Tag: formulation

Can you recognize a good shampoo? pt.2

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Canyourecognizeagoodshampoo.jpg

Theory: Recognizing a Good Shampoo (Part 2 — Glucosides)

Hello Hello! 😀 Following our session on SLES and Betaine, it is time to look at another very common surfactant combination: The Glucosides.

If you see these ingredients in an INCI, you are likely looking at a “Bio” or “Eco-friendly” shampoo. Glucosides are Non-Ionic surfactants, meaning they carry no electrical charge. They are prized in green chemistry because they are usually easily biodegradable and derived from natural sources.

Common Glucosides in the INCI:

  • Lauryl Glucoside

  • Decyl Glucoside

  • Coco Glucoside

  • Caprylyl/Capric Glucoside (A particularly good solubilizer for oils)

The “Gentle” Myth

It is important to remember: a “gentle” surfactant doesn’t automatically mean a gentle shampoo! A poorly formulated glucoside shampoo can still be aggressive, just as a well-formulated SLES shampoo can be very mild.

However, because they are non-ionic, they are generally less irritating to the scalp and are the “gold standard” for baby products and sensitive skin. The trade-off? They are less conditioning than the SLES+Betaine combo. A good formulator will compensate for this by adding extra conditioning agents or proteins.

INCI Case Studies: The Glucoside Base

Example 1: The Complex Herbal Blend

Water, Decyl Glucoside, Cocoglucoside, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, [Extracts], Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate...

  • Analysis: This is a very well-thought-out formula. Using two different glucosides followed by Betaine and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate creates a “surfactant cocktail.” The more surfactants you blend, the milder the result usually is. It looks like a very gentle, high-quality formulation!

Example 2: The “Minimalist” Eco-Shampoo

Water, Disodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, [Extracts]...

  • Analysis: Very simple and very green. All these surfactants are easily biodegradable and mild. However, notice the lack of conditioning agents. While “clean,” this shampoo might lack the wetting ability needed for thick hair and could leave it feeling a bit tangled.

Example 3: The Lipid-Enriched Formula

Aqua, Coco Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate...

  • Analysis: Here, Glyceryl Oleate is added specifically to “re-fat” the hair and make the wash even milder. You also see many essential oils (Tea Tree, Rosemary) added for sebum regulation. While honey is listed (great for label appeal!), its actual effect in a wash-off product is likely minimal compared to the surfactants.

Summary: Why Choose Glucosides?

Feature Glucoside-Based Shampoos
Sustainability High (Easily biodegradable)
Charge Non-Ionic (No charge)
Skin Feel Very low irritation, good for delicate scalps
Formulation Often more expensive/difficult to thicken than SLES
Best For Babies, eco-conscious consumers, very sensitive scalps

Interestingly, I have yet to find a “terrible” INCI that uses a glucoside base—usually, if a company is spending the money on these surfactants, they are also putting effort into the rest of the balance!

Do you have a “Green” shampoo at home? Check the label and see if you can spot these glucosides! 😀