Hair – IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

How to Formulate a Solid Shampoo

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Hello everyone! 🙂

Today I talk about how to formulate a Solid Shampoo.

Solid-State Detergent Theory (The Syndet Bar)

In this experimental session, I documented the formulation of a Solid Shampoo Bar. It is crucial to categorize this product as a Syndette, not a soap. While traditional soaps are produced through saponification, a Syndet is engineered using concentrated surfactants. My research objective was to manage the “Active Surfactant Matter” (ASM) to create a product that is both structurally solid and dermatologically mild.

The Formulation Challenge: Aggression vs. Concentration

A solid shampoo typically contains a massive surfactant load (55%–85%). While this makes the bar highly effective and travel-friendly, it presents two major hurdles for the formulator:

Production Cost: The raw material cost of concentrated surfactants is significantly higher than the fats used in soap-making.
Potential Irritancy: With such high active matter, the risk of skin aggression is extreme.

The Technical Strategy: Surfactant “Taming”

To mitigate the aggression of the ionic surfactants, I utilized two sophisticated strategies in my lab:

Complexation: Instead of a single surfactant, I created a “cocktail” of SLSA, SCI, and SCS. Mixing different surfactant head-groups creates smaller, milder micelles.
Incompatibility Theory: I intentionally introduced a Cationic Surfactant (Behentrimonium Chloride) into an Anionic system. While these are technically “incompatible,” the resulting interaction in a solid state significantly reduces the harshness of the wash.

Experimental Formula: Case Study #SYNDET-BAR-01

Phase	Component	% / grams	Function
A	SLSA / SCI / SCS	35.0 / 10.0 / 10.0	Primary Powder Surfactants
A	Cocamidopropyl Betaine	20.0	Amphoteric “Buffer” (Liquid)
B	Cocoa Butter / Argan Oil	7.0 / 3.0	Lipid Refatting Agents
B	Behentrimonium Chloride	10.0	Cationic Conditioning Agent
B	Cetearyl Alcohol	3.0	Structural Rheology Modifier
C	Fragrance Oil / Preservative	1.5 / 0.5	Aesthetics & Protection

Processing & Thermal Observations

The Melting Challenge: Melting pure powder surfactants is an arduous process. I’ve documented that the water content in the Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Phase A) acts as a necessary solvent to facilitate the transition to a paste.
Phase B Integration: I melted the butters, cationic conditioner, and cetearyl alcohol together. For future batches, I would recommend melting Phase B separately before adding it to the surfactant “cauldron” to ensure a smoother homogenization and a faster workflow.
Thermal Sensitivity: The “soapy paste” was allowed to cool to 35°C before integrating the fragrance and preservative to ensure their efficacy wasn’t compromised by the heat required to melt the SCI.
Setting & Curing: I utilized a Freezer-Set method for quick unmolding. However, I’ve noted that a 48-hour “drying” or curing period is required at room temperature to allow the bar to reach its final structural hardness.

Researcher Summary & Sensory Evaluation

The final bar exhibited excellent “wetting” ability and produced a sophisticated, dense lather of small bubbles.

Critical Refinement: Despite the high surfactant load, the 10% lipid phase (butters/oils) resulted in a slightly “waxy” after-feel on the hair. In my next experimental iteration, I will reduce the total lipid load to 5-7% to increase the “cleansing clarity” of the formula while maintaining enough emollience to keep the bar mild.

No-Drandruff Shampoo

Lab Note: My “No Dandruff” Scalp-Calming Shampoo

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am tackling something that is usually so annoying to deal with: dandruff! I got tired of the shampoos from the supermarket because they are so aggressive—they might kill the fungus, but they leave the scalp red and the hair feeling like straw. No thanks! 😛

I wanted to make a “Smart Shampoo.” Something that uses a real antifungal active but surrounds it with ingredients that actually soothe the skin and protect the hair.

The “Clear Scalp” Strategy:

The hero of my formula is Piroctone Olamine. Unlike the “Zinc” stuff you find in cheap shampoos, Piroctone Olamine is much more elegant—it’s very effective against the Malassezia fungus but it’s gentle. I also added Salicylic Acid to help “sweep away” the dead skin cells so the scalp can breathe again!

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 2
Polyquaternium-10 – 0.3 (This is a “conditioning” polymer—it helps the hair stay smooth even in a treatment shampoo!)

Phase B (The Cleansing Base):

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 15 (My favorite “soft” surfactant!)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 10
Coco-Glucoside – 5
Piroctone Olamine – 0.5 (The antifungal powerhouse!)

Phase C (The Calming Touch):

Salicylic Acid – 0.5 (I pre-dissolved this in the surfactants to make sure it didn’t stay “gritty”!)
Panthenol – 1 (To soothe the itchy scalp)
Preservative (According to my lab’s type)
Fragrance (I used Tea Tree and Lavender—Tea Tree helps the “No Dandruff” mission, and Lavender makes it smell like a spa! :D)
Lactic Acid (To reach pH 5.5)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Dissolving Trick: Piroctone Olamine and Salicylic Acid can be a bit stubborn. I found that if I mix them into the surfactant blend (Phase B) before adding the water, they dissolve much more easily. No one wants “grains” in their shampoo!
The pH is Critical: For Piroctone Olamine to be happy and stable, the pH needs to be around 5.5. If you go too low or too high, it might not work as well.
The Color: I left this one clear because I love how clean it looks. Without all the “fake blue” dyes of commercial shampoos, it looks so much more professional.
How I used it: Since this has an active medicine in it, I don’t just rinse it off immediately. I leave it on my scalp for about 3 minutes while I sing a song, then rinse! yeheee! 😀

Final Verdict: I don’t suffer of dandruff much but of itchiness sometimes I do, and this helped a lot 🙂

No SLES Shampoo DIY

My “No-SLES” Gentle Shampoo Experiment

Hello Hello! :D

I wanted something that felt sophisticated and gentle—a recipe that treats the scalp like skin rather than just “hair ground.” yeheee! :D
While I do not hate SLES at all and I find that they can be useful in many ways, at the same time I am trying something different because sometimes my scalp gets itchy by the aggressivness that a commercial SLES shampoo can carry. SLES shampoos are sometimes formulated poorly (maybe for keeping the costs low) and can therefore be too aggressive.

Here I have decided to experiment with a NON-SLES shampoo, simply to see what’s out there and what can be done differently.

The “Gentle” Strategy:

Instead of the usual SLES, I decided to play with a combination of Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and Glucosides. Sarcosinate is such a dream—it’s derived from an amino acid and it gives a beautiful, creamy foam without being a “bully” to the hair cuticle.

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 3
Polyquaternium-10 – 0.3 (I included this because it helps with the “combability”—no one likes bird-nest hair! :P)

Phase B (The Cleansing Blend):

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 12
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 8
Coco-Glucoside – 4
Lauryl Glucoside – 2 (This one is thick, so I had to be patient while mixing!)

Phase C:

Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins – 1 (For that “silk” touch I love!)
Panthenol – 0.5
Preservative (According to my lab’s setup)
Fragrance (I used a fresh, “Rain” scent—it feels so pure!)
Lactic Acid (To reach the “Golden pH” of 5.5)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Foam Surprise: I was actually worried that a No-SLES shampoo wouldn’t foam enough, but I was wrong! The Sarcosinate creates these tiny, dense bubbles that feel much more luxurious than the big, “air-filled” bubbles of cheap shampoos.
The pH is King: I was very careful to bring the pH down to 5.5. In my experience, this is the magic number for keeping the hair shiny and the scalp calm.
The Mixing Process: I mixed the surfactants together first before adding them to the water. I found that if I poured the water onto the surfactants, I ended up with way too many bubbles in the beaker. Slow and steady wins the race! :D
Scalp Feedback:

The most amazing thing happened when I checked the pH. I brought it down to 5.5 with Lactic Acid, and suddenly the texture became so beautiful and dense! I realized that you don’t need SLES to get a rich foam. The foam from the Sarcosinate is tiny and creamy—it feels like washing your hair with a cloud instead of a detergent.

I didn’t get any of that “squeaky” feeling that usually means the hair is dying for help. Instead, my scalp felt calm for the first time in weeks. It’s a huge win for me! However, to be fair, I don’t love the feeling in my hair, the wetting ability is not so good and so the search for the perfect shampoo is still open for me! Hope you enjoyed my experiments 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo pt.4

Hello there! 😀

This is finally the last chapter of the “Recognizing a good Shampoo” topic.
After the basics of shampoo surfactants in the part 1 and part 2 and in the last post (which you can find here) I talked about the most common “extra ingredients”.
I know I haven’t covered all the possible things but I did what I could 😀

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 4 — Useful Actives)

Hello Hello! :D To finish our journey through the shampoo bottle, we are looking at the “useful” ingredients—the actives that theoretically make a difference for your scalp and hair.

However, we must be realistic: a shampoo stays on your head for maybe a minute before it’s rinsed off. While these ingredients are great, they are often used at minimal amounts just to look good on the label. 😉 Here is what to look for!

1. The “Label Stars”: Vitamins & Hydrators

Panthenol (Vitamin B5): This is a famous one! It’s a humectant that helps hair retain water and creates a protective film. While it’s a great ingredient, don’t expect miracles from a shampoo alone since it barely has time to sink in.
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): A good antioxidant, but again, its effect in a wash-off product like shampoo is debatable. It’s often there more for “poetry” than performance! :D
Aloe Barbadensis: We hear so much about Aloe! It’s hydrating and soothing. Note: Some people are actually allergic to Aloe, so if you notice an itchy scalp after switching to an “Aloe shampoo,” that might be why!

2. Scalp Specialists: Dandruff & Oil

If you have a problematic scalp, look for these near the end of the INCI (usually used at ~1%):

Piroctone Olamine: A very effective ingredient for fighting dandruff.
Salicylic Acid: Often combined with Piroctone Olamine to help clear the scalp.

3. The “Energy” Boosters: Hair Growth Extracts

Take these with a pinch of salt! Hair loss is often genetic, and no shampoo is a “miracle cure.” However, these ingredients aim to improve scalp oxygenation and blood circulation:

Caffeine: Helps stimulate circulation in the scalp.
Arginine & Lysine: Amino acids that help repair hair and are thought to support growth.
Plant Extracts: Look for Ginkgo Biloba, Hops, Mallow, or Pumpkin Seed extract. They give the skin a little “energy,” but they aren’t magic!

4. My Favorite: Betaine (Trimethylglycine)

You know I love this one! :D Remember: this is NOT the surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Betaine). This is a humectant that makes detergents much milder.Pro Tip: If you find this ingredient near the beginning of the INCI (around 5%), you are almost certainly looking at a high-quality, mild shampoo.

Final Summary Table: Actives at a Glance

Ingredient	Primary Goal	Reality Check
Piroctone Olamine	Anti-Dandruff	Effective at ~1%
Caffeine / Arginine	Scalp Stimulation	May help, but not a “cure”
Panthenol	Hydration / Film	Good, but mostly marketing in shampoo
Trimethylglycine	Mildness	Great sign if high in the list!

That is it for our shampoo series! I hope you now feel like you have all the tools you need to choose the best product for your specific hair and scalp.

Have you spotted any of these “energy” ingredients on your favorite bottle? Let me know below! 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo? pt.3

So here we are, with the third part of he “Can you recognize a good Shampoo” posts! (you can check pt.1 and pt.2).

KEEP ON READING

Can you recognize a good shampoo? pt.2

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 2 — Glucosides)

Hello Hello! 😀 Following our session on SLES and Betaine, it is time to look at another very common surfactant combination: The Glucosides.

If you see these ingredients in an INCI, you are likely looking at a “Bio” or “Eco-friendly” shampoo. Glucosides are Non-Ionic surfactants, meaning they carry no electrical charge. They are prized in green chemistry because they are usually easily biodegradable and derived from natural sources.

Common Glucosides in the INCI:

Lauryl Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Coco Glucoside
Caprylyl/Capric Glucoside (A particularly good solubilizer for oils)

The “Gentle” Myth

It is important to remember: a “gentle” surfactant doesn’t automatically mean a gentle shampoo! A poorly formulated glucoside shampoo can still be aggressive, just as a well-formulated SLES shampoo can be very mild.

However, because they are non-ionic, they are generally less irritating to the scalp and are the “gold standard” for baby products and sensitive skin. The trade-off? They are less conditioning than the SLES+Betaine combo. A good formulator will compensate for this by adding extra conditioning agents or proteins.

INCI Case Studies: The Glucoside Base

Example 1: The Complex Herbal Blend

Water, Decyl Glucoside, Cocoglucoside, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, [Extracts], Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate...

Analysis: This is a very well-thought-out formula. Using two different glucosides followed by Betaine and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate creates a “surfactant cocktail.” The more surfactants you blend, the milder the result usually is. It looks like a very gentle, high-quality formulation!

Example 2: The “Minimalist” Eco-Shampoo

Water, Disodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, [Extracts]...

Analysis: Very simple and very green. All these surfactants are easily biodegradable and mild. However, notice the lack of conditioning agents. While “clean,” this shampoo might lack the wetting ability needed for thick hair and could leave it feeling a bit tangled.

Example 3: The Lipid-Enriched Formula

Aqua, Coco Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate...

Analysis: Here, Glyceryl Oleate is added specifically to “re-fat” the hair and make the wash even milder. You also see many essential oils (Tea Tree, Rosemary) added for sebum regulation. While honey is listed (great for label appeal!), its actual effect in a wash-off product is likely minimal compared to the surfactants.

Summary: Why Choose Glucosides?

Feature	Glucoside-Based Shampoos
Sustainability	High (Easily biodegradable)
Charge	Non-Ionic (No charge)
Skin Feel	Very low irritation, good for delicate scalps
Formulation	Often more expensive/difficult to thicken than SLES
Best For	Babies, eco-conscious consumers, very sensitive scalps

Interestingly, I have yet to find a “terrible” INCI that uses a glucoside base—usually, if a company is spending the money on these surfactants, they are also putting effort into the rest of the balance!

Do you have a “Green” shampoo at home? Check the label and see if you can spot these glucosides! 😀

Amla Power – DIY Spicy Shampoo

Lab Note: “Amla Power” Spicy Shampoo (The Poetic Effect!)

Hello Hello! 😀 Instead of trying to invent a “miracle anti-gravity” cream today, I decided to focus on something I really needed: a new shampoo!

I formulated this one for the “Autumn hair loss” season. I’m not saying I found a high-tech miracle cure—I’m not even sure those exist! Instead, I used a simple trick: Spicy Essential Oils to help stimulate blood circulation in the scalp. Plus, I added the “Prince” of Indian hair care: Amla Powder!

The Amla Legend

I bought this Amla in India. There, it’s believed to do everything: strengthen follicles, stop dandruff, prevent graying, and even straighten hair! Sips water. If you know me, you know I don’t blindly believe in miracles, but I love the history of Amla, so I added it for The Poetic Effect. 🙂

A Formulator’s Warning: Adding powders to shampoo is tricky! Unless your shampoo is super thick, the powder will eventually sink to the bottom. It can also mess with stability, so I used a higher level of preservative and made a small batch (100g) to be used quickly!

The Formula: Spicy Amla Power

Phase A:

Water: to 100
Amla Powder: 0.2 (For the poetry!)
Glycerin: 3.0
Inulin: 1.0 (For smoothing)
Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins: 2.5
Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0

Phase B (The Surfactant Base):

SLES: 25.0
Coco Glucoside / Glyceryl Oleate: 2.5
Decyl Glucoside: 2.5

Phase C (The “Spice” & Conditioning):

Polyquaternium 7: 2.0 (The conditioner)
EO of Cinnamon: 10 drops
EO of Cardamom: 5 drops
EO of Sweet Orange: 5 drops

Phase D (The Thickener):

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: 10.0 (The key to the texture!)
pH adjusted to 4.5 with Citric Acid

Notes from my Beaker:

Dispersing the Amla: At first, the Amla powder just floated there, so I hit it with the immersion mixer until Phase A was uniform.
Surfactant Magic: I mixed the Phase B surfactants first. It’s always satisfying to see that thick, pearly density start to form!
One by One: I added the Phase C ingredients (Polyquat and oils) to the surfactants one at a time. I’m not very patient about bubbles :D, so there were a few, but that’s okay!
The Big Mix: I poured the watery Phase A into the thick Phase B very slowly. It became very liquid at first—but don’t panic!
The “Betaine Flip”: As soon as I added the Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Phase D), the whole thing became dense and thick like a real shampoo. It’s my favorite part of the process!

Final Verdict: It smells incredible—like a spicy tea for your head! My hair felt strong and the scalp felt “awake.” Just remember to shake it if the Amla starts to settle!

Solid-State Detergent Theory (The Syndet Bar)

The Formulation Challenge: Aggression vs. Concentration

The Technical Strategy: Surfactant “Taming”

Experimental Formula: Case Study #SYNDET-BAR-01

Processing & Thermal Observations

Researcher Summary & Sensory Evaluation

Share this:

Lab Note: My “No Dandruff” Scalp-Calming Shampoo

The “Clear Scalp” Strategy:

The Formula for my Experiment:

Notes from my Beaker:

Share this:

My “No-SLES” Gentle Shampoo Experiment

The “Gentle” Strategy:

The Formula for my Experiment:

Notes from my Beaker:

Share this:

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 4 — Useful Actives)

1. The “Label Stars”: Vitamins & Hydrators

2. Scalp Specialists: Dandruff & Oil

3. The “Energy” Boosters: Hair Growth Extracts

4. My Favorite: Betaine (Trimethylglycine)

Final Summary Table: Actives at a Glance

Share this:

Share this:

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 2 — Glucosides)

Common Glucosides in the INCI:

The “Gentle” Myth

INCI Case Studies: The Glucoside Base

Example 1: The Complex Herbal Blend

Example 2: The “Minimalist” Eco-Shampoo

Example 3: The Lipid-Enriched Formula

Summary: Why Choose Glucosides?

Share this:

Lab Note: “Amla Power” Spicy Shampoo (The Poetic Effect!)

The Amla Legend

The Formula: Spicy Amla Power

Notes from my Beaker:

Share this: