Category: shampoo

How to formulate a detergent – THEORY pt.2

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

How to formulate a detergent

My Lab Notes: Surfactant Assembly & Phase Logic

Hello Hello! 😀

I’ve been recording my experiments with detergents, and I’ve realized it’s about so much more than just getting the skin clean. It’s about managing the “Micellar structure” so the product feels professional.

1. My “Trio-Strategy” for Softness

I’ve documented that a single-surfactant system is usually too harsh for my skin. I’ve started using a three-part team:

  • Primary: My “cleaning engine” (like SLES).

  • Secondary: A “buffer” like Cocamidopropyl Betaine to reduce irritation.

  • Aesthetics: A tiny bit of Glyceryl Oleate to make the lather feel like luxury.

2. My Thickening Observations

I’ve noticed that people associate thickness with quality, so I’ve been testing three reliable ways to build “body”:

  • The Salt-Curve: I’ve recorded that SLES becomes extremely dense when I add electrolytes (salt) because it forces the micelles to pack tighter.

  • The pH Trigger: In my experiments with Sarcosinate, the texture changes completely at pH 5.0. It goes from thin to thick almost instantly!

  • Polymeric Support: If the surfactants are being stubborn, I use Xanthan Gum (<1%) in Phase A to get the flow I want.

3. My Assembly Protocol (Avoiding the “Crash”)

I have to be very careful with the order of addition to avoid “crashing” the formula or making it cloudy.

  • Phase A (The Aqueous Foundation): I hydrate my gums and glycerin here.

  • Phase B (The Concentrate): This is where my main surfactants go. Sips water. I’ve learned to mix these very slowly with a spatula—no immersion mixers allowed, or I’ll end up with a beaker full of air bubbles!

  • Phase C (The Trigger): This is my favorite part. When I add the Betaine and the pH adjusters at the end, I often see the “thickening moment” happen right before my eyes.

Final Lab Thought

Formulating detergents is a game of patience. If I rush the mixing, I lose the clarity. A thin gel still cleans, but I’ve found that a thick, glossy gel is what makes the experience feel truly professional. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

How to formulate a detergent – THEORY pt. 1

How to formulate a detergent

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Lab Notes: Surfactant Theory & The Chemistry of Cleansing

Hello Hello! 😀

I’m recording my research into surfactants (Surface Active Agents). These are the amphiphilic molecules that make my cleansers work. Their “water-loving” head and “oil-loving” tail are what allow them to lift debris from the skin.

1. The Four Groups (My Personality Map)

Surfactants can be categorized by their electrical charge. It’s the easiest way to predict how they’ll interact with skin and hair:

  • Anionic (-): My “powerhouses” for foam and cleaning (SLES, Sarcosinate).

  • Cationic (+): I use these for conditioning because they “stick” to the negatively charged hair shaft.

  • Non-Ionic (0): Usually mild stabilizers (Glucosides).

  • Amphoteric (+/-): My “buffers.” I’ve found these are essential for reducing the irritancy of the Anionics (Betaine).

2. The ASM Calculation (Active Matter)

I’ve documented a common trap: raw surfactants are rarely 100% pure. They are usually solutions.

  • The ASM Coefficient: Always check my supplier’s sheet. For instance, if my SLES is 27% ASM, I have to calculate my formula based on that “pure” percentage, not the total weight of the liquid.

My Target ASM Hierarchy:

Based on my trials, I’ve set these “strength targets” for my formulas:

  • Intimate Wash: ~5% ASM

  • Face Wash: <10% ASM

  • Shampoo: 10% – 15% ASM

  • Shower Gel: 18% – 20% ASM

  • Bubble Bath: 20% – 25% ASM

3. The Synergy Discovery

One of the most important things I’ve recorded is that synergy reduces irritancy.
Using 12% ASM of a single surfactant is much harsher than a 12% blend of three different types. I now always use a “Trio” (Primary + Buffer + Aesthetic Booster) to keep the skin barrier happy.

Self note: It’s important that I keep checking the Technical Data Sheets. Sometimes the same ingredient can vary between 27% and 30% ASM depending on the batch!

It’s all about layering the charges correctly to get a product that cleans without being aggressive.