Tag: eye cream

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Rheological Study — Microcirculation & Capillary Support

In this experimental session, I documented a cold-process emulsion designed specifically for the under-eye area. My research objective was to differentiate between hyperpigmentation and vascular congestion (leaking capillaries) and to test the efficacy of Escin and Caffeine in a silicone-stabilized matrix.

The Technical Theory: Vascular vs. Pigmentary Circles

My study focused on “Blue Circles,” which differ from ethnic hyperpigmentation.

• Mechanism: Fragile capillaries leak small amounts of blood into the delicate under-eye tissue. As the hemoglobin oxidizes, it creates a bluish, hematoma-like discoloration.

• The Strategy: Utilize venotonic and vasoconstrictive actives to reinforce capillary walls and improve lymphatic drainage.

Key Active Ingredients under Study

1. Escin (1.5%): A triterpene saponin derived from horse chestnut.

   • Properties: Vasoprotective and anti-inflammatory.

   • Processing Note: Highly heat-sensitive; must be integrated into the cool-down phase or a cold-process system.

   • Sensory Observation: Imparts a “dusty” olfactory profile to the emulsion. In my trials, fragrance oils failed to mask this scent adequately, leading me to omit fragrance in later iterations to avoid potential irritation.

2. Caffeine (1.0%): A xanthine alkaloid used for its lipolytic and stimulatory properties.

   • Role: Improves localized microcirculation to reduce edema (puffiness).

   • Solubility Note: Caffeine requires a slight thermal boost to achieve full dissolution in the aqueous phase.

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Experimental Formula: Case Study #EYE-RECOVERY-01

Phase	Component	% / grams	Function
A	Distilled Water	to 100	Solvent
A	Trimethylglycine (Betaine)	5.0	Osmolyte / Soothing
A	Caffeine	1.0	Microcirculation Active
A	Escin	1.5	Capillary Support
A	Hyaluronic Acid (1% Gel)	3.0	Humectant
B	Murumuru & Cocoa Butter	2.0 / 2.0	Barrier Lipids
B	Black Currant Oil	2.0	Linoleic-rich Lipid
B	Abil Care 85	2.0	Silicone-based Emulsifier
B	Tinovis ADE	1.2	Acrylate-based Thickener
C	Blueberry Powder Extract	0.4	Antioxidant
C	Preservative (Cosgard)	1.0	Safety

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Processing Observations & Methodology

1. Aqueous Solubilization: Caffeine was introduced to the water phase. Initial observations showed poor solubility at room temperature. The phase was gently heated until clear, then allowed to return to room temperature before adding the heat-sensitive Escin and Betaine.

2. Lipid Preparation: The Murumuru and Cocoa butters were melted separately, then blended with the liquid oils and the emulsifying system (Abil Care 85 / Tinovis ADE).

3. Emulsification: I utilized a Cold-Process Hybrid Method. Phase B was introduced into Phase A. Initial visual data showed a “broken” or heterogeneous appearance. Upon application of high-shear (immersion mixer), the Tinovis ADE uncoiled, and the Abil Care 85 stabilized the interface, resulting in a smooth, glossy emulsion.

4. Active Finish: The Blueberry Powder Extract was pre-dispersed in a small aliquot of the emulsion to ensure no particulate speckling before being folded into the final batch.

Researcher Summary

This formulation demonstrates excellent stability despite the high load of electrolytes and botanical extracts. The synergy between Caffeine and Escin provided a noticeable improvement in the appearance of localized puffiness.

Future Iteration: Given the “dusty” scent of Escin, I will investigate the use of a more refined Escin isolate or a specialized encapsulation to improve the sensory profile of the final cosmetic.