Category: Creams

Pink Sugar Frosting Body Lotion (Recipe)

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

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Silk-Touch Body Cream

Hello Hello! 😀 My goal for this one was to make a super emollient cream—the kind that feels really luxurious on the skin. I didn’t want to pack it with a million actives; I just wanted it to do good for the body! We spend so much time on our faces, but our body skin deserves some love too, right? 😉

The “Grease-Fall” (My Oil Selection):

Since this is for the body, I wasn’t worried about oils being comedogenic. I used 5% Shea Butter (which is comedogenic, whatever you read online! :P) because it is absolute heaven for body skin.

For the rest, I created a “Grease-Fall” using light and extra light oils. Most of these are synthetic or waxes (like Jojoba) because they make the cream feel so much better on the skin. If you want only natural oils, it won’t feel quite as silky, but Jojoba gets you pretty close!

The Formula:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 5

  • Carbopol Ultrez 21 – 0.1 (A little gelling agent to keep it bouncy!)

Phase B (The “No-Heat” Emulsifier):

  • Abil Care 85 – 2 (This is a silicone-based emulsifier. I don’t use it on my face because it gives me tiny pimples, but for the body? I totally enjoy it! It makes the cream velvety and it’s almost impossible to fail with it! :D)

  • Tinovis ADE – 1.5 (This is the thickener/gel maker that works at room temperature—no heating needed, yeheee!)

  • Shea Butter – 5

  • Safflower Oil – 3

  • Borage Oil – 3

  • Jojoba Oil – 5

  • Dicaprylyl Ether – 5 (Extra light synthetic oil)

  • Cetiol Sensoft – 5 (The lightest oil ever—it feels like silicone but it isn’t!)

  • Tocopherol – 1 (Vitamin E)

Phase C (The Actives):

  • Allantoin – 0.35

  • Oat Hydrolyzed Proteins – 1.65 * Panthenol – 1 (Vitamin B5)

  • Preservative (The amount needed for yours!)

  • Fragrance Oil (I used “Pink Sugar” from Gracefruit… mmm! :D)

Notes from the Beaker:

  1. The Allantoin Hack: Allantoin can be a pain to dissolve—it gets gritty! But I found a trick: if you mix it with the hydrolyzed proteins first, it melts in so fast! That does the trick every time! 😀

  2. No Double Boiler: Since I used Abil Care 85 and Tinovis ADE, I didn’t have to heat anything up! It’s a fast way to get a professional texture.

  3. Mixing: I just poured Phase A into Phase B and mixed. It gets thick and silky almost instantly.

  4. Substitution Note: If you swap the emulsifier for one that does need heat, you have to move the Tinovis to Phase C because it hates heat!

Final Verdict: I am so satisfied with the “Silk-Touch” on this one. It’s emollient without being a sticky mess. ENJOY!!! 😀

Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe

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LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Lab Note: The “Oil-Control” Spring Fluid

Hello Hello! 😀 With the spring days finally arriving, I wanted to formulate something light. This cream is specifically designed for oily skin that needs hydration without the weight. In fact, the oil percentage is so low it’s almost an “oil-free” cream!

The Oil-Control Duo:

  • Azeloglicine (6%): Pure Azelaic Acid is a nightmare to work with at home because it won’t dissolve in water or oil. Bingo! Azeloglicine is the answer. It’s a hydrophilic derivative that kills acne-causing bacteria and normalizes sebum.

  • Tiolisine Complex (2.5%): A sulfurated amino acid derivative that is a powerhouse for sebum-normalizing.

The Formula: Spring Oil-Control Fluid

Phase A (The Gel Base):

  • Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 2.5

  • Xanthan Gum (Non-transparent): 0.11

  • Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.3

Phase B (The Light Oily Phase):

  • Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 2.0 (Low % for a low-oil formula)

  • Cetyl Alcohol: 0.8 (Kept low to avoid a “waxy” feel)

  • Cetiol Sensoft: 1.5 (A very light synthetic oil for a smooth touch)

  • Evening Primrose Oil: 1.0

  • Hemp Oil: 0.5

  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0

Phase C1 (The “Dry” Finish):

  • Bisabolol: 0.5 (Soothing)

  • Dry Flo: 0.7 (Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate—for a matte finish!)

Phase C2 (The Actives):

  • Azeloglicine: 6.0

  • Tiolisine Complex: 2.5

  • Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0

  • Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. Consistency Matters: I intentionally made this a fluid lotion rather than a thick cream. For oily skin, thick textures can “feel” too rich or heavy. I prefer a light, milky fluid that sinks in immediately!

  2. The Wax Factor: If you want it thicker, you could raise the Cetyl Alcohol to 1.5%, but I don’t recommend it for oily skin—it can start to feel like a wax layer on your face.

  3. Active Power: Because Azeloglicine is water-soluble, it’s so much easier to incorporate into Phase C than trying to fight with pure Azelaic acid powder. It keeps the cream smooth and professional.

Final Verdict: This is my go-to when the weather gets warmer. It keeps the shine away while treating any little breakouts with the Tiolisine and Azeloglicine. It’s light, smooth, and fresh!

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😀 😀 😀

Hair Conditioner Recipe (and THEORY)

Hair Conditioner Recipe

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Theory & Practice: The Basic Hair Conditioner

Hello Hello! :D Today I want to show you a foundational recipe for a high-performance hair conditioner.

Making a conditioner is similar to making a skin lotion, but there are some critical differences in the technique. If you don’t follow these, your conditioner might fail or separate!

The Two Golden Rules of Conditioner:

  1. The Pour: In a lotion, we usually pour the Oil (B) into the Water (A). In a conditioner, you MUST pour the Water (Phase A) into the Oil (Phase B). This is vital for the cationic emulsion!

  2. Phase C: There isn’t a “block” Phase C. You must add every extra ingredient SINGULARLY, ONE BY ONE, once the emulsion is at room temperature.

The Formula: Eco-Friendly Conditioner

Phase A (Water):

  • Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 3.0

  • Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: 0.1 (This is a fantastic detangler! If you don’t have it, you can use a Flaxseed or Mallow infusion instead).

  • Heat to precisely 75°C.

Phase B (The Cationic Base):

  • Esterquat: 8.0 (This is a cationic emulsifier—specifically for hair! It’s great because it’s eco-friendly).

  • Jojoba Oil: 2.0

  • Cetyl Alcohol: 3.5 (For thickness and “slip”)

  • Stearic Acid: 1.5

  • Heat to 70°C.

“Phase C” (Add one by one!):

  • Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: 3.0

  • Panthenol: 1.0

  • Polyquaternium-7: 2.0 (Enhances the conditioning. You can skip it if you don’t have it).

  • Preservative: (According to your product’s dosage, e.g., 0.6%)

  • Fragrance/Essential Oil: To your taste! :D

Notes from my Beaker:

  • The Emulsifier: Unlike face creams, conditioners need a Cationic charge to stick to the hair (which has a negative charge). Esterquat is the perfect choice because it’s much better for the environment than older conditioning agents.

  • Temperature Check: Use your thermometer! If Phase A isn’t hot enough when it hits the Esterquat, the emulsion won’t be as smooth and stable.

  • The Finish: Once you’ve added your ingredients one by one, give it a final slow stir. You’ll notice the texture becomes very creamy and rich.

Final Verdict: This conditioner is simple but very effective. It leaves the hair soft, easy to comb, and static-free without being too heavy.

HAVE A GREAT DAY!!! 😀

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How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.2 – THEORY

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Lab Notes: Hot vs. Cold — How I Choose My Emulsifier

Hello Hello! 😀 I’ve realized that while HLB is a great starting point for my experiments, it doesn’t tell the whole story of how an ingredient behaves once it hits my beaker. In my records, I’ve found that two things matter even more: The Process and The Percentage.

1. My Experience with Hot-Process (The Classics)

Most of the emulsifiers in my cupboard come as solid flakes or pearls. I’ve documented that these almost always need to hit 70°C to really “wake up” and work.

  • Self-Emulsifiers: I use things like Montanov 68 when I want a “complete meal” that works on its own.

  • The “Partnership” Method: I really enjoy pairing a hydrophilic emulsifier with a lipophilic one (like Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate). It gives me so much more control over whether the cream feels “velvet” or “rich.”

  • My Temperature Rule: Sips water. I’ve learned the hard way—if I don’t get both phases to the same temperature, the emulsion might look okay at first, but it will separate by tomorrow!

2. My “No-Heat” Days (The Cold Process)

Sometimes I use liquid emulsifiers that work at room temperature.

  • The Observations: I’ve noticed these usually produce much lighter, fresher textures—perfect for summer experiments!

  • The Lipid Constraint: I have to remind myself that since I’m not using heat, I can’t easily use my solid butters or waxes unless I change the whole plan.

How I Study My Ingredients

I’ve found that the best way for me to learn is by comparing. I like to make a “test base” and swap out only the emulsifier to see how the whiteness and thickness change.

Where I Get My Data

I never guess! I always keep the supplier’s notes on my desk. I look for:

  • The recommended usage (usually 2% to 5%).

  • The melting point. If a supplier doesn’t provide this, I don’t use the material. I need clear info for my records!

Every batch is a new chance to see how these “matchmakers” behave.

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

(Sources)

How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.1 – THEORY

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Lab Notes: Emulsifiers and the HLB Mystery

Hello Hello! 😀

I’ve been spending a lot of time thinking about the “matchmakers” in my beakers: Emulsifiers. I’ve learned that since water and oil naturally want to stay apart, I need a substance that acts like a bridge—something that grabs the water with one hand and the oil with the other to keep them combined.

The “Double Personality” Discovery

I’ve documented that these molecules work because they have a dual nature:

  • One part is Hydrophilic (water-loving).

  • One part is Lipophilic (oil-loving).

The HLB Scale (My Reference Guide)

I used to find the HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) scale a bit intimidating, but I’ve simplified it in my notes. It’s just a scale from 0 to 20 that tells me which side the emulsifier “leans” toward.

[If I feel like skipping the technical parts today… I can! 😄 But for my records, I’m keeping this summary here:]

  • HLB 3–6 (The Oil-Lovers): In my experiments, these usually create W/O (Water-in-Oil) systems. I’ve noticed these are great for heavy, protective ointments.

  • HLB 8–16 (The Water-Lovers): These are my go-to for O/W (Oil-in-Water) lotions. Most of the creams I make fall into this category.

My Emulsifier “Cheat Sheet”:

I’ve compiled this list of values for the materials I have in my cupboard so I don’t have to look them up every time:

  • 4.0 – Lecithin (I’ve even tried the food-grade kind from the supermarket!)

  • 5.0 – Cetyl alcohol (I record this as a lipophilic co-emulsifier to add “body”)

  • 10.0 – Montanov 68 (A self-emulsifier that I’ve found works well on its own)

  • 12.0 – Methylglucose sesquistearate (One of my favorites for light lotions)

  • 16.7 – Polysorbate 20 (I use this mainly when I need to dissolve essential oils into water)

What the Numbers Don’t Tell Me

My biggest takeaway from these experiments is that the HLB number is just the beginning.

  • Thermal requirements: My notes show that the number won’t tell me if I need to hit 70°C or if it’s a cold process.

  • The “Feel”: I still have to get my hands in the beaker to see if the final cream feels “waxy” or “silky.”

(to be continued… 😄)

Anti-puffiness Caffeine Eye cream – Recipe

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LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Lab Note: Caffeine & Ceramide Eye Cream

Hello Hello! :D The skin around our eyes is the thinnest and most delicate on our entire face. For this formula, the “Prince Ingredient” is Caffeine, which I’ve used for its famous stimulating and de-puffing properties.

I wanted this cream to feel light but also “substantial,” so I designed a grease-fall with a bit more butter (Avocado and Shea). This gives it a slightly thicker, more protective feeling while keeping all the fat densities balanced! yeheee!

The Formula: Eye Nutrition

Phase A (The Active Base):

  • Water: to 100
  • Fleur-de-lis Hydrolat: 10.0 (Soothing floral water)
  • Glycerin: 3.0
  • Xanthan Gum: 0.1 / Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.3
  • Caffeine: 2.0 (The “De-puffer”)

Phase B (The Butters & Oils):

  • Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 3.0 (Emulsifier)
  • Cetyl Alcohol / Cetyl Palmitate: 1.0 / 0.5 (Thickeners)
  • Avocado Butter: 1.0 / Shea Butter: 2.0
  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0
  • Argan / Evening Primrose / Jojoba Oil: 1.0 each

Phase C (The Cold Additions):

  • Oily Part: Rose Hip Oil (1.0), Bisabolol (0.5), Mixed Ceramide Complex (2.0)
  • Water Part: Allantoin (0.5), Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (2.0), Blueberry Dry Extract (0.5), Hyaluronic Acid Solution 1% (3.0)
  • Preservative: 1.0
  • Fragrance: 2-3 drops

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The Allantoin Melt: As I always say, Allantoin can be temperamental and leave “grit” in your cream if you aren’t careful. I ensured it was completely “melted” into the hydrolyzed oat proteins before adding it to the cool cream.
  2. Heat Management: I kept the Rose Hip Oil for Phase C because it is quite sensitive to heat. Adding it at room temperature keeps its properties intact!
  3. The Color: The Blueberry Extract is a powder that gives the cream a lovely, soft color (as you can see in the photos!).
  4. Emulsification: I heated A and B to 70°C, poured B into A, and used the immersion mixer until it was a perfect white. Then, the long stir (30 mins!) with a spatula until cool.
  5. The Texture Trick: After adding all of Phase C and the preservative, I used the immersion mixer one last time. This really improved the final texture and made it look professional!
  6. pH Check: For this eye cream, I aimed for a pH of 6.5.

Final Verdict: This cream feels incredibly nourishing. It’s the perfect follow-up to a morning eye serum, providing that barrier of ceramides and butters that keeps the eye area looking rested and hydrated all day long. ENJOY! 😀

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How to make foot & hand cream: formulating!

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

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Formulating a Protective Barrier Cream (Hands & Feet)

In this experimental batch, I am documenting the creation of a high-lipid barrier cream designed for hands and feet. These areas require a specific “Heavy Emollient” profile—thick, protective, and highly hydrating. My goal was to achieve a 25% lipid load while maintaining a stable, professional texture.

Phase A: Rheology and Electrolyte Stability

In my lab notes, the choice of gelling agent for this formula was dictated by the active ingredients in Phase C.

  • Distilled Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 4.0% (Increased humectant levels for extreme dryness).

  • Xanthan Gum: 0.5% Technical Observation: I opted for a relatively high percentage of Xanthan Gum as the sole stabilizer. I purposely avoided Carbomer polymers because the high concentration of Urea (an electrolyte) in Phase C would compromise the carbomer’s lattice, leading to viscosity loss.

Phase B: The Heavy “Grease-Fall” and Protective Waxes

For a hand/foot treatment, the lipid profile shifts toward the “heavy” end of the Gaussian distribution.

  • The Lipid Cascade: I prioritized hard butters (Cocoa and Shea) to provide structure and occlusion.

  • The Role of Waxes: I’ve introduced Jojoba Wax at 2%. Waxes are not strictly part of the “Grease-Fall” fluidity; instead, they function as film-formers, providing a protective “glove” effect against environmental stressors.

Experimental Oil Phase (25% total fats):

  • Jojoba Wax: 2.0%

  • Cocoa Butter: 5.0%

  • Shea Butter: 10.0%

  • Argan Oil: 5.0%

  • Grape Seed Oil: 5.0%

Phase C: Managing Urea and pH Stability

Phase C contains the “Hero” ingredients, but they require careful chemical management.

  • Urea (10%): A potent humectant known for its water-binding and keratolytic (exfoliating) properties.

  • Gluconolactone (2%): In my research, Urea is known to cause a pH drift (becoming more alkaline over time). To counter this, I’ve included Gluconolactone as a buffering/sequestering agent to maintain pH stability.

  • Texture Modifier: I added Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (1%) to mitigate the greasiness of the 25% fat load, resulting in a matte, “velvet” after-feel.

My Batch Processing Workflow

  1. Hydration: I dispersed the Xanthan Gum in Glycerin before adding the water (setting aside 15g for the urea solution).

  2. Thermal Phase: Both Phase A and Phase B were heated to 70°C.

  3. Emulsification: Phase B was incorporated into Phase A in three stages using an immersion mixer.

  4. Urea Integration: Once the emulsion cooled to room temperature, I dissolved the Urea and Gluconolactone in the reserved 15g of water and integrated this into the base.

  5. Final Finish: I added the preservative, essential oils (Grapefruit and Mint), and a touch of food-grade coloring for aesthetic appeal.

Final QC Check: The pH was measured and found to be stable between 5.5 and 6.0.