This post is about one of my new favourite emulsifiers: Emulium Mellifera. The INCI is: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol. It is not a new emulsifier: in 2014 it won the In-Cosmetics Gold Innovation Award (btw, it is Ecocert approved 😉 ).
I have used it in many formulas now and I must say I have been quite impressed. The emulsions it makes leave a very light and, at the same time, velvety skin feel. Just to be specific: I used to struggle with light textured creams because they often made me feel like the cream was somehow “empty”: they would feel light, fresh and all, but after a short time from application, my skin would still feel quite thirsty. Well, this doesn’t happen with emulium mellifera: the skin feel is light, but the feeling is nourishing.
Enought blabbering: TO THE FORMULA!
Water to 100%
Glycerin – 2%
Xanthan gum smooth flow – 0.5%
Allantoin – 0.3%
Trimethylglycine – 3% (this ingredient is also called “Betaine” but it is NOT the “Cocamidopropyl Betaine” – just wanted to make this clear 😉 )
Emulium Mellifera – 3.5%
Cetyl Alcohol – 0.8%
Behenyl Alcohol – 0.7%
Murumuru Butter – 0.5%
Kokum Butter – 0.5%
Dycaprylyl Ether – 1.5%
Argan Oil – 2%
Q10 – 0.3%
Alpha-Bisabolol – 0.4%
Niacinamide – 5%
Hyaluronic Acid 1% Gel – 4%
Preservative: Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin – 1%
Fragrance oil – q.s. (Quantum Satis)
pH – As you already know from previous posts, the ingredient “Niacinamide” needs a stable and quite neutral pH, so in this case I have made sure the pH was 6.
Preservative – As you can see I have used “Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin”, you can use other preserving systems (keeping in mind that vitamin E, for instance, is NOT a preservative) but make sure that the pH 6 is compatible with the system you are using.
The HOW TO:
NOTE: for this post I have not taken pictures of the process, because it had become quite tedious to keep taking the same pictures over and over again. I have written many formulas of creams and lotions which follow the same steps and I have written posts about how to practically make an emulsion, so you can check the pictures there if this is the first post you read 😉 Thank you!
- Add Glycerin and Xanthan gum into a beaker. Slowly add the water to it (add a little water, stir until smooth, add a little water, stir until smooth, add a little water…). Eventually add all the ingredients of Phase A. Put it in a double boiler to start warming up.
- Measure the Phase B in a second beaker and add it to the double boiler.
- When both Phases reach 70°C slowly pour the Phase B into the Phase A mixing with an immersion mixer (same thing as a stick blender). Doing this in two or three takes would be best.
- When all looks homogeneous, keep mixing it a little more (just to be sure), then stop using the stick blender and keep stirring the cream with a spatula. At this stage the cream looks not too thick but very white.
- When the temperature is lower than 40°C, add the Phase C and eventually the Phase D. At this stage you can give it a quick mix with the stick blender again, just to be sure that the preserving system is well spread throughout the cream.
- Add the fragrance oil if you want to. As it is a face cream, I wouldn’t add more than a couple of drops.
This formula doesn’t really need any colorant as the Q10, which is in a quite high concentration, is already giving the cream a good yellow color! 🙂
Now a few words about this formula extra from the simple sensation given by the emulsifier: I must say that I am more and more in love with Niacinamide! It brightens the skin a little and it gives an overall healthy and fresh look!
Hope you enjoyed this formula, let me know if you have any questions 😉 Bye bye for now!