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For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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Hello everyone!
Continue reading Smooth Away Face Cream
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
In my formulation studies, water is the most voluminous and technically volatile component. Because water supports microbial life, its purity and the logic behind its calculation are the primary safeguards for a stable product.
The choice of water is not negotiable. Standard tap water contains minerals (electrolytes) and metal ions that can destabilize emulsions and deactivate preservatives.
Demineralized Water: Free of minerals that interfere with electrolyte-sensitive ingredients (like Carbomers or specific emulsifiers).
Microbiologically Pure Water: Required to ensure we aren’t introducing bacteria or fungal spores into the batch.
The “Boil and Hold” Protocol: If commercially distilled, sterile water is unavailable, I utilize a high-heat mitigation strategy. I boil demineralized water for at least 20 minutes to reduce the bio-burden. This does not guarantee 100% sterility, but it significantly increases the efficacy of the final preserving system.
When executing heated emulsions, I often utilize the Heat and Hold technique. This involves maintaining both Phase A (Aqueous) and Phase B (Lipid) at 70°C–75°C for 20 minutes.
Objective: To ensure all high-melting-point waxes are fully integrated and to provide a secondary thermal “kill step” for potential pathogens in the water phase.
In professional formulation, we work exclusively in Percentages (%). This ensures that the concentration of active ingredients and preservatives remains constant, regardless of the batch size or substitutions.
By listing water as “Water to 100,” we treat it as a flexible solvent. If I decide to increase an active ingredient from 1% to 2%, I do not reduce my preservative; I simply reduce the water. This maintains the integrity of the chemical ratios.
Example Calculation: If a formula requires:
Gelling Agent: 1.5%
Preservative: 0.5%
Actives: 3.0%
The math follows:
If I substitute a gelling agent that requires 3.5% for the same viscosity, the math updates automatically:
Result: The preservative remains at exactly 0.5% of the total mass, ensuring the product remains safe.
“Water to 100” is the language of the cosmetic chemist. It allows for agility in the lab—permitting substitutions and adjustments without compromising the safety or performance of the final cosmetic. Remember: Where there is water, there must be a preservative.
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
So here we are, with the third part of he “Can you recognize a good Shampoo” posts! (you can check pt.1 and pt.2).
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
Hello Hello! 😀 Following our session on SLES and Betaine, it is time to look at another very common surfactant combination: The Glucosides.
If you see these ingredients in an INCI, you are likely looking at a “Bio” or “Eco-friendly” shampoo. Glucosides are Non-Ionic surfactants, meaning they carry no electrical charge. They are prized in green chemistry because they are usually easily biodegradable and derived from natural sources.
Lauryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Coco Glucoside
Caprylyl/Capric Glucoside (A particularly good solubilizer for oils)
It is important to remember: a “gentle” surfactant doesn’t automatically mean a gentle shampoo! A poorly formulated glucoside shampoo can still be aggressive, just as a well-formulated SLES shampoo can be very mild.
However, because they are non-ionic, they are generally less irritating to the scalp and are the “gold standard” for baby products and sensitive skin. The trade-off? They are less conditioning than the SLES+Betaine combo. A good formulator will compensate for this by adding extra conditioning agents or proteins.
Water, Decyl Glucoside, Cocoglucoside, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, [Extracts], Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate...
Analysis: This is a very well-thought-out formula. Using two different glucosides followed by Betaine and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate creates a “surfactant cocktail.” The more surfactants you blend, the milder the result usually is. It looks like a very gentle, high-quality formulation!
Water, Disodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, [Extracts]...
Analysis: Very simple and very green. All these surfactants are easily biodegradable and mild. However, notice the lack of conditioning agents. While “clean,” this shampoo might lack the wetting ability needed for thick hair and could leave it feeling a bit tangled.
Aqua, Coco Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate...
Analysis: Here, Glyceryl Oleate is added specifically to “re-fat” the hair and make the wash even milder. You also see many essential oils (Tea Tree, Rosemary) added for sebum regulation. While honey is listed (great for label appeal!), its actual effect in a wash-off product is likely minimal compared to the surfactants.
| Feature | Glucoside-Based Shampoos |
| Sustainability | High (Easily biodegradable) |
| Charge | Non-Ionic (No charge) |
| Skin Feel | Very low irritation, good for delicate scalps |
| Formulation | Often more expensive/difficult to thicken than SLES |
| Best For | Babies, eco-conscious consumers, very sensitive scalps |
Interestingly, I have yet to find a “terrible” INCI that uses a glucoside base—usually, if a company is spending the money on these surfactants, they are also putting effort into the rest of the balance!
Do you have a “Green” shampoo at home? Check the label and see if you can spot these glucosides! 😀
IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS 