Category: Formulating Cosmetics

Posts about Cosmetic Chemistry and Formulation as well as Formulas

Anti-puffiness Caffeine Eye cream – Recipe

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LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

The skin of the eye area is very delicate and thin.

The “Prince Ingredient” of this cream I have formulated is CAFFEINE, which is traditionally used in eye-area formulations for its well-known de-puffing and stimulating propertie
Read the post about caffeine to know how to use it in cosmetics.

FORMULA: 

KEEP ON READING

How to make foot & hand cream: formulating!

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

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Formulating a Protective Barrier Cream (Hands & Feet)

In this experimental batch, I am documenting the creation of a high-lipid barrier cream designed for hands and feet. These areas require a specific “Heavy Emollient” profile—thick, protective, and highly hydrating. My goal was to achieve a 25% lipid load while maintaining a stable, professional texture.

Phase A: Rheology and Electrolyte Stability

In my lab notes, the choice of gelling agent for this formula was dictated by the active ingredients in Phase C.

  • Distilled Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 4.0% (Increased humectant levels for extreme dryness).

  • Xanthan Gum: 0.5% Technical Observation: I opted for a relatively high percentage of Xanthan Gum as the sole stabilizer. I purposely avoided Carbomer polymers because the high concentration of Urea (an electrolyte) in Phase C would compromise the carbomer’s lattice, leading to viscosity loss.

Phase B: The Heavy “Grease-Fall” and Protective Waxes

For a hand/foot treatment, the lipid profile shifts toward the “heavy” end of the Gaussian distribution.

  • The Lipid Cascade: I prioritized hard butters (Cocoa and Shea) to provide structure and occlusion.

  • The Role of Waxes: I’ve introduced Jojoba Wax at 2%. Waxes are not strictly part of the “Grease-Fall” fluidity; instead, they function as film-formers, providing a protective “glove” effect against environmental stressors.

Experimental Oil Phase (25% total fats):

  • Jojoba Wax: 2.0%

  • Cocoa Butter: 5.0%

  • Shea Butter: 10.0%

  • Argan Oil: 5.0%

  • Grape Seed Oil: 5.0%

Phase C: Managing Urea and pH Stability

Phase C contains the “Hero” ingredients, but they require careful chemical management.

  • Urea (10%): A potent humectant known for its water-binding and keratolytic (exfoliating) properties.

  • Gluconolactone (2%): In my research, Urea is known to cause a pH drift (becoming more alkaline over time). To counter this, I’ve included Gluconolactone as a buffering/sequestering agent to maintain pH stability.

  • Texture Modifier: I added Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (1%) to mitigate the greasiness of the 25% fat load, resulting in a matte, “velvet” after-feel.

My Batch Processing Workflow

  1. Hydration: I dispersed the Xanthan Gum in Glycerin before adding the water (setting aside 15g for the urea solution).

  2. Thermal Phase: Both Phase A and Phase B were heated to 70°C.

  3. Emulsification: Phase B was incorporated into Phase A in three stages using an immersion mixer.

  4. Urea Integration: Once the emulsion cooled to room temperature, I dissolved the Urea and Gluconolactone in the reserved 15g of water and integrated this into the base.

  5. Final Finish: I added the preservative, essential oils (Grapefruit and Mint), and a touch of food-grade coloring for aesthetic appeal.

Final QC Check: The pH was measured and found to be stable between 5.5 and 6.0.

Formulating lotion: Phase C & ACTIVE INGREDIENTS- THEORY pt.6

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Phase C and the Theory of Active Ingredients

In my formulation journey, the “Cool Down” phase—Phase C—is where the personality of the product is truly defined. While Phase A and B provide the structure, Phase C requires the most precision because the ingredients are often sensitive to thermal degradation.

The “Cool Down” Protocol

In my lab, I typically transition to Phase C once the emulsion temperature drops below 40°C. My standard Phase C components include:

  • Preservatives: Usually integrated at 0.5% to 1%, following the specific activity range noted on the manufacturer’s Technical Data Sheet.

  • Aesthetics: Fragrance or Essential Oils are kept at roughly 2 drops per 100g for facial applications to minimize irritation potential.

  • Active Ingredients: To maintain emulsion stability, I aim to keep the total active load under 10% of the total formula.

Technical Observations on Active Categories

1. Antioxidants & The Synergy Effect

Theory suggests that combining multiple antioxidants, such as Vitamin E (Tocopherol) and Resveratrol, creates a more robust defense against oxidation than using a single ingredient. In my records, I prioritize these “antioxidant cocktails” to extend the theoretical life of the lipids in the formula.

2. Acids and Exfoliants (pH Management)

Ingredients like Citric or Lactic acid serve two purposes in my notes: adjusting the final pH or providing chemical exfoliation.

  • Safety Threshold: Research indicates that chemical exfoliants (Glycolic, Salicylic) can increase photosensitivity. My experimental batches containing these are strictly categorized for nighttime use and kept away from the delicate eye and lip areas.

3. Targeting Oily Skin (The Niacinamide Constraint)

Niacinamide is a staple in my blemish-prone skin research (used at 1–4%). However, I’ve documented a strict stability requirement: the pH must remain between 5.0 and 5.5. If the environment becomes too acidic or alkaline, Niacinamide can convert into Nicotinic Acid, which is known to cause skin flushing.

4. Humectants & Soothing Agents

For an “extra boost” of hydration, I look toward Hyaluronic Acid and Allantoin.

  • Solubility Note: Allantoin is notoriously difficult to work with (soluble only at 0.4%). In my lab, I’ve recorded that improper dissolution can lead to “grit” or precipitation in the final texture.

  • Soothing: My preferred soothing agents are Bisabolol and Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) at up to 2%.

5. Vasoprotective Theory (Eye Area)

In my eye-area experiments, I focus on Caffeine (up to 2%) and Escin. These are traditionally studied for their vasoprotective properties, targeting the appearance of puffiness through localized drainage.

Formulator’s Warning: Sourcing and Purity

A vital lesson in my research is that marketing names can be deceptive.

  • The Q10 Case Study: Pure Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) is used at a very low 0.1%, but even at this level, it turns a cream distinctly yellow. A pure white commercial Q10 cream suggests a much lower concentration.

  • SDS Review: I always review the Safety Data Sheet (SDS). For example, “Liquid Q10” is often a pre-diluted blend, meaning the actual concentration of active material is much lower than the bottle indicates.

Formulating a lotion: Fatty Acids and ACNE

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Fatty Acid Profiles and Formulation Theory

In the last post I talked about about the GREASE-FALL, which is “how to distribute the fats in order to obtain a specific kind of cream”.
In my formulation research, understanding the specific fatty acid profiles within natural fats is essential for tailoring a formula’s behavior. This is especially true when exploring theory related to blemish-prone skin and how we balance the “Grease Fall.”

The Common Fatty Acids in Cosmetics

The fatty acids found in cosmetic raw materials are categorized by their chemical structure, which dictates how they feel on the skin and their state at room temperature.

  • Saturated Fatty Acids: (e.g., Palmitic, Stearic, Lauric acid). These molecules sit very closely together, making the fats solid at room temperature. In my experiments, a high concentration of Stearic Acid often contributes to the “white-trail” (soaping) effect during application.

  • Monounsaturated Fatty Acids: (e.g., Palmitoleic, Oleic acid).

  • Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs): (e.g., Linoleic/Omega-6, Alpha-linolenic/Omega-3). These have a molecular shape that prevents them from packing tightly, keeping them liquid.

The “Marketing vs. Chemistry” Reality

One of the most important lessons in my journey is that many “exotic” oils share nearly identical fatty acid profiles with much cheaper alternatives.

  • Almond, Macadamia, and Hazelnut oils have very similar compositions despite vastly different price points.

    In my lab, I now cross-reference fatty acid content to ensure the chemistry—not the marketing story—supports the formula.

Theoretical Correlation: Fats and Acne-Prone Skin

Research suggests a correlation between sebum composition and acne: sebum in acne-prone individuals often shows a higher percentage of monounsaturated fatty acids (specifically Oleic acid) relative to polyunsaturated fatty acids.

Theoretical Risks of Oleic Acid:

High levels of Oleic acid are theorized to increase calcium ions ($Ca^{2+}$) on the skin’s surface, which may lead to higher keratinization (clogged pores). This is a critical disparity I consider during formulation design.

Applying the Theory: My “Grease Fall” Strategy

When targeting blemish-prone skin in “theory batches,” I focus on balancing the “grease fall” with high-PUFA oils.

My Experimental Approach:

  1. Butters: Kept at a low percentage (0.5–1%) for consistency without adding excessive heaviness.

  2. Oil Selection: Prioritizing oils low in Oleic acid and rich in Linoleic and Alpha-Linolenic acids.

High-PUFA Oil Reference:

  • Specialty: Hemp, Borage, and Evening Primrose oils.

  • Functional: Grape seed, Raspberry, and Safflower oils.

  • Accessible: Sunflower and Soy oils.

For butters, I look toward Murumuru, Coconut, and Tucuma, as they theoretically contain lower levels of oleic acid compared to traditional heavier butters.

Formulating a lotion: Choosing the fats – THEORY pt.5

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Observations on Lipid Selection & The “Grease-Fall” Theory

The Anatomy of the Oil Phase

In my formulation journey, I’ve found that simply deciding on a total percentage of fats isn’t enough. The true character of a cream depends on how those fats are distributed. I’ve been documenting how different lipid profiles impact the sensory “touch” of an emulsion.

When selecting lipids for a project, I’ve learned to ignore “miraculous” marketing claims and focus purely on technical data:

  • Density: How “heavy” the oil is (e.g., Castor oil at 0.96 vs. Jojoba at 0.86).

  • Spreading Ability: How the oil moves across the skin.

  • Absorption Profile: How the skin feels 10–15 minutes after application.

  • Fatty Acid Composition: (Documented in my separate lipids post).

Note: The data below represents my personal summary and observations. I’ve found that these classifications help me predict the final “vibe” of my experiments.

Technical Observations: Spreading & Absorption

In my lab experiments, I’ve noticed that “Light” oils are often the most deceptive. While they spread fast and seem to disappear, they can often “re-emerge” on the skin surface after a few minutes, leaving a greasy residue if not balanced correctly.

My Reference Scale for Spreading:

  • Very Dense (DD): Wheat Germ (Thick, slow movement).

  • Dense (D): Peanut oil.

  • Medium (MD/M): Olive and Almond oils (Standard “reliable” spread).

  • Fluid (Fl/L): Borage and Sunflower oils (High velocity, fast spread).

My Reference for Absorption (The “After-Feel”):

  • Greasy/Oily: Wheat Germ, Macadamia, Olive.

  • Medium: Argan.

  • High Absorption: Jojoba, Sunflower.

The “Grease-Fall” Rule (Cascading Emollients)

The “Grease-Fall” is the theory I use to balance these different densities. I’ve realized that using only light oils for oily skin, or only heavy butters for dry skin, actually backfires.

  • The Problem with Only Light Oils: The cream spreads too fast and leaves the skin feeling unprotected and eventually oily again.

  • The Problem with Only Heavy Butters: The cream becomes difficult to spread, creates a “white-trail” effect, and feels suffocating rather than hydrating.

The Theory: Every balanced emulsion requires a “cascade”—a mix of all densities to ensure the cream feels good at the moment of application, during the rub-in, and 20 minutes later.

Experimental Case Studies

Case A: Theory for Dry Skin (Target: 12% Fats) In this experiment, I aimed for richness but wanted to maintain spreadability. I modeled the “Grease-Fall” using a Gaussian-style distribution:

  • 1% Beeswax: (High density/Low spread) For protection and “richness.”

  • 6% Butters: (e.g., Shea/Mango) For emollience.

  • 3% Argan Oil: (Medium-Rich).

  • 1% Borage Oil: (Medium).

  • 1% Jojoba Oil: (Very light/High spread).

Case B: Theory for Oily Skin (Target: 5% Fats) Balancing a low-fat cream is harder, but I still try to maintain a professional “cascade”:

  • 2% Jojoba: (Light ester) For the initial “fast” feel.

  • 1.5% Sunflower: (Light) For absorption.

  • 1% Black Currant: (Medium-Light).

  • 0.5% Shea Butter: Even at this tiny amount, I find it helps the cream feel more “complete” and less watery.

Conclusion

This “Grease-Fall” approach is now a standard part of my lab records. By balancing the cascade, the emulsion feels stable and sophisticated. I’ll continue to refine these percentages in my future “Step-by-Step” documentation.

Formulating a lotion: Phase B – THEORY pt.4

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Observations on Phase B (The Heated Oil Phase)

In my formulation records, Phase B is documented as the “Heated Oil Phase.” This stage of the process is critical for stability, as it typically requires heating to approximately 70°C to ensure all solid components are fully melted and ready for emulsification.

Component 1: Emulsifiers

In my study of emulsions, I’ve noted that emulsifiers are the “bridge” between water and oil. While cold-process emulsifiers exist, the majority of the professional-grade materials in my lab require heating to create a stable lattice. I categorize them based on their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) and their thermal requirements.

Component 2: Co-Emulsifiers & Thickeners

Thickeners provide the structural “skeleton” of the cream. In my experiments, I use lipophilic thickeners like Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, or Cetearyl Alcohol.

  • Experimental Observation: These ingredients usually arrive in “pearl” or “pellet” form and must be fully integrated into the oil phase at heat.
  • Consistency Ratios: In my standard test batches, I typically aim for a total thickener concentration of around 1%. I’ve found that a 1:1 ratio of Cetyl Alcohol (0.5%) and Cetearyl Palmitate (0.5%) provides a particularly elegant skin feel.
  • Note on Compound Emulsifiers: I’ve learned to be cautious with “all-in-one” emulsifiers like Montanov 68 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside). Since this blend already contains a thickener (the alcohol), adding extra thickeners in my notes would result in a lumpy, over-processed texture.

Component 3: The Lipid Load (Fats & Oils)

Before starting a “Theory Batch,” I define the purpose of the formula. The percentage of fats determines the final viscosity and intended skin type.

My Working Guidelines for Oil-in-Water (O/W) Emulsions:

I have developed a scale for my experiments to determine the lipid percentage based on the target application:

Total Fats (%) Experimental Intent / Skin Type
0% – 2% Aqueous Gels (Oily skin/Summer use)
2% – 4.5% Ultra-light “Oil-Free” feel
4.5% – 7.5% Light facial creams
8% – 12% Standard “Normal Skin” balance
12% – 15% Rich facial creams / Dry skin theory
15% – 20% Light to medium body lotions
25% Barrier creams / Hand & Foot treatments

In my lab, I prioritize an ingredient’s technical profile over its marketing story. It is a common “trap” to choose an oil based on expensive, exotic claims (like the fictional “Khtululu Oil”).

My research consistently shows that efficacy is not always correlated with cost. Instead of searching for “miraculous” properties, my lab notes focus on:

  1. Viscosity 
  2. Density 
  3. Spreading Velocity

A successful oil phase is not about the “rarest” oil, but about the Grease-Fall—the strategic blending of different densities to create a professional user experience.

(Sources)

Formulating a lotion: Phase A – THEORY pt.3

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Observations on Phase A (The Aqueous Phase)

In my formulation journey, Phase A (The Water Phase) is the foundation of every emulsion. My standard procedure usually involves heating this phase to 70°C in a double boiler. This ensures that when Phase A and Phase B are combined, they are at the same temperature, which is a prerequisite for a stable emulsion with the heat-required emulsifiers I typically use.

Component 1: The Solvent (Water & Hydrosols)

I’ve recorded that any standard lotion requires a water content of at least 70%. While I sometimes experiment with herbal hydrosols for their delicate scent, my research suggests that their volatile properties can be sensitive to the high heat required for emulsification. In my lab, I prioritize investing in active ingredients rather than expensive floral waters.

Component 2: Humectants (Glycerin)

Glycerin is a staple in my lab because it is highly hygroscopic, meaning it possesses the chemical ability to attract and bind water molecules.

  • Experimental Observations: Glycerin prevents the final product from drying out. However, my notes show that exceeding certain percentages can lead to a “tacky” or “shiny” finish on the skin.
  • My Working Percentages:
    • 1.5%: Minimum for blemish-prone/oily skin theory.
    • 2.0% – 3.5%: Standard for normal to dry skin batches.
    • 4.0% – 5.0%: Targeted for body lotions where higher hydration is the goal.

Component 3: Rheology Modifiers (Gelling Agents)

I use gelling agents not just for texture, but as essential stabilizers for the emulsion. Here are my personal notes on the polymers I’ve tested:

Xanthan Gum

A reliable polysaccharide that remains stable even in the presence of electrolytes (salts).

  • Observation: Using high percentages (>0.5%) can lead to a “pilling” effect or a film-forming sensation that feels occlusive.
  • My Method: I disperse the gum in glycerin first to avoid “fish-eyes” (lumps), then slowly incorporate water.

Carbopol® Ultrez 21 (Carbomer)

This is one of my favorite polymers for creating elegant, crystal-clear gels with a “premium” skin feel and zero “soaping” (white-trail) effect.

  • Stability Constraints: I’ve documented that this polymer is highly sensitive to electrolytes (like Sodium Hyaluronate/Hyaluronic Acid) and requires a pH of approximately 6.0 to fully “bloom” and thicken.
  • My Method: I sprinkle the polymer on the surface of the water and allow it to self-wet (hydrate) without stirring to avoid air entrapment.
  • The Neutralization Process: Because the polymer is acidic, the water remains liquid until I add a neutralizing agent (like a 10% Sodium Hydroxide solution). I typically blend this with Xanthan Gum (0.2% Xanthan / 0.4% Carbomer) for a “best of both worlds” stability profile.

Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC)

A non-ionic gelling agent that I use when a formula requires high electrolyte stability or a specific “stringy” viscosity.

  • Observation: Unlike the others, I’ve found that HEC requires heat (70°C) to fully hydrate and thicken.
  • My Method: I add it to pre-heated water while stirring vigorously, followed by a short burst with an immersion mixer to ensure a smooth, lump-free gel.

(Sources)