Babassu Body Cream – Recipe

Hello there! 😀

I did make the new face cream of which I was talking about in the last post but I will post that recipe a little later: I want to test it first and be able to give you the review as well.

[IF YOU ARE NEW here, you might want to check the theory of how to make “as close as professional” creams at home 😀 you can do it HERE at the site index! And don’t be scared thinking “I cannot do it”, “it is too complicated” because everything looks complicated before you learn it 😀 so grit your teeth for a while and enjoy later 😉 On the same page there is also a link to my post where I show you where you can buy cosmetic ingredients online! 😀 ]

The recipe of today will be of a BODY CREAM, made with a new (to this blog) emulsifier! 😀
Usually in body creams there is not too much need for active ingredients (or this, however, is my opinion) because it is already good enough if we have the consistency of applying the cream everyday 😉 however I choose to add in this cream precious fats like the Babassu oil and Shea Butter.

Are you ready for the recipe??? 😀

Babassu Body Cream


Silky Body Cream


Hello there!

I am back with a new extra fast recipe for a silky silky body cream!!! 😀


The key ingredient of this recipe is Sodium Polyacrilate! (Wikipedia says: “also known as waterlock, is a sodium salt of polyacrylic acid with the chemical formula [-CH2-CH(COONa)-]n and broad application in consumer products. It has the ability to absorb as much as 200 to 300 times its mass in water.”)


Autumn Dream – Face Cream

Autumn Cream 13

I don’t even know how I came up with such a cheesy name for this cream, but let me admit that I ALMOST feel like a poet! 😀 (well ok, I might be joking here… 😉 )

I had promised that I would have finally posted the recipe and the “how to – pictures” of the autumn cream I am using right now… so here it is! 😀
It is my “autumn” cream because it has a bit higher % of fats compared to the cream I make for summer, and also because, since I have utterly sensitive skin which happily gets all red and paining with the first colds, I have added a lot of active ingredients with soothing properties! 😀
Since my “perfect fat % for autumn cream” is indeed a very personal thing, I will add in the recipe few modifications you can do in case you have normal or dry skin! (after all, lotion making is all about being able to make what suits ourselves best! 😉 ).


Pink Sugar Frosting Body Lotion (Recipe)

Hello everybody! 😀

Today I am going to share with you a recipe for a body cream.


[If you are new to the making of lotions at home… you might want to run here! 😀
If you already know the basics but miss the ingredients you might want to read the post about where to buy cosmetic ingredients online (here!) 😀 ]

I made this cream for a good friend who just requested a good body cream for dry skin.
My intention was to get a very emollient cream (which often means “an important and well studied oily phase”) with few active ingredients to do good to the skin (we don’t want to use active ingredients only on our face: we can afford to use some also on the rest of our body 😉 ).

How I proceeded:
Picking the oils: being a body cream I wasn’t too concerned about using comedogenic oils or butters. This is why I used a 5% of Shea Butter (which, whatever you read online, is comedogenic due to its fatty acid composition… In case, you can read more about it here) without thinking twice. Shea butter is heaven for the skin of our body. As medium density oil I added Borage oil and Safflower oil, but the main part of my “Grease-Fall” was made of light and extra light oils (to be really honest Jojoba oil is a wax and the other two were synthetic oils which have the very good property of improving the feel of the cream on the skin. If you want to use only natural oils I will add options at the end of the post on how to change the recipe 😀 ).


Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe


This is a cream made specifically for oily skin and for spring days! 😀
There are two important active ingredients in this cream which will perform the function of oil-controllers:
– Azelaic Acid 
– Tiolisine 

The Azelaic Acid however is insoluble in water or oil therefore it is very difficult for us to use it in our home production (you can find it in online shops of raw materials but I don’t know how it could be used since it is impossible to melt it or dissolve it properly in any liquid)… this is why in this recipe I have used a derivative of Azelaic Acid called Azeloglicine (it contains approx 30% of Azelaic Acid in a hydrophilic form! Bingo! :D).
Azelaic Acid is mainly used for its oil-control properties but it is also used to treat acne (both comedonal and inflammatory) because it kills the bacteria which cause acne and it also decreases the production of keratin which is a substance that promotes the growth of bacteria.
Tiolisine is a sulfurated aminoacid derivative which also has sebum-normalizing properties and it is usually used between 2-4% (3-5% in detergents like shampoo for dandruff).

The recipe I have made for this cream is as simple as possible.
Now I write the recipe and then I explain some more things:

RECIPE: [in case you are new to the making of creams, HERE you can learn what I am talking about ;)]
water to 100 (HERE the explanation)
xanthan gum 0.11 (possibly not the transparent kind: for gels the transparent xanthan gum is good, for creams the other is better)
carbopol ultrez 21 0.3
glycerin 2.5

Methyl glucose sesquistearate 2 (I use this low percentage because the oils in this cream are very low)
Cetyl Alcohol 0.8
Cetiol sensoft 1.5
Evening Primrose Oil 1
Hemp oil 0.5
Tocopherol 1

PHASE C 1 : 
Bisabolol 0.5
Dry Flo (INCI aluminum starch octenyl succinate) 0.7

Azeloglicine 6
Tiolisine Complex 2.5

Preservative 0.6 (or according to the right percentage of use of your own preservative).

Adjust the pH at 5.5 – 6
The oil percentage is so low it could be considered an oil-free cream.
The consistency of the cream is rather fluid: I always have the feeling that thick creams are more suitable for dry skins (at least this is the feeling I get: if a cream is thick, I unconsciously associate it with the idea of a “too rich” cream for an oily skin), while fluid lotions give me better the idea of something light. So this is all up to you (if you want a thick cream you can rise the cetyl alcohol up to 1.5%… but since this is like a wax on our skin, I don’t recommend it :D).
Cetiol Sensoft is a very light synthetic oil which gives a smooth touch to the cream. If you want to avoid using synthetic oils and you wish to use only natural oils, you could substitute this ingredient with the same amount of jojoba oil (which is a bit more dense but it is the lightest natural “oil”).

Hope this was helpful to those of you who have trouble with oily skin!
Let me know if it worked for you 😉


Hair Conditioner Recipe (and THEORY)

Hair Conditioner Recipe


Hello 😀
Today I would like to show you a basic recipe for a good Hair Conditioner 🙂
The formulation for a lotion and an hair conditioner are similar but not same: there are some basic differences that, if not followed, might make you fail.

There is still a Phase A and a Phase B BUT! while in the making of a lotion you add the heated Phase B to the heated Phase A… here you MUST do the opposite!
You must pour the Phase A into the Phase B. This is very important!

The second difference is that there is not a proper Phase C because every extra ingredient (which should be added when the Phase A and B are already emulsified and at room temperature) has to be added singularly… ONE BY ONE! 🙂

Apart from these two big differences, however, everything else is quite same! 🙂

Phase A:
Water to 100 (explanation HERE)
Glycerin 3
Guar Hydroxypropultrimonium Chloride 0.1 (this is a very good ingredient in a hair conditioner or even in a shampoo, but don’t use it at higher concentration than 0.1-0.15% – However if you don’t have it, you can use instead a water where you had infused Mallow or Flax Seeds)
Heat this phase up to 75° (absolutely check the termometer!)

Phase B:
Esterquat 8 (this is a CATIONIC emulsifier, therefore it is different from the emulsifiers which we have in our lotions. It is important that you use an emulsifier specifically for hair conditioning 🙂 this substance in the specific is very good because it is eco-friendly 😉 )
Jojoba oil 2
cetyl alcohol 3.5
stearic acid 1.5
Heat this phase up to 70°

“Phase C” (but remember you have to add them one by one and in this order)
Hydrolized wheat protein 3
Panthenol 1
Poliquaternium-7 2 (this enhances the conditioning ability. If you don’t have it you can skip it)
Preservative 0.5-0.6 (or whichever concentration the preservative you are using needs to be!)
Fragrance oil or Essential oil depending on your taste 😀


Have a great day!!! 😀



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How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.2 – THEORY

In the previous post about emulsifiers we talked about their HLB which, at the end of the day, only tells us wether an emulsifier is more lipophilic or more hydrophilic.
What we, more importantly, need to know about our emulsifier is
– how to use it (hot or cold process)
– and at which percentage.

This is not same for every emulsifier. Even with the same HLB, the ability of an emulsifier can be totally different (and therefore we might need to add to our cream more or less of it).

These information we can collect easily in the moment we purchase our emulsifier: who sells them know the percentage of use and usually posts it on the page of the product (if it is not written there, you could always send them an e-mail and ask for more details about their product. If they don’t know or don’t reply… well, change supplier and buy from a well informed one 😀 ).

However I have decided to put together a small guideline about emulsifiers.

The biggest difference is wether the emulsifier has to be used in hot process or cold process.
An emulsifier which needs to be heated up to 70° is usually solid, normally sold in pearls and his ability to emulsify is only at 70°C. If the two phases we are trying to emulsify do not reach this temperature… well, the emulsion will separate soon enough. So bear in mind to properly check the temperature of your two phases before you mix them (you don’t want to waste precious ingredients nor time, do you? 😀 ).
Since the highest number of emulsifiers work at 70°C, you have to simply follow the process which I already explained in the beginning: you heat up the two phases, you pour the phase B into the phase A and mix with an immersion mixer, once it looks emulsified very well you keep stirring with a spatula until the lotion cools down completely and eventually add your phase C.
There is an huge number of these emulsifiers.

Always remember that these emulsifiers can be more lipophilic or more hydrophilic… or can even be self-emulsifying (which means they already contain both lipophilic and hydrophilic emulsifiers) so always check their composition to find out if they need a co-emulsifier or not (you can, once again, find this specific information from the website where you order your supplies!).
Just to make an example of the two most easily found emulsifiers:
– Methyl glucose sesquistearate – needs to be used at 3%, needs to be heated up to 70°C to work and is more hydrophilic so it needs a co-emulsifier which will be lipophilic (for instance cetyl-alcohol at 1% will do).
– Montanov 68 – this is a self-emulsifier. If you read its composition it already contains both the lipophilic and the hydrophilic emulsifiers: Cetaryl alcohol,Cetearyl Glucoside. It is usually added at 4% to a cream and needs to be heated up to 70°C.
Even if it might sound more difficult, having to mix your own two emulsifiers gives you better results in your cream (at least once you get the grip of it and realize what is the effect of each emulsifier in the final lotion).
If you want to follow a good advice, you should make different experiments with just water (gelled water) and a very cheap oil in a fixed amount and different emulsifiers, if you do this, you will be able to experience the different effect each emulsifier gives to your cream. This is a very important experiment if you want to be aware of which emulsifier does what… (and in the moment you decide to formulate a cream these notions will be very important!).

The “no heat” emulsifiers, instead, are usually liquid (normally very dense). They simply need to be added to phase B and, unless you are using rather difficult active ingredients (meaning that these active ingredients should be added alone in the end of the process), the phase A might contain also the phase C.
Once again you simply pour phase B into phase A and you mix with your immersion mixer until the lotion is formed.
Just one note: usually creams made with “no heat” emulsifiers are not very emollient and rich. This is due to the fact that, since the emulsifier cannot be heated up, you cannot use butters in your cream.
However SOME “no heat” emulsifiers (that, let me repeat again, just mean that the emulsifier will have emulsifying power even at normal temperature) DO bear heating. If you use such an emulsifier you can heat up the phase B in order to melt the butters (let’s say shea butter for example… which doesn’t need a high temperature to melt!) and then you can combine phase B to phase A and normally create your lotion.
If you want to do so, you should be able to get information about your “no heat” emulsifier, once again, right from your supplier. 🙂

This is all about the emulsifiers.
Let me know if you have any more specific questions about them.

Have a great day! 😀