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For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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Hello everyone!
Continue reading Smooth Away Face Cream
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
Hello Hello! 😀 Today I share one of my last experiments in the home “lsab”. Where I live, we had days over 40°C, and I just wanted something that felt icy and refreshing. I decided to formulate a serum that behaves perfectly when stored in the fridge—though I always remind myself: even if it’s cold, THERE IS NO ESCAPE FROM PRESERVATIVES! 😀
This is an “upgraded” version of my basic Hyaluronic Acid gel. I wanted to include two salts that I usually can’t put in my lotions because my favorite polymeric emulsifiers are such picky divas when it comes to salts! But in a simple water-based serum, they are absolute stars.
Water: to 100%
Sodium Hyaluronate (high molecular weight): 1%
Sodium Hyaluronate (low molecular weight): 0.5%
Sodium Lactate: 2%
Sodium PCA: 1%
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): 2.5%
D-Panthenol: 0.5%
Phenonip: 0.5%
Fragrance oil (Rock Candy): 0.2%
The Hyaluronic “Fuss”: I measured out the water and poured the high molecular weight HA on top. Usually, I try to be patient and let it hydrate naturally, but I was in a rush! I used a stick blender which made it cloudy at first, but after a few days, it turned perfectly transparent. I did the same with the low molecular weight version right after.
The Humectant Boost: I added the Sodium Lactate and Sodium PCA next. Since these are naturally found in our skin (NMF), they make the serum feel so high-performing.
The Niacinamide Caution: I love using Vitamin B3 in the summer, but it’s so sensitive to pH. I measured mine and it was around 7.5, so I used a couple of drops of lactic acid to bring it down to pH 6.5. It’s essential to keep it in that neutral range!
A Touch of Pink: I added one drop of pink food colorant just to pamper myself. It wasn’t a necessity, but it looks so pretty in the bottle!
The Scent: I used a “Rock Candy” fragrance (the Rock Star dupe) and I absolutely LOVE it.
Final Verdict: I was a bit worried that with so many hygroscopic ingredients, it would feel sticky in the 40°C heat, but it’s not at all! I think the Niacinamide really helps with that. I only apply one drop and my skin feels unbelievably smooth. It’s the perfect “fridge treat” for the face. ENJOY! 🙂
I have added one drop of pink food colorant cause I like to pamper myself with colors. Was it a necessity? Nope.
The Fragrance Oil used in this Serum was Rock Candy from Sensory Perfection (the L**h dupe for “Rock Star”) and I LOVE IT! 🙂
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
In the modern cosmetic landscape, silicones (organosilicon compounds) are often misunderstood. My research objective was to evaluate these molecules based on their technical performance, their interaction with skin physiology, and their environmental impact.
Silicones are utilized in high-end formulations not because they are “cheap fillers,” but because they offer a unique sensory profile that natural oils cannot replicate.
Surface Tension: Silicones have very low surface tension, allowing them to spread easily and create a “dry-touch” silkiness.
Stability: Unlike natural vegetable oils, silicones are highly resistant to oxidation and heat, making them excellent carriers for chemical UV filters and pigments.
The “Illusion” of Health: While silicones provide an immediate smoothing effect, it is critical to distinguish between aesthetic improvement and biological hydration. Silicones do not “nourish” the skin; they provide a temporary protective and perfecting film.
The claim that silicones “suffocate” the skin is largely unsupported by molecular science.
Molecular Size: Most silicones are large, stable molecules that sit on top of the Stratum Corneum. Because of their unique “staggered” molecular structure, they are generally permeable to oxygen and water vapor.
Viscosity Variations: * Volatile Silicones (e.g., Cyclopentasiloxane): Evaporate quickly, leaving a weightless finish.
Non-Volatile Silicones (e.g., Dimethicone): Heavier and more occlusive. While technically non-comedogenic, their “film-forming” nature can trap sweat or sebum underneath in certain skin types, which may lead to breakouts for individuals like myself.
While silicones are safe for human topical application, their environmental “footprint” is significant.
Origin: Derived from Silica (Sand), not petroleum.
Biodegradability: The very stability that makes silicones excellent for formulation makes them problematic for the planet. They are largely non-biodegradable. Once washed down the drain, these molecules persist in the ecosystem for decades.
Researcher Stance: As formulators in 2026, we must weigh the aesthetic benefits of silicones against their long-term environmental persistence.
In hair care, silicones function as high-performance conditioning agents.
The Benefit: They coat the hair shaft, smoothing the cuticle and reducing friction (easier combing).
The Downside: Over-use of heavy silicones can lead to “Build-Up,” where the layer becomes too thick, making the hair appear lank and heavy. In my formulas, I limit silicone inclusion to 1% to achieve “slip” without the weight.
Silicones are neither “miraculous” nor “dangerous.” They are sophisticated tools for texture manipulation. In medical settings, their stability and low allergenicity make them ideal for scar treatment and wound care. In cosmetics, they are the key to the “velvet” finish.
My Lab Philosophy: Use silicones intentionally for performance (e.g., in foundations or high-slip conditioners), but do not rely on them as a substitute for genuine skin-nourishing actives like Niacinamide, Panthenol, or Linoleic-rich oils.
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
Hello there! 😀
This is finally the last chapter of the “Recognizing a good Shampoo” topic.
After the basics of shampoo surfactants in the part 1 and part 2 and in the last post (which you can find here) I talked about the most common “extra ingredients”.
I know I haven’t covered all the possible things but I did what I could 😀
Hello Hello! :D To finish our journey through the shampoo bottle, we are looking at the “useful” ingredients—the actives that theoretically make a difference for your scalp and hair.
However, we must be realistic: a shampoo stays on your head for maybe a minute before it’s rinsed off. While these ingredients are great, they are often used at minimal amounts just to look good on the label. 😉 Here is what to look for!
Panthenol (Vitamin B5): This is a famous one! It’s a humectant that helps hair retain water and creates a protective film. While it’s a great ingredient, don’t expect miracles from a shampoo alone since it barely has time to sink in.
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): A good antioxidant, but again, its effect in a wash-off product like shampoo is debatable. It’s often there more for “poetry” than performance! :D
Aloe Barbadensis: We hear so much about Aloe! It’s hydrating and soothing. Note: Some people are actually allergic to Aloe, so if you notice an itchy scalp after switching to an “Aloe shampoo,” that might be why!
If you have a problematic scalp, look for these near the end of the INCI (usually used at ~1%):
Piroctone Olamine: A very effective ingredient for fighting dandruff.
Salicylic Acid: Often combined with Piroctone Olamine to help clear the scalp.
Take these with a pinch of salt! Hair loss is often genetic, and no shampoo is a “miracle cure.” However, these ingredients aim to improve scalp oxygenation and blood circulation:
Caffeine: Helps stimulate circulation in the scalp.
Arginine & Lysine: Amino acids that help repair hair and are thought to support growth.
Plant Extracts: Look for Ginkgo Biloba, Hops, Mallow, or Pumpkin Seed extract. They give the skin a little “energy,” but they aren’t magic!
You know I love this one! :D Remember: this is NOT the surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Betaine). This is a humectant that makes detergents much milder.Pro Tip: If you find this ingredient near the beginning of the INCI (around 5%), you are almost certainly looking at a high-quality, mild shampoo.
| Ingredient | Primary Goal | Reality Check |
| Piroctone Olamine | Anti-Dandruff | Effective at ~1% |
| Caffeine / Arginine | Scalp Stimulation | May help, but not a “cure” |
| Panthenol | Hydration / Film | Good, but mostly marketing in shampoo |
| Trimethylglycine | Mildness | Great sign if high in the list! |
That is it for our shampoo series! I hope you now feel like you have all the tools you need to choose the best product for your specific hair and scalp.
Have you spotted any of these “energy” ingredients on your favorite bottle? Let me know below! 😀
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
So here we are, with the third part of he “Can you recognize a good Shampoo” posts! (you can check pt.1 and pt.2).
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
Hello Hello! 😀 Following our session on SLES and Betaine, it is time to look at another very common surfactant combination: The Glucosides.
If you see these ingredients in an INCI, you are likely looking at a “Bio” or “Eco-friendly” shampoo. Glucosides are Non-Ionic surfactants, meaning they carry no electrical charge. They are prized in green chemistry because they are usually easily biodegradable and derived from natural sources.
Lauryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Coco Glucoside
Caprylyl/Capric Glucoside (A particularly good solubilizer for oils)
It is important to remember: a “gentle” surfactant doesn’t automatically mean a gentle shampoo! A poorly formulated glucoside shampoo can still be aggressive, just as a well-formulated SLES shampoo can be very mild.
However, because they are non-ionic, they are generally less irritating to the scalp and are the “gold standard” for baby products and sensitive skin. The trade-off? They are less conditioning than the SLES+Betaine combo. A good formulator will compensate for this by adding extra conditioning agents or proteins.
Water, Decyl Glucoside, Cocoglucoside, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, [Extracts], Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate...
Analysis: This is a very well-thought-out formula. Using two different glucosides followed by Betaine and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate creates a “surfactant cocktail.” The more surfactants you blend, the milder the result usually is. It looks like a very gentle, high-quality formulation!
Water, Disodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, [Extracts]...
Analysis: Very simple and very green. All these surfactants are easily biodegradable and mild. However, notice the lack of conditioning agents. While “clean,” this shampoo might lack the wetting ability needed for thick hair and could leave it feeling a bit tangled.
Aqua, Coco Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate...
Analysis: Here, Glyceryl Oleate is added specifically to “re-fat” the hair and make the wash even milder. You also see many essential oils (Tea Tree, Rosemary) added for sebum regulation. While honey is listed (great for label appeal!), its actual effect in a wash-off product is likely minimal compared to the surfactants.
| Feature | Glucoside-Based Shampoos |
| Sustainability | High (Easily biodegradable) |
| Charge | Non-Ionic (No charge) |
| Skin Feel | Very low irritation, good for delicate scalps |
| Formulation | Often more expensive/difficult to thicken than SLES |
| Best For | Babies, eco-conscious consumers, very sensitive scalps |
Interestingly, I have yet to find a “terrible” INCI that uses a glucoside base—usually, if a company is spending the money on these surfactants, they are also putting effort into the rest of the balance!
Do you have a “Green” shampoo at home? Check the label and see if you can spot these glucosides! 😀
LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
Hello Hello! 😀 Today’s session is about a superpower every formulator should have: the ability to recognize a good shampoo just by looking at the label!
The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the list of everything inside a product. They are listed in order of percentage, except for ingredients below 1%, which can be listed in any order at the end. While we can’t know the exact percentages, our knowledge of formulation helps us see if a product is well-balanced or just “poetry.”
Bio-Realism: I am not a “biodegradable-nazi.” I prefer eco-friendly ingredients, but I look for overall balance rather than perfection.
Listen to Your Hair: If a shampoo gives you an itchy scalp or greasy hair, stop using it—even if the INCI looks “perfect” on paper!
The 1% Line: Often, expensive plant extracts are listed above preservatives just for “label appeal,” even if they are only present at 0.01%. Don’t be fooled!
Surfactants are the “magic” that creates foam. In most commercial shampoos, the primary family is Anionic (negative charge), like SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate). SLES is effective and conditioning, but it can be aggressive if used alone.
The most common combination is SLES + Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB). To make a shampoo mild, the CAPB should ideally be at least 1/3 of the amount of SLES.
A Good Sign: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine...
A Red Flag: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride... Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Note: If Sodium Chloride (salt) appears before the Betaine, it usually means the Betaine is too low (under 1-2%) to effectively buffer the SLES.
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Citric Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine... [long list of extracts]
Analysis: Citric acid is usually used at max 1.5% to adjust pH. If it is in the 3rd position, everything following it (including the Betaine and all those fancy extracts) is likely at a very low concentration. This is mostly just SLES and water—very aggressive!
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside...
Analysis: This skips the Betaine but uses high levels of oils to buffer the SLES. While this feels milder, the oils might weigh down fine hair or cause issues for those with greasy scalps.
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Dimethicone...
Analysis: Dimethicone (a silicone) is high up on the list. It will make hair look amazing the first few times, but it eventually builds up, leaving hair heavy and dull. Also, without CAPB, the SLES might still feel quite harsh.
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Decyl Polyglucose...
Analysis: This is what we want to see! CAPB is in the 3rd position, followed by two more mild surfactants. It’s a complex, well-thought-out cleaning system.
| Ingredient Type | What to look for | Function |
| Primary Surfactant | SLES, Sodium Coco Sulfate | Cleaning and Lather |
| Secondary Surfactant | Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glucosides | Mildness and Foam stability |
| Conditioners | Polyquaternium-7, Silicones, Guar | Manageability and Shine |
| Proteins | Hydrolyzed Wheat/Silk Protein | Film-forming protection |
| Thickeners | Sodium Chloride (Salt) | Adjusting viscosity |
This is just the beginning of our INCI journey! In the next session, we will look at shampoos that use different surfactant bases beyond SLES.
Do you have a shampoo at home with a confusing INCI? Post it below and let’s analyze it! 😀
IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS 