Can you recognize a good Shampoo? pt.3

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So here we are, with the third part of he “Can you recognize a good Shampoo” posts! (you can check pt.1 and pt.2).

Theory: Beyond the Foam — Understanding “Contour” Ingredients

Hello Hello! 😀 By now, we know how surfactants clean the hair, but a shampoo is more than just bubbles. Today, we are looking at the ingredients that “surround” the water and surfactants—the ones that protect your hair, adjust the feel, and keep the product safe.

As always, I don’t believe in “black and white” lists of dangerous ingredients. My goal is to give you the tools to choose what works for your hair and your values!

1. The Protectors: Hydrolyzed Proteins

In your INCI, look for Hydrolyzed Wheat/Silk/Milk/Oat Protein.

While proteins like Keratin are great for deep repair, in a shampoo (which is rinsed off quickly), their main job is protection. These amino acids essentially “reach” the hair before the surfactants do, creating a mechanical shield. To be effective, they should appear relatively high in the INCI list.

2. The Detanglers: Conditioning Agents

Even though it’s not a conditioner, a shampoo often needs a little “slip” to keep hair from tangling during the wash.

• Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: An antistatic agent that helps detangle. It’s usually used at very low levels ($0.2\%$).

• Polyquaternium Family: (e.g., Polyquaternium-7 or 10). These create a light film that makes hair shiny and smooth. They are very effective for results, and generally, a shampoo shouldn’t contain more than $1.5\%$.

• Inulin: A natural conditioner. At up to $2\%$, it helps keep hair straight. Tip: If you have very thin hair, too much inulin can make it look a bit heavy!

3. The Shine Makers: Silicones

Common names: Amodimethicone, Dimethicone, Quaternium-80.

Silicones make hair incredibly soft and smooth, but they can “build up” over time.

My View: Silicones are fine in small amounts! Check the position in the INCI—if they are near the top, they might eventually make your hair feel heavy and lifeless. If they are near the bottom, they are likely just providing a bit of surface shine.

4. Stability & Foam: Emulsifiers

These keep the shampoo from separating and help create a rich lather.

• Alkanolamides (Cocamide DEA/MEA): These stabilize foam and thicken the product. Some avoid them because they are aggressive surfactants or because of potential chemical reactions with preservatives.

• PEGs (PEG-150, etc.): These are powerful thickeners and emulsifiers, often found in oil-based shampoos. They aren’t the most eco-friendly, but they clean very well without much foam.

5. The “Buffer” Oils

You might see Coconut Oil, Argan Oil, or Olive Oil. Oils “occupy” some of the surfactant’s washing power, making the overall shampoo much milder and more emollient. A shampoo with oils high in the INCI is a good sign if you have a dry or sensitive scalp.

6. Keeping it Safe: The Preserving System

Since shampoo is mostly water, it must be preserved.

• Cosgard (Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid): An “eco-almost-friendly” choice. It’s effective, though not always broad-spectrum.

• Parabens: Rarely found now due to public pressure. While they are actually quite effective at low doses in wash-off products, many companies have switched to other options.

• Potassium Sorbate & Sodium Benzoate: Food-grade and eco-friendly. Caution: Some people find these can cause an itchy scalp if used in high concentrations. If you’re itchy, try a different system!

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Summary Table: Quick INCI Guide

Ingredient	Purpose	Personality
Proteins	Mechanical protection	The “Shield”
Polyquats	Shine and film-forming	The “Polisher”
Inulin	Natural straightening	The “Smoother”
Citric Acid	Lowers pH to ~4.5	The “Balancer”
Oils	Reduces aggression	The “Buffer”

The next post will be the final part of this series, where we talk about the “Good” ingredients—the ones that really give you those amazing results!

Is there an ingredient on your bottle that isn’t on this list? Ask me below! 😀