Autumn Dream – Face Cream

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Lab Note: My “Autumn Dream” Face Cream

Hello Hello! 😀 I finally have the recipe and pictures for the autumn cream I’m using right now. I call it my “Poetry” cream because I was feeling a bit artistic when I made it—but also because my sensitive skin needs something truly soothing as soon as the first cold weather hits.

This cream has a higher percentage of fats than my summer formulas, plus a “bouquet” of active ingredients specifically chosen to protect capillaries and calm redness. yeheee!

The Formula: 

Phase A (The Gel):

• Water: to 100

• Glycerin: 3.0

• Xanthan Gum: 0.2 (I usually prefer a mix with Carbomer, but mine expired! Xanthan alone still works, though the finish is slightly different.)

Phase B (The Emulsion):

• Murumuru Butter: 0.5 (Dry skin: 2.5)

• Safflower Oil: 0.5 (Dry skin: 2.5)

• Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 3.0 (Emulsifier)

• Cetyl Palmitate: 1.0 (For a soft cream feel)

• Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 0.5

• Propylheptyl Caprylate: 1.5 (For a super light skin feel)

Phase C (The Soothing Actives):

• Oily Part: Bisabolol (0.5), Black Currant Oil (1.0), Dry Flo (0.5)

• Water Part: Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins (2.0), Allantoin (0.4), Water (5.0)

• Botanical Extracts: Vitis Vinifera (0.2), Raspberry (0.1), Licorice/Glycyrrhizic Acid (0.2)

• Hydration: Hyaluronic Acid Gel (5.0)

• Preservative: Cosgard (1.0)

Notes from my Beaker:

1. Extract Colors: Just a warning—plant extracts like Licorice and Vitis Vinifera are NOT white! They will change the color of your cream to a more “earthy” tone, but the soothing benefits are worth it!

2. The Allantoin Trick: As always, I mix the Allantoin into the Silk Proteins first. It disperses so much better this way—no crystals!

3. The Process: I heated Phase A and B to 70°C. I poured B into A slowly while stirring by hand, then hit it with the immersion mixer. It turns bright white immediately!

4. The Cooling Phase: This part is very important. I kept stirring with a spatula until it reached room temperature. While it’s hot, it looks very liquid—don’t panic! The Cetyl Palmitate only thickens as it cools (and continues for a few days).

5. The Final Touch: Once cool, I added the two Phase C parts, checked the pH (it hit 5.5 perfectly), and gave it one last quick pulse with the mixer to make it perfectly smooth.

Final Verdict: This is a lifesaver for winter. The Black Currant oil and Licorice extract really help my capillaries survive the cold stress. It might not stay pure white because of the extracts, but it feels like a dream on the skin. ENJOY! 😀 😀 😀