Tag: anti-cellulite

Formulating lotion: Phase C & ACTIVE INGREDIENTS- THEORY pt.6

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
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Phase C and the Theory of Active Ingredients

In my formulation journey, the “Cool Down” phase—Phase C—is where the personality of the product is truly defined. While Phase A and B provide the structure, Phase C requires the most precision because the ingredients are often sensitive to thermal degradation.

The “Cool Down” Protocol

In my lab, I typically transition to Phase C once the emulsion temperature drops below 40°C. My standard Phase C components include:

  • Preservatives: Usually integrated at 0.5% to 1%, following the specific activity range noted on the manufacturer’s Technical Data Sheet.

  • Aesthetics: Fragrance or Essential Oils are kept at roughly 2 drops per 100g for facial applications to minimize irritation potential.

  • Active Ingredients: To maintain emulsion stability, I aim to keep the total active load under 10% of the total formula.

Technical Observations on Active Categories

1. Antioxidants & The Synergy Effect

Theory suggests that combining multiple antioxidants, such as Vitamin E (Tocopherol) and Resveratrol, creates a more robust defense against oxidation than using a single ingredient. In my records, I prioritize these “antioxidant cocktails” to extend the theoretical life of the lipids in the formula.

2. Acids and Exfoliants (pH Management)

Ingredients like Citric or Lactic acid serve two purposes in my notes: adjusting the final pH or providing chemical exfoliation.

  • Safety Threshold: Research indicates that chemical exfoliants (Glycolic, Salicylic) can increase photosensitivity. My experimental batches containing these are strictly categorized for nighttime use and kept away from the delicate eye and lip areas.

3. Targeting Oily Skin (The Niacinamide Constraint)

Niacinamide is a staple in my blemish-prone skin research (used at 1–4%). However, I’ve documented a strict stability requirement: the pH must remain between 5.0 and 5.5. If the environment becomes too acidic or alkaline, Niacinamide can convert into Nicotinic Acid, which is known to cause skin flushing.

4. Humectants & Soothing Agents

For an “extra boost” of hydration, I look toward Hyaluronic Acid and Allantoin.

  • Solubility Note: Allantoin is notoriously difficult to work with (soluble only at 0.4%). In my lab, I’ve recorded that improper dissolution can lead to “grit” or precipitation in the final texture.

  • Soothing: My preferred soothing agents are Bisabolol and Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) at up to 2%.

5. Vasoprotective Theory (Eye Area)

In my eye-area experiments, I focus on Caffeine (up to 2%) and Escin. These are traditionally studied for their vasoprotective properties, targeting the appearance of puffiness through localized drainage.

Formulator’s Warning: Sourcing and Purity

A vital lesson in my research is that marketing names can be deceptive.

  • The Q10 Case Study: Pure Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) is used at a very low 0.1%, but even at this level, it turns a cream distinctly yellow. A pure white commercial Q10 cream suggests a much lower concentration.

  • SDS Review: I always review the Safety Data Sheet (SDS). For example, “Liquid Q10” is often a pre-diluted blend, meaning the actual concentration of active material is much lower than the bottle indicates.