Smooth Away Face Cream

Hello everyone!

Long time no see 😀

I have kept formulating all this time, but there wasn’t much new to write about since I tend to go back to the ingredients I know and love…

However TODAY, ladies and gentlemen, I am posting THE FORMULA, the one I have been running after all these years!
I have
1) a new emulsifier, which I instantly fell in love with
2) a new procedure!
and clearly a 3) NEW cream sensation! 😀

IMG_20181029_082916 (1)

Let’s talk briefly about the emulsifier:

I have purchased it from Alexmo, the commercial name is PolyAquol and the INCI is: Polyclyceryl-2-Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Stearyl Alcohol.
It can be used between 1%-5%. It is a PEG-free, non-ionic, O/W, self-emulsifying, Ecocert and Cosmos approved emulsifier, which needs to be heated up to 80°C.
It is also electrolyte tolerant, works well in a wide range of pH and it generates liquid crystal structures.

The formula I am going to write was actually a simple trial test, because I wanted to see how this emulsifier worked, so I only added a gelling agent to the water phase but no thickener, to see how well this emulsifier worked (and it worked wonders!!!). I have also tried to add cetyl alcohol in a formula for an eye cream (which I might not might not post later on) and it obviously changed the viscosity of the lotion but it didn’t change the feel of the cream, which is great!

 

Enough words already, here you go!

FORMULA: 

PHASE A+B (in this formula I have combined the Phase A and Phase B, I explain why and how in the process)

Water to 100%
Glycerin 2%
Actigum 0.3% (this is a rheology modifier by Cargill and it’s made of Scleroglucan and Xanthan Gum. I have to say that it does help enhance the feel of the lotion. I am quite in love with this gelling agent)

PolyAquol 2.5%
Octyldodecanol 2%
Dycaprylyl Ether 2%
Caprylic/Capric Triglicerides 2%
Kokum Butter 2%
Coconut Oil 1% 

PHASE C: 

Pentavitin 2% – a very hydrating active
Squalene 2%
Tiolisine Complex 3% – this is an active from Sinerga, whose INCI is Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate, Lysine Thiazolidine Carboxylate – “a combination of sulfurated amino acids with sebum normalizing properties” – I have oily skin so if this is not an issue of yours, you can obviously omit the ingredient
Alpha-Bisabolol 0.5% 
Sensilene 1% – INCI: Butylene Glycol (Natural, ECOCERT), Water, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract – This active has soothing, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, so it is perfect for sensitive skin especially in the winter time.
Ribes Nigrum Extract 1% 
Liftonin Express 0.25% – this is a wonderful active ingredient, the INCI is Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (and) Pullulan (and) Porphyridium Cruentum Extract Dosage: 0,5 – 3,0% “LIFTONIN®-XPRESS is a balanced polymer network made from sustainable raw materials and biopolymers that provides an immediate and long-lasting tightening and lifting active ingredient. It smooths and minimizes wrinkles and improves the micro-structure in the eye area.”
Preserving System 1% 

Fragrance Oil: q.s. – I added two drops of CK One dupe fragrance oil.

HOW TO:
1) I have measured the water phase (the first three ingredients) and mixed it to help hydrate the Actigum. (Phase A)
2) I started heating up the water phase while measuring the oil phase which I then added directly to the water phase (Phase A + B)
3) I heat the Phase A+B up to 80°C and then homogenized it very well.
4) I placed the beaker in a cool bath with continuous stirring.
5) Once the lotion was at 30°-35°C I added the Phase C to it and homogenized.

 

Finished Smooth Away Cream
Initial Water Phase
Just homogenized (still 60°C)

THE FEEL:
This is probably the best part of this face cream: it is not very viscous, obviously, but it spreads amazingly. It doesn’t drag at all, on the contrary it feels extremely smooth and soothing. It is a real pleasure to apply!
I believe Liftoning Express is a great ingredient, but this is a formula that all together works: starting from the choice of gelling agent, the emulsifier, the actives… until the famous “grease fall” which, you might have noticed, is a little more articulated and rich than I usually go for!

I do love this formula a lot!
Let me know if you try it! 😉 Till next time…

29 thoughts on “Smooth Away Face Cream”

  1. Hi again! Thanks for sharing. This looks like a beautiful cream. I’m drooling. I love the simple yet powerful formula. Do you see any difference in oil production with the addition of Tiolisine Complex? I’m always looking for a solution to the dreaded greasy face… Ugh.
    And with the Liftonin? Does it give a tightening effect without a ‘dry film’ on the skin? I would love to try these ingredients. I wonder if they are available in the US. Please share your opinion after a couple weeks of using your lovely new cream. Thanks!

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    1. I have used Tiolisine in the past and I do see a SLIGHT difference but no amazing ingredient will ever change our skin :/ this is the sad truth 😀
      About Liftonin: I have used it at a low percentage (in the last eye cream I used it at 0.5%) and I can say that it doesn’t create the “dry film” 🙂
      I would have to try it at 2% though, to be sure! 🙂

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      1. Thanks for wonderful posting.
        What the reasons you use Liftonin Xpress? Instant lift?

        I tried with 3% but the lift y

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      2. I just tried this ingredient. It didn’t give any bad effect (like the “dry film”) but I didn’t see much great effect either.
        I haven’t tried it at 3% yet, you didn’t see any difference even with 3%? 🙂

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  2. Welcome baaaaaaaack ❤️❤️ 💃💃 u’ve been missed 😘 but, next time you decide to take a break, plz update ur blog so we know u’re ok. 😍💃

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  3. I have recently found your site and am interested in knowing where the grease fall numbers come from that are assigned to the oils and waxes? Just not clear about this and as a newbie have quite a lot to learn.

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      1. Sorry I’m on the wrong recipe. It’s the cream where you are explaining grease fall. Each oil & butter has a number assigned to it and I don’t understand what those numbers are or where they’re coming from. I have looked extensively over the internet and you are the only one that explains this concept. This is the most instructional site I’ve come across and all the info is very helpful.

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      2. Ok Kathy 🙂 I am not sure if you are referring to numbers that are connected to density, maybe?
        The point is that oils and butters have a very different feel between each other which depends (at least most of it depends) on the density of them. Of course consistency can be different (specially in butters) but for oils we mostly look at density.
        Anyway: to have a cream that will leave a “full” feeling (and not a greasy feeling or a dry one) the best thing is to have a little bit of all densities. However, the concept of the “grease fall” just helps us get an idea of keeping a curve that will have higher percentages of those oils/butters that leave the feel we like the most.
        An example to make things clearer, hopefully:
        if you like a rich cream feel, then you opt for a cream with a little bit of all densities oils/butters BUT you will have higher percentage of those rich/dense oils you like most.
        While, if your skin is oily then you can opt for more “dry” feel oils.
        Not sure it is clear now, but hopefully it helped 🙂

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      3. Yes, those are the numbers I’m talking about. Just one more question–where do the density numbers come from? Is there a particular website? There is so much to learn!
        Thank you so much for your time! Hope you have a wonderful holiday.
        Cheers

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  4. I have rosacea,my skin is constantly red and lots of cosmetics has just made it worse.So I was thinking of making my own moisturizer since I know what flares my rosacea.My question,is it possible to add colorants into a moisturizer formulation like this to cancel out my redness? I have found few moisturizers with safe ingredients that has green tint but I wanna make my own..one of them had “FD&C blue 1 and FD&C yellow 5” as colorant

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    1. I don’t believe the colorant will actually colour-correct your skin… However there are some ingredients specific for rosacea and there is a specific “ronaflair” that helps against red appearence. It is a powder, so the formulation must be really on spot or there can be issues with stabilization of the formula.
      However your idea if making your own good cream is great 😉 you go girl!

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      1. Ronaflair® “Balance Green” is the one you mean? Which phase could I add this into if I followed the recipe for sebum normalizer cream? I’m sorry for asking so much questions

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      2. Yes that’s the ingredient!
        But the formula would need to be tweaked just for this and also it is just a visual adjustment, so to speak, not a real help.

        I think the best would be to formulate with antioxidants, ingredients that help soothing the inflammation and with good oils! 🙂 That is enough imo!

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  5. Yes I know it’s for visual purposes only and that’s what I need haha
    I can’t be bothered to put on foundation everytime I step out, especially in summer..so I want to be able to cover my redness at least a little bit, without having to put on “make up” .Just put on moisturizer and be done!
    I’m using few things to ease the redness but it never goes fully goes away 😦 so at least I wanna not look so RED.Right now I’m using a green concealer but it’s breaking me out badly with the silicones in it.
    What would I need to change in the formulation to add this thing?(hope I’m not being too much) I appreciate the help a lot!

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    1. Well it is quite complicated to add powders to a formula: starting from using the right emulsifying system, to the right preserving system.

      But think about this: if you make a good enough cream that HELP against the inflammation, you might not need the color correction, also because I actually have that ingredient and it doesn’t work exactly great on its own.
      These powders work great with silicones… So that’s also another thing to consider 🙂

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  6. Have you ever tried making make up products? or toners? I hope you can keep sharing more recipes and lessons.I learned so much from your blog!

    I was wondering how can I make a body oil to use after shower so it doesn’t leave a greasy feeling but melts(?) on damp skin.Could I just add an emulsifier into my oils?

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    1. I did make toners but never posted the formula because I made very simple ones.
      Make up… I am not into formulating it, even though I did try formulating some years ago: it would take so much trial and error and honestly I find it already hard to find formulas which I like on my skin… I don’t think I would make anything good 😀
      About body oil: there are specific surfactants for that, yes! But would you like to keep the surfactants on your skin after the shower? 🙂

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      1. Doesn’t adding a surfactant just make it a oil cleanser? İs it possible to add emulsifier into it and not have to rinse it?
        would polyglyceryl Oleate work for example?

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      2. It all depends on the amount of surfactant you add, to be a cleanser you add more. However, an oil is way less hydrating, why not make a lotion? 🙂
        I would have to double check on which surfs work cause right now none come to my mind (I just woke up 😀 )

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  8. I see,indeed a lotion would be more hydrating but I like slathering oil on myself before towel drying because most of the time I’m just too lazy to massage lotion on to my skin haha 😀
    Oh and I found this recipe I wonder if it would work
    Formulation:

    Phase A:

    6.0% Dermofeel G5O
    45% Glycerine 99,5%

    Phase B:
    20.0% native acai berry oil
    24.9% organic unrefined avocado oil
    2.0% Witch hazel extract in sunflower oil
    0.5% Tocopherol
    0.1% Rosemary CO2 extract
    1.0% organic peppermint EO
    0.5% organic lime EO

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      2. The most common one is Laureth 4.
        This is a surfactant that, added to oil, really helps the spreadability of the oil on the surfact of water.
        You will see that a drop of oil on the water stays together, but if you add Laureth 4 to it, the oil will spread very wide once it touches water.
        I have used before an ingredient called Zethesol. It needs a high concentration (around 30%) and you add it to an anhydrous formula.

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  10. Thanks for the information . Please can you explain more on olivem 1000 as an emulsifier and possibly do a practical for this emulsifier. Thanks

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    1. Hi Jessica, I am not a big fan at all of that emulsifier to be honest.
      It was easy to use but I didn’t like the feel in the end, or the white trail it left on the skin… I am not sure I will ever purchase it again to be honest, but if I do I will consider posting 🙂 Thanks

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