Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe

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LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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Lab Note: The “Oil-Control” Spring Fluid

Hello Hello! 😀 With the spring days finally arriving, I wanted to formulate something light. This cream is specifically designed for oily skin that needs hydration without the weight. In fact, the oil percentage is so low it’s almost an “oil-free” cream!

The Oil-Control Duo:

  • Azeloglicine (6%): Pure Azelaic Acid is a nightmare to work with at home because it won’t dissolve in water or oil. Bingo! Azeloglicine is the answer. It’s a hydrophilic derivative that kills acne-causing bacteria and normalizes sebum.

  • Tiolisine Complex (2.5%): A sulfurated amino acid derivative that is a powerhouse for sebum-normalizing.

The Formula: Spring Oil-Control Fluid

Phase A (The Gel Base):

  • Water: to 100

  • Glycerin: 2.5

  • Xanthan Gum (Non-transparent): 0.11

  • Carbopol Ultrez 21: 0.3

Phase B (The Light Oily Phase):

  • Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate: 2.0 (Low % for a low-oil formula)

  • Cetyl Alcohol: 0.8 (Kept low to avoid a “waxy” feel)

  • Cetiol Sensoft: 1.5 (A very light synthetic oil for a smooth touch)

  • Evening Primrose Oil: 1.0

  • Hemp Oil: 0.5

  • Tocopherol (Vitamin E): 1.0

Phase C1 (The “Dry” Finish):

  • Bisabolol: 0.5 (Soothing)

  • Dry Flo: 0.7 (Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate—for a matte finish!)

Phase C2 (The Actives):

  • Azeloglicine: 6.0

  • Tiolisine Complex: 2.5

  • Preservative (Cosgard): 1.0

  • Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. Consistency Matters: I intentionally made this a fluid lotion rather than a thick cream. For oily skin, thick textures can “feel” too rich or heavy. I prefer a light, milky fluid that sinks in immediately!

  2. The Wax Factor: If you want it thicker, you could raise the Cetyl Alcohol to 1.5%, but I don’t recommend it for oily skin—it can start to feel like a wax layer on your face.

  3. Active Power: Because Azeloglicine is water-soluble, it’s so much easier to incorporate into Phase C than trying to fight with pure Azelaic acid powder. It keeps the cream smooth and professional.

Final Verdict: This is my go-to when the weather gets warmer. It keeps the shine away while treating any little breakouts with the Tiolisine and Azeloglicine. It’s light, smooth, and fresh!

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😀 😀 😀

14 thoughts on “Sebum Normalizer cream Recipe”

  1. Hi I need azeloyl glycin and I rodent found sent where can you help my to find those item and the source must shipping to Saudi Arabia please

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  2. I have tried 3 times now and i cant seem to get a thick sleek emulsion like yours using methil glucose sesquestearate. I end up with a runny cream.I even increased my butter to 7% and 5percent soft oils , 3%MGS and 2% cetyl alchohol. Can u trouble shoot here?

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  3. I also noticed that the MGS dosent really melt well in oil(u still see it grainy below the beaker) is that normal? I mean before adding the oil phase to the water phase. Its 3 days now, does it mean that even after a week, it will keep thickening? Cos right now, it’s runny after 3 days.

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    1. The MGS DOES melt easily in oil, if you mixed the phases without melting the MGS and the cetyl alcohol properly, then you might face separation because the emulsion didn’t form properly.
      You have to wait until the right temperature has been reached and until all the phase B looks homogenized.

      MGS is an emulsifier and not a thickener, so it is not its job to thicken. The thickener in this case is the cetyl alcohol and the gelling agent of the water phase.
      Cetyl alcohol takes time, even more than 3 days is ok.
      However, you might face other issues since your emulsifier didn’t melt properly.

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  4. I will try again, because at 75degree celcius, the MGS didnt melt into the oil? I held it for 20mins before adding to the water phase. Roughly how long does it take to melt into the oil when u use?

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      1. Thank you! İt seems that glamourcosmetics doesn’t have it anymore? But I found it in the other website

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