Formulating a lotion: Phase B – THEORY pt.4

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My Lab Diary: Phase B—The Heated Oil Phase

Hello Hello! 😀

Today I’m looking over my notes for Phase B, which I call the “Heated Oil Phase.” This is where the cream really starts to take its physical shape. It’s a critical stage because if the solid components aren’t fully melted and happy at 70°C, the whole emulsion will be unstable.

1. The Emulsifier: The “Bridge”

In my lab, I see the emulsifier as the bridge that holds hands with both the water and the oil. While I love a good cold-process experiment, most of the professional materials I use need heat to build a strong “lattice” that won’t fall apart tomorrow. I always check their HLB and thermal requirements before I even turn on the stove!

2. Thickeners: The Structural Skeleton

I use lipophilic thickeners (like Cetyl Alcohol or Stearic Acid) to give the cream its “bones.” They usually come in cute little pearls or pellets.

• My Ratios: I’ve found that a 1% total thickener is usually my “sweet spot.” Lately, I’ve been loving a 1:1 mix of Cetyl Alcohol (0.5%) and Cetearyl Palmitate (0.5%)—it makes the skin feel so elegant and professional! 😀

• A Note on “All-in-One” Blends: I’ve learned to be careful with things like Montanov 68. Since it already has Cetearyl Alcohol inside, if I add more thickener to my notes, the cream ends up lumpy and “over-processed.” Less is definitely more here!

3. The Lipid Load (Fats & Oils)

Before I start a new “Theory Batch,” I always ask myself: “Who is this for?” The amount of fat I use changes everything. Here is the scale I’ve developed for my experiments:

**4. Don’t Fall for the “Khtululu Oil” Trap! 😉 **

Sips water. If there is one thing I’ve learned, it’s that price does not equal performance. It is so easy to fall for exotic, expensive oils with “miraculous” claims (I call them the “Khtululu Oils” of the world!).

In my lab, I ignore the marketing story. Instead, I focus on:

• Viscosity: How thick is it?

• Density ($\rho$): Is it heavy or light?

• Spreading Velocity: How fast does it disappear into the skin?

A successful oil phase isn’t about finding the rarest oil in the world; it’s about the Grease-Fall. By blending different densities, I can create a professional feel that a single “miracle” oil could never achieve. It’s not magic—it’s just good formulation!

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

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