The skin of the eye area is very delicate and thin.
If you are planning to make a cosmetic for this area, you have two options: or you make a gel or you make a light cream (I’d say maximum 8% fats).
The “Prince Ingredient” of this cream is CAFFEINE, which will contrast eye-puffiness.
Read the post about caffeine to know how to use it in cosmetics.
I write the full RECIPE now (if you just arrived on my blog, you can learn how to make creams HERE):
- water to 100 (you find the amount of water you need by doing: 100 – (the sum up of all the grams of the other ingredients))
- fleur-de-lis hydrolat – 10 (if you don’t have it, you can just delete it and use demineralized water)
- glycerin – 3
- xanthan gum – 0.1
- carbopol utrez 21 – 0.3
- caffeine – 2
- methyl glucose sesquistearate – 3 (this is the emulsifier)
- cetyl alcohol – 1 (thickener)
- cetyl palmitate – 0.5 (second thickener)
- avocado butter – 1
- shea butter – 2
- tocopherol (Vitamin E) – 1
- argan oil – 1
- evening primrose oil – 1
- jojoba oil – 1
(this grease-fall is not particularly articulated: I wanted a light cream but I wanted a slight thicker feeling to it: therefore I used more butters notice that all the densities of fats are present in the cream).
I have actually divided the Phase C into more phases, meaning that I prepared the ingredients in different bechers.
Phase C – Oil soluble ingredients:
- rose hip oil – 1 (this oil could be damaged by the heating of Phase B, this is why I chose to add it in Phase C)
- bisabolol – 0.5 (soothing ingredient and antibacterial)
- mixed complex of ceramides - 2 (this is an active ingredient which contains different ceramides)
Phase C – Water soluble ingredients:
- allantoin – 0.5
- hydrolized oat protein - 2 (usually I try to melt the allantoin in the hydrolized proteins. Allantoin can give problems in the final product if you don’t melt it very well, so always remember to do this step properly )
- Dry Extract of blueberry (this is a powder, it also gave some color to the cream as you can see) 0.5
- hyaluronic acid solution 1% – 3
- preservative – 0.6%
- 2 or 3 drops of fragrance oil (or essential oil)
Step by Step:
Prepare Phase A as explained HERE separating it in two parts to let xanthan and carbopol open up evenly. Set aside.
Prepare Phase B.
Heat both Phase A (now put together) and Phase B in a double boiler until they both reach 70°C.
Add slowly Phase B into Phase A and mix with immersion mixer.
When it looks evenly white you can stop mixing with mixer and you can use a spatula instead.
Mix with a spatula until cooled down (might take up to 30 minutes).
Prepare Phase C separately as explained above. Add the oily Phase C and later the water Phase C to the cream.
Mix well with spatula.
Now add the preservative and mix with the immersion mixer one last time: it will improve the texture.
Add the 2 drops of fragrance.
Check the pH of the cream. For eye area it should be around 6.5 pH.