Theory – IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

The pH talk

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

The Critical Role of pH in Formulation Stability

In my formulation studies, measuring and adjusting the potential of Hydrogen (pH) is the most vital step in ensuring both the safety of the user and the chemical integrity of the ingredients. pH is a logarithmic measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions ( $$H^+$$ ) in an aqueous solution, defined by the formula:

pH = -\log[H^+]

The Two Perspectives of pH Management

1. The Biological Perspective: The Acid Mantle

Human skin physiologically maintains a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. This acidic environment supports the “Acid Mantle”—a protective film composed of lipids and beneficial microorganisms (the skin microbiome).

The Risk of Imbalance: Using leave-on products with an alkaline pH (above 7) can disrupt this microbiome, leaving the skin vulnerable to pathogens and irritation. My records prioritize matching the product pH to the skin’s natural range whenever possible.

2. The Chemical Perspective: Ingredient Compatibility

Every cosmetic ingredient has a “Stability Window.” Stepping outside of this range doesn’t just reduce efficacy; it can lead to hazardous chemical transformations.

Performance Loss: High-molecular-weight Sodium Hyaluronate is sensitive to low pH environments (like those created by L-Ascorbic Acid). In acidic conditions, the polymer chains can degrade, essentially wasting the ingredient’s hydrating potential.
Chemical Transformation: Niacinamide requires a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. If formulated in an environment that is too acidic or too alkaline, it can hydrolyze into Nicotinic Acid. This can cause severe skin flushing and irritation.

Practical Measurement Protocols

Regardless of how many times I have executed a specific formula, my lab protocol requires a final pH verification. Changes in raw material suppliers or minor measurement variances can shift the final result.

Tools of the Trade

Digital pH Meters: These provide the highest precision (down to 0.01) but require regular calibration and maintenance.
Universal Indicator Strips: For most studio applications, multi-pad plastic strips are preferred over simple paper rolls, as they provide a more stable and readable color comparison.

Adjusting the Batch

If the final reading falls outside the target range, I adjust the batch using standardized solutions:

To Lower pH: A 20% Citric Acid or Lactic Acid solution.
To Raise pH: A 10% – 18% Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) solution or a Triethanolamine (TEA) solution.

Researcher Summary

Respecting the pH is not optional in cosmetic science. It is a fundamental pillar of Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). Before utilizing any new active ingredient, I cross-reference its preferred pH range against all other components in the formula to ensure total compatibility.

strips

(Source: here)

Water in Cosmetic DIYs

Aqueous Phase Standards & The “Water to 100” Logic

In my formulation studies, water is the most voluminous and technically volatile component. Because water supports microbial life, its purity and the logic behind its calculation are the primary safeguards for a stable product.

1. The Purity Hierarchy: Beyond the Tap

The choice of water is not negotiable. Standard tap water contains minerals (electrolytes) and metal ions that can destabilize emulsions and deactivate preservatives.

Demineralized Water: Free of minerals that interfere with electrolyte-sensitive ingredients (like Carbomers or specific emulsifiers).
Microbiologically Pure Water: Required to ensure we aren’t introducing bacteria or fungal spores into the batch.
The “Boil and Hold” Protocol: If commercially distilled, sterile water is unavailable, I utilize a high-heat mitigation strategy. I boil demineralized water for at least 20 minutes to reduce the bio-burden. This does not guarantee 100% sterility, but it significantly increases the efficacy of the final preserving system.

2. The “Heat and Hold” Method

When executing heated emulsions, I often utilize the Heat and Hold technique. This involves maintaining both Phase A (Aqueous) and Phase B (Lipid) at 70°C–75°C for 20 minutes.

Objective: To ensure all high-melting-point waxes are fully integrated and to provide a secondary thermal “kill step” for potential pathogens in the water phase.

3. The Mathematical Protocol: “Water to 100”

In professional formulation, we work exclusively in Percentages (%). This ensures that the concentration of active ingredients and preservatives remains constant, regardless of the batch size or substitutions.

Why we calculate water last:

By listing water as “Water to 100,” we treat it as a flexible solvent. If I decide to increase an active ingredient from 1% to 2%, I do not reduce my preservative; I simply reduce the water. This maintains the integrity of the chemical ratios.

Example Calculation: If a formula requires:

Gelling Agent: 1.5%
Preservative: 0.5%
Actives: 3.0%

The math follows:

100 - (1.5 + 0.5 + 3.0) = 95.0% Water

If I substitute a gelling agent that requires 3.5% for the same viscosity, the math updates automatically:

100 - (3.5 + 0.5 + 3.0) = 93.0% Water

Result: The preservative remains at exactly 0.5% of the total mass, ensuring the product remains safe.

Researcher Summary

“Water to 100” is the language of the cosmetic chemist. It allows for agility in the lab—permitting substitutions and adjustments without compromising the safety or performance of the final cosmetic. Remember: Where there is water, there must be a preservative.

Silicones in cosmetics – the truth

Silicone Chemistry — Performance, Breathability, and Sustainability

In the modern cosmetic landscape, silicones (organosilicon compounds) are often misunderstood. My research objective was to evaluate these molecules based on their technical performance, their interaction with skin physiology, and their environmental impact.

1. Performance Theory: The “Velvet” Effect

Silicones are utilized in high-end formulations not because they are “cheap fillers,” but because they offer a unique sensory profile that natural oils cannot replicate.

Surface Tension: Silicones have very low surface tension, allowing them to spread easily and create a “dry-touch” silkiness.
Stability: Unlike natural vegetable oils, silicones are highly resistant to oxidation and heat, making them excellent carriers for chemical UV filters and pigments.
The “Illusion” of Health: While silicones provide an immediate smoothing effect, it is critical to distinguish between aesthetic improvement and biological hydration. Silicones do not “nourish” the skin; they provide a temporary protective and perfecting film.

2. The Breathability Myth: Pore Clogging (Comedogenicity)

The claim that silicones “suffocate” the skin is largely unsupported by molecular science.

Molecular Size: Most silicones are large, stable molecules that sit on top of the Stratum Corneum. Because of their unique “staggered” molecular structure, they are generally permeable to oxygen and water vapor.
Viscosity Variations: * Volatile Silicones (e.g., Cyclopentasiloxane): Evaporate quickly, leaving a weightless finish.
- Non-Volatile Silicones (e.g., Dimethicone): Heavier and more occlusive. While technically non-comedogenic, their “film-forming” nature can trap sweat or sebum underneath in certain skin types, which may lead to breakouts for individuals like myself.

3. The Sustainability Concern: Environmental Persistence

While silicones are safe for human topical application, their environmental “footprint” is significant.

Origin: Derived from Silica (Sand), not petroleum.
Biodegradability: The very stability that makes silicones excellent for formulation makes them problematic for the planet. They are largely non-biodegradable. Once washed down the drain, these molecules persist in the ecosystem for decades.
Researcher Stance: As formulators in 2026, we must weigh the aesthetic benefits of silicones against their long-term environmental persistence.

4. Hair Care: The “Build-Up” Phenomenon

In hair care, silicones function as high-performance conditioning agents.

The Benefit: They coat the hair shaft, smoothing the cuticle and reducing friction (easier combing).
The Downside: Over-use of heavy silicones can lead to “Build-Up,” where the layer becomes too thick, making the hair appear lank and heavy. In my formulas, I limit silicone inclusion to 1% to achieve “slip” without the weight.

Researcher Summary

Silicones are neither “miraculous” nor “dangerous.” They are sophisticated tools for texture manipulation. In medical settings, their stability and low allergenicity make them ideal for scar treatment and wound care. In cosmetics, they are the key to the “velvet” finish.

My Lab Philosophy: Use silicones intentionally for performance (e.g., in foundations or high-slip conditioners), but do not rely on them as a substitute for genuine skin-nourishing actives like Niacinamide, Panthenol, or Linoleic-rich oils.

Caffeine & Escin Eye Cream DIY

Lab Note: My “Dusty” Escin Eye Cream Experiment

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m looking back at a formula that required a very steady hand and a bit of patience. I wanted to create a treatment specifically for the delicate eye area, focusing on puffiness and those tired mornings. yeheee!

The star of this experiment was Escin (the active from Horse Chestnut). If you’ve worked with it, you know it’s a very fine, “dusty” powder that can be a bit of a diva to incorporate. But it’s so worth it for its ability to support microcirculation! I also included Caffeine to give the skin a little “wake-up call.”

The Formula I Used:

Phase A:

Distilled Water: to 100
Glycerin: 2.0
Caffeine: 0.5 (I dissolved this in the hot water phase)
Xanthan Gum: 0.2

Phase B (The Light Lipid Phase):

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 3.0 (My reliable emulsifier)
Cetyl Alcohol: 1.0 (Just a little for stability)
Argan Oil: 3.0 (Rich in Vitamin E but not too heavy)
Rice Bran Oil: 2.0
Shea Butter: 0.5 (Just a tiny touch for creaminess)

Phase C (The Active Cold Phase):

Escin: 1.0 (The “dusty” hero!)
Cornflower Water (Hydrolat): 10.0 (Soothing for the eyes)
D-Panthenol: 1.0
Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 0.5
Preservative: (According to my usual lab choice)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Caffeine Trick: I made sure to add the Caffeine to Phase A while the water was hot. It dissolves much better that way, so you don’t end up with any “crunchy” bits in your eye cream!
Handling the Escin: This was the trickiest part. Escin is very light and dusty. I found that pre-mixing it with the Cornflower Water in Phase C to create a smooth slurry made it much easier to fold into the emulsion without it flying everywhere!
The Texture: Because it’s for the eyes, I wanted it to be light. The combination of Argan and Rice Bran oil makes it sink in quickly so it doesn’t mess up my concealer later.
pH is Critical: For the eye area, I was extremely careful to check the pH. I kept it right at 6.0 to 6.5. Our eyes are much more sensitive to acidity than the rest of our face, so “neutral” is the way to go here.

Final Verdict: I’ve been using this in the mornings, and I really notice a difference in how “awake” my eyes look. The Escin and Caffeine duo is like a double espresso for the face! It’s a bit of a “picky” formula to make, but the results are so elegant. ENJOY! 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo pt.4

Hello there! 😀

This is finally the last chapter of the “Recognizing a good Shampoo” topic.
After the basics of shampoo surfactants in the part 1 and part 2 and in the last post (which you can find here) I talked about the most common “extra ingredients”.
I know I haven’t covered all the possible things but I did what I could 😀

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 4 — Useful Actives)

Hello Hello! :D To finish our journey through the shampoo bottle, we are looking at the “useful” ingredients—the actives that theoretically make a difference for your scalp and hair.

However, we must be realistic: a shampoo stays on your head for maybe a minute before it’s rinsed off. While these ingredients are great, they are often used at minimal amounts just to look good on the label. 😉 Here is what to look for!

1. The “Label Stars”: Vitamins & Hydrators

Panthenol (Vitamin B5): This is a famous one! It’s a humectant that helps hair retain water and creates a protective film. While it’s a great ingredient, don’t expect miracles from a shampoo alone since it barely has time to sink in.
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): A good antioxidant, but again, its effect in a wash-off product like shampoo is debatable. It’s often there more for “poetry” than performance! :D
Aloe Barbadensis: We hear so much about Aloe! It’s hydrating and soothing. Note: Some people are actually allergic to Aloe, so if you notice an itchy scalp after switching to an “Aloe shampoo,” that might be why!

2. Scalp Specialists: Dandruff & Oil

If you have a problematic scalp, look for these near the end of the INCI (usually used at ~1%):

Piroctone Olamine: A very effective ingredient for fighting dandruff.
Salicylic Acid: Often combined with Piroctone Olamine to help clear the scalp.

3. The “Energy” Boosters: Hair Growth Extracts

Take these with a pinch of salt! Hair loss is often genetic, and no shampoo is a “miracle cure.” However, these ingredients aim to improve scalp oxygenation and blood circulation:

Caffeine: Helps stimulate circulation in the scalp.
Arginine & Lysine: Amino acids that help repair hair and are thought to support growth.
Plant Extracts: Look for Ginkgo Biloba, Hops, Mallow, or Pumpkin Seed extract. They give the skin a little “energy,” but they aren’t magic!

4. My Favorite: Betaine (Trimethylglycine)

You know I love this one! :D Remember: this is NOT the surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Betaine). This is a humectant that makes detergents much milder.Pro Tip: If you find this ingredient near the beginning of the INCI (around 5%), you are almost certainly looking at a high-quality, mild shampoo.

Final Summary Table: Actives at a Glance

Ingredient	Primary Goal	Reality Check
Piroctone Olamine	Anti-Dandruff	Effective at ~1%
Caffeine / Arginine	Scalp Stimulation	May help, but not a “cure”
Panthenol	Hydration / Film	Good, but mostly marketing in shampoo
Trimethylglycine	Mildness	Great sign if high in the list!

That is it for our shampoo series! I hope you now feel like you have all the tools you need to choose the best product for your specific hair and scalp.

Have you spotted any of these “energy” ingredients on your favorite bottle? Let me know below! 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo? pt.3

So here we are, with the third part of he “Can you recognize a good Shampoo” posts! (you can check pt.1 and pt.2).

KEEP ON READING

Can you recognize a good shampoo? pt.2

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 2 — Glucosides)

Hello Hello! 😀 Following our session on SLES and Betaine, it is time to look at another very common surfactant combination: The Glucosides.

If you see these ingredients in an INCI, you are likely looking at a “Bio” or “Eco-friendly” shampoo. Glucosides are Non-Ionic surfactants, meaning they carry no electrical charge. They are prized in green chemistry because they are usually easily biodegradable and derived from natural sources.

Common Glucosides in the INCI:

Lauryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Coco Glucoside
Caprylyl/Capric Glucoside (A particularly good solubilizer for oils)

The “Gentle” Myth

It is important to remember: a “gentle” surfactant doesn’t automatically mean a gentle shampoo! A poorly formulated glucoside shampoo can still be aggressive, just as a well-formulated SLES shampoo can be very mild.

However, because they are non-ionic, they are generally less irritating to the scalp and are the “gold standard” for baby products and sensitive skin. The trade-off? They are less conditioning than the SLES+Betaine combo. A good formulator will compensate for this by adding extra conditioning agents or proteins.

INCI Case Studies: The Glucoside Base

Example 1: The Complex Herbal Blend

Water, Decyl Glucoside, Cocoglucoside, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, [Extracts], Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate...

Analysis: This is a very well-thought-out formula. Using two different glucosides followed by Betaine and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate creates a “surfactant cocktail.” The more surfactants you blend, the milder the result usually is. It looks like a very gentle, high-quality formulation!

Example 2: The “Minimalist” Eco-Shampoo

Water, Disodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, [Extracts]...

Analysis: Very simple and very green. All these surfactants are easily biodegradable and mild. However, notice the lack of conditioning agents. While “clean,” this shampoo might lack the wetting ability needed for thick hair and could leave it feeling a bit tangled.

Example 3: The Lipid-Enriched Formula

Aqua, Coco Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate...

Analysis: Here, Glyceryl Oleate is added specifically to “re-fat” the hair and make the wash even milder. You also see many essential oils (Tea Tree, Rosemary) added for sebum regulation. While honey is listed (great for label appeal!), its actual effect in a wash-off product is likely minimal compared to the surfactants.

Summary: Why Choose Glucosides?

Feature	Glucoside-Based Shampoos
Sustainability	High (Easily biodegradable)
Charge	Non-Ionic (No charge)
Skin Feel	Very low irritation, good for delicate scalps
Formulation	Often more expensive/difficult to thicken than SLES
Best For	Babies, eco-conscious consumers, very sensitive scalps

Interestingly, I have yet to find a “terrible” INCI that uses a glucoside base—usually, if a company is spending the money on these surfactants, they are also putting effort into the rest of the balance!

Do you have a “Green” shampoo at home? Check the label and see if you can spot these glucosides! 😀

The Critical Role of pH in Formulation Stability

The Two Perspectives of pH Management

1. The Biological Perspective: The Acid Mantle

2. The Chemical Perspective: Ingredient Compatibility

Practical Measurement Protocols

Tools of the Trade

Adjusting the Batch

Researcher Summary

Share this:

Aqueous Phase Standards & The “Water to 100” Logic

1. The Purity Hierarchy: Beyond the Tap

2. The “Heat and Hold” Method

3. The Mathematical Protocol: “Water to 100”

Why we calculate water last:

Researcher Summary

Share this:

Silicone Chemistry — Performance, Breathability, and Sustainability

1. Performance Theory: The “Velvet” Effect

2. The Breathability Myth: Pore Clogging (Comedogenicity)

3. The Sustainability Concern: Environmental Persistence

4. Hair Care: The “Build-Up” Phenomenon

Researcher Summary

Share this:

Lab Note: My “Dusty” Escin Eye Cream Experiment

The Formula I Used:

Notes from my Beaker:

Share this:

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 4 — Useful Actives)

1. The “Label Stars”: Vitamins & Hydrators

2. Scalp Specialists: Dandruff & Oil

3. The “Energy” Boosters: Hair Growth Extracts

4. My Favorite: Betaine (Trimethylglycine)

Final Summary Table: Actives at a Glance

Share this:

Share this:

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 2 — Glucosides)

Common Glucosides in the INCI:

The “Gentle” Myth

INCI Case Studies: The Glucoside Base

Example 1: The Complex Herbal Blend

Example 2: The “Minimalist” Eco-Shampoo

Example 3: The Lipid-Enriched Formula

Summary: Why Choose Glucosides?

Share this: