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Emulium Mellifera

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

 

Q10EmuliumMelliferaCream

Lab Note: My “Intelligent” Face Cream (Emulium Mellifera)

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m playing with a very special emulsifier called Emulium Mellifera. I am obsessed with this because they call it an “intelligent” emulsifier. Why? Because it’s made from beeswax and jojoba wax and it actually senses the environment!

If you are in a hot, humid place, it creates a thin, breathable film so you don’t feel “sweaty.” But if you are in the cold, it changes to protect your skin from the wind. How cool is that? yeheee! 😀

The Formula:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 3

  • Xanthan Gum 0.2 (Just to keep the water phase stable)

Phase B:

  • Emulium Mellifera – 4 (This is our “smart” star! It makes the most beautiful, shiny white emulsion.)

  • Rice Bran Oil – 5 (I love this because it’s so light and full of gamma-oryzanol for the skin.)

  • Argan Oil – 3

  • Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides – 2 (To make it absorb fast)

  • Cetyl Alcohol – 0.5 (Just a tiny bit to give it more “body” without making it heavy)

Phase C (The Actives):

  • Sodium Hyaluronate (1% solution) – 3 (For that big drink of water for the skin!)

  • Hibiscus Extract – 2 (It’s like “nature’s botox”—I love the smoothing effect!)

  • Tocopherol – 1 (Vitamin E)

  • Preservative (Whatever you have in your lab)

  • Fragrance (Something fresh and clean!)

Notes from the Beaker:

  1. The Shiny Look: One thing I noticed with Mellifera is that the cream looks incredibly glossy. It’s not dull like some other natural emulsifiers. It looks very “luxury.”

  2. Heating: I heated Phase A and Phase B to 70°C. Make sure the Mellifera is completely melted into the oils before you combine them!

  3. The Cooling Phase: This emulsifier creates “lamellar structures” (basically layers of hydration). To get them to form perfectly, you need to stir consistently while it cools down. Don’t just leave it on the counter! 😉

  4. No “Soaping”: Unlike Olivem 1000, I found that this one doesn’t leave those annoying white streaks when you rub it in. It just disappears into the skin.

Final Verdict: This was the perfect cream for my travels or with a skin confused by the changing seasons. It’s light, it’s smart, and it makes my skin feel very pampered. ENJOY! 😀

Q10EmuliumMelliferaCream1

 

DIY Cucumber Wasabi Deodorant

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Cucumber Wasabi Deodorant 2

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am experimenting making something a bit… unusual. Yes, I am putting Wasabi in a deodorant!

The Secret Science:

I used Wasabi Extract (Wasabia Japonica) because it should be naturally antimicrobial, but I also added Triethyl Citrate. Here’s the trick: Bacteria under your arms try to eat your sweat and turn it into stinky fatty acids. But Triethyl Citrate “tricks” them—the bacteria eat it instead, and it lowers the pH so the “stink-makers” can’t grow. It’s so smart! yeheee!

The Formula:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 2

  • Xanthan Gum 0.5 (To make it a nice “roll-on” gel texture)

Phase B:

  • Alcohol Denat. (96°) – 15 (This helps it dry fast and kills bacteria on contact. If you have very sensitive skin, you can lower this to 10%.)

  • Triethyl Citrate – 5 (Our “stink-stopper” hero!)

  • Wasabi Extract – 2 (The antimicrobial star!)

  • Polysorbate 20 – 2 (This is the solubilizer—it helps the “oily” parts mix into the water phase.)

Phase C:

  • Zinc Ricinoleate – 2 (This literally “traps” odor molecules like a cage!)

  • Preservative (According to your type)

  • Essential Oils – 10 drops (I used Lemon and Eucalyptus for that super fresh, clean feeling!)

Notes from the Beaker:

  1. The Mix: I mixed the Xanthan Gum into the water first until I had a smooth, clear gel.

  2. The Alcohol Trick: I mixed the essential oils and the Triethyl Citrate into the Alcohol/Polysorbate first. This ensures you don’t get oily droplets floating on top of your water!

  3. The Smell: Don’t worry—you won’t smell like a sushi restaurant! The Wasabi extract I use is very mild, and once you add the Lemon and Eucalyptus, it just smells incredibly fresh.

  4. pH Check: You want this to be around pH 4.5 to 5. Bacteria hate acidity, so keeping it low helps the deodorant work even better!

Final Verdict: This is a life-saver for summer. It’s fresh, it’s liquid, and it doesn’t leave white marks on your favorite black t-shirt. It’s my “secret weapon” against the heat! ENJOY! 😀

Safe Handling of Cosmetic Ingredients

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Safe Handling of Cosmetic Ingredients.jpg

Safety Protocols and Chemical Handling in the Studio

In recent years, the availability of professional-grade cosmetic raw materials to independent formulators has grown exponentially. However, accessibility does not diminish the inherent risks. Being “at home” does not change the chemistry of the ingredients; many are highly concentrated, reactive, or toxic if mishandled.

In my lab, I treat formulation with the same gravity as industrial chemistry. Below are the safety standards and observations I document to mitigate risk.

1. Professional Storage Standards

Cosmetic ingredients should never be treated like kitchen staples. In my practice, I’ve established a strict storage protocol:

  • Containment: I never store ingredients in the original shipping bags if they are flimsy. I transfer materials to airtight glass or high-density plastic containers.

  • Labeling: Every container is marked with the INCI name, supplier, and expiry date.

  • Hazard Identification: For reactive solutions (like my 18% Sodium Hydroxide solution used for pH adjustment), I use high-visibility “DANGER” labels and safety symbols. These are kept in a locked, dedicated chemical cabinet, completely isolated from any living or food-prep areas.

2. The Microbiology Mandate (Preservation)

A common misconception in DIY circles is that “natural” means “safe without preservatives.” In my lab records, preservation is a mandatory safety requirement.

  • The Invisible Risk: Bacteria and mold (like Pseudomonas) are often invisible and odorless in the early stages of colonization.

  • The Consequences: Contaminated cosmetics are not just “spoiled”—they can lead to severe infections or permanent ocular damage. In my research, if a formula contains water, it must have a validated broad-spectrum preservation system.

3. GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices) in a Small-Scale Setting

While I work on a studio scale, I follow ISO 22716 (GMP) standards as closely as possible to ensure batch integrity:

  • Sanitization: All equipment, beakers, and packaging are wiped with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol and allowed sufficient contact time to sanitize.

  • Safety Gear: Goggles, gloves, and a lab vest are mandatory.

  • Environment: The formulation space is a “Clean Zone”—no pets, distractions, or unauthorized persons are permitted during a batch cycle.

  • Dedicated Equipment: My beakers and high-shear mixers are strictly for cosmetic use and never enter the kitchen.

4. Handling Reactive pH Modifiers

Working with extreme pH levels ($pH < 2$ or $pH > 12$) requires an understanding of chemical interactions.

  • Acids: These can cause protein hydrolysis, creating a necrotic barrier on the skin.

  • Alkalis (Bases): These are particularly dangerous as they saponify skin lipids, allowing the hydroxide ions to penetrate deeper into the tissue.

My Emergency Protocol:

In the event of accidental contact, I follow a 15-minute continuous rinse under running water and immediately seek medical consultation. Prevention through the use of safety goggles is my primary defense.

5. The Precision of Concentration

In formulation, “more” is rarely “better” and is often dangerous. I strictly adhere to the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) recommendations.

  • Efficiency vs. Waste: Using 0.1% Coenzyme Q10 is effective; using 1% is simply a waste of material that results in excessive staining.

  • Irritation Thresholds: Some ingredients, like Alpha-Bisabolol, are soothing at 0.5% but can become irritants if the concentration is doubled.

  • Crystallization: Exceeding the solubility limit of Allantoin (0.5%) causes sharp micro-crystals to form, which can physically abrade the skin upon application.

Final Observations

Cosmetic formulation is a rewarding science, but it carries real-world liabilities. My journey is built on continuous study, the use of professional formulation textbooks, and a profound respect for the chemicals I handle. Safety is the foundation of every successful batch.

“Hydrating Elixir” Serum with Hyaluronic Acid

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Lactate Serum 6

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I share one of my last experiments in the home “lsab”. Where I live, we had days over 40°C, and I just wanted something that felt icy and refreshing. I decided to formulate a serum that behaves perfectly when stored in the fridge—though I always remind myself: even if it’s cold, THERE IS NO ESCAPE FROM PRESERVATIVES! 😀

This is an “upgraded” version of my basic Hyaluronic Acid gel. I wanted to include two salts that I usually can’t put in my lotions because my favorite polymeric emulsifiers are such picky divas when it comes to salts! But in a simple water-based serum, they are absolute stars.

The Formula I Used:

  • Water: to 100%

  • Sodium Hyaluronate (high molecular weight): 1%

  • Sodium Hyaluronate (low molecular weight): 0.5%

  • Sodium Lactate: 2%

  • Sodium PCA: 1%

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): 2.5%

  • D-Panthenol: 0.5%

  • Phenonip: 0.5%

  • Fragrance oil (Rock Candy): 0.2%

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The Hyaluronic “Fuss”: I measured out the water and poured the high molecular weight HA on top. Usually, I try to be patient and let it hydrate naturally, but I was in a rush! I used a stick blender which made it cloudy at first, but after a few days, it turned perfectly transparent. I did the same with the low molecular weight version right after.

  2. The Humectant Boost: I added the Sodium Lactate and Sodium PCA next. Since these are naturally found in our skin (NMF), they make the serum feel so high-performing.

  3. The Niacinamide Caution: I love using Vitamin B3 in the summer, but it’s so sensitive to pH. I measured mine and it was around 7.5, so I used a couple of drops of lactic acid to bring it down to pH 6.5. It’s essential to keep it in that neutral range!

  4. A Touch of Pink: I added one drop of pink food colorant just to pamper myself. It wasn’t a necessity, but it looks so pretty in the bottle!

  5. The Scent: I used a “Rock Candy” fragrance (the Rock Star dupe) and I absolutely LOVE it.

Final Verdict: I was a bit worried that with so many hygroscopic ingredients, it would feel sticky in the 40°C heat, but it’s not at all! I think the Niacinamide really helps with that. I only apply one drop and my skin feels unbelievably smooth. It’s the perfect “fridge treat” for the face. ENJOY! 🙂

Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Lactate Serum 3

I have added one drop of pink food colorant cause I like to pamper myself with colors. Was it a necessity? Nope.
The Fragrance Oil used in this Serum was Rock Candy from Sensory Perfection (the L**h dupe for “Rock Star”) and I LOVE IT! 🙂

Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Lactate Serum 4

Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Lactate Serum

 

Simulgel EG test

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Experiments with Polymeric Emulsifiers – Simulgel EG

In this experimental session, I documented the performance and stability of Simulgel EG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80). This is a multi-functional liquid polymer that acts as both a thickener and a cold-process emulsifier. My research focused on its ability to stabilize varying lipid loads and its response to electrolyte stress.

Technical Specifications & Capabilities

  • Dual Functionality: It can be used as a stabilizer/thickener (0.5%–2%) post-emulsification or as a sole emulsifier (1%–5%).

     

  • Cold Process Efficiency: It is designed for room-temperature processing, though it remains stable up to 75°C.
  • Lipid Capacity: Theoretically capable of stabilizing up to 40% oils, including silicones, esters, and natural vegetable oils.
  • pH Stability: Optimal performance occurs between pH 5.5 and pH 11.

The Experimental Design: Lipid Load Variations

I conducted three controlled tests using a fixed concentration of 3% Simulgel EG while varying the lipid phase (sunflower oil):

Test Batch Oil Concentration Texture Observation Skin Feel
A 5% Gel-like / “Plastic” feel Heavy / Non-fresh
B 10% Stable cream-gel Greasy
C 20% Viscous emulsion High occlusivity

Researcher Observation: Despite the “fresh” aesthetic of the gel-creams, the sensory profile was surprisingly heavy. This is likely due to the Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 in the polymer blend, coupled with the lack of a balanced “Grease-Fall” (I utilized a single oil for these diagnostic tests).

Processing: The “Phase Inversion” Method

Unlike traditional O/W emulsions where the oil is added to water, I utilized a specific cold-process protocol for these batches:

  1. Phase B Dispersion: The Simulgel EG was added directly to the oil phase. Since the polymer is lipo-dispersible, this facilitates the swelling and “uncoiling” of the polymer chains once they contact water.
  2. Aqueous Introduction: Phase A (Water) was poured into Phase B.
  3. Homogenization: High-shear mixing (immersion mixer) was applied immediately to trigger the inversion and create a stable, glossy cream-gel.

Stress Testing: Electrolyte Sensitivity

Polymeric thickeners like Simulgel EG are notoriously sensitive to electrolytes (salts, proteins, acids). To quantify this, I introduced 1% Sodium Lactate to the 10% oil emulsion.

  • Result: Immediate and total loss of viscosity. The polymer “lattice” collapsed, returning the emulsion to a liquid state.
  • Formulation Solution: In my lab notes, I have recorded that to preserve viscosity in the presence of electrolytes, Simulgel EG must be paired with stabilizing gums (Xanthan or Guar).

Researcher Summary

Simulgel EG is an incredibly efficient tool for rapid, cold-process formulation, especially for batches involving heat-sensitive actives. However, it requires a strategic approach to lipids to avoid a “greasy” finish and a secondary rheology modifier (gums) if electrolytes like Sodium Lactate or Niacinamide are present in the formula.

Simulgel 1

Skin Structure

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Skin (layers, glands, vessels)

Skin Physiology — The Blueprint for Formulation

In my formulation research, the efficacy of any batch is determined by its interaction with the skin’s biological structure. To formulate effectively, we must understand the “Target Zone.” While most topically applied cosmetics only interact with the Epidermis, their role in supporting the barrier function is critical.

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1. The Epidermis: The Barrier Architecture

The Epidermis is a dynamic system of transformation. Keratinocytes are born in the deepest layer and migrate upward, undergoing a process of keratinization until they reach the surface.

  • Stratum Corneum (SC): The “Shield.” It consists of flattened, dead corneocytes that are constantly shedding.

  • Stratum Lucidum: A specialized, translucent layer found only on the palms and soles (high-friction areas).

  • Stratum Granulosum: The transition zone where cells begin to flatten and lose their nuclei.

  • Stratum Spinosum: The “Spinous” layer where proteins and lipids are synthesized to provide structural integrity.

  • Stratum Basale (Basal Layer): The site of cell birth. This layer also houses Melanocytes (pigment), Langerhans cells (immunity), and Merkel cells (touch).

2. The “Bricks and Mortar” Model

In the Stratum Corneum, cells follow a specific structural theory often referred to as the “Bricks and Mortar” model.

    • The Bricks (Corneocytes): These flat cells are held together by Corneodesmosomes—strong protein “strings.”

    • The Mortar (Lipid Matrix): A pool of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids that makes the skin water-resistant.

    • Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF): Inside the corneocytes sits a mixture of hygroscopic compounds (Urea, Lactic Acid, Amino Acids). In my lab notes, I prioritize ingredients that mimic the NMF to attract and bind water to the skin.

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3. The Dermis: The Support Matrix

The Dermis provides the structural “scaffolding” and nutrient supply for the skin.

  • The Extracellular Matrix: A “cushion” containing Collagen (strength), Elastin (elasticity), and Glycosaminoglycans (like Hyaluronic Acid).

  • Fibroblasts: The “builders” that produce these fibers.

  • The Glandular System: Including sebaceous glands (sebum production) and sweat glands.

Researcher Observation: Most cosmetic formulations are designed to support the Epidermis. When we add Hyaluronic Acid or Ceramides, we are essentially reinforcing the “Mortar” or the “NMF” of the Stratum Corneum to prevent Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).