Formulating a lotion: Phase A – THEORY pt.3

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My Lab Diary: Mastering Phase A (The Foundation)

Hello Hello! 😀 Today I’m looking over my notes on Phase A—the Aqueous Phase. I used to think water was the “easy” part of the cream, but I’ve learned that it’s actually the foundation of everything!

In my experiments, I almost always heat Phase A in a double boiler until it hits 70°C. Why? Because my favorite emulsifiers are “heat-required,” and if Phase A isn’t just as hot as Phase B, the whole thing can “shock” and separate. It’s all about keeping the phases in sync!

1. The Water: Pure or “Poetic”?

I usually keep my water at 70% or more.

  • My Thought: I love the idea of floral hydrosols (like Rose or Orange Blossom), but I’ve noticed they can be quite sensitive to the heat of the double boiler. Lately, I’ve decided to invest my “beaker budget” in high-performance actives instead, using water as my clean, reliable canvas.

2. Glycerin: The Hydration Magnet

Glycerin is a staple in my lab. It’s a humectant, which means it literally “grabs” water molecules and holds them to the skin.

  • Lab Observation: You have to be careful! If I use too much, the cream feels “tacky” or looks too shiny on the face. Sips water. * My Personal “Sweet Spots”:

    • 1.5%: For those days I’m formulating for oily skin.

    • 2.0% – 3.5%: My “Goldilocks” range for normal skin.

    • 4.0% – 5.0%: Only for heavy-duty body lotions!

3. The Gelling Agents (My Stabilizers)

I don’t just use gums for “thickness”—I use them to keep the emulsion from falling apart! Here is what I’ve learned about my favorite polymers:

  • Xanthan Gum: My old reliable! It’s tough and doesn’t care about salts (electrolytes).

    • Pro Tip: To avoid those annoying “fish-eye” lumps, I always mix the gum into the glycerin first before adding the water. Works like a charm! 😀

  • Carbopol® Ultrez 21: I LOVE this one. It makes the most elegant, crystal-clear gels.

    • The “Patience” Method: I just sprinkle it on the water and let it hydrate itself. No stirring!

    • The Bloom: It stays liquid until I add a few drops of Sodium Hydroxide to raise the pH. Then—POOF!—it thickens instantly. I love pairing it with a little Xanthan (0.4% Carbomer / 0.2% Xanthan) for the perfect texture.

  • Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC): This is my “specialty” gelling agent for when I have lots of salts in a formula.

    • Lab Note: Unlike the others, HEC is a bit of a diva—it needs heat (70°C) to fully wake up and thicken.

Every time I look at these powders, I’m reminded that even the “water phase” is a beautiful science experiment. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

(Sources)

23 thoughts on “Formulating a lotion: Phase A – THEORY pt.3”

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  7. Exceptional post however I was wanting to know if
    you could write a litte more on this topic?
    I’d be very grateful if you could elaborate a little bit more. Bless you!

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  14. Hi– quick question. For the Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, do you heat the glycerin with the water and then add it, or do you heat the water, add the hydroxyethyl cellulose, then add the glycerin after?

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  15. If I use Hydroxyethyl cellulose, that mean I have to heat twice? First for hydroxyethyl cellulose in phase A, second for mix Phase A to phase B together? Thank you in advance.

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  18. I am loving this blog so much and I don’t know if you even check the comments anymore.

    I had an ah-hah moment in an earlier post where I noticed a misspelling that stood out to me because it is very obvious how intelligent you are. At first, I almost dismissed it as a typo or autocorrect but then, as I sounded out the misspelled word (which was becher when you meant to write “beaker”) it occurred to me that English was probably not your native language as ch in English can sometimes sound like a C or K. You speak so eloquently otherwise and it’s so impressive that you are able to speak on this subject so clearly, all in your non-native language!

    Then, I had my assumption confirmed on your very next post installation in this series. Above, you mention the struggle of trying to find the word for the “white trails”. I am so excited to have found a way that I can help you, because your blog posts are helping me so much! The term for the white trails you describe is called “soaping”—Much like how a good bar of soap will lather on the skin, in lotions and creams, this effect is less desirable.

    Anyway, thank you for your blog and sharing your knowledge with us. You’re amazing!

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