Reality

After spending so much time with surfactants, it’s clear that formulating a detergent isn’t about the volume of the bottle, but about the ASM (Active Surfactant Matter). It’s a core lesson: since raw surfactants are usually sold as solutions (mostly water), the only way to know the real “cleaning power” is to calculate the active part of the molecule.

What I’ve Learnt About ASM Targets

The ASM Protocol — Quantitative Detergent Design

In surfactant chemistry, we do not formulate based on the “volume of the bottle” but on the Active Surfactant Matter (ASM). Since raw surfactants are sold as aqueous solutions (e.g., 30% active matter and 70% water), we must calculate the true concentration of the “cleaning” part of the molecule to ensure safety and efficacy.

1. The ASM Target Reference

Before calculating, I define the target ASM based on the physiological needs of the area being cleansed. High ASM provides more “bubbles” and stripping power, while low ASM preserves the lipid barrier.

Product Type	Target ASM Range	Formulation Goal
Face / Intimate Wash	< 10%	Ultra-delicate; avoids stripping the acid mantle.
Shampoo	10% – 15%	High wetting ability; removes sebum/styling products.
Shower Gel	15% – 20%	Standard body cleansing; good foam volume.
Bubble Bath	20% – 25%+	Maximum foam stability; not intended for direct skin contact.

2. The Mathematical Approach: Solving for ASM

I utilize two primary methods in the lab to reach my target (e.g., a 18% ASM Shower Gel).

Method A: Quota Division (Precise)

I decide exactly what “share” each surfactant contributes to the total 18% and solve for the grams needed.

Sarcosinate (29% ASM): Quota 10% then I calculate: 10 $/ 0.29 = 34.48g$
Betaine (36% ASM): Quota 5% so: 5 / $0.36 = 13.88g$
Lauryl Glucoside (52% ASM): Quota 3% so: 3 / $0.52 = 5.76g$
Total ASM = 18%

Method B: Gram Estimation (Iterative)

I estimate the grams first and check the result against the target.

$40g { Sarcosinate}* 0.29 = 11.6g$
$15g { Betaine} * 0.36 = 5.4g$
$5g { Lauryl Glucoside} * 0.52 = 2.6$
Total ASM = 19.6% (Adjust grams downward to reach 18%).

3. Raw Material Profiles & Behavioral Notes

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Anionic – 29%): Eco-friendly and creamy. Viscosity is highly dependent on a pH of 5.0. It is sensitive to oils and fragrances, often requiring Xanthan Gum for stabilization.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Amphoteric – 30-38%): The “Buffer.” When paired with Anionics (like SLES), it creates a salt-thickening curve. It significantly reduces the irritation potential of harsher surfactants.
Lauryl Glucoside (Non-Ionic – 52%): A thick, cloudy paste. Excellent for thickening and skin-mildness, but requires gentle heating ( $40^\circ\text{C}$ – $50^\circ\text{C}$ ) to become workable.
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (Amphoteric – 38%): The “Baby” surfactant. Does not trigger the ocular sting reflex; ideal for “no-tears” formulations.

Researcher Summary

Calculating ASM is the only way to ensure reproducibility in the lab. By mastering this math, I can hopefully swap one surfactant for another (e.g., replacing SLES with a more eco-friendly Sarcosinate) while maintaining the exact same “strength” of the detergent.

Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe

Lab Note: The “Oil-Control” Spring Fluid

Hello Hello! 😀 With the spring days finally arriving, I wanted to formulate something light. This cream is specifically designed for oily skin that needs hydration without the weight. In fact, the oil percentage is so low it’s almost an “oil-free” cream!

The Oil-Control Duo:

Azeloglicine (6%): Pure Azelaic Acid is a nightmare to work with at home because it won’t dissolve in water or oil. Bingo! Azeloglicine is the answer. It’s a hydrophilic derivative that kills acne-causing bacteria and normalizes sebum.
Tiolisine Complex (2.5%): A sulfurated amino acid derivative that is a powerhouse for sebum-normalizing.

The Formula: Spring Oil-Control Fluid

Phase A (The Gel Base):

Water: to 100
Glycerin: 2.5
Xanthan Gum (Non-transparent): 0.11
Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.3

Phase B (The Light Oily Phase):

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 2.0 (Low % for a low-oil formula)
Cetyl Alcohol: 0.8 (Kept low to avoid a “waxy” feel)
Cetiol Sensoft: 1.5 (A very light synthetic oil for a smooth touch)
Evening Primrose Oil: 1.0
Hemp Oil: 0.5
Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0

Phase C1 (The “Dry” Finish):

Bisabolol: 0.5 (Soothing)
Dry Flo: 0.7 (Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate—for a matte finish!)

Phase C2 (The Actives):

Azeloglicine: 6.0
Tiolisine Complex: 2.5
Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0
Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0

Notes from my Beaker:

Consistency Matters: I intentionally made this a fluid lotion rather than a thick cream. For oily skin, thick textures can “feel” too rich or heavy. I prefer a light, milky fluid that sinks in immediately!
The Wax Factor: If you want it thicker, you could raise the Cetyl Alcohol to 1.5%, but I don’t recommend it for oily skin—it can start to feel like a wax layer on your face.
Active Power: Because Azeloglicine is water-soluble, it’s so much easier to incorporate into Phase C than trying to fight with pure Azelaic acid powder. It keeps the cream smooth and professional.

Final Verdict: This is my go-to when the weather gets warmer. It keeps the shine away while treating any little breakouts with the Tiolisine and Azeloglicine. It’s light, smooth, and fresh!

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😀 😀 😀

Formulating lotion: Phase C & ACTIVE INGREDIENTS- THEORY pt.6

My Lab Notes: Phase C—The “Cool Down” & Active Ingredients

Hello Hello! 😀

If Phase A and B are the “body” of my cream, then Phase C is the personality! This is the “Cool Down” phase where I add all the fun stuff, but it’s also the part that makes me the most nervous. Why? Because most of these ingredients are total divas—they hate heat!

The “Waiting Game” Protocol

Sips water. Patience is everything here. I’ve learned that I absolutely have to wait until my emulsion drops below 40°C. If I get impatient and add things too early, I’m basically just cooking my expensive actives!

My Checklist: I usually keep my total “active load” under 10% to make sure the emulsion stays stable and doesn’t get “cranky.”

1. The “Antioxidant Cocktail” Theory

I’ve been reading that it’s better to use a team of antioxidants rather than just one.

My Observation: Mixing Vitamin E (Tocopherol) with something like Resveratrol seems to create a much stronger defense. It’s like they protect each other while they protect the oils in my cream!

2. Acids & The pH Balance

I use things like Lactic or Citric acid to either exfoliate or just fix the pH.

Safety Note: My notes are very strict about this—if I use chemical exfoliants like Salicylic acid, those batches are for NIGHT USE ONLY. I don’t want to mess with photosensitivity!

3. Niacinamide: The “Flushing” Constraint

Niacinamide is a hero in my oily-skin research (I usually use 1–4%), but it has a very specific rule: pH 5.0 to 5.5. * The Risk: I’ve documented that if the pH goes too high or too low, it can turn into Nicotinic Acid. If that happens… PHEW! It can cause the skin to flush and turn red. Not what I’m going for! 😀

4. Soothing & The “Grit” Problem

I love adding Panthenol (B5) and Allantoin for that soothing feeling.

Lab Lesson: Allantoin is a tricky one! It only dissolves at 0.4%. I’ve had batches where I used too much and ended up with “grit” in the cream. It felt like a scrub instead of a lotion! Now I’m much more careful with my measurements.

5. Eye Area Experiments (The Caffeine Boost)

For my eye creams, I’ve been experimenting with Caffeine and Escin. They are fascinating because of their “vasoprotective” properties—basically trying to help with puffiness and drainage.

The “Reality Check” on Sourcing 😉

This is where my inner detective comes out. Marketing can be so deceptive!

The Q10 Case Study: Pure Coenzyme Q10 is a bright, intense yellow. Even at 0.1%, it turns the cream yellow.
My Thought: When I see a “Pure White” Q10 cream in a store, I just smile and shake my head. I know the concentration must be almost zero!
Check the SDS: I’ve learned to always check the Safety Data Sheet. “Liquid Q10” is often mostly filler with just a tiny bit of the real stuff. I want to know exactly what I’m putting in my beakers!

It really is a science, and every time I cool down a batch, I feel like I’m learning a new secret. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

Formulating a lotion: Fatty Acids and ACNE

This is a great base to work from. Let’s strip away the “lecture” feel and turn it into your personal lab journal. We’ll focus on the “Aha!” moments you had while studying—like realizing you were being overcharged for “exotic” oils that were actually just basic chemistry!

Here are your updated lab notes:

My Lab Notes: Fatty Acids & The “Marketing Trap”

Hello Hello! 😀

I’ve been digging deeper into the GREASE-FALL (my favorite way to balance fats!), and I realized I needed to understand what is actually inside my oils. I used to get so distracted by beautiful labels, but after looking at Fatty Acid Profiles, my whole perspective changed.

What I’m Learning About the Chemistry

I’ve started categorizing my fats by their structure rather than their name. It helps me predict how they’ll behave in a beaker:

Saturated Fats: (Like Stearic or Palmitic acid). These are the “solid” ones. I’ve noticed that if I use too much Stearic acid, I get that annoying “white-trail” when I rub the cream in.
PUFAs (The Liquids): These are the “Omega” oils. Because of their shape, they stay liquid and feel much “thinner” on the skin.

The “Marketing vs. Reality” Reality Check 😉

Sips water. This was a big “Aha!” moment for me. I realized that many “exotic” oils are almost identical to cheaper ones.

The Duplicate List: In my notes, I’ve found that Almond, Macadamia, and Hazelnut oils have nearly the same fatty acid profiles.
My Conclusion: Why pay triple for a fancy name? I’ve started cross-referencing the chemistry first. If the fatty acids match, the skin doesn’t care about the marketing story!

My Notes on Blemish-Prone Skin

This is a theory I’m really interested in for my experiments. I read that acne-prone skin often has “unbalanced” sebum—specifically, too much Oleic Acid and not enough Linoleic Acid.

The Risk: High Oleic acid might be why some “natural” oils feel like they clog my pores (keratinization).
My Experimental Strategy: When I’m formulating for this skin type, I try to build a “Grease-Fall” using oils high in PUFAs.

My “Oily-Theory” Team:

The Oils: I’ve been reaching for Hemp, Grape seed, Safflower, or even simple Sunflower oil. They are rich in Linoleic acid and feel much “lighter.”
The Butters: I keep these very low (maybe 0.5%). I’ve been experimenting with Murumuru or Tucuma instead of Shea, because they seem to have a profile that works better for my oily-skin experiments.

At the end of the day, I’ve realized that a “miracle” oil is just a collection of fatty acids. Once I understand the profile, I can stop guessing and start formulating with intention. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

The Technical Highlights

The “Dry” Lipid Profile (Grease Fall)

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: My “Problem Skin” Niacinamide Serum

The Niacinamide “Trick”

The Formula I Used:

Notes from my Beaker:

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The ASM Calculation & My Surfactant Logic

My Formula: Mild Face Wash

What I Noticed During the Process

Final Thoughts

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Lab Notes: The ASM Reality

What I’ve Learnt About ASM Targets

The ASM Protocol — Quantitative Detergent Design

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Lab Note: The “Oil-Control” Spring Fluid

The Oil-Control Duo:

The Formula: Spring Oil-Control Fluid

Notes from my Beaker:

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My Lab Notes: Phase C—The “Cool Down” & Active Ingredients

The “Waiting Game” Protocol

1. The “Antioxidant Cocktail” Theory

2. Acids & The pH Balance

3. Niacinamide: The “Flushing” Constraint

4. Soothing & The “Grit” Problem

5. Eye Area Experiments (The Caffeine Boost)

**The “Reality Check” on Sourcing 😉 **

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My Lab Notes: Fatty Acids & The “Marketing Trap”

What I’m Learning About the Chemistry

**The “Marketing vs. Reality” Reality Check 😉 **

My Notes on Blemish-Prone Skin

My “Oily-Theory” Team:

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The “Reality Check” on Sourcing 😉

The “Marketing vs. Reality” Reality Check 😉