Detergents – IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS

No Foam Face Wash

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Lab Note: My “No-Foam” Gentle Face Wash

Hello Hello! :D This recipe is very special to me. For two years, I struggled with a constant, annoying form of acne. I was doing everything “right” according to the commercials—scrubbing like crazy, using alcoholic toners, and applying aggressive creams. Nothing worked!

Then, I finally decided to give my skin a break. I stopped the aggression and started treating my skin with respect. This face wash was a huge part of that. It doesn’t make a big foam, and it doesn’t leave your skin feeling “squeaky” (which usually just means “stripped!“), but it cleans perfectly.

The “Why” behind the formula:

I wanted a very delicate ASM of only 6.5%. Most shampoos are 15%, so you can see how much gentler this is! I also used a “Trio” of surfactants to keep it balanced:

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate: My primary surfactant. It’s so much softer than SLES!
Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Added specifically to make the first one even milder.
Lauryl Glucoside: A non-ionic touch to keep everything stable.

The Formula:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 3
Xanthan Gum 0.5 (I add this because Sarcosinate loves to become as liquid as water! This gives it a little “body” so it doesn’t slip through your fingers.)
Preservative (Water-soluble!)

Phase B:

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 10
Lauryl Glucoside – 2 (It’s a dense paste, so microwave it for a few seconds first! :D)
Lavender EO – 2 drops
Sage EO – 2 drops (I love these for acne-prone skin because they are so soothing.)

Phase C:

Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 6
Lactic Acid (To reach pH 5—this is the secret to making it dense!)

Notes from the Beaker:

Mixing with Love: I mixed everything very slowly with a spoon. If you mix too fast, you get a beaker full of bubbles and you’ll have to wait ages for them to go away!
The pH Secret: This is the most important part! You must lower the pH to 5 using Lactic or Citric acid. One drop at a time! When you hit pH 5, the Sarcosinate suddenly becomes dense and “creamy.” If you go lower than 5, it might go liquid again, so be careful! 😉
The Order: I add the Betaine (Phase C) at the very end. Sometimes adding it too early makes the whole thing “melt” into a liquid mess.
A Touch of Color: I added one tiny drop of blue food coloring just to make it look pretty and fun in my bathroom.

Final Verdict: This face wash doesn’t “shout,” but it works. It leaves my skin calm, hydrated, and happy. If you are tired of aggressive products, give this a try! ENJOY! 🙂

How to Formulate a Solid Shampoo

Hello everyone! 🙂

Today I talk about how to formulate a Solid Shampoo.

Solid-State Detergent Theory (The Syndet Bar)

In this experimental session, I documented the formulation of a Solid Shampoo Bar. It is crucial to categorize this product as a Syndette, not a soap. While traditional soaps are produced through saponification, a Syndet is engineered using concentrated surfactants. My research objective was to manage the “Active Surfactant Matter” (ASM) to create a product that is both structurally solid and dermatologically mild.

The Formulation Challenge: Aggression vs. Concentration

A solid shampoo typically contains a massive surfactant load (55%–85%). While this makes the bar highly effective and travel-friendly, it presents two major hurdles for the formulator:

Production Cost: The raw material cost of concentrated surfactants is significantly higher than the fats used in soap-making.
Potential Irritancy: With such high active matter, the risk of skin aggression is extreme.

The Technical Strategy: Surfactant “Taming”

To mitigate the aggression of the ionic surfactants, I utilized two sophisticated strategies in my lab:

Complexation: Instead of a single surfactant, I created a “cocktail” of SLSA, SCI, and SCS. Mixing different surfactant head-groups creates smaller, milder micelles.
Incompatibility Theory: I intentionally introduced a Cationic Surfactant (Behentrimonium Chloride) into an Anionic system. While these are technically “incompatible,” the resulting interaction in a solid state significantly reduces the harshness of the wash.

Experimental Formula: Case Study #SYNDET-BAR-01

Phase	Component	% / grams	Function
A	SLSA / SCI / SCS	35.0 / 10.0 / 10.0	Primary Powder Surfactants
A	Cocamidopropyl Betaine	20.0	Amphoteric “Buffer” (Liquid)
B	Cocoa Butter / Argan Oil	7.0 / 3.0	Lipid Refatting Agents
B	Behentrimonium Chloride	10.0	Cationic Conditioning Agent
B	Cetearyl Alcohol	3.0	Structural Rheology Modifier
C	Fragrance Oil / Preservative	1.5 / 0.5	Aesthetics & Protection

Processing & Thermal Observations

The Melting Challenge: Melting pure powder surfactants is an arduous process. I’ve documented that the water content in the Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Phase A) acts as a necessary solvent to facilitate the transition to a paste.
Phase B Integration: I melted the butters, cationic conditioner, and cetearyl alcohol together. For future batches, I would recommend melting Phase B separately before adding it to the surfactant “cauldron” to ensure a smoother homogenization and a faster workflow.
Thermal Sensitivity: The “soapy paste” was allowed to cool to 35°C before integrating the fragrance and preservative to ensure their efficacy wasn’t compromised by the heat required to melt the SCI.
Setting & Curing: I utilized a Freezer-Set method for quick unmolding. However, I’ve noted that a 48-hour “drying” or curing period is required at room temperature to allow the bar to reach its final structural hardness.

Researcher Summary & Sensory Evaluation

The final bar exhibited excellent “wetting” ability and produced a sophisticated, dense lather of small bubbles.

Critical Refinement: Despite the high surfactant load, the 10% lipid phase (butters/oils) resulted in a slightly “waxy” after-feel on the hair. In my next experimental iteration, I will reduce the total lipid load to 5-7% to increase the “cleansing clarity” of the formula while maintaining enough emollience to keep the bar mild.

Pearl Sensation – Face Wash Recipe

Lab Note: My “Pearl Sensation” Luxury Face Wash

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m obsessed with a texture. I wanted to create a face wash that felt like something you’d find in a high-end spa—something with that beautiful, silky, pearlescent glow that catches the light in the bottle.

I’ve made many face washes, but for this one, the challenge was to keep it super gentle for the skin while getting that “wow” visual effect. yeheee! 😀

The “Pearl” Strategy:

To get that shimmering look, I used a Pearlizing Agent (usually a mix of Glycol Distearate). But here’s what I noticed: if you use too much, it can make the wash feel “waxy.” I had to find the perfect balance so it stayed liquid and easy to rinse, but still looked like liquid silk.

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 3
Xanthan Gum (Transparent Version) – 0.4 (I used the transparent one so it wouldn’t cloud the “pearl” shimmer!)

Phase B (The Gentle Cleansing Trio):

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 10 (My favorite for a soft, skin-friendly clean.)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 8
Coco-Glucoside – 2
Pearlizing Wax (Euperlan PK 771) – 3 (This is where the “Sensation” comes from!)

Phase C (The Finishing Touches):

Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins – 1 (To match the name! 😉 )
Preservative (According to the type I have)
Lactic Acid (To bring the pH to 5.5)
Fragrance (I used a very soft “Baby Powder” and “Cotton” scent—it feels so clean!)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Visual Magic: I noticed that the “pearl” effect doesn’t show up immediately. When the mixture is hot or just freshly stirred, it looks a bit “blah.” But as it cools and the surfactants settle, the shimmering “waves” start to appear. It’s so satisfying to watch!
No Bubbles Please: Just like my other washes, I stirred this very slowly. If I incorporate too much air, the bubbles get trapped in the pearlescent “silk” and it looks messy. Patience is key! 😀
The pH Density: I found that when I hit pH 5.5, the Sarcosinate and the Pearlizing agent work together to get the perfect density. It’s not too liquid, not too thick—it’s just right for a pump bottle.
Gentleness Check: Even with the “fancy” look, I kept the ASM (Active Surfactant Matter) low. My skin didn’t feel tight or “squeaky” afterward, just very soft.

Final Verdict: This is definitely the prettiest thing on my bathroom shelf right now. It’s gentle, it’s shimmering, and it makes washing my face feel like a little luxury every morning. ENJOY! 😀

No-Drandruff Shampoo

Lab Note: My “No Dandruff” Scalp-Calming Shampoo

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I am tackling something that is usually so annoying to deal with: dandruff! I got tired of the shampoos from the supermarket because they are so aggressive—they might kill the fungus, but they leave the scalp red and the hair feeling like straw. No thanks! 😛

I wanted to make a “Smart Shampoo.” Something that uses a real antifungal active but surrounds it with ingredients that actually soothe the skin and protect the hair.

The “Clear Scalp” Strategy:

The hero of my formula is Piroctone Olamine. Unlike the “Zinc” stuff you find in cheap shampoos, Piroctone Olamine is much more elegant—it’s very effective against the Malassezia fungus but it’s gentle. I also added Salicylic Acid to help “sweep away” the dead skin cells so the scalp can breathe again!

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 2
Polyquaternium-10 – 0.3 (This is a “conditioning” polymer—it helps the hair stay smooth even in a treatment shampoo!)

Phase B (The Cleansing Base):

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 15 (My favorite “soft” surfactant!)
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 10
Coco-Glucoside – 5
Piroctone Olamine – 0.5 (The antifungal powerhouse!)

Phase C (The Calming Touch):

Salicylic Acid – 0.5 (I pre-dissolved this in the surfactants to make sure it didn’t stay “gritty”!)
Panthenol – 1 (To soothe the itchy scalp)
Preservative (According to my lab’s type)
Fragrance (I used Tea Tree and Lavender—Tea Tree helps the “No Dandruff” mission, and Lavender makes it smell like a spa! :D)
Lactic Acid (To reach pH 5.5)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Dissolving Trick: Piroctone Olamine and Salicylic Acid can be a bit stubborn. I found that if I mix them into the surfactant blend (Phase B) before adding the water, they dissolve much more easily. No one wants “grains” in their shampoo!
The pH is Critical: For Piroctone Olamine to be happy and stable, the pH needs to be around 5.5. If you go too low or too high, it might not work as well.
The Color: I left this one clear because I love how clean it looks. Without all the “fake blue” dyes of commercial shampoos, it looks so much more professional.
How I used it: Since this has an active medicine in it, I don’t just rinse it off immediately. I leave it on my scalp for about 3 minutes while I sing a song, then rinse! yeheee! 😀

Final Verdict: I don’t suffer of dandruff much but of itchiness sometimes I do, and this helped a lot 🙂

No SLES Shampoo DIY

My “No-SLES” Gentle Shampoo Experiment

Hello Hello! :D

I wanted something that felt sophisticated and gentle—a recipe that treats the scalp like skin rather than just “hair ground.” yeheee! :D
While I do not hate SLES at all and I find that they can be useful in many ways, at the same time I am trying something different because sometimes my scalp gets itchy by the aggressivness that a commercial SLES shampoo can carry. SLES shampoos are sometimes formulated poorly (maybe for keeping the costs low) and can therefore be too aggressive.

Here I have decided to experiment with a NON-SLES shampoo, simply to see what’s out there and what can be done differently.

The “Gentle” Strategy:

Instead of the usual SLES, I decided to play with a combination of Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and Glucosides. Sarcosinate is such a dream—it’s derived from an amino acid and it gives a beautiful, creamy foam without being a “bully” to the hair cuticle.

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

Water to 100
Glycerin 3
Polyquaternium-10 – 0.3 (I included this because it helps with the “combability”—no one likes bird-nest hair! :P)

Phase B (The Cleansing Blend):

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 12
Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 8
Coco-Glucoside – 4
Lauryl Glucoside – 2 (This one is thick, so I had to be patient while mixing!)

Phase C:

Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins – 1 (For that “silk” touch I love!)
Panthenol – 0.5
Preservative (According to my lab’s setup)
Fragrance (I used a fresh, “Rain” scent—it feels so pure!)
Lactic Acid (To reach the “Golden pH” of 5.5)

Notes from my Beaker:

The Foam Surprise: I was actually worried that a No-SLES shampoo wouldn’t foam enough, but I was wrong! The Sarcosinate creates these tiny, dense bubbles that feel much more luxurious than the big, “air-filled” bubbles of cheap shampoos.
The pH is King: I was very careful to bring the pH down to 5.5. In my experience, this is the magic number for keeping the hair shiny and the scalp calm.
The Mixing Process: I mixed the surfactants together first before adding them to the water. I found that if I poured the water onto the surfactants, I ended up with way too many bubbles in the beaker. Slow and steady wins the race! :D
Scalp Feedback:

The most amazing thing happened when I checked the pH. I brought it down to 5.5 with Lactic Acid, and suddenly the texture became so beautiful and dense! I realized that you don’t need SLES to get a rich foam. The foam from the Sarcosinate is tiny and creamy—it feels like washing your hair with a cloud instead of a detergent.

I didn’t get any of that “squeaky” feeling that usually means the hair is dying for help. Instead, my scalp felt calm for the first time in weeks. It’s a huge win for me! However, to be fair, I don’t love the feeling in my hair, the wetting ability is not so good and so the search for the perfect shampoo is still open for me! Hope you enjoyed my experiments 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo pt.4

Hello there! 😀

This is finally the last chapter of the “Recognizing a good Shampoo” topic.
After the basics of shampoo surfactants in the part 1 and part 2 and in the last post (which you can find here) I talked about the most common “extra ingredients”.
I know I haven’t covered all the possible things but I did what I could 😀

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 4 — Useful Actives)

Hello Hello! :D To finish our journey through the shampoo bottle, we are looking at the “useful” ingredients—the actives that theoretically make a difference for your scalp and hair.

However, we must be realistic: a shampoo stays on your head for maybe a minute before it’s rinsed off. While these ingredients are great, they are often used at minimal amounts just to look good on the label. 😉 Here is what to look for!

1. The “Label Stars”: Vitamins & Hydrators

Panthenol (Vitamin B5): This is a famous one! It’s a humectant that helps hair retain water and creates a protective film. While it’s a great ingredient, don’t expect miracles from a shampoo alone since it barely has time to sink in.
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): A good antioxidant, but again, its effect in a wash-off product like shampoo is debatable. It’s often there more for “poetry” than performance! :D
Aloe Barbadensis: We hear so much about Aloe! It’s hydrating and soothing. Note: Some people are actually allergic to Aloe, so if you notice an itchy scalp after switching to an “Aloe shampoo,” that might be why!

2. Scalp Specialists: Dandruff & Oil

If you have a problematic scalp, look for these near the end of the INCI (usually used at ~1%):

Piroctone Olamine: A very effective ingredient for fighting dandruff.
Salicylic Acid: Often combined with Piroctone Olamine to help clear the scalp.

3. The “Energy” Boosters: Hair Growth Extracts

Take these with a pinch of salt! Hair loss is often genetic, and no shampoo is a “miracle cure.” However, these ingredients aim to improve scalp oxygenation and blood circulation:

Caffeine: Helps stimulate circulation in the scalp.
Arginine & Lysine: Amino acids that help repair hair and are thought to support growth.
Plant Extracts: Look for Ginkgo Biloba, Hops, Mallow, or Pumpkin Seed extract. They give the skin a little “energy,” but they aren’t magic!

4. My Favorite: Betaine (Trimethylglycine)

You know I love this one! :D Remember: this is NOT the surfactant (Cocamidopropyl Betaine). This is a humectant that makes detergents much milder.Pro Tip: If you find this ingredient near the beginning of the INCI (around 5%), you are almost certainly looking at a high-quality, mild shampoo.

Final Summary Table: Actives at a Glance

Ingredient	Primary Goal	Reality Check
Piroctone Olamine	Anti-Dandruff	Effective at ~1%
Caffeine / Arginine	Scalp Stimulation	May help, but not a “cure”
Panthenol	Hydration / Film	Good, but mostly marketing in shampoo
Trimethylglycine	Mildness	Great sign if high in the list!

That is it for our shampoo series! I hope you now feel like you have all the tools you need to choose the best product for your specific hair and scalp.

Have you spotted any of these “energy” ingredients on your favorite bottle? Let me know below! 😀

Can you recognize a good Shampoo? pt.3

So here we are, with the third part of he “Can you recognize a good Shampoo” posts! (you can check pt.1 and pt.2).

KEEP ON READING

Lab Note: My “No-Foam” Gentle Face Wash

The “Why” behind the formula:

The Formula:

Notes from the Beaker:

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Solid-State Detergent Theory (The Syndet Bar)

The Formulation Challenge: Aggression vs. Concentration

The Technical Strategy: Surfactant “Taming”

Experimental Formula: Case Study #SYNDET-BAR-01

Processing & Thermal Observations

Researcher Summary & Sensory Evaluation

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Lab Note: My “Pearl Sensation” Luxury Face Wash

The “Pearl” Strategy:

The Formula for my Experiment:

Notes from my Beaker:

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Lab Note: My “No Dandruff” Scalp-Calming Shampoo

The “Clear Scalp” Strategy:

The Formula for my Experiment:

Notes from my Beaker:

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My “No-SLES” Gentle Shampoo Experiment

The “Gentle” Strategy:

The Formula for my Experiment:

Notes from my Beaker:

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Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 4 — Useful Actives)

1. The “Label Stars”: Vitamins & Hydrators

2. Scalp Specialists: Dandruff & Oil

3. The “Energy” Boosters: Hair Growth Extracts

4. My Favorite: Betaine (Trimethylglycine)

Final Summary Table: Actives at a Glance

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