Tag: handmade lotion

How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.2 – THEORY

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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My Lab Notes: Hot vs. Cold — How I Choose My Emulsifier

Hello Hello! 😀 I’ve realized that while HLB is a great starting point for my experiments, it doesn’t tell the whole story of how an ingredient behaves once it hits my beaker. In my records, I’ve found that two things matter even more: The Process and The Percentage.

1. My Experience with Hot-Process (The Classics)

Most of the emulsifiers in my cupboard come as solid flakes or pearls. I’ve documented that these almost always need to hit 70°C to really “wake up” and work.

  • Self-Emulsifiers: I use things like Montanov 68 when I want a “complete meal” that works on its own.

  • The “Partnership” Method: I really enjoy pairing a hydrophilic emulsifier with a lipophilic one (like Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate). It gives me so much more control over whether the cream feels “velvet” or “rich.”

  • My Temperature Rule: Sips water. I’ve learned the hard way—if I don’t get both phases to the same temperature, the emulsion might look okay at first, but it will separate by tomorrow!

2. My “No-Heat” Days (The Cold Process)

Sometimes I use liquid emulsifiers that work at room temperature.

  • The Observations: I’ve noticed these usually produce much lighter, fresher textures—perfect for summer experiments!

  • The Lipid Constraint: I have to remind myself that since I’m not using heat, I can’t easily use my solid butters or waxes unless I change the whole plan.

How I Study My Ingredients

I’ve found that the best way for me to learn is by comparing. I like to make a “test base” and swap out only the emulsifier to see how the whiteness and thickness change.

Where I Get My Data

I never guess! I always keep the supplier’s notes on my desk. I look for:

  • The recommended usage (usually 2% to 5%).

  • The melting point. If a supplier doesn’t provide this, I don’t use the material. I need clear info for my records!

Every batch is a new chance to see how these “matchmakers” behave.

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

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