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Hello Everyone!
Today I am sharing the formula of a super hydrating serum! It is simple to make, it contains ingredients that are rather easy to find and I found it highly performing!
Where I live we have had over 40Ā°C and so I decided to formulate something that would behave well if stored in the fridge (just to be sure: the preservativing system still needs to be added. Storing anything in the fridge doesn’t preclude the use of a preserving system in cosmetics. Repeat with me: THERE IS NO ESCAPE FROM PRESERVATIVES! š good, now you can continue reading). One of the cosmetics I always store in the fridge is the basic Hyaluronic Acid Gel (you can find the recipe HERE), so I have simply “upgraded” the formula (I have already posted two recipes for two upgraded versions of the Hyaluronic Acid Gel, you can find them Here and Here).
In this formula I have included two salts which nowadays I find hard to add to most of my lotions, and that’s because I have fallen in love with Ā my new polymeric emulsifiers (they don’t like salts, no, they are some picky bast*&*$… but lovely nonetheless š ).
Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate areĀ both naturally found in our skin as they are components of theĀ NMF. They are very powerful humectants andĀ they areĀ rather cheap and easy to find! š
This formula is extremely simple, but there is one ingredient which I have already talked about (HERE) and needs a little caution: Niacinamide (or Vitamin B3).
I love this ingredient, specially in summer, but it needs a neutral pH (you can go as low as pH 6), so it is really essential to have a pH meter or at least some “as reliable as possible” pH strips.
Now to the FORMULA:
Water to 100%
Sodium Hyaluronate (high molecular weight) 1%Ā
Sodium Hyaluronate (low molecular weight) 0.5%Ā
Sodium Lactate 2%Ā
Sodium PCA 1%Ā
Niacinamide 2.5%Ā
D-Panthenol 0.5%Ā
Phenonip 0.5%Ā
Fragrance oil (cosmetic grade) 02%Ā
HOW TO:Ā
1) I calculated the amount of water needed. Measured the water in a beaker. Separately measured the Sodium Hyaluronate with high molecular weight and pour it on top of the water.
When I am patient I follow the instructions HERE.
But I am rarely patient, so I actually mixed it with a stick blender – doing this, makes it look not transparent at first, but after a few days it does become transparent.
2) Then I measured the low molecular weight Sodium Hyaluronate and do the same thing as above.
3) Added Sodium Lactate and Sodium PCA. Mixed.
4) I measured the pH.
5) Adjusted the pH – mine was a little higher (around 7.5) so I lowered it to pH 6.5 adding a couple of drops of lactic acid (mine was at 20%).
6) I added the remaining ingredients and eventually checked the pH again and adjusted accordingly.
I have added one drop of pink food colorant cause I like to pamper myself with colors. Was it a necessity? Nope.
The Fragrance Oil used in this Serum was Rock Candy from Sensory Perfection (the L**h dupe for “Rock Star”) and I LOVE IT! š
I have used this serum in the last few weeks.
I was concerned that, because of the high concentration of my hygroscopic ingredients, it would feel sticky and unbearable (specially inĀ 40Ā°C!) but luckily it is not at all! I believe good part of this is thanks to the Niacinamide.
I apply only one drop and the skin feels extremely smooth, the first times I found it quite unbelievable.
I hope you enjoyed this formula! š
IT'S ALL IN MY HANDS 
Very nice DIY
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Thank you! š
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Hello. Thanks for interesting post. I made this HA last week and i would want to add few more active ingredients.
Can i add propanediol, sesaflash and silk peptide, vitamin B3 to this HA serum? I domt know if it would be appropriate.
And i use preservative PE 9010. They dont sale phenonip here š Have you used it before?
Thanks, Allie.
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And coenzym q10, too. ^
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Q10 is not soluble in water and this is an oil free formula without an emulsifier so you would need to make a lotion and not a cream, add some polar oils and an emulsifier as well.
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What is the INCI of PE 9010? I don’t know that commercial name.
It would have been better to add the ingredients in the formula in the beginning because if you add anything now, the formula won’t be in % anymore (you will have added a % of preservative enough for 100% of formula but if you add 5 grams of something else now, you will have 105 grams of product and the preservative for 100 grams).
However! You could add something to that serum, but why would you add propanediol?
Vitamin B 3 is the one I have added here as well, you can add it but absolutely check the pH before and after you do (if the pH is not right, this ingredient becomes nasty for the skin).
Silk peptide, I guess that is hydrolozed, so it should be fine š I have doubts about propanediol: I haven’t tried it now but I don’t know what effect it would have and I am not sure about its solubility?
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I have lactic acid at 100%. Is it safe to add in order to adjust ph to 6-6.5?
Thanks
De
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Hello,
Yes you can add lactic acid, just be sure to add ONE or two drops at a time, stir very well and measure the pH until you reach the desired pH. š
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Thank you for your quick response. I am very excited to try it on.
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Let me know if you like it š
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Can I use lactic acid instead of sodium lactate?
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They are not the same thing, but you can MAKE sodium lactate by mixing lactic acid with sodium hydroxide.
Pay attention though cause you would be mixing an acid with a strong base (melt it in water first, don’t add it to the acid in powder form) and it will be a very strong reaction.
Use all precautions (open air or room with a big window, goggles, thick gloves, etc)!!!
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Hi, can these serum be add to base cream.
Thanks
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If you do it in a very small quantity and just before use. Otherwise they bring instability.
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Hi, first thank you so much for this DIY. Can you please tell the pH range for niacinamide to be non-irritant to the skin. If I replace sum % of water with aloe-vera juice will there be a problem with pH?
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The pH should be around 7!
Aloe vera juice isn’t ideal cause it needs low pH to be better preserved. š
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Hi can we skip fregrant oil
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Of course
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Very interesting diy
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Love your formulas. Everything have worked for me perfectly
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Would love to add B5 to use this serum after micro needling. How much do I have to add and what the Ph needs to be at the end?
Thanks for your help.
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Actually the niacinamide in this serum is already the vitamin B5.
I wouldn’t suggest using it right after microneedling as it can cause a bit of irritation, so given that microneedling does already irritate the skin a little I would go for a very basic hyaluronic acid instead. You could use this maybe the day after microneedling if your skin doesn’t burn š
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