In the future I will write a post on how to formulate deodorants, but for today I am simply writing the formula of the last roll-on deodorant I have made.
It is NOT an antiperspirant deodorant, because I didn’t want one: I wanted a formula for an everyday use deodorant: mild, simple, yet effective.
When we sweat, some enzymes and bacteria (usually Gram-positive) decompose our sweat and this is what causes bad odour. This is particularly true of areas, like armpits, where the pH of the skin is a little less acidic than usual.
There are different ways to counter this mechanism, and here are the two ingredients I have chosen for this formula:
- Triethyl Citrate – this ingredient creates a deodorizing reaction cycle:
– we apply it to our skin and we start to sweat
– enzymes and bacteria start to decompose the sweat and the triethyl citrate
– triethyl citrate gets hydrolized into ethanol and citric acid
– while ethanol evaporates, citric acid stays on our skin, lowering the pH
– by lowering the pH, the enzymes and bacteria stop working and this lowers the odour together with the decomposition of sweat
– slowly our skin buffers this pH change and rises it once again, the bacteria start to decompose sweat again… and the cycle continues until no more triethyl citrate is on our skin to be effective.
- Zinc Ricinoleate – this ingredient is the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid (which is found in castor oil). It is simply an odor-absorbing agent. The mechanism by which it works is not well understood, but if applied, it should lower the odour in 10 minutes time (obviously I don’t suggest you to use this deodorant on already smelly armpits 😉 always apply it on clean skin to make this deodorant work at its best).
[If you feel confused on where you are supposed to find these ingredients, HERE is a list of websites that sell cosmetic ingredients online]
Here is the FORMULA:
Water to 100%
Xanthan gum 0.5%
Triethyl Citrate 5%
Zinc Ricinoleate 3%
Vitamin E 0.2%
Oil (I used sunflower oil) 2.8%
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 3.5% (this is just my preferred choice for emulsifiers. You can substitute it with another one as long as it can be used in hot process)
Cetylstearic alcohol 0.75%
Fragrance oil 2% – I have used Cucumber Wasabi from Sensory Perfection. LOVE IT! It needs this much because the zinc ricinoleate “eats it”. This kinda made me question if I haven’t used it up by adding the fragrance (since I haven’t found the way of action of this ingredient in any more detail than what I wrote) but I didn’t want a fragrance-less deodorant so that’s it! I have added it. You could take the fragrance oil out of the picture if you wish.
1) Measure the Phase B and heat it up in a double boiler.
This is the first step because the zinc ricinoleate needs 80°C in order to melt properly. In the second picture you can see that it is still not melted properly. It will be melted properly only when the liquid will look completely homogeneous. After it looks homogeneous, leave the beaker in the double boiler still other 5 minutes, just to be sure!
2) Measure and heat up the Phase A. Just a simple note here: I add a small amount of water and the xanthan gum. Then I mix and add more water a little at a time to help the xanthan to not form lumps. If some lumps form anyway, don’t despair, they will mostly go with the mixing.
3) When both phases are at 80°C, pour the Phase B into the Phase A a little at a time and mix with an immersion mixer. When you are done it should look like this:
As you can see from the picture (or maybe not) it is still very liquid.
It will thicken up a little while it cools down and in a couple of days time as well. Keep stirring until cool down. After complete cool down, give it a quick mix with the immersion mixer again.
However, since this formula is for a roll-on, it is supposed to be a pourable lotion and not a thick one.
Now a few notes after the use of this recipe for few weeks.
Since I haven’t added any antiperspirant ingredient, I cannot say this is the most effective deodorant in the world. However, even if this wouldn’t be my go-to for a very stressful day (for example a job interview), this deodorant still does its job! 🙂
It’s a mild, effective solution for everyday use 🙂
Hope you enjoyed this recipe!
Do leave me a line 😉