Tag: azelaic acid

Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe

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LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Lab Note: The “Oil-Control” Spring Fluid

Hello Hello! 😀 With the spring days finally arriving, I wanted to formulate something light. This cream is specifically designed for oily skin that needs hydration without the weight. In fact, the oil percentage is so low it’s almost an “oil-free” cream!

The Oil-Control Duo:

  • Azeloglicine (6%): Pure Azelaic Acid is a nightmare to work with at home because it won’t dissolve in water or oil. Bingo! Azeloglicine is the answer. It’s a hydrophilic derivative that kills acne-causing bacteria and normalizes sebum.

  • Tiolisine Complex (2.5%): A sulfurated amino acid derivative that is a powerhouse for sebum-normalizing.

The Formula: Spring Oil-Control Fluid

Phase A (The Gel Base):

  • Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 2.5

  • Xanthan Gum (Non-transparent): 0.11

  • Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.3

Phase B (The Light Oily Phase):

  • Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 2.0 (Low % for a low-oil formula)

  • Cetyl Alcohol: 0.8 (Kept low to avoid a “waxy” feel)

  • Cetiol Sensoft: 1.5 (A very light synthetic oil for a smooth touch)

  • Evening Primrose Oil: 1.0

  • Hemp Oil: 0.5

  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0

Phase C1 (The “Dry” Finish):

  • Bisabolol: 0.5 (Soothing)

  • Dry Flo: 0.7 (Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate—for a matte finish!)

Phase C2 (The Actives):

  • Azeloglicine: 6.0

  • Tiolisine Complex: 2.5

  • Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0

  • Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. Consistency Matters: I intentionally made this a fluid lotion rather than a thick cream. For oily skin, thick textures can “feel” too rich or heavy. I prefer a light, milky fluid that sinks in immediately!

  2. The Wax Factor: If you want it thicker, you could raise the Cetyl Alcohol to 1.5%, but I don’t recommend it for oily skin—it can start to feel like a wax layer on your face.

  3. Active Power: Because Azeloglicine is water-soluble, it’s so much easier to incorporate into Phase C than trying to fight with pure Azelaic acid powder. It keeps the cream smooth and professional.

Final Verdict: This is my go-to when the weather gets warmer. It keeps the shine away while treating any little breakouts with the Tiolisine and Azeloglicine. It’s light, smooth, and fresh!

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😀 😀 😀