Tag: surfactant

How to formulate a detergent – THEORY pt. 1

How to formulate a detergent

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Lab Notes: Surfactant Theory & The Chemistry of Cleansing

Hello Hello! 😀

I’m recording my research into surfactants (Surface Active Agents). These are the amphiphilic molecules that make my cleansers work. Their “water-loving” head and “oil-loving” tail are what allow them to lift debris from the skin.

1. The Four Groups (My Personality Map)

Surfactants can be categorized by their electrical charge. It’s the easiest way to predict how they’ll interact with skin and hair:

  • Anionic (-): My “powerhouses” for foam and cleaning (SLES, Sarcosinate).

  • Cationic (+): I use these for conditioning because they “stick” to the negatively charged hair shaft.

  • Non-Ionic (0): Usually mild stabilizers (Glucosides).

  • Amphoteric (+/-): My “buffers.” I’ve found these are essential for reducing the irritancy of the Anionics (Betaine).

2. The ASM Calculation (Active Matter)

I’ve documented a common trap: raw surfactants are rarely 100% pure. They are usually solutions.

  • The ASM Coefficient: Always check my supplier’s sheet. For instance, if my SLES is 27% ASM, I have to calculate my formula based on that “pure” percentage, not the total weight of the liquid.

My Target ASM Hierarchy:

Based on my trials, I’ve set these “strength targets” for my formulas:

  • Intimate Wash: ~5% ASM

  • Face Wash: <10% ASM

  • Shampoo: 10% – 15% ASM

  • Shower Gel: 18% – 20% ASM

  • Bubble Bath: 20% – 25% ASM

3. The Synergy Discovery

One of the most important things I’ve recorded is that synergy reduces irritancy.
Using 12% ASM of a single surfactant is much harsher than a 12% blend of three different types. I now always use a “Trio” (Primary + Buffer + Aesthetic Booster) to keep the skin barrier happy.

Self note: It’s important that I keep checking the Technical Data Sheets. Sometimes the same ingredient can vary between 27% and 30% ASM depending on the batch!

It’s all about layering the charges correctly to get a product that cleans without being aggressive.