Category: INCI

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Silicone Chemistry — Performance, Breathability, and Sustainability

In the modern cosmetic landscape, silicones (organosilicon compounds) are often misunderstood. My research objective was to evaluate these molecules based on their technical performance, their interaction with skin physiology, and their environmental impact.

1. Performance Theory: The “Velvet” Effect

Silicones are utilized in high-end formulations not because they are “cheap fillers,” but because they offer a unique sensory profile that natural oils cannot replicate.

• Surface Tension: Silicones have very low surface tension, allowing them to spread easily and create a “dry-touch” silkiness.

• Stability: Unlike natural vegetable oils, silicones are highly resistant to oxidation and heat, making them excellent carriers for chemical UV filters and pigments.

• The “Illusion” of Health: While silicones provide an immediate smoothing effect, it is critical to distinguish between aesthetic improvement and biological hydration. Silicones do not “nourish” the skin; they provide a temporary protective and perfecting film.

2. The Breathability Myth: Pore Clogging (Comedogenicity)

The claim that silicones “suffocate” the skin is largely unsupported by molecular science.

• Molecular Size: Most silicones are large, stable molecules that sit on top of the Stratum Corneum. Because of their unique “staggered” molecular structure, they are generally permeable to oxygen and water vapor.

• Viscosity Variations: * Volatile Silicones (e.g., Cyclopentasiloxane): Evaporate quickly, leaving a weightless finish.

  • Non-Volatile Silicones (e.g., Dimethicone): Heavier and more occlusive. While technically non-comedogenic, their “film-forming” nature can trap sweat or sebum underneath in certain skin types, which may lead to breakouts for individuals like myself.

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3. The Sustainability Concern: Environmental Persistence

While silicones are safe for human topical application, their environmental “footprint” is significant.

• Origin: Derived from Silica (Sand), not petroleum.

• Biodegradability: The very stability that makes silicones excellent for formulation makes them problematic for the planet. They are largely non-biodegradable. Once washed down the drain, these molecules persist in the ecosystem for decades.

• Researcher Stance: As formulators in 2026, we must weigh the aesthetic benefits of silicones against their long-term environmental persistence.

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4. Hair Care: The “Build-Up” Phenomenon

In hair care, silicones function as high-performance conditioning agents.

• The Benefit: They coat the hair shaft, smoothing the cuticle and reducing friction (easier combing).

• The Downside: Over-use of heavy silicones can lead to “Build-Up,” where the layer becomes too thick, making the hair appear lank and heavy. In my formulas, I limit silicone inclusion to 1% to achieve “slip” without the weight.

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Researcher Summary

Silicones are neither “miraculous” nor “dangerous.” They are sophisticated tools for texture manipulation. In medical settings, their stability and low allergenicity make them ideal for scar treatment and wound care. In cosmetics, they are the key to the “velvet” finish.

My Lab Philosophy: Use silicones intentionally for performance (e.g., in foundations or high-slip conditioners), but do not rely on them as a substitute for genuine skin-nourishing actives like Niacinamide, Panthenol, or Linoleic-rich oils.