Tag: SLES

No SLES Shampoo DIY

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For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
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No Sles Shampoo

My “No-SLES” Gentle Shampoo Experiment

Hello Hello! :D 

I wanted something that felt sophisticated and gentle—a recipe that treats the scalp like skin rather than just “hair ground.” yeheee! :D
While I do not hate SLES at all and I find that they can be useful in many ways, at the same time I am trying something different because sometimes my scalp gets itchy by the aggressivness that a commercial SLES shampoo can carry. SLES shampoos are sometimes formulated poorly (maybe for keeping the costs low) and can therefore be too aggressive. 

Here I have decided to experiment with a NON-SLES shampoo, simply to see what’s out there and what can be done differently.

The “Gentle” Strategy:

Instead of the usual SLES, I decided to play with a combination of Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and Glucosides. Sarcosinate is such a dream—it’s derived from an amino acid and it gives a beautiful, creamy foam without being a “bully” to the hair cuticle.

The Formula for my Experiment:

Phase A:

  • Water to 100

  • Glycerin 3

  • Polyquaternium-10 – 0.3 (I included this because it helps with the “combability”—no one likes bird-nest hair! :P)

Phase B (The Cleansing Blend):

  • Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate – 12

  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine – 8

  • Coco-Glucoside – 4

  • Lauryl Glucoside – 2 (This one is thick, so I had to be patient while mixing!)

Phase C:

  • Hydrolyzed Silk Proteins – 1 (For that “silk” touch I love!)

  • Panthenol – 0.5

  • Preservative (According to my lab’s setup)

  • Fragrance (I used a fresh, “Rain” scent—it feels so pure!)

  • Lactic Acid (To reach the “Golden pH” of 5.5)

Notes from my Beaker:

  1. The Foam Surprise: I was actually worried that a No-SLES shampoo wouldn’t foam enough, but I was wrong! The Sarcosinate creates these tiny, dense bubbles that feel much more luxurious than the big, “air-filled” bubbles of cheap shampoos.

  2. The pH is King: I was very careful to bring the pH down to 5.5. In my experience, this is the magic number for keeping the hair shiny and the scalp calm.

  3. The Mixing Process: I mixed the surfactants together first before adding them to the water. I found that if I poured the water onto the surfactants, I ended up with way too many bubbles in the beaker. Slow and steady wins the race! :D

  4. Scalp Feedback:

    The most amazing thing happened when I checked the pH. I brought it down to 5.5 with Lactic Acid, and suddenly the texture became so beautiful and dense! I realized that you don’t need SLES to get a rich foam. The foam from the Sarcosinate is tiny and creamy—it feels like washing your hair with a cloud instead of a detergent.

    I didn’t get any of that “squeaky” feeling that usually means the hair is dying for help. Instead, my scalp felt calm for the first time in weeks. It’s a huge win for me! However, to be fair, I don’t love the feeling in my hair, the wetting ability is not so good and so the search for the perfect shampoo is still open for me! Hope you enjoyed my experiments 😀

No Sles Shampoo 1

No Sles Shampoo 2

No Sles Shampoo 3

No Sles Shampoo 4

No Sles Shampoo 5

No Sles Shampoo 6

On Surfactants and Formulation (face wash, shampoo and shower gels)

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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The ASM Protocol — Quantitative Detergent Design

In surfactant chemistry, we do not formulate based on the “volume of the bottle” but on the Active Surfactant Matter (ASM). Since raw surfactants are sold as aqueous solutions (e.g., 30% active matter and 70% water), we must calculate the true concentration of the “cleaning” part of the molecule to ensure safety and efficacy.

1. The ASM Target Reference

Before calculating, I define the target ASM based on the physiological needs of the area being cleansed. High ASM provides more “bubbles” and stripping power, while low ASM preserves the lipid barrier.

Product Type Target ASM Range Formulation Goal
Face / Intimate Wash < 10% Ultra-delicate; avoids stripping the acid mantle.
Shampoo 10% – 15% High wetting ability; removes sebum/styling products.
Shower Gel 15% – 20% Standard body cleansing; good foam volume.
Bubble Bath 20% – 25%+ Maximum foam stability; not intended for direct skin contact.

2. The Mathematical Approach: Solving for ASM

I utilize two primary methods in the lab to reach my target (e.g., a 18% ASM Shower Gel).

Method A: Quota Division (Precise)

I decide exactly what “share” each surfactant contributes to the total 18% and solve for the grams needed.

  • Sarcosinate (29% ASM): Quota 10% $\div 0.29 = 34.48g$

  • Betaine (36% ASM): Quota 5% $\div 0.36 = 13.88g$

  • Lauryl Glucoside (52% ASM): Quota 3% $\div 0.52 = 5.76g$

  • Total ASM = 18%

Method B: Gram Estimation (Iterative)

I estimate the grams first and check the result against the target.

  • $40g \text{ Sarcosinate} \times 0.29 = 11.6$

  • $15g \text{ Betaine} \times 0.36 = 5.4$

  • $5g \text{ Lauryl Glucoside} \times 0.52 = 2.6$

  • Total ASM = 19.6% (Adjust grams downward to reach 18%).

3. Raw Material Profiles & Behavioral Notes

  • Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Anionic – 29%): Eco-friendly and creamy.

    • Processing Note: Viscosity is highly dependent on a pH of 5.0. It is sensitive to oils and fragrances, often requiring Xanthan Gum for stabilization.

  • Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Amphoteric – 30-38%): The “Buffer.”

    • Behavior: When paired with Anionics (like SLES), it creates a salt-thickening curve. It significantly reduces the irritation potential of harsher surfactants.

  • Lauryl Glucoside (Non-Ionic – 52%): A thick, cloudy paste.

    • Behavior: Excellent for thickening and skin-mildness, but requires gentle heating ($40^\circ\text{C}$–$50^\circ\text{C}$) to become workable.

  • Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (Amphoteric – 38%): The “Baby” surfactant.

    • Behavior: Does not trigger the ocular sting reflex; ideal for “no-tears” formulations.

Researcher Summary

Calculating ASM is the only way to ensure reproducibility in the lab. By mastering this math, I can hopefully swap one surfactant for another (e.g., replacing SLES with a more eco-friendly Sarcosinate) while maintaining the exact same “strength” of the detergent.