Simulgel EG test

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My Experiments with Polymeric Emulsifiers – Simulgel EG

In this experimental session, I documented the performance and stability of Simulgel EG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80). This is a multi-functional liquid polymer that acts as both a thickener and a cold-process emulsifier. My research focused on its ability to stabilize varying lipid loads and its response to electrolyte stress.

Technical Specifications & Capabilities

• Dual Functionality: It can be used as a stabilizer/thickener (0.5%–2%) post-emulsification or as a sole emulsifier (1%–5%).

   

• Cold Process Efficiency: It is designed for room-temperature processing, though it remains stable up to 75°C.
• Lipid Capacity: Theoretically capable of stabilizing up to 40% oils, including silicones, esters, and natural vegetable oils.
• pH Stability: Optimal performance occurs between pH 5.5 and pH 11.

The Experimental Design: Lipid Load Variations

I conducted three controlled tests using a fixed concentration of 3% Simulgel EG while varying the lipid phase (sunflower oil):

Test Batch	Oil Concentration	Texture Observation	Skin Feel
A	5%	Gel-like / “Plastic” feel	Heavy / Non-fresh
B	10%	Stable cream-gel	Greasy
C	20%	Viscous emulsion	High occlusivity

Researcher Observation: Despite the “fresh” aesthetic of the gel-creams, the sensory profile was surprisingly heavy. This is likely due to the Isohexadecane and Polysorbate 80 in the polymer blend, coupled with the lack of a balanced “Grease-Fall” (I utilized a single oil for these diagnostic tests).

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Processing: The “Phase Inversion” Method

Unlike traditional O/W emulsions where the oil is added to water, I utilized a specific cold-process protocol for these batches:

1. Phase B Dispersion: The Simulgel EG was added directly to the oil phase. Since the polymer is lipo-dispersible, this facilitates the swelling and “uncoiling” of the polymer chains once they contact water.
2. Aqueous Introduction: Phase A (Water) was poured into Phase B.
3. Homogenization: High-shear mixing (immersion mixer) was applied immediately to trigger the inversion and create a stable, glossy cream-gel.

Stress Testing: Electrolyte Sensitivity

Polymeric thickeners like Simulgel EG are notoriously sensitive to electrolytes (salts, proteins, acids). To quantify this, I introduced 1% Sodium Lactate to the 10% oil emulsion.

• Result: Immediate and total loss of viscosity. The polymer “lattice” collapsed, returning the emulsion to a liquid state.
• Formulation Solution: In my lab notes, I have recorded that to preserve viscosity in the presence of electrolytes, Simulgel EG must be paired with stabilizing gums (Xanthan or Guar).

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Researcher Summary

Simulgel EG is an incredibly efficient tool for rapid, cold-process formulation, especially for batches involving heat-sensitive actives. However, it requires a strategic approach to lipids to avoid a “greasy” finish and a secondary rheology modifier (gums) if electrolytes like Sodium Lactate or Niacinamide are present in the formula.