Tag: emulsifier

How to make a lotion: EMULSIFIERS pt.2 – THEORY

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These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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My Lab Notes: Hot vs. Cold — How I Choose My Emulsifier

Hello Hello! 😀 I’ve realized that while HLB is a great starting point for my experiments, it doesn’t tell the whole story of how an ingredient behaves once it hits my beaker. In my records, I’ve found that two things matter even more: The Process and The Percentage.

1. My Experience with Hot-Process (The Classics)

Most of the emulsifiers in my cupboard come as solid flakes or pearls. I’ve documented that these almost always need to hit 70°C to really “wake up” and work.

  • Self-Emulsifiers: I use things like Montanov 68 when I want a “complete meal” that works on its own.

  • The “Partnership” Method: I really enjoy pairing a hydrophilic emulsifier with a lipophilic one (like Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate). It gives me so much more control over whether the cream feels “velvet” or “rich.”

  • My Temperature Rule: Sips water. I’ve learned the hard way—if I don’t get both phases to the same temperature, the emulsion might look okay at first, but it will separate by tomorrow!

2. My “No-Heat” Days (The Cold Process)

Sometimes I use liquid emulsifiers that work at room temperature.

  • The Observations: I’ve noticed these usually produce much lighter, fresher textures—perfect for summer experiments!

  • The Lipid Constraint: I have to remind myself that since I’m not using heat, I can’t easily use my solid butters or waxes unless I change the whole plan.

How I Study My Ingredients

I’ve found that the best way for me to learn is by comparing. I like to make a “test base” and swap out only the emulsifier to see how the whiteness and thickness change.

Where I Get My Data

I never guess! I always keep the supplier’s notes on my desk. I look for:

  • The recommended usage (usually 2% to 5%).

  • The melting point. If a supplier doesn’t provide this, I don’t use the material. I need clear info for my records!

Every batch is a new chance to see how these “matchmakers” behave.

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

(Sources)

How to make a lotion – THEORY pt.2

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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My Lab Notes: The “Dance” of the Three Phases

Hello Hello! 😀 I’ve spent so much time reading about lipids and polymers, but there is nothing quite like the moment when theory actually turns into a cream in my beaker! It feels like a little bit of magic every time.

I’ve been looking over my process, and I’ve realized that I always follow a very specific “rhythm” to make sure my emulsions don’t fall apart. In my lab, I call it the Core Three Phase System.

The Three “Buckets”

I’ve learned the hard way that you can’t just throw everything in at once! Sips water. I always separate my ingredients into three beakers:

  • PHASE A (The Watery Side): The water, glycerin, and gums that need to get hot.

  • PHASE B (The Oily Side): My fats and the emulsifier.

  • PHASE C (The Sensitive Stuff): This is my “cool-down” phase. These are the actives and preservatives that absolutely HATE heat.

My Experience with the “Double Boiler”

One of the biggest lessons I’ve learned is about the Thermal Threshold. I put both beakers (A and B) in the double boiler and wait for them to hit 70°C.

  • Lab Observation: If I get impatient and one phase is colder than the other, it “shocks” the emulsifier. It’s like they don’t want to shake hands! They have to be at the same temperature to bond properly.

The Mixing Moment (High-Shear vs. Spatula)

Once they hit the temperature, I pour B into A. This is the fun part!

  • The Mixer: I use my immersion mixer, but I’ve learned to keep the head submerged. If I lift it even a little, I get those “macrobubbles” that make the cream look like a sponge later. Not a good look! 😉

  • The Patience: Once it turns white and starts to thicken, I put the mixer away and switch to my spatula. This can take 30 minutes of manual stirring while it cools. It’s a great arm workout! But I’ve found that slow, constant stirring makes the final texture much smoother.

The Final Additions

I wait until the beaker feels cool to the touch (below 40°C) before I touch Phase C. I’ve realized that if I add my preservatives or my favorite delicate oils (like Rose Hip) while it’s still hot, I’m basically destroying the very ingredients I spent so much money on!

What I’ve Noticed (My Failure Points)

Even after so many batches, things can still go wrong:

  • The “Soap” Effect: Sometimes a cream leaves a white trail on the skin. I’ve noticed this happens when my thickener-to-emulsifier ratio is a bit “off.”

  • Separation: Usually, if a batch separates, I can trace it back to me being too fast with the temperature or a miscalculation in the HLB.

It’s a journey of trial and error, and honestly, every batch is a new chance to learn something about how these materials behave. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄