LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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In the last post I talked about about the GREASE-FALL, which is “how to distribute the fats in order to obtain a specific kind of cream”.
In this post, I am exploring a more technical aspect of the “Grease Fall”: the specific fatty acid profiles within natural fats (oils and butters). In my research, understanding these profiles is essential for tailoring a formula’s behavior, particularly when exploring theory related to blemish-prone skin.
The Common Fatty Acids in Cosmetics
The fatty acids found in cosmetic raw materials are generally categorized by their chemical structure:
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Saturated Fatty Acids: (e.g., Palmitic, Stearic, Lauric acid).
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Monounsaturated Fatty Acids: (e.g., Palmitoleic, Oleic acid).
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Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs): (e.g., Linoleic/Omega-6, Alpha-linolenic/Omega-3).
Saturated fatty acids are predominantly found in butters. Chemically, these molecules sit very closely together, which explains why these fats remain solid at room temperature. In my experiments, I’ve noted that a high concentration of Stearic Acid can contribute to the “white-trail” effect (soaping) during application. While this doesn’t impact the quality of the emulsion, it is a sensory detail I track in my lab notes.
Unsaturated fatty acids have a molecular shape that prevents them from packing tightly, keeping them liquid at room temperature.
The “Marketing vs. Chemistry” Reality
One of the most important lessons in my formulation journey is that many oils marketed as “exotic” often share nearly identical fatty acid profiles with much cheaper alternatives. For example, my research shows that Almond, Macadamia, and Hazelnut oils have very similar compositions despite their different price points. Before sourcing an expensive oil, I now cross-reference its fatty acid content to ensure I am not paying for a “magic” story that the chemistry doesn’t support.
Theoretical Correlation: Fats and Acne-Prone Skin
In my study of dermatological literature, I have found research suggesting a correlation between sebum composition and acne. These studies indicate that sebum in acne-prone individuals often shows a higher percentage of monounsaturated fatty acids (specifically Oleic acid) relative to polyunsaturated fatty acids.
Theoretical Risks of Oleic Acid:
High levels of Oleic acid are theorized to increase calcium ions ($Ca^{2+}$) on the skin’s surface, which may lead to higher keratinization (clogged pores). For this reason, when I am designing a formula for my experiments, I consider this disparity carefully.
Applying the Theory: My “Grease Fall” Strategy
When formulating for “theory batches” targeting blemish-prone skin, my goal is to balance the “grease fall” with a focus on Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs).
My Experimental Approach:
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Butters: I keep these at a low percentage (0.5–1%)—just enough for the cream’s consistency and density.
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Oil Selection: I choose oils with low Oleic and Palmitoleic content, prioritizing those rich in Linoleic and Alpha-Linolenic acids.
Based on my lab records, here are some oils that theoretically provide higher PUFA content:
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Hemp, Borage, and Evening Primrose oils
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Grape seed, Raspberry, and Safflower oils
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Sunflower and Soy oils (the most accessible options)
Regarding butters, while they are naturally high in saturates, some options like Murumuru, Coconut, and Tucuma theoretically contain lower levels of oleic acid compared to others.
IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS 