Sodium Polyacrilate Update

Hello Everyone! 🙂
Today one of you wrote me and asked my opinion about Sodium Polyacrilate.
Many thanks to him for making me realize that I had never written an update about this ingredient and a lot of time has passed since that happy post!
[Click HERE to read the old post]

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I am glad I tried to make that cream because it helped me understand this ingredient better: it is a good practice to try to push an ingredient and see how much it can do on its own and, specially with emulsifiers, it is a good idea to try to see how they behave in “simple as possible” formulations. So here is all the full story of how my relationship with sodium polyacrilate has developed: 🙂

The cream of this post actually separated after a couple of months.
It was a weird kind of separation because some oil would get to the surface but the cream would still look “beautiful” and, if mixed again, it would LOOK stable again – at least for a couple of weeks – but, obviously, it would separate eventually. I wrote “look stable”  because clearly it wasn’t.
The supplier from whom I had purchased this ingredient had suggested its use as lone emulsifier and stated that Sodium Polyactilate could support up to 25% oils. Well, now I know better: it is not stable with up to 25% oils (I have tried making a cream with 20% oils and it was even less stable than this formulation, no surprise there 🙂 ).
Most of the resellers now do not suggest to use this ingredient alone and it is sold mostly as a “support” of some other emulsifier. I also haven’t found anyone saying that it would support up to 25% Oil Phase anymore (probably 5% – 10% maximum is more likely).

There is one big mystery though about HOW ON EARTH this cream could possibly be so good looking and firm even with that 2% D-Panthenol (and let’s add that protein as well)!
Sodium Polyacrilate, in fact, has ever since COLLAPSED in most of my other attempts if I only dared to add the smallest amount of electrolytes! And by “collapsed” I mean that from a firm-silky cream it totally liquefied leaving me with a watery waste of ingredients! 😉
I guess this ingredient blessed me with the beginner’s luck 😀 (and then kicked me in the teeth soon after! 😀 Ahaaa!).

Now, a side note about the “feel” of the cream: the feel at the touch was definitely “silky” and “smooth” and it would absorb rather quickly but there was something I didn’t quite appreciate of it: the cream would feel quite “empty”, as opposed to “rich” and “moisturizing”.
I know these are all words that can mean totally different things to each one of us, but I know no better way to describe it!
Well I remember actually a commercial cream from a famous brand that was meant for teenage girls (therefore, a skin that doesn’t require a lot of moisturizing) and the commercial was all about “fresh” and “water”. This cream had that same feel so this might be an interesting ingredient for such kind of product.

For more recipes click HERE 
To learn how to formulate cosmetics click HERE
For a list of online cosmetic ingredients suppliers click HERE 

I am happy I finally wrote this update… it was definitely needed! 🙂

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