Tag: theory

Can you recognize a good Shampoo? pt. 1

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Theory: How to Read a Shampoo INCI (Ingredient List)

Hello Hello! 😀 Today’s session is about a superpower every formulator should have: the ability to recognize a good shampoo just by looking at the label!

The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the list of everything inside a product. They are listed in order of percentage, except for ingredients below 1%, which can be listed in any order at the end. While we can’t know the exact percentages, our knowledge of formulation helps us see if a product is well-balanced or just “poetry.”

The Three Rules of the Lab:

  1. Bio-Realism: I am not a “biodegradable-nazi.” I prefer eco-friendly ingredients, but I look for overall balance rather than perfection.

  2. Listen to Your Hair: If a shampoo gives you an itchy scalp or greasy hair, stop using it—even if the INCI looks “perfect” on paper!

  3. The 1% Line: Often, expensive plant extracts are listed above preservatives just for “label appeal,” even if they are only present at 0.01%. Don’t be fooled!

Analyzing the Surfactants

Surfactants are the “magic” that creates foam. In most commercial shampoos, the primary family is Anionic (negative charge), like SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate). SLES is effective and conditioning, but it can be aggressive if used alone.

The Golden Ratio: SLES + CAPB

The most common combination is SLES + Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB). To make a shampoo mild, the CAPB should ideally be at least 1/3 of the amount of SLES.

  • A Good Sign: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine...

  • A Red Flag: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride... Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Note: If Sodium Chloride (salt) appears before the Betaine, it usually means the Betaine is too low (under 1-2%) to effectively buffer the SLES.

INCI Case Studies

Example 1: The “Poetry” Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Citric Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine... [long list of extracts]

  • Analysis: Citric acid is usually used at max 1.5% to adjust pH. If it is in the 3rd position, everything following it (including the Betaine and all those fancy extracts) is likely at a very low concentration. This is mostly just SLES and water—very aggressive!

Example 2: The “Oily” Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside...

  • Analysis: This skips the Betaine but uses high levels of oils to buffer the SLES. While this feels milder, the oils might weigh down fine hair or cause issues for those with greasy scalps.

Example 3: The “Silicon Build-up” Formula

Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Dimethicone...

  • Analysis: Dimethicone (a silicone) is high up on the list. It will make hair look amazing the first few times, but it eventually builds up, leaving hair heavy and dull. Also, without CAPB, the SLES might still feel quite harsh.

Example 4: The Balanced Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Decyl Polyglucose...

  • Analysis: This is what we want to see! CAPB is in the 3rd position, followed by two more mild surfactants. It’s a complex, well-thought-out cleaning system.

Summary Table: Ingredients to Watch

Ingredient Type What to look for Function
Primary Surfactant SLES, Sodium Coco Sulfate Cleaning and Lather
Secondary Surfactant Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glucosides Mildness and Foam stability
Conditioners Polyquaternium-7, Silicones, Guar Manageability and Shine
Proteins Hydrolyzed Wheat/Silk Protein Film-forming protection
Thickeners Sodium Chloride (Salt) Adjusting viscosity

This is just the beginning of our INCI journey! In the next session, we will look at shampoos that use different surfactant bases beyond SLES.

Do you have a shampoo at home with a confusing INCI? Post it below and let’s analyze it! 😀

How to formulate a detergent – THEORY pt.2

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These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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How to formulate a detergent

My Lab Notes: Surfactant Assembly & Phase Logic

Hello Hello! 😀

I’ve been recording my experiments with detergents, and I’ve realized it’s about so much more than just getting the skin clean. It’s about managing the “Micellar structure” so the product feels professional.

1. My “Trio-Strategy” for Softness

I’ve documented that a single-surfactant system is usually too harsh for my skin. I’ve started using a three-part team:

  • Primary: My “cleaning engine” (like SLES).

  • Secondary: A “buffer” like Cocamidopropyl Betaine to reduce irritation.

  • Aesthetics: A tiny bit of Glyceryl Oleate to make the lather feel like luxury.

2. My Thickening Observations

I’ve noticed that people associate thickness with quality, so I’ve been testing three reliable ways to build “body”:

  • The Salt-Curve: I’ve recorded that SLES becomes extremely dense when I add electrolytes (salt) because it forces the micelles to pack tighter.

  • The pH Trigger: In my experiments with Sarcosinate, the texture changes completely at pH 5.0. It goes from thin to thick almost instantly!

  • Polymeric Support: If the surfactants are being stubborn, I use Xanthan Gum (<1%) in Phase A to get the flow I want.

3. My Assembly Protocol (Avoiding the “Crash”)

I have to be very careful with the order of addition to avoid “crashing” the formula or making it cloudy.

  • Phase A (The Aqueous Foundation): I hydrate my gums and glycerin here.

  • Phase B (The Concentrate): This is where my main surfactants go. Sips water. I’ve learned to mix these very slowly with a spatula—no immersion mixers allowed, or I’ll end up with a beaker full of air bubbles!

  • Phase C (The Trigger): This is my favorite part. When I add the Betaine and the pH adjusters at the end, I often see the “thickening moment” happen right before my eyes.

Final Lab Thought

Formulating detergents is a game of patience. If I rush the mixing, I lose the clarity. A thin gel still cleans, but I’ve found that a thick, glossy gel is what makes the experience feel truly professional. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.2 – THEORY

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These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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My Lab Notes: Hot vs. Cold — How I Choose My Emulsifier

Hello Hello! 😀 I’ve realized that while HLB is a great starting point for my experiments, it doesn’t tell the whole story of how an ingredient behaves once it hits my beaker. In my records, I’ve found that two things matter even more: The Process and The Percentage.

1. My Experience with Hot-Process (The Classics)

Most of the emulsifiers in my cupboard come as solid flakes or pearls. I’ve documented that these almost always need to hit 70°C to really “wake up” and work.

  • Self-Emulsifiers: I use things like Montanov 68 when I want a “complete meal” that works on its own.

  • The “Partnership” Method: I really enjoy pairing a hydrophilic emulsifier with a lipophilic one (like Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate). It gives me so much more control over whether the cream feels “velvet” or “rich.”

  • My Temperature Rule: Sips water. I’ve learned the hard way—if I don’t get both phases to the same temperature, the emulsion might look okay at first, but it will separate by tomorrow!

2. My “No-Heat” Days (The Cold Process)

Sometimes I use liquid emulsifiers that work at room temperature.

  • The Observations: I’ve noticed these usually produce much lighter, fresher textures—perfect for summer experiments!

  • The Lipid Constraint: I have to remind myself that since I’m not using heat, I can’t easily use my solid butters or waxes unless I change the whole plan.

How I Study My Ingredients

I’ve found that the best way for me to learn is by comparing. I like to make a “test base” and swap out only the emulsifier to see how the whiteness and thickness change.

Where I Get My Data

I never guess! I always keep the supplier’s notes on my desk. I look for:

  • The recommended usage (usually 2% to 5%).

  • The melting point. If a supplier doesn’t provide this, I don’t use the material. I need clear info for my records!

Every batch is a new chance to see how these “matchmakers” behave.

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

(Sources)

How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.1 – THEORY

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Lab Notes: Emulsifiers and the HLB Mystery

Hello Hello! 😀

I’ve been spending a lot of time thinking about the “matchmakers” in my beakers: Emulsifiers. I’ve learned that since water and oil naturally want to stay apart, I need a substance that acts like a bridge—something that grabs the water with one hand and the oil with the other to keep them combined.

The “Double Personality” Discovery

I’ve documented that these molecules work because they have a dual nature:

  • One part is Hydrophilic (water-loving).

  • One part is Lipophilic (oil-loving).

The HLB Scale (My Reference Guide)

I used to find the HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) scale a bit intimidating, but I’ve simplified it in my notes. It’s just a scale from 0 to 20 that tells me which side the emulsifier “leans” toward.

[If I feel like skipping the technical parts today… I can! 😄 But for my records, I’m keeping this summary here:]

  • HLB 3–6 (The Oil-Lovers): In my experiments, these usually create W/O (Water-in-Oil) systems. I’ve noticed these are great for heavy, protective ointments.

  • HLB 8–16 (The Water-Lovers): These are my go-to for O/W (Oil-in-Water) lotions. Most of the creams I make fall into this category.

My Emulsifier “Cheat Sheet”:

I’ve compiled this list of values for the materials I have in my cupboard so I don’t have to look them up every time:

  • 4.0 – Lecithin (I’ve even tried the food-grade kind from the supermarket!)

  • 5.0 – Cetyl alcohol (I record this as a lipophilic co-emulsifier to add “body”)

  • 10.0 – Montanov 68 (A self-emulsifier that I’ve found works well on its own)

  • 12.0 – Methylglucose sesquistearate (One of my favorites for light lotions)

  • 16.7 – Polysorbate 20 (I use this mainly when I need to dissolve essential oils into water)

What the Numbers Don’t Tell Me

My biggest takeaway from these experiments is that the HLB number is just the beginning.

  • Thermal requirements: My notes show that the number won’t tell me if I need to hit 70°C or if it’s a cold process.

  • The “Feel”: I still have to get my hands in the beaker to see if the final cream feels “waxy” or “silky.”

(to be continued… 😄)

How to formulate a SERUM

Hyaluronic Acid Serum

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These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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This post is a great way to show how formulation shifts when you move from “heavy” emulsions to “active-heavy” serums. In 2026, the trend is all about “minimalist science,” so framing this as your Technical Brief on Aqueous Systems is perfect.

Here is the “Studio” revamp, using the Lab Notes persona.

Lab Notes: Observations on Aqueous Systems & Serum Theory

In my formulation research, serums represent a distinct category of product design. While lotions are designed for barrier protection and emollience, serums are engineered as high-delivery systems for specific active components. Below are my documented observations on the characteristics and structural theory of these fluid systems.

Defining Characteristics of a Serum

In my lab records, I categorize a “Serum” based on these specific technical parameters:

  • Lipid Load: Systems are typically very light, with a total fat content often documented between 1.5% and 4%.

  • Viscosity ($\eta$): Serums are designed to be fluid or semi-fluid rather than high-viscosity creams.

     

  • Active Density: They are formulated to hold a higher concentration of “hero” ingredients.

     

  • Cold Process Theory: Because the lipid load is so low, many of my serum experiments are conducted at room temperature (Cold Process), preserving the integrity of heat-sensitive vitamins.

Theory Perspective: If a cream is the “protector” of the skin, a serum is the “booster.” Expecting a serum to provide the same occlusion as a rich cream is a common misconception in formulation theory; they serve different physiological goals.

Structural Phases in Serum Design

Phase A: The Aqueous Base

Phase A is the backbone of the serum. In my experiments, I focus heavily on the choice of Rheology Modifiers (gelling agents) to determine the “pick-up” and “after-feel” of the product.

  • Robustness: I prioritize gelling agents that can withstand high electrolyte (salt) loads from actives.

  • My Go-To Polymers: I often record the use of Xanthan Gum or Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC). Note that HEC requires a thermal trigger to hydrate, which I account for in my processing notes if cold-sensitive actives are involved.

Phase B: The Targeted Lipid Phase

Even in a water-heavy system, a small lipid phase is often necessary to carry oil-soluble vitamins (like Vitamin E/Tocopherol).

  • Solubilization vs. Emulsification: In my lab, when the oil phase is under 2%, I often experiment with solubilizers (surfactant-based materials) rather than traditional waxes. This allows the final system to remain translucent and liquid.

  • Cold Emulsifiers: For serums, I frequently document the use of liquid, room-temperature emulsifiers to maintain a “Cold Process” workflow.

Phase C: The Active Integration

In serum theory, the line between Phase A and Phase C is often blurred. Since many serums are cold-processed, I can incorporate the actives directly into the water phase from the start.

Hyaluronic Acid: The Dual-Purpose Ingredient

I’ve found that Sodium Hyaluronate is a fascinating case study in serum design. It acts simultaneously as a high-performance active and a gelling agent. In my records, I’ve noted that a high-molecular-weight Hyaluronic Acid can create a complete serum structure on its own, requiring nothing more than water and a preservative.

Concluding Thoughts on Serum Strategy

Designing a serum is an exercise in precision. Because the formula is so “exposed” (lacking the heavy waxes of a cream), every ingredient must be perfectly balanced to avoid tackiness or instability. I find these systems to be the ultimate test of an active ingredient’s compatibility with a base.

What’s next in the lab?

I am currently reviewing my notes on Niacinamide stability within these aqueous systems. If you have specific observations on pH-sensitive actives in serums, I’d love to compare data!

How to make foot & hand cream: formulating!

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These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

DSCF3497

Formulating a Protective Barrier Cream (Hands & Feet)

In this experimental batch, I am documenting the creation of a high-lipid barrier cream designed for hands and feet. These areas require a specific “Heavy Emollient” profile—thick, protective, and highly hydrating. My goal was to achieve a 25% lipid load while maintaining a stable, professional texture.

Phase A: Rheology and Electrolyte Stability

In my lab notes, the choice of gelling agent for this formula was dictated by the active ingredients in Phase C.

  • Distilled Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 4.0% (Increased humectant levels for extreme dryness).

  • Xanthan Gum: 0.5% Technical Observation: I opted for a relatively high percentage of Xanthan Gum as the sole stabilizer. I purposely avoided Carbomer polymers because the high concentration of Urea (an electrolyte) in Phase C would compromise the carbomer’s lattice, leading to viscosity loss.

Phase B: The Heavy “Grease-Fall” and Protective Waxes

For a hand/foot treatment, the lipid profile shifts toward the “heavy” end of the Gaussian distribution.

  • The Lipid Cascade: I prioritized hard butters (Cocoa and Shea) to provide structure and occlusion.

  • The Role of Waxes: I’ve introduced Jojoba Wax at 2%. Waxes are not strictly part of the “Grease-Fall” fluidity; instead, they function as film-formers, providing a protective “glove” effect against environmental stressors.

Experimental Oil Phase (25% total fats):

  • Jojoba Wax: 2.0%

  • Cocoa Butter: 5.0%

  • Shea Butter: 10.0%

  • Argan Oil: 5.0%

  • Grape Seed Oil: 5.0%

Phase C: Managing Urea and pH Stability

Phase C contains the “Hero” ingredients, but they require careful chemical management.

  • Urea (10%): A potent humectant known for its water-binding and keratolytic (exfoliating) properties.

  • Gluconolactone (2%): In my research, Urea is known to cause a pH drift (becoming more alkaline over time). To counter this, I’ve included Gluconolactone as a buffering/sequestering agent to maintain pH stability.

  • Texture Modifier: I added Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (1%) to mitigate the greasiness of the 25% fat load, resulting in a matte, “velvet” after-feel.

My Batch Processing Workflow

  1. Hydration: I dispersed the Xanthan Gum in Glycerin before adding the water (setting aside 15g for the urea solution).

  2. Thermal Phase: Both Phase A and Phase B were heated to 70°C.

  3. Emulsification: Phase B was incorporated into Phase A in three stages using an immersion mixer.

  4. Urea Integration: Once the emulsion cooled to room temperature, I dissolved the Urea and Gluconolactone in the reserved 15g of water and integrated this into the base.

  5. Final Finish: I added the preservative, essential oils (Grapefruit and Mint), and a touch of food-grade coloring for aesthetic appeal.

Final QC Check: The pH was measured and found to be stable between 5.5 and 6.0.

Formulating lotion: Phase C & ACTIVE INGREDIENTS- THEORY pt.6

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Lab Notes: Phase C—The “Cool Down” & Active Ingredients

Hello Hello! 😀

If Phase A and B are the “body” of my cream, then Phase C is the personality! This is the “Cool Down” phase where I add all the fun stuff, but it’s also the part that makes me the most nervous. Why? Because most of these ingredients are total divas—they hate heat!

The “Waiting Game” Protocol

Sips water. Patience is everything here. I’ve learned that I absolutely have to wait until my emulsion drops below 40°C. If I get impatient and add things too early, I’m basically just cooking my expensive actives!

  • My Checklist: I usually keep my total “active load” under 10% to make sure the emulsion stays stable and doesn’t get “cranky.”

1. The “Antioxidant Cocktail” Theory

I’ve been reading that it’s better to use a team of antioxidants rather than just one.

  • My Observation: Mixing Vitamin E (Tocopherol) with something like Resveratrol seems to create a much stronger defense. It’s like they protect each other while they protect the oils in my cream!

2. Acids & The pH Balance

I use things like Lactic or Citric acid to either exfoliate or just fix the pH.

  • Safety Note: My notes are very strict about this—if I use chemical exfoliants like Salicylic acid, those batches are for NIGHT USE ONLY. I don’t want to mess with photosensitivity!

3. Niacinamide: The “Flushing” Constraint

Niacinamide is a hero in my oily-skin research (I usually use 1–4%), but it has a very specific rule: pH 5.0 to 5.5. * The Risk: I’ve documented that if the pH goes too high or too low, it can turn into Nicotinic Acid. If that happens… PHEW! It can cause the skin to flush and turn red. Not what I’m going for! 😀

4. Soothing & The “Grit” Problem

I love adding Panthenol (B5) and Allantoin for that soothing feeling.

  • Lab Lesson: Allantoin is a tricky one! It only dissolves at 0.4%. I’ve had batches where I used too much and ended up with “grit” in the cream. It felt like a scrub instead of a lotion! Now I’m much more careful with my measurements.

5. Eye Area Experiments (The Caffeine Boost)

For my eye creams, I’ve been experimenting with Caffeine and Escin. They are fascinating because of their “vasoprotective” properties—basically trying to help with puffiness and drainage.

**The “Reality Check” on Sourcing 😉 **

This is where my inner detective comes out. Marketing can be so deceptive!

  • The Q10 Case Study: Pure Coenzyme Q10 is a bright, intense yellow. Even at 0.1%, it turns the cream yellow.

  • My Thought: When I see a “Pure White” Q10 cream in a store, I just smile and shake my head. I know the concentration must be almost zero!

  • Check the SDS: I’ve learned to always check the Safety Data Sheet. “Liquid Q10” is often mostly filler with just a tiny bit of the real stuff. I want to know exactly what I’m putting in my beakers!

It really is a science, and every time I cool down a batch, I feel like I’m learning a new secret. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄