Tag: cream

Spring Hydrating and Multivit – Face Cream

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Spring Face Cream - Itsallinmyhands

My “Multivit” Spring Hydrating Cream

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m so happy to share my recipe for a “skin-awakening” cream. I made this specifically for the transition into Spring. During winter, my skin always ends up looking a bit dull and “tired,” so I wanted something light, super hydrating, and packed with vitamins to bring back that healthy glow! yeheee!

The Vitamin Cocktail:

I didn’t want a heavy, occlusive cream; I wanted a “water-bomb” effect. I used a combination of Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) for healing, Vitamin E for protection, and a touch of Vitamin C (the stable version!) to brighten things up. It’s like a fresh smoothie for the face!

The Formula:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 3

  • Xanthan Gum 0.2

  • Hyaluronic Acid (1% solution) – 5 (This is the secret for that “plump” Spring skin!)

Phase B:

  • Emulsifier (I used Olivem 1000) – 4 (I lowered it slightly from 5 to 4 to keep it lighter for the warmer weather.)

  • Rice Bran Oil – 3 (Very light and full of antioxidants.)

  • Jojoba Oil – 2

  • Ethylhexyl Stearate – 3 (This is a very fast-spreading “dry” oil that helps the cream absorb in seconds!)

Phase C (The Vitamin Boost):

  • Panthenol (B5) – 1

  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E) – 1

  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) – 0.5 (This stable version of Vitamin C is great because it doesn’t irritate the skin as much!)

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) – 2 (My absolute favorite for refining pores and evening out the skin tone.)

  • Preservative (According to your type)

  • Fragrance (I used a “Green Tea and Lemon” scent—it smells so fresh! :D)

Notes from the Beaker:

  1. The Niacinamide Trick: I make sure to dissolve the Niacinamide in a tiny bit of water from Phase A before adding it at the end. If the pH of your cream is too low (below 5), Niacinamide can get “angry” and turn into nicotinic acid, which makes your face flush red! So I always check that the pH is exactly 5.5.

  2. Lightness is Key: Since this is for Spring, I used more “dry” emollients. If you feel like it’s still too heavy, you can swap the Jojoba for more Rice Bran oil.

  3. The Glow: The combination of Vitamin C and Hyaluronic acid gives an immediate brightness. It doesn’t hide imperfections; it just makes the skin look “awake.”

  4. Heating: Usual drill! Heat A and B to 70°C, then combine. Wait until it’s below 40°C before adding all those precious vitamins in Phase C, or the heat might destroy them!

Final Verdict: I’ve been using this for a week and my skin feels so much more resilient. It’s the perfect “reset” button after a long, cold winter. ENJOY! 😀

Q10 Antioxidant Face Cream DIY

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Q10 Antioxidant Face Cream DIY

Lab Note: My “Antioxidant Network” Experiment!

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am so excited to share an experiment that is a bit “brainy” but so cool! I call it the Antioxidant Network. Usually, we just pick one “hero” ingredient like Vitamin C, but I wanted to try something different. I wanted to build a team!

The idea is the Redox Theory—it’s like a relay race for your skin. When one antioxidant gets “tired” from fighting free radicals, the others step in to “recharge” it so the whole system keeps working. It’s synergy in a jar! yeheee! 😀

The Team Members:

  • Coenzyme Q10: The energy booster! It gives the cream a lovely yellow tint.

  • SAP (Vitamin C): I used Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate because it’s way less “grumpy” and irritating than pure Vitamin C.

  • Alpha-Lipoic Acid (0.5%): The “Universal” antioxidant. Warning: This stuff has a “Hell-Smell” of its own—it’s very sulfuric! I only used 0.5% because I wanted the benefits without smelling like a matchstick factory. 😛

  • Vitamin E: To protect the oils and the skin’s lipids.

The Emulsifier “Fuss”: Hitecream 3000

I played with Hitecream 3000 for this one. It’s a vegetable, protein-based emulsifier that’s supposed to be super skin-compatible. I used it at 7% on its own. It gave a stable cream, but next time I might drop it to 5% and add a bit of Cetyl Alcohol to make the texture feel a bit more “posh.”

The Formula I Used:

Phase A:

  • Distilled Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 2.0

  • Carbopol Ultrez 21 / Xanthan: 0.3 / 0.2 (My hybrid gelling system!)

Phase B:

  • Hitecream 3000: 7.0

  • Kokum & Murumuru Butters: 1.5 / 1.0 (Love my dry butters!)

  • Dicaprylyl Ether: 1.5

  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0

Phase C (The Antioxidant Cold Phase):

  • Safflower & Ribes Nigrum Oils: 0.5 / 0.5

  • Q10 / Alpha-Lipoic Acid: 0.1 / 0.5

Phase D (The Finishing Touch):

  • SAP (Vitamin C): 1.0

  • Rose Water: 10.0 (To dissolve the SAP)

  • D-Panthenol / Preservative: 1.0 / q.s.

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The “No-Stir” Trick: For the Carbopol Ultrez 21, I just let it float on the water until it hydrated itself. No clumps, no stress! Then I added my Xanthan-Glycerin slurry.

  2. Heat it Up: Hitecream needs to hit 70°C to wake up and start working.

  3. The Cooling Phase: I was very careful here. I pre-dispersed the Q10 and that stinky Alpha-Lipoic acid in the cold oils (Phase C) and only added them when the cream was cool. I also dissolved the SAP in Rose Water before stirring it in.

  4. The Look: The Q10 makes it a pale yellow, but I added one drop of food colorant just to make it look “fresh” and pretty on my vanity.

Final Verdict: The synergy between the SAP and the Q10 really made my skin look vibrant! Even with the slight “sulfur” hint from the Alpha-Lipoic acid, I really liked how this cream performed. It feels like a high-tech shield for the face! ENJOY! 🙂

Formulating a lotion: Fatty Acids and ACNE

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Fatty Acid Profiles and Formulation Theory

In the last post I talked about about the GREASE-FALL, which is “how to distribute the fats in order to obtain a specific kind of cream”.
In my formulation research, understanding the specific fatty acid profiles within natural fats is essential for tailoring a formula’s behavior. This is especially true when exploring theory related to blemish-prone skin and how we balance the “Grease Fall.”

The Common Fatty Acids in Cosmetics

The fatty acids found in cosmetic raw materials are categorized by their chemical structure, which dictates how they feel on the skin and their state at room temperature.

  • Saturated Fatty Acids: (e.g., Palmitic, Stearic, Lauric acid). These molecules sit very closely together, making the fats solid at room temperature. In my experiments, a high concentration of Stearic Acid often contributes to the “white-trail” (soaping) effect during application.

  • Monounsaturated Fatty Acids: (e.g., Palmitoleic, Oleic acid).

  • Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs): (e.g., Linoleic/Omega-6, Alpha-linolenic/Omega-3). These have a molecular shape that prevents them from packing tightly, keeping them liquid.

The “Marketing vs. Chemistry” Reality

One of the most important lessons in my journey is that many “exotic” oils share nearly identical fatty acid profiles with much cheaper alternatives.

  • Almond, Macadamia, and Hazelnut oils have very similar compositions despite vastly different price points.

    In my lab, I now cross-reference fatty acid content to ensure the chemistry—not the marketing story—supports the formula.

Theoretical Correlation: Fats and Acne-Prone Skin

Research suggests a correlation between sebum composition and acne: sebum in acne-prone individuals often shows a higher percentage of monounsaturated fatty acids (specifically Oleic acid) relative to polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Theoretical Risks of Oleic Acid:

High levels of Oleic acid are theorized to increase calcium ions ($Ca^{2+}$) on the skin’s surface, which may lead to higher keratinization (clogged pores). This is a critical disparity I consider during formulation design.

Applying the Theory: My “Grease Fall” Strategy

When targeting blemish-prone skin in “theory batches,” I focus on balancing the “grease fall” with high-PUFA oils.

My Experimental Approach:

  1. Butters: Kept at a low percentage (0.5–1%) for consistency without adding excessive heaviness.

  2. Oil Selection: Prioritizing oils low in Oleic acid and rich in Linoleic and Alpha-Linolenic acids.

High-PUFA Oil Reference:

  • Specialty: Hemp, Borage, and Evening Primrose oils.

  • Functional: Grape seed, Raspberry, and Safflower oils.

  • Accessible: Sunflower and Soy oils.

For butters, I look toward Murumuru, Coconut, and Tucuma, as they theoretically contain lower levels of oleic acid compared to traditional heavier butters.