shampoo – IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

How to Formulate a Solid Shampoo

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Hello everyone! 🙂

Today I talk about how to formulate a Solid Shampoo.

Solid-State Detergent Theory (The Syndet Bar)

In this experimental session, I documented the formulation of a Solid Shampoo Bar. It is crucial to categorize this product as a Syndette, not a soap. While traditional soaps are produced through saponification, a Syndet is engineered using concentrated surfactants. My research objective was to manage the “Active Surfactant Matter” (ASM) to create a product that is both structurally solid and dermatologically mild.

The Formulation Challenge: Aggression vs. Concentration

A solid shampoo typically contains a massive surfactant load (55%–85%). While this makes the bar highly effective and travel-friendly, it presents two major hurdles for the formulator:

Production Cost: The raw material cost of concentrated surfactants is significantly higher than the fats used in soap-making.
Potential Irritancy: With such high active matter, the risk of skin aggression is extreme.

The Technical Strategy: Surfactant “Taming”

To mitigate the aggression of the ionic surfactants, I utilized two sophisticated strategies in my lab:

Complexation: Instead of a single surfactant, I created a “cocktail” of SLSA, SCI, and SCS. Mixing different surfactant head-groups creates smaller, milder micelles.
Incompatibility Theory: I intentionally introduced a Cationic Surfactant (Behentrimonium Chloride) into an Anionic system. While these are technically “incompatible,” the resulting interaction in a solid state significantly reduces the harshness of the wash.

Experimental Formula: Case Study #SYNDET-BAR-01

Phase	Component	% / grams	Function
A	SLSA / SCI / SCS	35.0 / 10.0 / 10.0	Primary Powder Surfactants
A	Cocamidopropyl Betaine	20.0	Amphoteric “Buffer” (Liquid)
B	Cocoa Butter / Argan Oil	7.0 / 3.0	Lipid Refatting Agents
B	Behentrimonium Chloride	10.0	Cationic Conditioning Agent
B	Cetearyl Alcohol	3.0	Structural Rheology Modifier
C	Fragrance Oil / Preservative	1.5 / 0.5	Aesthetics & Protection

Processing & Thermal Observations

The Melting Challenge: Melting pure powder surfactants is an arduous process. I’ve documented that the water content in the Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Phase A) acts as a necessary solvent to facilitate the transition to a paste.
Phase B Integration: I melted the butters, cationic conditioner, and cetearyl alcohol together. For future batches, I would recommend melting Phase B separately before adding it to the surfactant “cauldron” to ensure a smoother homogenization and a faster workflow.
Thermal Sensitivity: The “soapy paste” was allowed to cool to 35°C before integrating the fragrance and preservative to ensure their efficacy wasn’t compromised by the heat required to melt the SCI.
Setting & Curing: I utilized a Freezer-Set method for quick unmolding. However, I’ve noted that a 48-hour “drying” or curing period is required at room temperature to allow the bar to reach its final structural hardness.

Researcher Summary & Sensory Evaluation

The final bar exhibited excellent “wetting” ability and produced a sophisticated, dense lather of small bubbles.

Critical Refinement: Despite the high surfactant load, the 10% lipid phase (butters/oils) resulted in a slightly “waxy” after-feel on the hair. In my next experimental iteration, I will reduce the total lipid load to 5-7% to increase the “cleansing clarity” of the formula while maintaining enough emollience to keep the bar mild.

No-Drandruff Shampoo

Lab Note: My “No Dandruff” Scalp-Calming Shampoo

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am tackling something that is usually so annoying to deal with: dandruff! I got tired of the shampoos from the supermarket because they are so aggressive—they might kill the fungus, but they leave the scalp red and the hair feeling like straw. No thanks! 😛

I wanted to make a “Smart Shampoo.” Something that uses a real antifungal active but surrounds it with ingredients that actually soothe the skin and protect the hair.

The “Clear Scalp” Strategy:

The hero of my formula is Piroctone Olamine. Unlike the “Zinc” stuff you find in cheap shampoos, Piroctone Olamine is much more elegant—it’s very effective against the Malassezia fungus but it’s gentle. I also added Salicylic Acid to help “sweep away” the dead skin cells so the scalp can breathe again!

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 2
Polyquaternium-10 – 0.3 (This is a “conditioning” polymer—it helps the hair stay smooth even in a treatment shampoo!)

Phase B (The Cleansing Base):

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 15 (My favorite “soft” surfactant!)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 10
Coco-Glucoside – 5
Piroctone Olamine – 0.5 (The antifungal powerhouse!)

Phase C (The Calming Touch):

Salicylic Acid – 0.5 (I pre-dissolved this in the surfactants to make sure it didn’t stay “gritty”!)
Panthenol – 1 (To soothe the itchy scalp)
Preservative (According to my lab’s type)
Fragrance (I used Tea Tree and Lavender—Tea Tree helps the “No Dandruff” mission, and Lavender makes it smell like a spa! :D)
Lactic Acid (To reach pH 5.5)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Dissolving Trick: Piroctone Olamine and Salicylic Acid can be a bit stubborn. I found that if I mix them into the surfactant blend (Phase B) before adding the water, they dissolve much more easily. No one wants “grains” in their shampoo!
The pH is Critical: For Piroctone Olamine to be happy and stable, the pH needs to be around 5.5. If you go too low or too high, it might not work as well.
The Color: I left this one clear because I love how clean it looks. Without all the “fake blue” dyes of commercial shampoos, it looks so much more professional.
How I used it: Since this has an active medicine in it, I don’t just rinse it off immediately. I leave it on my scalp for about 3 minutes while I sing a song, then rinse! yeheee! 😀

Final Verdict: I don’t suffer of dandruff much but of itchiness sometimes I do, and this helped a lot 🙂

No SLES Shampoo DIY

My “No-SLES” Gentle Shampoo Experiment

Hello Hello! :D

I wanted something that felt sophisticated and gentle—a recipe that treats the scalp like skin rather than just “hair ground.” yeheee! :D
While I do not hate SLES at all and I find that they can be useful in many ways, at the same time I am trying something different because sometimes my scalp gets itchy by the aggressivness that a commercial SLES shampoo can carry. SLES shampoos are sometimes formulated poorly (maybe for keeping the costs low) and can therefore be too aggressive.

Here I have decided to experiment with a NON-SLES shampoo, simply to see what’s out there and what can be done differently.

The “Gentle” Strategy:

Instead of the usual SLES, I decided to play with a combination of Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and Glucosides. Sarcosinate is such a dream—it’s derived from an amino acid and it gives a beautiful, creamy foam without being a “bully” to the hair cuticle.

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 3
Polyquaternium-10 – 0.3 (I included this because it helps with the “combability”—no one likes bird-nest hair! :P)

Phase B (The Cleansing Blend):

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 12
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 8
Coco-Glucoside – 4
Lauryl Glucoside – 2 (This one is thick, so I had to be patient while mixing!)

Phase C:

Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins – 1 (For that “silk” touch I love!)
Panthenol – 0.5
Preservative (According to my lab’s setup)
Fragrance (I used a fresh, “Rain” scent—it feels so pure!)
Lactic Acid (To reach the “Golden pH” of 5.5)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Foam Surprise: I was actually worried that a No-SLES shampoo wouldn’t foam enough, but I was wrong! The Sarcosinate creates these tiny, dense bubbles that feel much more luxurious than the big, “air-filled” bubbles of cheap shampoos.
The pH is King: I was very careful to bring the pH down to 5.5. In my experience, this is the magic number for keeping the hair shiny and the scalp calm.
The Mixing Process: I mixed the surfactants together first before adding them to the water. I found that if I poured the water onto the surfactants, I ended up with way too many bubbles in the beaker. Slow and steady wins the race! :D
Scalp Feedback:

The most amazing thing happened when I checked the pH. I brought it down to 5.5 with Lactic Acid, and suddenly the texture became so beautiful and dense! I realized that you don’t need SLES to get a rich foam. The foam from the Sarcosinate is tiny and creamy—it feels like washing your hair with a cloud instead of a detergent.

I didn’t get any of that “squeaky” feeling that usually means the hair is dying for help. Instead, my scalp felt calm for the first time in weeks. It’s a huge win for me! However, to be fair, I don’t love the feeling in my hair, the wetting ability is not so good and so the search for the perfect shampoo is still open for me! Hope you enjoyed my experiments 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo? pt. 1

Theory: How to Read a Shampoo INCI (Ingredient List)

Hello Hello! 😀 Today’s session is about a superpower every formulator should have: the ability to recognize a good shampoo just by looking at the label!

The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the list of everything inside a product. They are listed in order of percentage, except for ingredients below 1%, which can be listed in any order at the end. While we can’t know the exact percentages, our knowledge of formulation helps us see if a product is well-balanced or just “poetry.”

The Three Rules of the Lab:

Bio-Realism: I am not a “biodegradable-nazi.” I prefer eco-friendly ingredients, but I look for overall balance rather than perfection.
Listen to Your Hair: If a shampoo gives you an itchy scalp or greasy hair, stop using it—even if the INCI looks “perfect” on paper!
The 1% Line: Often, expensive plant extracts are listed above preservatives just for “label appeal,” even if they are only present at 0.01%. Don’t be fooled!

Analyzing the Surfactants

Surfactants are the “magic” that creates foam. In most commercial shampoos, the primary family is Anionic (negative charge), like SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate). SLES is effective and conditioning, but it can be aggressive if used alone.

The Golden Ratio: SLES + CAPB

The most common combination is SLES + Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB). To make a shampoo mild, the CAPB should ideally be at least 1/3 of the amount of SLES.

A Good Sign: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine...
A Red Flag: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride... Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Note: If Sodium Chloride (salt) appears before the Betaine, it usually means the Betaine is too low (under 1-2%) to effectively buffer the SLES.

INCI Case Studies

Example 1: The “Poetry” Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Citric Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine... [long list of extracts]

Analysis: Citric acid is usually used at max 1.5% to adjust pH. If it is in the 3rd position, everything following it (including the Betaine and all those fancy extracts) is likely at a very low concentration. This is mostly just SLES and water—very aggressive!

Example 2: The “Oily” Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside...

Analysis: This skips the Betaine but uses high levels of oils to buffer the SLES. While this feels milder, the oils might weigh down fine hair or cause issues for those with greasy scalps.

Example 3: The “Silicon Build-up” Formula

Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Dimethicone...

Analysis: Dimethicone (a silicone) is high up on the list. It will make hair look amazing the first few times, but it eventually builds up, leaving hair heavy and dull. Also, without CAPB, the SLES might still feel quite harsh.

Example 4: The Balanced Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Decyl Polyglucose...

Analysis: This is what we want to see! CAPB is in the 3rd position, followed by two more mild surfactants. It’s a complex, well-thought-out cleaning system.

Summary Table: Ingredients to Watch

Ingredient Type	What to look for	Function
Primary Surfactant	SLES, Sodium Coco Sulfate	Cleaning and Lather
Secondary Surfactant	Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glucosides	Mildness and Foam stability
Conditioners	Polyquaternium-7, Silicones, Guar	Manageability and Shine
Proteins	Hydrolyzed Wheat/Silk Protein	Film-forming protection
Thickeners	Sodium Chloride (Salt)	Adjusting viscosity

This is just the beginning of our INCI journey! In the next session, we will look at shampoos that use different surfactant bases beyond SLES.

Do you have a shampoo at home with a confusing INCI? Post it below and let’s analyze it! 😀

Amla Power – DIY Spicy Shampoo

Lab Note: “Amla Power” Spicy Shampoo (The Poetic Effect!)

Hello Hello! 😀 Instead of trying to invent a “miracle anti-gravity” cream today, I decided to focus on something I really needed: a new shampoo!

I formulated this one for the “Autumn hair loss” season. I’m not saying I found a high-tech miracle cure—I’m not even sure those exist! Instead, I used a simple trick: Spicy Essential Oils to help stimulate blood circulation in the scalp. Plus, I added the “Prince” of Indian hair care: Amla Powder!

The Amla Legend

I bought this Amla in India. There, it’s believed to do everything: strengthen follicles, stop dandruff, prevent graying, and even straighten hair! Sips water. If you know me, you know I don’t blindly believe in miracles, but I love the history of Amla, so I added it for The Poetic Effect. 🙂

A Formulator’s Warning: Adding powders to shampoo is tricky! Unless your shampoo is super thick, the powder will eventually sink to the bottom. It can also mess with stability, so I used a higher level of preservative and made a small batch (100g) to be used quickly!

The Formula: Spicy Amla Power

Phase A:

Water: to 100
Amla Powder: 0.2 (For the poetry!)
Glycerin: 3.0
Inulin: 1.0 (For smoothing)
Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins: 2.5
Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0

Phase B (The Surfactant Base):

SLES: 25.0
Coco Glucoside / Glyceryl Oleate: 2.5
Decyl Glucoside: 2.5

Phase C (The “Spice” & Conditioning):

Polyquaternium 7: 2.0 (The conditioner)
EO of Cinnamon: 10 drops
EO of Cardamom: 5 drops
EO of Sweet Orange: 5 drops

Phase D (The Thickener):

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 10.0 (The key to the texture!)
pH adjusted to 4.5 with Citric Acid

Notes from my Beaker:

Dispersing the Amla: At first, the Amla powder just floated there, so I hit it with the immersion mixer until Phase A was uniform.
Surfactant Magic: I mixed the Phase B surfactants first. It’s always satisfying to see that thick, pearly density start to form!
One by One: I added the Phase C ingredients (Polyquat and oils) to the surfactants one at a time. I’m not very patient about bubbles :D, so there were a few, but that’s okay!
The Big Mix: I poured the watery Phase A into the thick Phase B very slowly. It became very liquid at first—but don’t panic!
The “Betaine Flip”: As soon as I added the Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Phase D), the whole thing became dense and thick like a real shampoo. It’s my favorite part of the process!

Final Verdict: It smells incredible—like a spicy tea for your head! My hair felt strong and the scalp felt “awake.” Just remember to shake it if the Amla starts to settle!

DIY Karma Shampoo (extra delicate!) & chat on betaine

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only—not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Hello everyone! 😀

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m sharing my experiment with a formula that is all about finding the perfect “Karma” for my hair. I know I’ve been experimenting with a lot of sulfate-free stuff lately, but sometimes you just want that really deep, satisfying clean that only SLES can give—especially if you’ve been using a lot of hairspray or if your hair just feels “heavy.”

The challenge I set for myself was: Can I use SLES but make it feel like a high-end, expensive boutique shampoo instead of something harsh?

The secret is all in the TMG (Trimethylglycine). (Trimethylglycine). I didn’t just want bubbles; I wanted protection. TMG is an anhydrous betaine that is a total powerhouse for hydration. Adding it to a SLES base is a game-changer because it helps protect the scalp and hair from the drying effects of the surfactants. It’s like giving your hair a big drink of water while you clean it!

The Formula

Phase A:

Water: to 100
Glycerin: 3
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: 0.2

Phase B:

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES): 25
Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 10
Coco-Glucoside: 5
TMG (Trimethylglycine): 3

Phase C:

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: 1
Panthenol: 0.5
Preservative: (According to my usual lab choice)
Fragrance Oil: (Karma type scent)
Citric Acid: (To reach pH 5.5)
Salt (Sodium Chloride): (A pinch to thicken)

My notes from the experiment:

The best part was watching the texture change. When I started adding the Citric Acid to bring the pH down to 5.5, and then just a tiny pinch of salt at the very end, the shampoo turned into this gorgeous, thick “honey” consistency. It’s so satisfying to pour!

The result is exactly what I wanted. You get those huge, fluffy bubbles that everyone loves, but when you rinse it off, your hair doesn’t feel like “straw.” It feels clean, bouncy, and smells like a L**h dupe 😀 . It just goes to show that with the right balance, even the “strong” ingredients can have great Karma! ENJOY! 😀

On Surfactants and Formulation (face wash, shampoo and shower gels)

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Lab Notes: The ASM Reality

After spending so much time with surfactants, it’s clear that formulating a detergent isn’t about the volume of the bottle, but about the ASM (Active Surfactant Matter). It’s a core lesson: since raw surfactants are usually sold as solutions (mostly water), the only way to know the real “cleaning power” is to calculate the active part of the molecule.

What I’ve Learnt About ASM Targets

The ASM Protocol — Quantitative Detergent Design

In surfactant chemistry, we do not formulate based on the “volume of the bottle” but on the Active Surfactant Matter (ASM). Since raw surfactants are sold as aqueous solutions (e.g., 30% active matter and 70% water), we must calculate the true concentration of the “cleaning” part of the molecule to ensure safety and efficacy.

1. The ASM Target Reference

Before calculating, I define the target ASM based on the physiological needs of the area being cleansed. High ASM provides more “bubbles” and stripping power, while low ASM preserves the lipid barrier.

Product Type	Target ASM Range	Formulation Goal
Face / Intimate Wash	< 10%	Ultra-delicate; avoids stripping the acid mantle.
Shampoo	10% – 15%	High wetting ability; removes sebum/styling products.
Shower Gel	15% – 20%	Standard body cleansing; good foam volume.
Bubble Bath	20% – 25%+	Maximum foam stability; not intended for direct skin contact.

2. The Mathematical Approach: Solving for ASM

I utilize two primary methods in the lab to reach my target (e.g., a 18% ASM Shower Gel).

Method A: Quota Division (Precise)

I decide exactly what “share” each surfactant contributes to the total 18% and solve for the grams needed.

Sarcosinate (29% ASM): Quota 10% then I calculate: 10 $/ 0.29 = 34.48g$
Betaine (36% ASM): Quota 5% so: 5 / $0.36 = 13.88g$
Lauryl Glucoside (52% ASM): Quota 3% so: 3 / $0.52 = 5.76g$
Total ASM = 18%

Method B: Gram Estimation (Iterative)

I estimate the grams first and check the result against the target.

$40g { Sarcosinate}* 0.29 = 11.6g$
$15g { Betaine} * 0.36 = 5.4g$
$5g { Lauryl Glucoside} * 0.52 = 2.6$
Total ASM = 19.6% (Adjust grams downward to reach 18%).

3. Raw Material Profiles & Behavioral Notes

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Anionic – 29%): Eco-friendly and creamy. Viscosity is highly dependent on a pH of 5.0. It is sensitive to oils and fragrances, often requiring Xanthan Gum for stabilization.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Amphoteric – 30-38%): The “Buffer.” When paired with Anionics (like SLES), it creates a salt-thickening curve. It significantly reduces the irritation potential of harsher surfactants.
Lauryl Glucoside (Non-Ionic – 52%): A thick, cloudy paste. Excellent for thickening and skin-mildness, but requires gentle heating ( $40^\circ\text{C}$ – $50^\circ\text{C}$ ) to become workable.
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (Amphoteric – 38%): The “Baby” surfactant. Does not trigger the ocular sting reflex; ideal for “no-tears” formulations.

Researcher Summary

Calculating ASM is the only way to ensure reproducibility in the lab. By mastering this math, I can hopefully swap one surfactant for another (e.g., replacing SLES with a more eco-friendly Sarcosinate) while maintaining the exact same “strength” of the detergent.

Solid-State Detergent Theory (The Syndet Bar)

The Formulation Challenge: Aggression vs. Concentration

The Technical Strategy: Surfactant “Taming”

Experimental Formula: Case Study #SYNDET-BAR-01

Processing & Thermal Observations

Researcher Summary & Sensory Evaluation

Share this:

Lab Note: My “No Dandruff” Scalp-Calming Shampoo

The “Clear Scalp” Strategy:

The Formula for my Experiment:

Notes from my Beaker:

Share this:

My “No-SLES” Gentle Shampoo Experiment

The “Gentle” Strategy:

The Formula for my Experiment:

Notes from my Beaker:

Share this:

Theory: How to Read a Shampoo INCI (Ingredient List)

The Three Rules of the Lab:

Analyzing the Surfactants

The Golden Ratio: SLES + CAPB

INCI Case Studies

Example 1: The “Poetry” Formula

Example 2: The “Oily” Formula

Example 3: The “Silicon Build-up” Formula

Example 4: The Balanced Formula

Summary Table: Ingredients to Watch

Share this:

Lab Note: “Amla Power” Spicy Shampoo (The Poetic Effect!)

The Amla Legend

The Formula: Spicy Amla Power

Notes from my Beaker:

Share this:

The Formula

Share this:

Lab Notes: The ASM Reality

What I’ve Learnt About ASM Targets

The ASM Protocol — Quantitative Detergent Design

Share this: