LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]
Finally the final step of making creams!
In my formulation experiments, Phase A typically contains the heat-stable, water-soluble ingredients, while Phase B is comprised of fats, emulsifiers, and oil-soluble components that can withstand heat. However, the most delicate part of the process is Phase C.
What is Phase C? Phase C is often referred to as the “Cool Down” phase. In my lab notes, this phase typically includes:
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Preservatives: Usually ranging between 0.5% and 1%, depending on the manufacturer’s technical data sheet.
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Fragrance/Essential Oils: In my experiments, I find 2 drops per 100g is often sufficient for facial applications.
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Active Ingredients: These are the components added for their specific properties, which can be heat-sensitive and are typically added at temperatures below 40°C. In my research, I aim to keep the total active load under 10% to maintain stability.
The Role of Active Ingredients Active ingredients are those which add specific value to a formula. Every active ingredient has a recommended usage rate provided by the supplier.
For example, Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) is theoretically used at around 0.1%. While this sounds low, my observations show that even at 0.1%, Q10 imparts a distinct yellowish tint to the cream. If a commercial Q10 cream is pure white, it may suggest a much lower concentration was used in its production.
Note on Sourcing: It is vital for a formulator to review the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) of every ingredient. For instance, “Liquid Q10” may be a pre-diluted blend, meaning the actual concentration of pure Q10 is much lower than expected.
Categories of Active Ingredients in Cosmetic Theory
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Acids and Exfoliants: In formulation theory, these ingredients (like Citric or Lactic acid) are used to lower the pH or provide chemical exfoliation.
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Safety Note: Formulations containing chemical exfoliants (like Glycolic or Salicylic acid) are traditionally intended for nighttime use. In my experiments, these are kept far from the eyes and lips. Research indicates that chemical exfoliants can increase photosensitivity; therefore, their use is typically avoided during periods of high sun exposure to prevent skin damage or staining.
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Antioxidants: Ingredients like Vitamin E (Tocopherol) or Resveratrol work best in synergy. Theory suggests that combining multiple antioxidants can provide a more robust defense against oxidation than using a single one alone.
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Oily Skin Targets: Niacinamide is a popular choice (theoretically used between 1-4%). It is important to note that Niacinamide requires a stable pH of 5-5.5 to prevent it from converting into Nicotinic acid, which can cause skin flushing.
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Hydrating & Humectants: Beyond the standard hydration of an emulsion, ingredients like Allantoin (soluble at 0.4%) or Hyaluronic Acid are used for an extra moisture boost. In my lab notes, I find Allantoin requires careful handling to avoid precipitation.
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Soothing Ingredients: My preferred choices for experimental batches are Bisabolol (derived from Chamomile) and Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5).
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Addressing Puffiness: In my Eye Cream experiments, I favor Caffeine (up to 2%) and Escin, which are traditionally studied for their vasoprotective and draining properties.
In future posts, I will share more specific examples of how I apply this theory in my lab experiments.
IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS 
Hi! I’ve been reading your website for some time now and finally got the courage to go ahead and give you a shout out from Atascocita Texas! Just wanted to mention keep up the great work!
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your blog is unreal a lot of useful information in one page. Keep it up I am really enjoying thanks for sharing your experience in this fabulous DIY
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Thank you Sara 🙂
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If possible please put a DIY for hyper pigmentation problem in face or body ^^ I will do it for sure I love making DIY ^________^
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I will think about that 🙂
But since I have the opposite “problem” I don’t know how I could see if the formulation works 😀 but I will try to find a solution to this 🙂 maybe ask friends to test
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Hi, I couldn’t find your article about “extract”. Can you give me the link? Thank you!
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Wow,I can’t help but stop by,thank you so much ma’am I believe this is my last bus stop on cosmetic making ,
Please madam I want to know how to use HYDROQUINONE 2% as a lightening agent in my product for personal use,please I find it difficult to calculate 2% so please help me on my calculation and convenient time to add it into my made cream or lotion ,Thanks a lot
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Hello.
Hydroquinone is a very difficult ingredient to work with. It needs air tight manufacturing and protection from UVs.
It is DANGEROUS to formulate with it in a home environment so I don’t suggest you to do it.
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I found your blog again after 4 years. You helped me out with some lotion making concerns then and it came out fabulously. I also made a HA serum which was a hit with my family and I ended up making a dozen of it for all my aunties :D. Unfortunately I fell out and went back to commercial lotions. Im picking up on this again and have been reading about all the chemistry, ficks law etc most which is beyond me but all very fascinating. Its my dream to make the ultimate face cream with everything but the kitchen sink in it. 🙂 Good to come across your blog again. And I see you are just as patient and generous as I remember.
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Hey I am so glad!
Actually I have been buying some lotions too lately (mostly body lotions because I fall in love with some fragrances that I cannot find!!!).
Thank you for your kind words 🙂
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Oh yes fragrance is a big selling point for me too. I have tried to purchase the chocolatey smell in Vaseline cocoa butter lotion so that I can add it into eucerin creams but the two chocolate oils I tried didn’t smell anything close to it.
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Hi, I recently discovered your blog and I’m learning so much here! Please do a follow up post as promised, pleaseeee!!
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I was wondering,what is the difference between all the different kind of extracts,like liposoluble ,Hydroglycolic,Freeze dried,CO2,,1:2 ratio…Which one is better to use? Most common one I could find was “Glycerin, water, %20 extract”..I looked through the websites you have linked but couldn’t find the ones in powder form
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It depends on the extractor: what is it going to extract / how powerful it is.
Glycerin is not the best extractor. Glycolic is quite a good solvent (but the same behaviour it has on good components, it has on the skin as well so I wouldn’t exceed). CO2 is maybe the best way so far, but they tend to be expensive.
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Oh I see! I understand what EG,EF,ES means but what does TM means? I was thinking of going for “Centella ES tit. asiaticoside 20%” for my calming centella serum,as I understand this is a dry extract soluble in water?
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Yes this sounds good because it is “titled” so that means they calculated the concentration of the ingredient which makes it “good” 🙂
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just making sure i understand… vit E and hydrolyzed proteins and Propanediol (a panthenol substitute) are all added to phase C, the cool down phase right? with the preservative ?
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Yes
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Very nice
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