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Theory: How to Read a Shampoo INCI (Ingredient List)
Hello Hello! 😀 Today’s session is about a superpower every formulator should have: the ability to recognize a good shampoo just by looking at the label!
The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the list of everything inside a product. They are listed in order of percentage, except for ingredients below 1%, which can be listed in any order at the end. While we can’t know the exact percentages, our knowledge of formulation helps us see if a product is well-balanced or just “poetry.”
The Three Rules of the Lab:
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Bio-Realism: I am not a “biodegradable-nazi.” I prefer eco-friendly ingredients, but I look for overall balance rather than perfection.
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Listen to Your Hair: If a shampoo gives you an itchy scalp or greasy hair, stop using it—even if the INCI looks “perfect” on paper!
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The 1% Line: Often, expensive plant extracts are listed above preservatives just for “label appeal,” even if they are only present at 0.01%. Don’t be fooled!
Analyzing the Surfactants
Surfactants are the “magic” that creates foam. In most commercial shampoos, the primary family is Anionic (negative charge), like SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate). SLES is effective and conditioning, but it can be aggressive if used alone.
The Golden Ratio: SLES + CAPB
The most common combination is SLES + Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB). To make a shampoo mild, the CAPB should ideally be at least 1/3 of the amount of SLES.
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A Good Sign:
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine... -
A Red Flag:
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride... Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Note: If Sodium Chloride (salt) appears before the Betaine, it usually means the Betaine is too low (under 1-2%) to effectively buffer the SLES.
INCI Case Studies
Example 1: The “Poetry” Formula
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Citric Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine... [long list of extracts]
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Analysis: Citric acid is usually used at max 1.5% to adjust pH. If it is in the 3rd position, everything following it (including the Betaine and all those fancy extracts) is likely at a very low concentration. This is mostly just SLES and water—very aggressive!
Example 2: The “Oily” Formula
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside...
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Analysis: This skips the Betaine but uses high levels of oils to buffer the SLES. While this feels milder, the oils might weigh down fine hair or cause issues for those with greasy scalps.
Example 3: The “Silicon Build-up” Formula
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Dimethicone...
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Analysis: Dimethicone (a silicone) is high up on the list. It will make hair look amazing the first few times, but it eventually builds up, leaving hair heavy and dull. Also, without CAPB, the SLES might still feel quite harsh.
Example 4: The Balanced Formula
Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Decyl Polyglucose...
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Analysis: This is what we want to see! CAPB is in the 3rd position, followed by two more mild surfactants. It’s a complex, well-thought-out cleaning system.
Summary Table: Ingredients to Watch
| Ingredient Type | What to look for | Function |
| Primary Surfactant | SLES, Sodium Coco Sulfate | Cleaning and Lather |
| Secondary Surfactant | Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glucosides | Mildness and Foam stability |
| Conditioners | Polyquaternium-7, Silicones, Guar | Manageability and Shine |
| Proteins | Hydrolyzed Wheat/Silk Protein | Film-forming protection |
| Thickeners | Sodium Chloride (Salt) | Adjusting viscosity |
This is just the beginning of our INCI journey! In the next session, we will look at shampoos that use different surfactant bases beyond SLES.
Do you have a shampoo at home with a confusing INCI? Post it below and let’s analyze it! 😀
IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS 