Category: Face

How to formulate a SERUM

Hyaluronic Acid Serum

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

This post is a great way to show how formulation shifts when you move from “heavy” emulsions to “active-heavy” serums. In 2026, the trend is all about “minimalist science,” so framing this as your Technical Brief on Aqueous Systems is perfect.

Here is the “Studio” revamp, using the Lab Notes persona.

Lab Notes: Observations on Aqueous Systems & Serum Theory

In my formulation research, serums represent a distinct category of product design. While lotions are designed for barrier protection and emollience, serums are engineered as high-delivery systems for specific active components. Below are my documented observations on the characteristics and structural theory of these fluid systems.

Defining Characteristics of a Serum

In my lab records, I categorize a “Serum” based on these specific technical parameters:

  • Lipid Load: Systems are typically very light, with a total fat content often documented between 1.5% and 4%.

  • Viscosity ($\eta$): Serums are designed to be fluid or semi-fluid rather than high-viscosity creams.

     

  • Active Density: They are formulated to hold a higher concentration of “hero” ingredients.

     

  • Cold Process Theory: Because the lipid load is so low, many of my serum experiments are conducted at room temperature (Cold Process), preserving the integrity of heat-sensitive vitamins.

Theory Perspective: If a cream is the “protector” of the skin, a serum is the “booster.” Expecting a serum to provide the same occlusion as a rich cream is a common misconception in formulation theory; they serve different physiological goals.

Structural Phases in Serum Design

Phase A: The Aqueous Base

Phase A is the backbone of the serum. In my experiments, I focus heavily on the choice of Rheology Modifiers (gelling agents) to determine the “pick-up” and “after-feel” of the product.

  • Robustness: I prioritize gelling agents that can withstand high electrolyte (salt) loads from actives.

  • My Go-To Polymers: I often record the use of Xanthan Gum or Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC). Note that HEC requires a thermal trigger to hydrate, which I account for in my processing notes if cold-sensitive actives are involved.

Phase B: The Targeted Lipid Phase

Even in a water-heavy system, a small lipid phase is often necessary to carry oil-soluble vitamins (like Vitamin E/Tocopherol).

  • Solubilization vs. Emulsification: In my lab, when the oil phase is under 2%, I often experiment with solubilizers (surfactant-based materials) rather than traditional waxes. This allows the final system to remain translucent and liquid.

  • Cold Emulsifiers: For serums, I frequently document the use of liquid, room-temperature emulsifiers to maintain a “Cold Process” workflow.

Phase C: The Active Integration

In serum theory, the line between Phase A and Phase C is often blurred. Since many serums are cold-processed, I can incorporate the actives directly into the water phase from the start.

Hyaluronic Acid: The Dual-Purpose Ingredient

I’ve found that Sodium Hyaluronate is a fascinating case study in serum design. It acts simultaneously as a high-performance active and a gelling agent. In my records, I’ve noted that a high-molecular-weight Hyaluronic Acid can create a complete serum structure on its own, requiring nothing more than water and a preservative.

Concluding Thoughts on Serum Strategy

Designing a serum is an exercise in precision. Because the formula is so “exposed” (lacking the heavy waxes of a cream), every ingredient must be perfectly balanced to avoid tackiness or instability. I find these systems to be the ultimate test of an active ingredient’s compatibility with a base.

What’s next in the lab?

I am currently reviewing my notes on Niacinamide stability within these aqueous systems. If you have specific observations on pH-sensitive actives in serums, I’d love to compare data!

Formulating lotion: Phase C & ACTIVE INGREDIENTS- THEORY pt.6

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
These are personal experiments for educational use only— not instructions and not for commercial or consumer use. By proceeding, you assume all risks related to safety, testing, and regulatory compliance.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

My Lab Notes: Phase C—The “Cool Down” & Active Ingredients

Hello Hello! 😀

If Phase A and B are the “body” of my cream, then Phase C is the personality! This is the “Cool Down” phase where I add all the fun stuff, but it’s also the part that makes me the most nervous. Why? Because most of these ingredients are total divas—they hate heat!

The “Waiting Game” Protocol

Sips water. Patience is everything here. I’ve learned that I absolutely have to wait until my emulsion drops below 40°C. If I get impatient and add things too early, I’m basically just cooking my expensive actives!

  • My Checklist: I usually keep my total “active load” under 10% to make sure the emulsion stays stable and doesn’t get “cranky.”

1. The “Antioxidant Cocktail” Theory

I’ve been reading that it’s better to use a team of antioxidants rather than just one.

  • My Observation: Mixing Vitamin E (Tocopherol) with something like Resveratrol seems to create a much stronger defense. It’s like they protect each other while they protect the oils in my cream!

2. Acids & The pH Balance

I use things like Lactic or Citric acid to either exfoliate or just fix the pH.

  • Safety Note: My notes are very strict about this—if I use chemical exfoliants like Salicylic acid, those batches are for NIGHT USE ONLY. I don’t want to mess with photosensitivity!

3. Niacinamide: The “Flushing” Constraint

Niacinamide is a hero in my oily-skin research (I usually use 1–4%), but it has a very specific rule: pH 5.0 to 5.5. * The Risk: I’ve documented that if the pH goes too high or too low, it can turn into Nicotinic Acid. If that happens… PHEW! It can cause the skin to flush and turn red. Not what I’m going for! 😀

4. Soothing & The “Grit” Problem

I love adding Panthenol (B5) and Allantoin for that soothing feeling.

  • Lab Lesson: Allantoin is a tricky one! It only dissolves at 0.4%. I’ve had batches where I used too much and ended up with “grit” in the cream. It felt like a scrub instead of a lotion! Now I’m much more careful with my measurements.

5. Eye Area Experiments (The Caffeine Boost)

For my eye creams, I’ve been experimenting with Caffeine and Escin. They are fascinating because of their “vasoprotective” properties—basically trying to help with puffiness and drainage.

**The “Reality Check” on Sourcing 😉 **

This is where my inner detective comes out. Marketing can be so deceptive!

  • The Q10 Case Study: Pure Coenzyme Q10 is a bright, intense yellow. Even at 0.1%, it turns the cream yellow.

  • My Thought: When I see a “Pure White” Q10 cream in a store, I just smile and shake my head. I know the concentration must be almost zero!

  • Check the SDS: I’ve learned to always check the Safety Data Sheet. “Liquid Q10” is often mostly filler with just a tiny bit of the real stuff. I want to know exactly what I’m putting in my beakers!

It really is a science, and every time I cool down a batch, I feel like I’m learning a new secret. It’s all in my hands! 😉

HAVE A GREAT DAY! 😄

How to: Hyaluronic Acid gel

LAB NOTES & SAFETY NOTICE
For educational purposes only. Content reflects personal, non-professional formulation experiments and is not instructional.
No formula or information on this site is intended for commercial use, consumer application, or third-party use.
Accessing this content means you accept all risks and full responsibility for safety, testing, legal compliance, and outcomes.
[Full Legal Disclaimer & Safety Requirements]

Hyaluronic Acid Gel

My Experience: Preparing Hyaluronic Acid Gel (1% Solution)

Hello Hello! 😀 One of the things I use most in my experiments is Hyaluronic Acid Gel. I’m obsessed with its ability to keep the skin hydrated—after all, it’s a substance naturally found in our own skin!

While I don’t believe in “miracle” anti-aging claims (commercials, right? 😉 ), I do notice that keeping the skin hydrated makes it look so much more plump and fresh. Here is how I’ve been preparing my 1% “stock” solution lately.

The “Experimental” Formula

In my lab, I usually aim for a clean 1% concentration. For a 100g batch, I use:

  • 1g Sodium Hyaluronate

  • 98.4g Distilled Water (Or sometimes Rose Water for that luxurious scent!)

  • 0.6g Cosgard (or whatever preservative my experiment requires)

How I do it (The 2026 Safe Method! :D)

Over the years, I’ve refined how I handle this. Sodium Hyaluronate is precious (and not exactly cheap!), so I want to avoid wasting a single grain.

  1. Safety First: In my experiments, I always add the preservative to the water FIRST. I’ve learned that protecting the water from the very start is much safer than waiting until the end.

  2. The “No-Stir” Layer: I gently sprinkle the powder on top of the preserved water. PHEW! I make sure NOT to stir yet. If I stir now, the powder sticks to my spoon in a stubborn clump and it’s all lost!

  3. The Wait: I cover the beaker and let it rest for a few hours (or overnight). The powder hydrates all by itself.

  4. The Finish: Once it’s fully hydrated into a beautiful gel, I give it a final, slow stir to make it perfectly smooth.

This is exactly why I started making my own cosmetics: I wanted to stop believing the commercials and see the real INCI for myself. It makes me feel like IT’S ALL IN MY HANDS! 😉Hyaluronic Acid Gel 3 Hyaluronic Acid Gel 2