IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

Can you recognize a good Shampoo pt.4

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Hello there! 😀

This is finally the last chapter of the “Recognizing a good Shampoo” topic.
After the basics of shampoo surfactants in the part 1 and part 2 and in the last post (which you can find here) I talked about the most common “extra ingredients”.
I know I haven’t covered all the possible things but I did what I could 😀

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 4 — Useful Actives)

Hello Hello! :D To finish our journey through the shampoo bottle, we are looking at the “useful” ingredients—the actives that theoretically make a difference for your scalp and hair.

However, we must be realistic: a shampoo stays on your head for maybe a minute before it’s rinsed off. While these ingredients are great, they are often used at minimal amounts just to look good on the label. 😉 Here is what to look for!

1. The “Label Stars”: Vitamins & Hydrators

Panthenol (Vitamin B5): This is a famous one! It’s a humectant that helps hair retain water and creates a protective film. While it’s a great ingredient, don’t expect miracles from a shampoo alone since it barely has time to sink in.
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): A good antioxidant, but again, its effect in a wash-off product like shampoo is debatable. It’s often there more for “poetry” than performance! :D
Aloe Barbadensis: We hear so much about Aloe! It’s hydrating and soothing. Note: Some people are actually allergic to Aloe, so if you notice an itchy scalp after switching to an “Aloe shampoo,” that might be why!

2. Scalp Specialists: Dandruff & Oil

If you have a problematic scalp, look for these near the end of the INCI (usually used at ~1%):

Piroctone Olamine: A very effective ingredient for fighting dandruff.
Salicylic Acid: Often combined with Piroctone Olamine to help clear the scalp.

3. The “Energy” Boosters: Hair Growth Extracts

Take these with a pinch of salt! Hair loss is often genetic, and no shampoo is a “miracle cure.” However, these ingredients aim to improve scalp oxygenation and blood circulation:

Caffeine: Helps stimulate circulation in the scalp.
Arginine & Lysine: Amino acids that help repair hair and are thought to support growth.
Plant Extracts: Look for Ginkgo Biloba, Hops, Mallow, or Pumpkin Seed extract. They give the skin a little “energy,” but they aren’t magic!

4. My Favorite: Betaine (Trimethylglycine)

You know I love this one! :D Remember: this is NOT the surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Betaine). This is a humectant that makes detergents much milder.Pro Tip: If you find this ingredient near the beginning of the INCI (around 5%), you are almost certainly looking at a high-quality, mild shampoo.

Final Summary Table: Actives at a Glance

Ingredient	Primary Goal	Reality Check
Piroctone Olamine	Anti-Dandruff	Effective at ~1%
Caffeine / Arginine	Scalp Stimulation	May help, but not a “cure”
Panthenol	Hydration / Film	Good, but mostly marketing in shampoo
Trimethylglycine	Mildness	Great sign if high in the list!

That is it for our shampoo series! I hope you now feel like you have all the tools you need to choose the best product for your specific hair and scalp.

Have you spotted any of these “energy” ingredients on your favorite bottle? Let me know below! 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo? pt.3

So here we are, with the third part of he “Can you recognize a good Shampoo” posts! (you can check pt.1 and pt.2).

KEEP ON READING

Can you recognize a good shampoo? pt.2

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 2 — Glucosides)

Hello Hello! 😀 Following our session on SLES and Betaine, it is time to look at another very common surfactant combination: The Glucosides.

If you see these ingredients in an INCI, you are likely looking at a “Bio” or “Eco-friendly” shampoo. Glucosides are Non-Ionic surfactants, meaning they carry no electrical charge. They are prized in green chemistry because they are usually easily biodegradable and derived from natural sources.

Common Glucosides in the INCI:

Lauryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Coco Glucoside
Caprylyl/Capric Glucoside (A particularly good solubilizer for oils)

The “Gentle” Myth

It is important to remember: a “gentle” surfactant doesn’t automatically mean a gentle shampoo! A poorly formulated glucoside shampoo can still be aggressive, just as a well-formulated SLES shampoo can be very mild.

However, because they are non-ionic, they are generally less irritating to the scalp and are the “gold standard” for baby products and sensitive skin. The trade-off? They are less conditioning than the SLES+Betaine combo. A good formulator will compensate for this by adding extra conditioning agents or proteins.

INCI Case Studies: The Glucoside Base

Example 1: The Complex Herbal Blend

Water, Decyl Glucoside, Cocoglucoside, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, [Extracts], Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate...

Analysis: This is a very well-thought-out formula. Using two different glucosides followed by Betaine and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate creates a “surfactant cocktail.” The more surfactants you blend, the milder the result usually is. It looks like a very gentle, high-quality formulation!

Example 2: The “Minimalist” Eco-Shampoo

Water, Disodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, [Extracts]...

Analysis: Very simple and very green. All these surfactants are easily biodegradable and mild. However, notice the lack of conditioning agents. While “clean,” this shampoo might lack the wetting ability needed for thick hair and could leave it feeling a bit tangled.

Example 3: The Lipid-Enriched Formula

Aqua, Coco Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate...

Analysis: Here, Glyceryl Oleate is added specifically to “re-fat” the hair and make the wash even milder. You also see many essential oils (Tea Tree, Rosemary) added for sebum regulation. While honey is listed (great for label appeal!), its actual effect in a wash-off product is likely minimal compared to the surfactants.

Summary: Why Choose Glucosides?

Feature	Glucoside-Based Shampoos
Sustainability	High (Easily biodegradable)
Charge	Non-Ionic (No charge)
Skin Feel	Very low irritation, good for delicate scalps
Formulation	Often more expensive/difficult to thicken than SLES
Best For	Babies, eco-conscious consumers, very sensitive scalps

Interestingly, I have yet to find a “terrible” INCI that uses a glucoside base—usually, if a company is spending the money on these surfactants, they are also putting effort into the rest of the balance!

Do you have a “Green” shampoo at home? Check the label and see if you can spot these glucosides! 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo? pt. 1

Theory: How to Read a Shampoo INCI (Ingredient List)

Hello Hello! 😀 Today’s session is about a superpower every formulator should have: the ability to recognize a good shampoo just by looking at the label!

The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the list of everything inside a product. They are listed in order of percentage, except for ingredients below 1%, which can be listed in any order at the end. While we can’t know the exact percentages, our knowledge of formulation helps us see if a product is well-balanced or just “poetry.”

The Three Rules of the Lab:

Bio-Realism: I am not a “biodegradable-nazi.” I prefer eco-friendly ingredients, but I look for overall balance rather than perfection.
Listen to Your Hair: If a shampoo gives you an itchy scalp or greasy hair, stop using it—even if the INCI looks “perfect” on paper!
The 1% Line: Often, expensive plant extracts are listed above preservatives just for “label appeal,” even if they are only present at 0.01%. Don’t be fooled!

Analyzing the Surfactants

Surfactants are the “magic” that creates foam. In most commercial shampoos, the primary family is Anionic (negative charge), like SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate). SLES is effective and conditioning, but it can be aggressive if used alone.

The Golden Ratio: SLES + CAPB

The most common combination is SLES + Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB). To make a shampoo mild, the CAPB should ideally be at least 1/3 of the amount of SLES.

A Good Sign: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine...
A Red Flag: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride... Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Note: If Sodium Chloride (salt) appears before the Betaine, it usually means the Betaine is too low (under 1-2%) to effectively buffer the SLES.

INCI Case Studies

Example 1: The “Poetry” Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Citric Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine... [long list of extracts]

Analysis: Citric acid is usually used at max 1.5% to adjust pH. If it is in the 3rd position, everything following it (including the Betaine and all those fancy extracts) is likely at a very low concentration. This is mostly just SLES and water—very aggressive!

Example 2: The “Oily” Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside...

Analysis: This skips the Betaine but uses high levels of oils to buffer the SLES. While this feels milder, the oils might weigh down fine hair or cause issues for those with greasy scalps.

Example 3: The “Silicon Build-up” Formula

Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Dimethicone...

Analysis: Dimethicone (a silicone) is high up on the list. It will make hair look amazing the first few times, but it eventually builds up, leaving hair heavy and dull. Also, without CAPB, the SLES might still feel quite harsh.

Example 4: The Balanced Formula

Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Decyl Polyglucose...

Analysis: This is what we want to see! CAPB is in the 3rd position, followed by two more mild surfactants. It’s a complex, well-thought-out cleaning system.

Summary Table: Ingredients to Watch

Ingredient Type	What to look for	Function
Primary Surfactant	SLES, Sodium Coco Sulfate	Cleaning and Lather
Secondary Surfactant	Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glucosides	Mildness and Foam stability
Conditioners	Polyquaternium-7, Silicones, Guar	Manageability and Shine
Proteins	Hydrolyzed Wheat/Silk Protein	Film-forming protection
Thickeners	Sodium Chloride (Salt)	Adjusting viscosity

This is just the beginning of our INCI journey! In the next session, we will look at shampoos that use different surfactant bases beyond SLES.

Do you have a shampoo at home with a confusing INCI? Post it below and let’s analyze it! 😀

Babassu Body Cream – Recipe

Hello there! 😀

Lab Note: My “Smooth as Silk” Babassu & Shea Body Cream

Today I’m sharing a recipe for a rich body cream using a new emulsifier: Methyl Glucose Distearate. I’ve found the skin feel is even lighter than the “Sesquistearate” version, so I might start testing this for face creams too! yeheee!

For this body cream, I wanted it to feel luxurious but not greasy, so I chose Babassu Oil and Shea Butter, but balanced them with Dicaprylyl Ether to give it a nice “dry” finish.

The “Secret” Allantoin Trick:

I add Allantoin to almost everything because it’s so soothing and affordable. But it can be tricky to disperse! My secret? I found that it “melts” perfectly into Hydrolyzed Proteins. Now, I always pair them together in my Phase C—no more grainy creams! 😉

The Formula I Used:

Phase A (The Gel Base):

Water: to 100
Glycerin: 5.0
Xanthan Gum: 0.2
Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.4 (The “No-Stir” superstar!)

Phase B (The Precious Fats):

Methyl Glucose Distearate: 3.5 (The new emulsifier)
Cetyl Alcohol / Cetyl Palmitate: 0.8 / 0.7 (My thickening duo)
Shea Butter: 6.0
Babassu Oil: 8.0
Rose Hip Oil: 3.0
Dicaprylyl Ether: 3.0 (For that “dry” touch)

Phase C (The Active Finish):

Hydrolyzed Oat Proteins: 3.0
Allantoin: 0.4 (Pre-mixed into the proteins!)
Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0
Fragrance Oil: A few drops

Notes from my Beaker:

The Carbopol Ritual: I measured the Carbopol Ultrez 21 and just poured it on top of the water. Do not mix it! Just let it sit and hydrate slowly while it sits on the surface. After a few minutes, it looks like water with little whitish pieces—that’s perfect! It only becomes a gel once the pH hits 5.
The Emulsion: I heated Phase A and B to 70°C. I added the Xanthan-glycerin slurry to the water just before mixing. Then, I slowly poured Phase B into Phase A while stirring with a spatula.
The Mixer: Once they are combined, it’s time for the immersion mixer! It turns white and liquid, but the mixer is what makes the “magic” emulsification happen.
The Ice Bath: You cannot skip the cooling process or it might separate! I used an ice bath to speed things up, stirring for about 30 minutes until it reached room temperature.
The Finish: I added my Phase C (with my Allantoin-Protein mix!), checked the pH, and adjusted it to 5.5.
The Waiting Game: Because of the Cetyl Alcohol and Palmitate, the cream keeps thickening for 24-48 hours. I left it in the beaker covered with plastic wrap for two days, stirring it every now and then, before finally putting it into jars.

Final Verdict: The texture is lovely! It’s rich because of the Shea and Babassu, but the new emulsifier and the Dicaprylyl Ether keep it from feeling “heavy.” And thanks to the protein trick, the Allantoin is perfectly smooth. ENJOY! 😀 😀 😀

Amla Power – DIY Spicy Shampoo

Lab Note: “Amla Power” Spicy Shampoo (The Poetic Effect!)

Hello Hello! 😀 Instead of trying to invent a “miracle anti-gravity” cream today, I decided to focus on something I really needed: a new shampoo!

I formulated this one for the “Autumn hair loss” season. I’m not saying I found a high-tech miracle cure—I’m not even sure those exist! Instead, I used a simple trick: Spicy Essential Oils to help stimulate blood circulation in the scalp. Plus, I added the “Prince” of Indian hair care: Amla Powder!

The Amla Legend

I bought this Amla in India. There, it’s believed to do everything: strengthen follicles, stop dandruff, prevent graying, and even straighten hair! Sips water. If you know me, you know I don’t blindly believe in miracles, but I love the history of Amla, so I added it for The Poetic Effect. 🙂

A Formulator’s Warning: Adding powders to shampoo is tricky! Unless your shampoo is super thick, the powder will eventually sink to the bottom. It can also mess with stability, so I used a higher level of preservative and made a small batch (100g) to be used quickly!

The Formula: Spicy Amla Power

Phase A:

Water: to 100
Amla Powder: 0.2 (For the poetry!)
Glycerin: 3.0
Inulin: 1.0 (For smoothing)
Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins: 2.5
Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0

Phase B (The Surfactant Base):

SLES: 25.0
Coco Glucoside / Glyceryl Oleate: 2.5
Decyl Glucoside: 2.5

Phase C (The “Spice” & Conditioning):

Polyquaternium 7: 2.0 (The conditioner)
EO of Cinnamon: 10 drops
EO of Cardamom: 5 drops
EO of Sweet Orange: 5 drops

Phase D (The Thickener):

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 10.0 (The key to the texture!)
pH adjusted to 4.5 with Citric Acid

Notes from my Beaker:

Dispersing the Amla: At first, the Amla powder just floated there, so I hit it with the immersion mixer until Phase A was uniform.
Surfactant Magic: I mixed the Phase B surfactants first. It’s always satisfying to see that thick, pearly density start to form!
One by One: I added the Phase C ingredients (Polyquat and oils) to the surfactants one at a time. I’m not very patient about bubbles :D, so there were a few, but that’s okay!
The Big Mix: I poured the watery Phase A into the thick Phase B very slowly. It became very liquid at first—but don’t panic!
The “Betaine Flip”: As soon as I added the Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Phase D), the whole thing became dense and thick like a real shampoo. It’s my favorite part of the process!

Final Verdict: It smells incredible—like a spicy tea for your head! My hair felt strong and the scalp felt “awake.” Just remember to shake it if the Amla starts to settle!

Winter Delight – Lip Rescue Balm

Hello there I AM BACK! 😀

Lab Note: The “Winter Delight” Lip Rescue (Lola’s Recipe!)

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am sharing what is truly the best lip balm recipe I have ever tried. This isn’t my invention—it was created by Lola, the founder of the forum where I learned so much of my formulation knowledge! I’ve been making this for over two years, so it is very well tested.

The Hydration Secret

Most lip balms are 100% oil and wax. We always hear that “Shea butter hydrates,” but actually, it doesn’t! 😀 Oils create a layer that stops water from leaving, but they don’t add any new water. Eventually, your lips still end up dry.

What makes this recipe special? It actually contains a water phase! By adding honey and glycerin, we are finally giving the lips real hydration. And the best part? The ingredients are extremely easy to find!

The Formula: Winter Delight

Oil Phase:

Beeswax: 20.0 (Use yellow virgin wax for the best scent! :D)
Rice Bran Oil: 45.0
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): 10.0
Vanillin: A tiny pinch (for that amazing aroma)

Water Phase:

Glycerin: 5.0
Honey: 20.0

Phase C:

Sweet Orange Essential Oil: 5 drops
[NEW 2026 UPDATE]: A lip-safe preservative (see notes below!)

Notes from my Beaker: The “Drop-by-Drop” Method

Modified Cold Cream: This recipe doesn’t use a traditional emulsifier. Instead, it uses the “mechanical” method. I heated the oil phase and water phase separately.
Patience is Key: Once the wax melted, I started adding the water phase DROP BY DROP into the oil. I had to stir constantly for about 30 minutes!
The Goal: I am trying to create tiny water droplets that get “trapped” and held in place as the beeswax cools and solidifies.
Spoon vs. Mixer: I tried using a mini-mixer this time, but it created too many bubbles (making it look very white). A simple spatula or spoon actually works better for a creamy, stable result. Lesson learned! 😀
Add the PRESERVATIVE
The Scent: The mix of honey, vanillin, and sweet orange is absolutely IRRESISTIBLE.

⚠️ SAFETY UPDATE: A Note on Preservatives

In the original version of this post, I mentioned that this recipe doesn’t need a preservative because the high sugar in the honey and the glycerin “occupy” the water. While that chemistry is true, I have updated my lab practice! Because we use our fingers to apply this from a tin, it’s very easy to introduce bacteria. For 100% peace of mind, I now strongly recommend adding a lip-safe or food-grade preservative. Safety first for those beautiful lips! 😀

Final Verdict: This is a creamy balm, so it won’t work in a twist-up stick—keep it in a little tin. It’s a total lifesaver for winter. ENJOY! 😀 😀 😀

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 4 — Useful Actives)

1. The “Label Stars”: Vitamins & Hydrators

2. Scalp Specialists: Dandruff & Oil

3. The “Energy” Boosters: Hair Growth Extracts

4. My Favorite: Betaine (Trimethylglycine)

Final Summary Table: Actives at a Glance

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Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 2 — Glucosides)

Common Glucosides in the INCI:

The “Gentle” Myth

INCI Case Studies: The Glucoside Base

Example 1: The Complex Herbal Blend

Example 2: The “Minimalist” Eco-Shampoo

Example 3: The Lipid-Enriched Formula

Summary: Why Choose Glucosides?

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Theory: How to Read a Shampoo INCI (Ingredient List)

The Three Rules of the Lab:

Analyzing the Surfactants

The Golden Ratio: SLES + CAPB

INCI Case Studies

Example 1: The “Poetry” Formula

Example 2: The “Oily” Formula

Example 3: The “Silicon Build-up” Formula

Example 4: The Balanced Formula

Summary Table: Ingredients to Watch

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Lab Note: My “Smooth as Silk” Babassu & Shea Body Cream

The “Secret” Allantoin Trick:

The Formula I Used:

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: “Amla Power” Spicy Shampoo (The Poetic Effect!)

The Amla Legend

The Formula: Spicy Amla Power

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: The “Winter Delight” Lip Rescue (Lola’s Recipe!)

The Hydration Secret

The Formula: Winter Delight

Notes from my Beaker: The “Drop-by-Drop” Method

⚠️ SAFETY UPDATE: A Note on Preservatives

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