Tag: theory

Formulating a lotion: Choosing the fats – THEORY pt.5

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No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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My Lab Diary: The “Grease-Fall” (A Study in Balance)

Hello Hello! 😀

Today I want to talk about something very important when we make a cream: the Grease-Fall. I’ve been doing a lot of experiments lately because I wanted to understand why some of my creams felt “greasy” on my skin for a long time, while others disappeared too fast and my skin felt dry again.

I found out it’s all about the spreading velocity of the oils we use!

What is the Grease-Fall? Think of it like a waterfall of oils. If you only use one oil, like Olive Oil, it has one “speed.” But if you mix different oils, you can make a “cascade” where the skin feels good from the first second until many hours later.

In my lab notes, I divide my oils into three groups:

  1. Light Oils (The fast ones!): These are oils that spread very quickly. When you put the cream on, these are the ones that make it feel “silk” and not “fat.” I like to use things like Cetiol Sensoft or Dicaprylyl Ether.

  2. Medium Oils: These are the heart of the cream. They spread a bit slower than the light ones. Here I use my favorites like Argan oil, Jojoba, or Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides.

  3. Heavy Oils and Butters: These are the slow ones. They stay on top of the skin to protect it so the water doesn’t evaporate. Here I put my Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, or Castor oil.

How I make my “Team of Oils”: I don’t just pick an oil because the marketing says it’s “miraculous.” (I don’t believe in miracles, I believe in INCI! 😉 ) I try to make a balance. For example, if I use 10% of oils in my cream, I don’t use 10% of Shea Butter. That would be like wearing a plastic mask!

I try to do something like this:

  • 3% Light oils

  • 4% Medium oils

  • 3% Heavy oils/butters

This way, the effect of rubbing the cream should be something like this :

  • First, the Light oils spread and it feels “Wow, so smooth!”

  • Then, the Medium oils take over.

  • At the end, the Heavy oils stay to protect the skin.

This is the secret to a professional cream! It’s not about the most expensive oil in the world, it’s about how you mix them.

It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

Formulating a lotion: Phase B – THEORY pt.4

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For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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My Lab Diary: Phase B—The Heated Oil Phase

Hello Hello! 😀

Today I’m looking over my notes for Phase B, which I call the “Heated Oil Phase.” This is where the cream really starts to take its physical shape. It’s a critical stage because if the solid components aren’t fully melted and happy at 70°C, the whole emulsion will be unstable.

1. The Emulsifier: The “Bridge”

In my lab, I see the emulsifier as the bridge that holds hands with both the water and the oil. While I love a good cold-process experiment, most of the professional materials I use need heat to build a strong “lattice” that won’t fall apart tomorrow. I always check their HLB and thermal requirements before I even turn on the stove!

2. Thickeners: The Structural Skeleton

I use lipophilic thickeners (like Cetyl Alcohol or Stearic Acid) to give the cream its “bones.” They usually come in cute little pearls or pellets.

  • My Ratios: I’ve found that a 1% total thickener is usually my “sweet spot.” Lately, I’ve been loving a 1:1 mix of Cetyl Alcohol (0.5%) and Cetearyl Palmitate (0.5%)—it makes the skin feel so elegant and professional! 😀

  • A Note on “All-in-One” Blends: I’ve learned to be careful with things like Montanov 68. Since it already has Cetearyl Alcohol inside, if I add more thickener to my notes, the cream ends up lumpy and “over-processed.” Less is definitely more here!

3. The Lipid Load (Fats & Oils)

Before I start a new “Theory Batch,” I always ask myself: “Who is this for?” The amount of fat I use changes everything. Here is the scale I’ve developed for my experiments:

Total Fats (%) My Intent / Skin Type
0% – 2% Oily skin / Fresh Summer Gels
4.5% – 7.5% Light, everyday facial creams
12% – 15% Rich creams for dry skin theory
25% + Heavy-duty barrier creams for hands and feet

**4. Don’t Fall for the “Khtululu Oil” Trap! 😉 **

Sips water. If there is one thing I’ve learned, it’s that price does not equal performance. It is so easy to fall for exotic, expensive oils with “miraculous” claims (I call them the “Khtululu Oils” of the world!).

In my lab, I ignore the marketing story. Instead, I focus on:

  • Viscosity: How thick is it?

  • Density ($\rho$): Is it heavy or light?

  • Spreading Velocity: How fast does it disappear into the skin?

A successful oil phase isn’t about finding the rarest oil in the world; it’s about the Grease-Fall. By blending different densities, I can create a professional feel that a single “miracle” oil could never achieve. It’s not magic—it’s just good formulation!

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

(Sources)

How to make a lotion – THEORY pt.2

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Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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My Lab Notes: The “Dance” of the Three Phases

Hello Hello! 😀 I’ve spent so much time reading about lipids and polymers, but there is nothing quite like the moment when theory actually turns into a cream in my beaker! It feels like a little bit of magic every time.

I’ve been looking over my process, and I’ve realized that I always follow a very specific “rhythm” to make sure my emulsions don’t fall apart. In my lab, I call it the Core Three Phase System.

The Three “Buckets”

I’ve learned the hard way that you can’t just throw everything in at once! Sips water. I always separate my ingredients into three beakers:

  • PHASE A (The Watery Side): The water, glycerin, and gums that need to get hot.

  • PHASE B (The Oily Side): My fats and the emulsifier.

  • PHASE C (The Sensitive Stuff): This is my “cool-down” phase. These are the actives and preservatives that absolutely HATE heat.

My Experience with the “Double Boiler”

One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned is about the Thermal Threshold. I put both beakers (A and B) in the double boiler and wait for them to hit 70°C.

  • Lab Observation: If I get impatient and one phase is colder than the other, it “shocks” the emulsifier. It’s like they don’t want to shake hands! They have to be at the same temperature to bond properly.

The Mixing Moment (High-Shear vs. Spatula)

Once they hit the temperature, I pour B into A. This is the fun part!

  • The Mixer: I use my immersion mixer, but I’ve learned to keep the head submerged. If I lift it even a little, I get those “macrobubbles” that make the cream look like a sponge later. Not a good look! 😉

  • The Patience: Once it turns white and starts to thicken, I put the mixer away and switch to my spatula. This can take 30 minutes of manual stirring while it cools. It’s a great arm workout! But I’ve found that slow, constant stirring makes the final texture much smoother.

The Final Additions

I wait until the beaker feels cool to the touch (below 40°C) before I touch Phase C. I’ve realized that if I add my preservatives or my favorite delicate oils (like Rose Hip) while it’s still hot, I’m basically destroying the very ingredients I spent so much money on!

What I’ve Noticed (My Failure Points)

Even after so many batches, things can still go wrong:

  • The “Soap” Effect: Sometimes a cream leaves a white trail on the skin. I’ve noticed this happens when my thickener-to-emulsifier ratio is a bit “off.”

  • Separation: Usually, if a batch separates, I can trace it back to me being too fast with the temperature or a miscalculation in the HLB.

It’s a journey of trial and error, and honestly, every batch is a new chance to learn something about how these materials behave. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

How to make a lotion – THEORY pt.1

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Escin and Caffeine Eye Cream14

My Lab Notes: The Four Pillars of a Great Emulsion

Hello Hello! 😀

When I first started playing with body butters, I realized pretty quickly that I needed to dig a bit deeper into the science of it all. I didn’t want to just follow “recipes”; I wanted to understand the why.

These are my personal notes on the core structure of every face and body cream I make. While formulation can get incredibly complex, I’ve realized that my most successful experiments always come down to these four essential pillars.

1. The Mechanics of Hydration (Water + Fats)

I used to think water was just a filler, but it’s actually the hydration hero! The problem is that water evaporates too fast on its own. That’s where the Lipids (my oils and butters) come in—they act as a shield to keep that moisture trapped in.

  • My Observation: I’ve noticed that an emulsified cream (where the water and oil are actually “glued” together) works so much better than just shaking up a bottle of oil and water. It feels better, and the skin stays hydrated longer!

2. Preservation: My Non-Negotiable Rule! 😀

PHEW! Let’s talk about preservatives. I know some people want to avoid them, but in my lab, preservation is NOT optional. * The Reality: Any time I add water to a formula, I’m basically inviting bacteria and mold to a party. Unless I want to keep my creams in the fridge and throw them away after three days (no thanks! 😉 ), I need a professional preservation system. I usually choose eco-friendly options around 0.5-1%. Safety first!

3. The Water Phase: Pure vs. “Poetic”

For my experiments, I always use demineralized, pure water to avoid any minerals messing with my emulsifiers.

  • A bit of Poetry: I love using Rose water or Witch Hazel, but I’ve started categorizing these as “poetic” ingredients. They smell amazing and feel luxurious, but I keep my expectations realistic—they are there for the soul of the cream, while the “active ingredients” do the heavy lifting!

4. The Lipid Phase: Balancing the “Fall”

I’ve stopped believing in “miracle oils.” Now, I focus on the Grease-Fall.

  • The Strategy: Instead of just picking one oil, I look at the density ($\rho$) and the viscosity. I want a blend of light, medium, and heavy fats so the cream feels balanced from the moment I put it on until it sinks in.

5. Emulsifiers: The Architecture

The emulsifier is the “bridge” that holds the whole thing together. I choose mine based on:

  • Temperature: Do I want a cozy hot-process session at 70°C, or a quick cold-process fluid?

  • The “Touch”: Some give a dry, powdery finish, while others feel rich and velvety.

These four pillars are the foundation of everything I do. Once I get these right, I can start playing with the fun stuff—the actives!

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄