Tag: handmade cream

Pink Sugar Frosting Body Lotion (Recipe)

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

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Silk-Touch Body Cream

Hello Hello! 😀 My goal for this one was to make a super emollient cream—the kind that feels really luxurious on the skin. I didn’t want to pack it with a million actives; I just wanted it to do good for the body! We spend so much time on our faces, but our body skin deserves some love too, right? 😉

The “Grease-Fall” (My Oil Selection):

Since this is for the body, I wasn’t worried about oils being comedogenic. I used 5% Shea Butter (which is comedogenic, whatever you read online! :P) because it is absolute heaven for body skin.

For the rest, I created a “Grease-Fall” using light and extra light oils. Most of these are synthetic or waxes (like Jojoba) because they make the cream feel so much better on the skin. If you want only natural oils, it won’t feel quite as silky, but Jojoba gets you pretty close!

The Formula:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 5

  • Carbopol Ultrez 21 – 0.1 (A little gelling agent to keep it bouncy!)

Phase B (The “No-Heat” Emulsifier):

  • Abil Care 85 – 2 (This is a silicone-based emulsifier. I don’t use it on my face because it gives me tiny pimples, but for the body? I totally enjoy it! It makes the cream velvety and it’s almost impossible to fail with it! :D)

  • Tinovis ADE – 1.5 (This is the thickener/gel maker that works at room temperature—no heating needed, yeheee!)

  • Shea Butter – 5

  • Safflower Oil – 3

  • Borage Oil – 3

  • Jojoba Oil – 5

  • Dicaprylyl Ether – 5 (Extra light synthetic oil)

  • Cetiol Sensoft – 5 (The lightest oil ever—it feels like silicone but it isn’t!)

  • Tocopherol – 1 (Vitamin E)

Phase C (The Actives):

  • Allantoin – 0.35

  • Oat Hydrolyzed Proteins – 1.65 * Panthenol – 1 (Vitamin B5)

  • Preservative (The amount needed for yours!)

  • Fragrance Oil (I used “Pink Sugar” from Gracefruit… mmm! :D)

Notes from the Beaker:

  1. The Allantoin Hack: Allantoin can be a pain to dissolve—it gets gritty! But I found a trick: if you mix it with the hydrolyzed proteins first, it melts in so fast! That does the trick every time! 😀

  2. No Double Boiler: Since I used Abil Care 85 and Tinovis ADE, I didn’t have to heat anything up! It’s a fast way to get a professional texture.

  3. Mixing: I just poured Phase A into Phase B and mixed. It gets thick and silky almost instantly.

  4. Substitution Note: If you swap the emulsifier for one that does need heat, you have to move the Tinovis to Phase C because it hates heat!

Final Verdict: I am so satisfied with the “Silk-Touch” on this one. It’s emollient without being a sticky mess. ENJOY!!! 😀

How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.2 – THEORY

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Lab Notes: Hot vs. Cold — How I Choose My Emulsifier

Hello Hello! 😀 I’ve realized that while HLB is a great starting point for my experiments, it doesn’t tell the whole story of how an ingredient behaves once it hits my beaker. In my records, I’ve found that two things matter even more: The Process and The Percentage.

1. My Experience with Hot-Process (The Classics)

Most of the emulsifiers in my cupboard come as solid flakes or pearls. I’ve documented that these almost always need to hit 70°C to really “wake up” and work.

  • Self-Emulsifiers: I use things like Montanov 68 when I want a “complete meal” that works on its own.

  • The “Partnership” Method: I really enjoy pairing a hydrophilic emulsifier with a lipophilic one (like Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate). It gives me so much more control over whether the cream feels “velvet” or “rich.”

  • My Temperature Rule: Sips water. I’ve learned the hard way—if I don’t get both phases to the same temperature, the emulsion might look okay at first, but it will separate by tomorrow!

2. My “No-Heat” Days (The Cold Process)

Sometimes I use liquid emulsifiers that work at room temperature.

  • The Observations: I’ve noticed these usually produce much lighter, fresher textures—perfect for summer experiments!

  • The Lipid Constraint: I have to remind myself that since I’m not using heat, I can’t easily use my solid butters or waxes unless I change the whole plan.

How I Study My Ingredients

I’ve found that the best way for me to learn is by comparing. I like to make a “test base” and swap out only the emulsifier to see how the whiteness and thickness change.

Where I Get My Data

I never guess! I always keep the supplier’s notes on my desk. I look for:

  • The recommended usage (usually 2% to 5%).

  • The melting point. If a supplier doesn’t provide this, I don’t use the material. I need clear info for my records!

Every batch is a new chance to see how these “matchmakers” behave.

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

(Sources)

Anti-puffiness Caffeine Eye cream – Recipe

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LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Lab Note: Caffeine & Ceramide Eye Cream

Hello Hello! :D The skin around our eyes is the thinnest and most delicate on our entire face. For this formula, the “Prince Ingredient” is Caffeine, which I’ve used for its famous stimulating and de-puffing properties.

I wanted this cream to feel light but also “substantial,” so I designed a grease-fall with a bit more butter (Avocado and Shea). This gives it a slightly thicker, more protective feeling while keeping all the fat densities balanced! yeheee!

The Formula: Eye Nutrition

Phase A (The Active Base):

  • Water: to 100
  • Fleur-de-lis Hydrolat: 10.0 (Soothing floral water)
  • Glycerin: 3.0
  • Xanthan Gum: 0.1 / Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.3
  • Caffeine: 2.0 (The “De-puffer”)

Phase B (The Butters & Oils):

  • Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 3.0 (Emulsifier)
  • Cetyl Alcohol / Cetyl Palmitate: 1.0 / 0.5 (Thickeners)
  • Avocado Butter: 1.0 / Shea Butter: 2.0
  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0
  • Argan / Evening Primrose / Jojoba Oil: 1.0 each

Phase C (The Cold Additions):

  • Oily Part: Rose Hip Oil (1.0), Bisabolol (0.5), Mixed Ceramide Complex (2.0)
  • Water Part: Allantoin (0.5), Hydrolyzed Oat Protein (2.0), Blueberry Dry Extract (0.5), Hyaluronic Acid Solution 1% (3.0)
  • Preservative: 1.0
  • Fragrance: 2-3 drops

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The Allantoin Melt: As I always say, Allantoin can be temperamental and leave “grit” in your cream if you aren’t careful. I ensured it was completely “melted” into the hydrolyzed oat proteins before adding it to the cool cream.
  2. Heat Management: I kept the Rose Hip Oil for Phase C because it is quite sensitive to heat. Adding it at room temperature keeps its properties intact!
  3. The Color: The Blueberry Extract is a powder that gives the cream a lovely, soft color (as you can see in the photos!).
  4. Emulsification: I heated A and B to 70°C, poured B into A, and used the immersion mixer until it was a perfect white. Then, the long stir (30 mins!) with a spatula until cool.
  5. The Texture Trick: After adding all of Phase C and the preservative, I used the immersion mixer one last time. This really improved the final texture and made it look professional!
  6. pH Check: For this eye cream, I aimed for a pH of 6.5.

Final Verdict: This cream feels incredibly nourishing. It’s the perfect follow-up to a morning eye serum, providing that barrier of ceramides and butters that keeps the eye area looking rested and hydrated all day long. ENJOY! 😀

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How to make foot & hand cream: formulating!

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

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Formulating a Protective Barrier Cream (Hands & Feet)

In this experimental batch, I am documenting the creation of a high-lipid barrier cream designed for hands and feet. These areas require a specific “Heavy Emollient” profile—thick, protective, and highly hydrating. My goal was to achieve a 25% lipid load while maintaining a stable, professional texture.

Phase A: Rheology and Electrolyte Stability

In my lab notes, the choice of gelling agent for this formula was dictated by the active ingredients in Phase C.

  • Distilled Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 4.0% (Increased humectant levels for extreme dryness).

  • Xanthan Gum: 0.5% Technical Observation: I opted for a relatively high percentage of Xanthan Gum as the sole stabilizer. I purposely avoided Carbomer polymers because the high concentration of Urea (an electrolyte) in Phase C would compromise the carbomer’s lattice, leading to viscosity loss.

Phase B: The Heavy “Grease-Fall” and Protective Waxes

For a hand/foot treatment, the lipid profile shifts toward the “heavy” end of the Gaussian distribution.

  • The Lipid Cascade: I prioritized hard butters (Cocoa and Shea) to provide structure and occlusion.

  • The Role of Waxes: I’ve introduced Jojoba Wax at 2%. Waxes are not strictly part of the “Grease-Fall” fluidity; instead, they function as film-formers, providing a protective “glove” effect against environmental stressors.

Experimental Oil Phase (25% total fats):

  • Jojoba Wax: 2.0%

  • Cocoa Butter: 5.0%

  • Shea Butter: 10.0%

  • Argan Oil: 5.0%

  • Grape Seed Oil: 5.0%

Phase C: Managing Urea and pH Stability

Phase C contains the “Hero” ingredients, but they require careful chemical management.

  • Urea (10%): A potent humectant known for its water-binding and keratolytic (exfoliating) properties.

  • Gluconolactone (2%): In my research, Urea is known to cause a pH drift (becoming more alkaline over time). To counter this, I’ve included Gluconolactone as a buffering/sequestering agent to maintain pH stability.

  • Texture Modifier: I added Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (1%) to mitigate the greasiness of the 25% fat load, resulting in a matte, “velvet” after-feel.

My Batch Processing Workflow

  1. Hydration: I dispersed the Xanthan Gum in Glycerin before adding the water (setting aside 15g for the urea solution).

  2. Thermal Phase: Both Phase A and Phase B were heated to 70°C.

  3. Emulsification: Phase B was incorporated into Phase A in three stages using an immersion mixer.

  4. Urea Integration: Once the emulsion cooled to room temperature, I dissolved the Urea and Gluconolactone in the reserved 15g of water and integrated this into the base.

  5. Final Finish: I added the preservative, essential oils (Grapefruit and Mint), and a touch of food-grade coloring for aesthetic appeal.

Final QC Check: The pH was measured and found to be stable between 5.5 and 6.0.